• PVC insulated PVC /  XLPE sheathed cable System 1
  • PVC insulated PVC /  XLPE sheathed cable System 2
PVC insulated PVC /  XLPE sheathed cable

PVC insulated PVC / XLPE sheathed cable

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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1.Basic information:

  U0/U: 450/1000V

  Max working temp: 70

  Conductor: Class 1/2 plain copper wires, solid or strand

  Insulation: Out ring: PVC, inner ring: PVC or XLPE

  Section area: 7.5-240mm2

  Package: Steel-wooden drum, length on the size or your demand

  Certification: ISO9001:2008, CE, RohS, CCC

  Samples: we can supply samples free of charge, but the buyer should pay the freight cost.

 

Products list of the factory

 

PVC insulated PVC/XLPE sheathed copper cables (Lower than 1000 Voltage)

No.

Size

Specification

Weight/m

21

3×2.5 mm2

3×1.78 mm2

0.193kg

22

3×4 mm2

3×2.25 mm2

0.27kg

23

3×4+1×2.5 mm2

3×2.25+1×1.78 mm2

0.3kg

24

3×4+2×2.5 mm2

3×2.25+2×1.78 mm2

0.325kg

25

3×6 mm2

3×2.76 mm2

0.34kg

26

3×6+1×4 mm2

3×2.76+1×2.25 mm2

0.391kg

27

3×6+2×4 mm2

3×2.76+2×2.25 mm2

0.47kg

28

3×10 mm2

3×7×1.35 mm2

0.51kg

29

3×10+1×6 mm2

3×7×1.35+1×2.76 mm2

0.574

30

3×10+2×6 mm2

3×7×1.35+2×2.76 mm2

0.681kg

31

3×16 mm2

3×7×1.70 mm2

0.717kg

32

3×16+1×10 mm2

3×7×1.70+1×7×1.35 mm2

0.856kg

33

3×16+2×10 mm2

3×7×1.70+2×7×1.35 mm2

1.04kg

34

3×25+1×16 mm2

3×7×2.14+1×7×1.70 mm2

1.224kg

35

3×25+2×16 mm2

3×7×2.14+2×7×1.70 mm2

1.436kg

36

3×35+1×16 mm2

3×7×2.52+1×7×1.70 mm2

1.478kg

37

3×35+2×16 mm2

3×7×2.52+2×7×1.70 mm2

1.757kg

38

3×50+1×25 mm2

3×10×2.52+1×7×2.14 mm2

2.081kg

39

3×50+2×25 mm2

3×10×2.52+2×7×2.14 mm2

2.415kg

40

3×70+1×35 mm2

3×14×2.52+1×7×2.52 mm2

2.796kg

41

3×70+2×35 mm2

3×14×2.52+2×7×2.52 mm2

3.357kg

42

3×95+1×50 mm2

3×19×2.52+1×10×2.52 mm2

3.81kg

43

3×95+2×50 mm2

3×19×2.52+2×10×2.52 mm2

4.535kg

44

3×120+1×70 mm2

3×24×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

4.782kg

45

3×120+2×70 mm2

3×24×2.52+2×14×2.52 mm2

5.716kg

46

3×150+1×70 mm2

3×30×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

5.743kg

47

3×150+2×70 mm2

3×30×2.52+2×14×2.52 mm2

6.791kg

48

3×185+1×95 mm2

3×37×2.52+1×19×2.52 mm2

7.157kg

49

3×185+2×95 mm2

3×37×2.52+2×19×2.52 mm2

8.489kg

50

3×240+1×120mm2

3×48×2.52+1×24×2.52mm2

9.158kg

51

3×240+2×120mm2

3×48×2.52+2×24×2.52mm2

10.813kg

52

4×2.5 mm2

4×1.78 mm2

0.236kg

53

4×4 mm2

4×2.25 mm2

0.327kg

54

4×4+1×2.5 mm2

4×2.25+1×1.78 mm2

0.366kg

55

4×6 mm2

4×2.76 mm2

0.421kg

56

4×6+1×4 mm2

4×2.76+1×2.25 mm2

0.474kg

57

4×10 mm2

4×7×1.35 mm2

0.64kg

58

4×10+1×6 mm2

4×7×1.35+1×2.76 mm2

0.735kg

59

4×16 mm2

4×7×1.70 mm2

0.909kg

60

4×16+1×10 mm2

4×7×1.70+1×7×1.35 mm2

1.052kg

61

4×25 mm2

4×7×2.14 mm2

1.302kg

62

4×25+1×16 mm2

4×7×2.14+1×7×1.70 mm2

1.565kg

63

4×35 mm2

4×7×2.52 mm2

1.738kg

64

4×35+1×16 mm2

4×7×2.52+1×7×1.70 mm2

1.966kg

65

4×50 mm2

4×10×2.52 mm2

2.421kg

66

4×50+1×25 mm2

4×10×2.52+1×7×2.14 mm2

2.768kg

67

4×70 mm2

4×14×2.52 mm2

3.298kg

68

4×70+1×35 mm2

4×14×2.52+1×7×2.52 mm2

3.751kg

69

4×95 mm2

4×19×2.52 mm2

4.394kg

70

4×95+1×50 mm2

4×19×2.52+1×10×2.52 mm2

5.016kg

71

4×120 mm2

4×24×2.52 mm2

5.452kg

72

4×120+1×70 mm2

4×24×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

6.277kg

73

4×150 mm2

4×30×2.52 mm2

6.772kg

74

4×150+1×70 mm2

4×30×2.52+1×14×2.52 mm2

7.535kg

75

4×185 mm2

4×37×2.52 mm2

8.139kg

76

4×185+1×95 mm2

4×37×2.52+1×19×2.52 mm2

9.36kg

77

4×240 mm2

4×37×2.52 mm2

10.611kg

78

4×240+1×120 mm2

4×48×2.52+1×24×2.52mm2

11.896kg

79

5×2.5 mm2

5×1.78 mm2

0.287kg

80

5×4 mm2

5×2.25 mm2

0.401kg

81

5×6 mm2

5×2.76 mm2

0.517kg

82

5×10 mm2

5×7×1.35 mm2

0.774kg

83

5×16 mm2

5×7×1.70 mm2

1.105kg

84

5×25 mm2

5×7×2.14 mm2

1.648kg

85

5×35 mm2

5×7×2.52 mm2

2.141kg

86

5×50 mm2

5×10×2.52 mm2

2.997kg

87

5×70 mm2

5×14×2.52 mm2

4.071kg

88

5×95 mm2

5×19×2.52 mm2

5.247kg

89

5×120 mm2

5×24×2.52 mm2

6.734kg

90

5×150 mm2

5×30×2.52 mm2

8.383kg

91

5×185 mm2

5×37×2.52 mm2

10.288kg

92

5×240 mm2

5×48×2.52 mm2

13.201kg


