• 3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire System 1
  • 3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire System 2
3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire

3 Core RVV Copper Domestic Electric Cable and Wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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Specifications

Flat electric wire cable 
2 core + earth wire 
Sheath:PVC 
Conductor: pure copper 
Low price

Information

 

Applicationelectric wire

The electrical wire flat cable is suitable for power installation fixed wiring or flexible connection for electrical appliances with rated voltage up to and including 450/750V respectively.

We can supply this electrical wire flat cable according to different recognized standards, such as BS, IEC, ASTM, DIN, AS/NZS, and customers' special specification also can be satisfied.

Technical data

ModelName
BVCopper Core PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable
BLVAluminum Core PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVRCopper Core PVC insulation flexible house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVVCopper Core PVC insulation PVC sheath round house wring electrical wire flat cable
BVVBCopper Core PVC insulation PVC sheath flat house wring electrical wire flat cable
BLVVBAluminum Core PVC insulation PVC sheath flat house wring electrical wire flat cable
BV-90Copper Core heat-resistance 105°C PVC insulation house wring electrical wire flat cable


Q: Is the WDZ-BYJF wire the same as the BV wire?
Macbook installed forced to shut down after the complete solution If the computer can not boot, please try the following steps one by one, until the problem so far
Q: I am in need of electrical wire at the moment, and i found some old headphones. Would the wire be salvageable to transport small amounts of energy (in a basic device, nothing fancy)?
Well, yeah, a wire is a wire, usually anyways. As was said above, it depends on what you want to use it for. If you want to use it to power some kind of AC appliance, I'd say it's not a good idea as the insulation on the wire may not be able to handle the much higher voltage involved. And usually headphones use something like #26 wire which can't really handle much more than a few hundred milliamps of current before getting too hot. So yes, it's just a copper wire like almost any wire. But it has it's limitations of voltage and current carrying capacity. If you want to use it to power your toatser, no. If you want to use it to power a small motor with some D-cell batteries, no problem. Use it!
Q: I come across electrical wire connectors often and they are varied.I find it difficult and sometime impossible to remove a wire from a connector without damaging the wire or the connector. Is there anyone who know how to handle these?
If you are talking about murettes that tie two wires together then when you remove the murette just untwist the wires and then place the murette back on the wire. If it does not go on then they are ridiculously cheap to get some new ones. Different sizes also. Turn the power off first or you will have a nice break in the day
Q: hi,i'm doing a preliminary search in buying a house in tucson, az, and have been looking at 1950s homes. none of the electrical is current/updated. does anyone know the year when codes were changed? i think it was in the 70s but i don't know exactly. this would help my first steps in searching, as i'm tired of looking at homes that have no ground or crazy wiring.
You might be going at it all wrong. Why not see what it would cost to upgrade the wiring in a house you like. The older homes were usually better built, more quaint and have mature trees and nicer neighbors. You can negotiate the asking price down, because of the wiring.
Q: I was painting my friend's warlock for him so I had taken everything off of it (bridge, knobs, etc.) except for the pickups. I didn't want to reinstall the pickups because I've never done that before. But as fate would have it, the pickup wires snapped during the whole painting process and now I have to solder them back in somehow. Does anybody know of any websites that explain how to install pickups? Unless, of course, it's so easy that you can explain it to me right here. Thanks a ton.
Well try peeling back a little bit of the plastic covering on the wire . this will make soldering easier. Next check where you are going to make your connection. It should be kinda clean (free from paint) Then heat up a soldering gun and get your solder. You might come out easier if someone else takes a pair of tweezers and holds the wire in place . basically heat the solder over the connection point untill a small amount drops in place. It should cool and seat wire where you want it. If not just heat the solder back up a little and remove wire and start process over again
