• Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W System 1
  • Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W System 2
  • Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W System 3
  • Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W System 4
Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W

Assembled prefabricated branch cable FZ-W

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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I. Characteristics of the cables
1. Using factory prefabrication methods can substantially reduce the site construction labor intensity and shorten the construction laying time;
2. Use of cables can guarantee great length and bending property, and greatly facilitates the construction in a complex place;
3. Use of cables reduces the laying space, and cables can be installed together with gas and hydraulic gas pipelines;
4. Their reliability and reliability can be fully guaranteed, for the cables are manufactured in the factory,
5. Sub-branch parts should use high strength sealed joints, which are waterproof and have properties of moisture protection, long-term maintenance and free for repair;
6. Because the cables are directly connected with households with no need of maintenance and repair and with easy and simple construction, the cables can produce significant comprehensive economic benefits.

 

II. Usage of the cables:
1. To be used for high-rise building;
2. To be used for disaster prevention equipments;
3. To be used for tunnel lighting and disaster prevention equipments;
4. To replace copper bus bar with small or medium capacity in various places.

 

III. Standards of the cables
IEC 60502 Rated Voltage 1 ~ 30KV extruded insulated power cables and accessories (International Electrotechnical Commission standards)
GB 12706 Rated voltage 35KV and below Copper core, Aluminum core plastic insulated power cable (National Standard of the People's Republic of China)
JCS 376 branch cable (Japanese Electric Wire Industry Standard)
General Rules for JIS C2810 indoor wiring electrical connection pipes (Japanese Industrial Standard)

 

Types of the cables:
Standard main cables and branch cables are all low-voltage power cables with XLPE or PVC insulation materials (IEC, GB, JIS, BS ... ...), and PVC materials covered on the outer side. Generally, the main cable is single-core or twisted multi-core cable (cables with two to five cores), the branch cables are single-core cables, and may adopt a fire-resistant, flame retardant cables in accordance with the requirements.

 

Their structures and types are as follows:

No.

Cable Description

Type

single core

three cores twisted type

four cores twisted type

five cores twisted type

1

PVC insulated PVC sheathed branch cables

FZ-W

FZ-W-3

FZ-W-4

FZ-W-5

2

PVC insulated PVC sheathed flame-retardant branch cable

FZ-ZRVV

FZ-ZRVV-3

FZ-ZRVV-4

FZ-ZRVV-5

3

PVC insulated PVC sheathed fire-resistant branch cable

FZ-NHVV

FZ-NHVV-3

FZ-NHVV-4

FZ-NHVV-5

4

Cross-linked polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed branch cables

FZ-YJV

FZ-YJV-3

FZ-YJV-4

FZ-YJV-5

5

Cross-linked polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed flame-retardant branch cables

FZ-ZRYJV

FZ-ZRYJV-3

FZ-ZRYJV-4

FZ-ZRYJV-5

6

Cross-linked polyethylene insulated PVC sheathed fire-resistant branch cable

FZ-NHYJV

FZ-NHYJV-3

FZ-NHYJV-4

FZ-NHYJV-5

 

 

 