Q: I have a wire heating up and wanting to burn that is going to the alternator (stator) . It is a black wire with a diode on it I think. I went to the john deere dealer and they first gave me a stator because they said that might be problem. It wasnt because i put new stator on and still same result. I took stator back.they checked old one and said it was good.rigged up some diode to put on it. I tried that and still wire wanting to burn up. I think maybe they give wrong diode? I have it figured out it can be only 2 things as all other wires have no shorts and this wire running from the stator is black, connects to a 4 prong plastic connector where it changes to red and goes to the solenoid, Is this wire suppose to be a hot wire where it connects to the plastic connector? I have photos of exactly what I am talking about if someone can help me I can send them the photos. It is in great detail taken with digital camera.
You really need the electrical diagram or schematic wiring showing the wires running from the battery through the starting solenoid to the starter motor. The ignition switch controls the solenoid. When you turn the ignition switch to start, the engine cranks by making the solenoid connect the big red positive 12 Volt battery wire connection on one side of the solenoid to the big red battery wire on the other side of the solenoid going to the starter motor. So get the operation and maintenance manual for your mower and see what electrical components are shown. If you can disconnect at least one of the diode's wire connections and measure it's resistance with an ohmmeter (Digital Multi-Meter, DMM is a volt, ohmmeter, ammeter), it should not read less than hundreds of ohms no matter how you measure it.
Q: i mean i know its SUPER dangerous but if you are trying to make a circuit and insert a wire into a socket, and if you don't touch it, could it still work?? im not saying im going to do this in real life, but i have to make a picture of a rube goldberg machine and would it work, if you didnt touch the wire?
Inserting a wire into outlet is dangerous and may cause spark,it may come out. Better connect plug to the wire and insert in the proper way after switching off.
Q: What is the difference between YC and YZ cable?
Most of the current use of CPVC, PVC as the base material, into other polymer materials to improve the high toughness of the high-voltage power cable sheathing. Mainly used for cable laying to guide and protect the cable when the role.
Q: I am installing a new exhaust fan in my bathroom and along the joist I will be attaching it to, there is a black electrical wire that runs right along it. There is a bit of play in it, and I guess I can tack it upwards to move it out of the way, but was wondering what would be the best way to take care of this. I think the original installation had the fan either pinned up against the wire or had the wire sitting on top of the fan unit. The new fan unit is bigger, so I don't think it can sit on top of the box. Note: this wire is not the same wire that is providing electricity to the fan.
That's a situational judgment. If you put it above the fan, you have to be pretty certain that there's no chance that nails won't be coming down from the floor above. It's good to have the wires at least 1 and 1/2 inches away from ceilings and floors. You might want to give a gentle tug on the wire to see if you have enough play to anchor it safely mid-joist. It may look like crap, but you might want to add a piece of wire to lengthen it. You would want to put a junction box where each connection is made. It's not a good idea to bury junctions, so you want them accessible with cover plates.
Q: I have two electrical outlets in my bathroom, one feeds the other. They do not work.The lights work and the surrounding outlets work. I've checked every GFI outlet in my house but cannot find a source.
When all else fails, call a qualified professional electrician. Since the outlets do not work, you need to use the proper test tools to try to locate the problem. A receptacle tester, an inductive probe and an analog voltmeter and a solenoid type tester. Know how to use all of these items. Do not use a digital voltmeter, they are too sensitive and may give false readings of voltage present. After you are familiar with how to use all of the equipment, locate the nearest receptacle to the dead ones and secure that circuit ( turn it off), then open the receptacle and do a physical inspection of the connections. Then do the same in the bathroom boxes. Make any repairs needed. If the receptacles are the quick connect push in the back type, replace them. If all of these steps do not repair the circuit, call a qualified professional electrician to do the work.
