• Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm System 1
  • Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm System 2
  • Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm System 3
Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm

Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m.t.
Supply Capability:
4000 m.t./month

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Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm 

 

Specification:

Type :Square steel billet
Steel Grade:

3sp 5sp q195 q235 q255 q275 20mnsi ,astm a615 gr.60 

Size:50x50mm-180x180mm.
Length:3m-12m.
Processing:Hot rolled continous cast.
Application:

Wire rod , rod , deformed bars , profile steel , 

mechine parts ,  and steel mould ect .

Packing:Loose Packing.
MOQ:1000Tons
Delivery Time: 25days
Payment: T/T , L/C,West Union , Cash .
Trade term:FOB, CFR, CIF ,EXW.
Trans term:FIO ,FILO ,FLT.

Datas

  • Steel billet 
    Steel Grade   C(%)   Mn(%)  Si(%)   P(%)    S(%)
    Q2350.14-0.240.3-0.65≤0.45≤0.045 ≤0.045  
    Q275≤0.22≤1.50 ≤0.35 ≤0.045  ≤0.045  
    20MnSi0.17-0.251.20-1.600.40-0.80≤0.050 ≤0.050 
    3SP0.18-0.220.60-0.850.05-0.30≤ 0.040≤0.050
    5SP0.28-0.370.80-1.000.15-0.30≤ 0.040 ≤0.050 
  • Above list some chemical components were other customers requested ,                pls let us know  what steel grade you required.

  • we can produce according to your needed.

Main structure

  • Grade: 3sp, 5sp , Q235,Q195,Q275 etc

  • Chemical Composition: C, Mn , Si ,S , P

  • Shape: Square

  • Length: 2m-12m

  • Standard: GB

  • Technique: Cast

  • Dimensions: 100mm*100mm

  • Alloy Or Not: Is Alloy

  • Secondary Or Not: Non-secondary

  • steel billet: 3sp

  • steel ingot: 5sp

  • square steel: Q235

  • square steel billet: Q195

  • mild steel billet: 3sp

  • china mild steel billet: 5sp

  • steel blank: mild steel

  • steel rod: mild steel

Picture:

Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm

Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm

Construction Steel Reinforcing Bars 5.5mm to 32mm

Q:I have a Hunter 5 minute fan. I have four wires coming from my ceiling. Red, Black, White, and Bare Copper. The Fan has a Green Wire, Black Wire, White WIre,and a Black/White striped Wire. The Ceiling Plate also has green wire. I know to connect the black to black, red to black/white striped, white to white. But for the green and copper wires, do I connect the copper wire from the ceiling to the green wire in the ceiling plate and also to the green wire from the fan?
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/avzAc After reading your additional details, It is my understanding that you only have the green wire on the mounting plate. You have no other ground wire from your house wiring, as well as none from your remote box wiring. You only have hot and neutrals. Don't worry about that wire. cap it off and tuck it away. Your house is too old to have a ground. It is a safety wire in case of a short / over current. It wont affect the fan working. If you had a bare wire coming out of the box in your house you would connect it there.
Q:wire diagram and manual
a small boats wiring cant be very complicated. If you're needing to replace it get a book called Small Boat Wiring or a similar. If you're trying to find a fault with existing wiring simply trace the existing wires remake all the connections as you go. I suggest you pull the lot out redo it properly. Except for the electric start you dont need super heavy cabling for a small boat. Tinned multi strand wire with a core diameter of about 2 mm is fine. Get a roll of red one of black ( or use red/black figure 8 cable) From the battery fit a service fuse of about 15 - 20 amp in line with the positive cable right near the battery. Use only properly crimped screwed or soldered connections. If the connection is ever likely to get wet then cover the connection with a piece of heatshrink tubing with a good smear of neutral cure silicone inside it. The silicone should squeeze out both ends of the tube when you shrink it. Dont make any joints mid run ( never in the bilges). Make sure the wiring is secured where it is out of the way is neat. Support the wire near the connections. Run from the switch panel to each item as a separate circuit, dont daisy chain. Give each item its own cable including the return (black wire) brought back to the panel. Be neat make a permanent record of what you've done. Fuse each circuit with a fuse rated about 50% above what that item should draw. Always carry plenty of spare fuses.
Q:like in movies how do you connect like some wire to start the car? also which wires? I'm curious not trying to take anyone's car.
Connect wire 'A' to wire 'B'...Briefly touch wire 'C' to wire 'D' (until engine starts) see figure 1. Disclaimer: These instructions are not to be used for illegal purposes...
Q:i recently replaced my spark plug wires on my 97' lincoln continental. i was wondering if i should get plug wire shielding for them also......thanx
A Dodge Continental?
Q:Okay, I just started tearing into my partially finished basement of the home I bought last week. Some of the electrical wiring is interesting to say the least.I have a junction box in the basement. One wire connects directly to the panel, another out to an outlet, and the third goes up and out to half the house. All of this is 14/2 except the quot;thirdthat runs up and out. This is wired with 14/3 but the third wire isn't connected to anything. Should I be concerned considering every outlet in the house works?
I'm going to contradict some other answers here... Your handyman is wrong about being able to easily add a grounded receptacle (another reason why 'handymen' should not be touching electrical work). Please hire a licensed electrician for electrical work. The metal jacket on old BX cable is NOT approved as a grounding means. This is known in the National Electrical Code as Type AC (armored cable) wire. The old BX version of this does not meet the specifications called for by current codes. Therefore its metal jacket cannot be used as a grounding means. Since you do not have a grounding means at the receptacle, the only Code-approved replacements are either a non-grounding receptacle (2-prongs), or a GFI receptacle that is marked as No Equipment Ground on the cover plate. Unfortunately, neither is likely to solve your particular problem. The surge protectors usually have to be grounded to perform their job and even installing the GFI will not give you one. I'm afraid that your only good answer is to have a licensed electrician run a new wire and install a new receptacle for you. UPDATE: Sorry Fred, I will not put my code book away. I make part of my living fixing the work of handymen who thought they knew what they were doing. This is the second time, recently, that I have seen you giving out bad electrical advice that you are obviously not qualified to give. Please stop before someone gets hurt from your advice. I wish I could give your update another thumbs down.
Q:I recently bought a set of DT Moto emergency lights for my pickup and after installing them i found when i went to wire them to my battery the wire was too short. I didn't install the grille lights just the visor. Could i cut wires from the grille set and wire them to extend the visor light wire?
I'm looking online to find out what DT Moto lights are. Ok, I see what they are. I didn't know the brand name. LED lights in general are not high current, so they probably use lamp cord. I want to explain something to you about polarity. Electronic circuits are sensitive to the polarity of the DC electricity. The positive (+) and the negative (-) connections must be observed. So many people have absolutely no clue about this. There are just two wires. But if you extend them, you have a 50-50 chance of wiring correctly or incorrectly. There is only one allowable way. If wrong, it WON'T work, and probably will blow up the circuitry. So connection to battery or cigarette lighter plug is extremely important not to reverse the polarity. If just the LED lights got reversed, they wouldn't light, but they wouldn't be injured. Just reverse the wiring. But to the 12 volt source, polarity can't be wrong. Not for an instant. If you look closely at the insulation, you will see that one wire has smooth insulation, and one wire either has milti-ribbed insulation, or a single rib down the side. If you extend wiring, make sure to connect smooth to smooth and ribbed to ribbed. Wires should be soldered with electronic solder and the joints covered with heat shrink tubing. No crimped barrel connectors, or twisted bare wires with tape, or house wiring wire nuts. These methods all beg for failure. I don't know about robbing wire from one place and connecting to another. Is the one wire actually too long? You'll never need it? I guess you could take it. But me personally, I'd go get some wire from a lamp store. Match the wire conductor gauge (size), not the insulation size. Most lamp cord is 18 gauge. Some is 16 gauge. You can get 14 gauge or even 12 gauge. Thicker is a smaller number. Places that install car audio systems often have/sell thicker lamp cord. Have I told you enough?
Q:i just got guitar hero 3 and i want to buy another guitar contoller for the xbox 360 but my mom only wants to buy the wired one because it is cheaper is there anything wrong with the wired one and should i get it or not since i will be playing it with my brother. also how long will the wire be.
OK don't laff. i have gh3 and a wired and a wireless guitar. the cord is about 6 feet long and it is ok. there is nothing worse than being about half way through a song and your 360 says please reconnect controller. go for the wired and rock on!
Q:I am trying to install an outside motion activated light fixture, there is a box with a yellow wire that did not have power... I found a white wire with power and joined it to the yellow wire...and after installing the fixture (white wire to white wire, black wire to black wire) my fixture is not turning on... uld it be because of the two kind of wires??
This does not sound like a conventional setup that meets code. There are two ways to connect switched power to a box. The first is to do the switching before the box, in which case you should see one black, one white, and one bare copper wire (ground) coming out of the box. You would hook your fixture as follows: black to black, white to white, and green and bare to the box. The second configuration has the wires from the switch joining the power wires (black, white, ground) in the box. In this case, the black wire should always be hot, no matter what position the light switch is in. The wires from the switch should be the same as from the circuit: black, white and bare copper (ground). What you describe sounds very suspicious, unsafe, and not to code. Unless you are very familiar with safe electrical practices and residential wiring, I suggest you call in an electrician to troubleshoot the problem and correct it.
Q:when u first get braces do they put the bands and the wire or just the bands cuz im getting them monday
They Should Put The Brackets And The Wire Give You A Color. You Get Rubber Bands Way Later, If You Need To Fix Your Bite. That's How It Went For Me Anyway. Hope I Could Help. :)
Q:I hooked up my Klipsch floor speakers with the old-cheapy wire and then bought, I think it was monster cable, and bi wired it. Big sound improvement. But I've heard pros and cons on monster cable. I have three zones to wire in my house. If I bi wire the other two zones what's the best wire to get? You can spend a small fortune on wire. If I bi wire, zone 2 would be 30 feet x 4 and zone 3 50 feet x 4. I read that if one of the wires is silver it's better as silver's the best conductor. This I knew already. But, when I bought the wire that I did, it didn't state anywhere on the label that it contained silver and I think that would be a drawing point. In fact, I didn't see any wire at that store that said it was part silver and it wasn't Walmart but a major electronics store. I did see some that had silver colored strains but so is steel and aluminum. I also read on another forum that CAT 5 wire works well for bi wiring? Thoughts? Opinion?
I personally would not use CAT 5 cables...these are designed for data transmission....not audio transmission. High Frequency audio signals travel around the outer edge of your cables and low frequencies tend to travel through the center. So you truly need multiple conductor cables...and the thicker the better.

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