Q: My 4 gauge power cable is hooked up to the battery's positive terminal and the other end to my amplifier's terminal. Is it safe to accidentally touch the ring terminal (end) of this power cable? I won't feel any electrical shock or anything will I?
Well it's DC powerdirect currentso it cant hurt a person,however if it grounds out on something in or on the car it can injure you with the sparks or heat produced by welding its self to whatever the object is that grounded it.
Q: I have a monitor which has a input rating of 100-240V and a 1.5A current. But I have a cable which gives out 250V and a 10A current.... The cable plugs into my monitor with no problem and it turns on just fine. But is it fine?
Yes its fine. Your monitor draws maximum of 1.5A current. And you say your cable can bear 10A current.
Q: I plugged my 110 volt JBL On Stage ipod speakers into a 220 volt socket. The fuse has blown, although I think it has only blown in the power cable and that the Ipod speakers are still fine. I was wondering where I could find a replacement power cable. Thanks for your help
A 110 ac plug configuration is usually not the same as a 220 ac plug configuration. they look completely different and will not pug into each other...so, I'm not sure how you managed to do that. Now, I am talking about the United States (not sure where you live). Anyway, I'm sure you can find a new power cable online. Or have Best buy order one for you if they don't have it in stock.
Q: I just bought a Sandisk MP3 player e200 series. It come with a USB connector which according to the product manual, its also used for power charging.Unfortunatly, it doesn't work with my laptop. I've tried to used the USB cable to charge but no power transmit to the mp3 at all. I guess my USP port in my laptop has too low capacity.I would like to buy a separate power cable for my MP3 but I am not sure if it is available. I can not find information in the Sandisk website either.Anyone knows that is there a seperate cable power for this model and where can I buy it?
Sansa released a base station not to long ago that I love. The advantage to it is that it can not only charge the player, but it can also allow you to connect the player to a stereo system. It even has a remote control with it for the player. I got mine on OKorder just search sansa base station. This option is great for just charging and player it in the house. The advantage to the wall charger is that it is more portable. If you are looking for something to travel with that will probably be what you will want.
Q: The other day I found an imac g5 17computer in my alley. It probably doesn't work but I was just curious about what cables/accessories I need for it. All that was out there was the actual monitor/desktop. There were no cables with it. (By the way if you can't tell I am not experienced with computers)Thanks any info is appreciated!
Power cable, USB keyboard, USB mouse. That's it. Find a power cable (any old computer power cable will work) and see if it even powers on and does anything first. Crack it open. Set it on its face, then undo the three screws across the bottom. They do NOT come out. They only loosen up until you can't turn them anymore. The back pops off. Look for any swollen or leaking capacitors. If you find any, then it's junk. If you don't, then see if there's any RAM in it. If not, toss some PC3200 DDR RAM in there and see if you get anything.
Q: Why did my power supply entrance burn with the power cord cable the stats of my computer are: HP Compaq dx2250 Microtower PCProgram: Windows 8 32bitPowerSupply: 500w MaxGraphics Card: Nvidia Geforce GTX 550 tiWhy cause it to burn? What should I do? Change the power supply or buy a better power cord cable. The cable that burn, I bought it on OKorder for $2, I am not sure if this cause the problem, but for sure I need to buy a power supply because the entrance burn. What should I do? Is my computer stable with all this stats? What cause this to happen? Was the cheap power cord fault? I don't know, please answerThank You,
A dodgy power cable can very easily singe or burn the power socket on the computer. In general, the lighter the cable, the more dodgy it is. $2 is nothing - I would buy a more expensive cable. The cents you save isn't worth it when your house is on fire. It's impossible to know whether your power supply or other computer components suffered any damage because of the electrical fire. You could try testing with a multimeter, but you should probably replace the power supply at a minimum.
Q: I used my laptop as a home computer, most of the time I keep my laptop turned on with the power cable plugged in. Is it good to do that? or is it better to plug the power off whenever the laptop's battery is full? Which one is good for my laptop' maintenance? By the way, everytime I asked this question, people give different answers. So I really need a professional opinion.
I'm not sure what's best for your actual laptop but I just had to order a new battery for my mobile phone and laptop the other day. The guy at the battery store told me it's better to charge it up, then let it run all the way down or as close as possible to empty before charging up again. He also said you should only charge them for as long as it takes to fully charge. Apparently batteries create a 'memory' from where you start charging them so that if you charge them as soon as they get to half full they'll 'remember' that eventually and as soon as they reach half full, they'll 'think' they're empty. Well that's what he told me. That's what's best for your battery, if I were you I'd just ring a computer store and ask an IT tech this question instead of asking idiots like us.
Q: My system was working fine until today. The bass stopped hitting to the music and thumps in intervals of about 5 seconds regardless of whether the music is turned up or down. I hooked up my system without my capacitor to see if this was the problem. It worked...but only for a minute. The bass was hitting like it was suppose to but all of a sudden it went back to the interval thumping and the power cable got hot to the touch and the fuse inside the holder was melted. What the heck is the problem?
Not the fuse. You're power wire is too small to handle the load. For 800-1100 watts RMS systems use 4 AWG wire. The main fuse should be the sum of the fuse ratings on the amp.
Q: JUST the cable modem and router, not the whole PC. This is for the internet/ phone service.
There's no way of saying without further information. You need to know the amount of power provided by the UPS battery as well as the power drain by the cable modem and router to calculate this accurately. Generally speaking, a standard household model of cable modem and router do not pull a lot of power. Just ballparking it, since the power drain from both is fairly low...A UPS 750 will probably support the two devices together for about 45 minutes to nearly an hour...assuming NOTHING else is plugged into the UPS and using power from it. Be aware, however, that your local ISP will also be on backup or generator power...during an extended outage from a hurricane or serious snowstorm...sooner or later, they will go down too. .
Q: i wasnt thinking and put the power cable in my mouth and then pressed the tip on my tongue and got electrocuted... it still hurts a little.. am i going to die
no your not going to die. you should be ok. lol this is hilarious.

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