Q: i need to get some electrical wire redone in 1 of the rooms and i wanted to know about how much would it be to get the job done?
depends on the distance from the breaker box, and the condition of the walls and ceilings on the route. If the breaker box is out of space or power, then it could cost a lot. But it also depends on country and location. Bottom line, just to run wires, install new outlets, patch walls and repaint, could be US$1000 or so. If the distances are long, or the building old, or access limited, it could double. If you have to upgrade breaker box and upgrade service drop, $10000 at a guess.
Q: I have 60 ft and 40 ft of the 1/0 electrical THHN STRANDED wire. I don;t know if be possible to join both, due to I need 95 ft. Does anybody give me an idea? Thanks.
Most okorder
Q: Hi everyone, just curious about some different things ive read on the internet, there is 3 switches, 2x2 way and 1xintermediate. in the 1st 2 way coming down from the light, the brown coming down is in l2 with the brown coming up that connects the intermediate switch. the black wire coming up goes into the common in the 2 way switch. in the intermediate it says the grey go in the l1 and l2 and the brown go in the other l1 l2 whilst the black ones are in the connector blocks. i thought it was the grey and black in the l1's and l2's and the browns in connector blocks. thanks for your time to the ones who help :).i have an exam on it tomorrow and thats 1 thing ive read on the internet that i dont think was right.
The circuit you describe is called a 4 way switch circuit. At the first switch in the circuit the power feed is terminated at the common terminal of the switch and the two travelers ( one red and one black ) of the interconnecting wire connect to the other two terminals. At the center switch of the circuit which is called a 4 way switch ( there can be any number of 4 way switches in a circuit but they must always be in the middle of the circuit ) the input travelers connect to the bright terminal screws and the output travelers connect to the dark terminal screws (typically top-top and bottom-bottom) then at the last switch in the circuit (again a 3 way switch) the travelers connect to the two terminals which are the same color and the output to the light connects to the common terminal. At each switch box the neutral (White) wire is wire nutted to the white wire of the next set of wires. And the bare copper ground wire is both bonded ( Compression bond ) to the ground wire of the next cable AND terminated to the green grounding screw in the box if it is a metal box AND terminated to the green grounding screw on the yoke of the switch.
Q: I have soundstorm laboratories 70W X 2 High power Amplifier. I have no clue to where i should put the electrical wire. It says +12v, REM, and GND.
Ok here we go. The 12v should run directly from the positive terminal from your car battery or a 12 VOLT source. The gnd is Ground and should be attached to a bolt any bolt near the amplifier that comes in contact with bare metal in the car that connects to the cars frame. The rem or remote wire should be connected to your car stereo. This is normally a blue wire that sends a signal charge to your amp every time your car turns on so that your amp turns on and off according to if your stereo is on. Hope this helps LIMBO
Q: For example if I put a screw in the wall and it goes through an electrical wire will that screw cause electrical leaks. Another example is everytyhing in house was unplugged and shut off and power meter was still running, what could be the cause?
1.If the inserted screw touches the phase conductor, a current can flow through the body to the earth if one touches the screw with bare hand. If there is a differential device (RCD), it may trip and protect the person. 2.If the above screw makes contact with both the neutral and phase conductors at the same time, the fusible will function or the circuit breaker will trip because of over current or short circuit. 3. Even if all the loads are unplugged, there could be power consumption and the energy meter will continue to run especially in very old installations, because of deteriorated insulation of conductor wires.

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