Q: I have two power acoustic 12sthey are 1600 to 1800 wattsI have a 1 ohm stable 3000 watt monoblock amp pushing them.It really bogs my lights down.what's the benefits of using a extra battery vs a capacitor.I have a spare battery I could use and also a capacitorand whichever is more beneficial can you explain how to wire it. What kinds of performance gain will I get out of both as far as base wise.
The capacitor would be a better way to go. Another battery would make you have to upgrade your alternator also. So go with the capacitor. Run a 0 gauge wire from your battery to a distribution block 0 gauge in 2 4 gauges out one to the amp and one to the capacitor then ground the capacitor. It will store the unused power and help your battery out. Hope this helps.
Q: I want to put electrical tape on the spark plug wires in my car, to make them look better. My plan is to just put colored tape around each wire to beautify my engine bay. Anyone see any problems with this? Please and thanks!
no
Q: I was in a room upstairs a few years ago (the one I'm in now) when i was about nine. I was hooking up N-64 or something and the wires started shaking. It wasn't a gentle shake though, it was a very violent shake. It seemed like there must have been someone back there shaking them, but of course there wasn't. Since then, I've been afraid of this room, especially at night when I have to turn the lights and computer off before I go to bed. I constantly feel like there's someone watching me. Does anyone have a reason why those wires were shaking that day? Do you think it could have been some type of paranormal activity, or just an electrical problem?
Spirits can be attracted to, or trapped by electrical wiring; my partner helped a friend who was having problems with a ghost in his house, and the problem centred around a bunch of wires and junction boxes under a staircase. he had an electrician come in and sort out the electrical problem, and the ghost problem was solved as well. In William Monroe's books on astral projection, you are warned NOT to approach power towers or other high-voltage sources in your astral body, because one's astral body may be 'trapped by the electromagnetic field. It is theoretically possible that entities may also be 'trapped in such a field caused by faulty wiring, or else they might draw on it as a source of energy. It is certainly NOT impossible that you have a ghost' in your room; but if the only evidence you have had thus far of its presence is a few shaking wires, then it's probably nothing you need worry about.
Q: I built a 30x30 workshop and have a few electrical questions.What amp size service panel will I need?Will have 8 120v receptacles and do they all need separate 20 amp breakers with #12 wire?Will have 2 240v receptacles, air compressor and a stick welder, what size wire and circuit breakers for those two components?Will have 8 fluorescent lights with 54w bulbs, How many lights can be on the same 15amp circuit with #14 wire?
You'll want to use a 125amp breaker panel, with a main breaker (safety), How far from the house is the shop? Or is the primary structure on the property? I'd get at least a 20 space panel, you may need to add something in the future. What will you be doing about heat, if it's gonna be a wood shop you'll need some dust collection (Trust Me There!) For the air comp you'll want to run 10/3 MN to a 10-30R 250v 30a receptacle from a 2 pole 30amp breaker For the welder you'll want 8/3 MN to a 10-50R 250v 50a receptacle from a 2 pole 50 amp breaker The 120v outlets in a shop I would run only 2 on a #12/2 MN from a 1 pole 20amp breaker, if I remember correctly you're allowed up to five on a circuit but IT IS A SHOP you don't want to have your equipment starving for power. You'll have another 3 circuits with only two outlets set up exactly the same. I'm not sure how many lights are allowed to be on one circuit, but I would run 2 circuits with 14/2MN have four lights on each circuit, so you'll need two switches so what, they'd each be on their own 1 pole 15amp breaker
Q: Basically I've got 1 ceiling light in the hallway but I want two. How do I split the 3 wires from the Original light to get them to connect to the 2nd light. I have the relevant wire just no idea how to split
Without training and experience, with someone who actually knows how to do this stuff, you cannot safely and properly do what you're asking. There are literally dozens of different things you need to know, including what the existing wires are connected to, whether they were done properly, how to make sure the circuit is dead (assuming you don't want to find out the hard way), what size and type of wire you need, how to cut and strip the wires properly, how to install and fasten the new wiring in place, what kind of box and clamps you need, what size wire nuts, how much wire to leave sticking out, not to mention whether you need a permit and inspection for your work and whether your fire insurance will actually still cover you if something goes wrong

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