Low Voltage Power Cable 240 185 150 120 mm2 PVC XLPE Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
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Low Voltage Power Cable 240 185 150 120 mm2 PVC XLPE Cable
Brief Introduction
1.XLPE armored power cable is made complying with the national standed and have pass the CCC - China Compulsory Certification, which contains the recondition of national security certificateC - CEE,imports of safety and quality licensing system - CCIB, China Certification Electromagnetic Compatibility - EMC
2.Range of application : this product is fit A.C rated voltage 0.6/1KV
3 The temperature of the conductor in the working time is no more than 90 centigrade
4.The XLPE cable is mainly used for current transmission,laying in the building, tunnel or directly in the earth, it can afford the outside pressure
5. We can also customize the electrical wire and cable as your requestyou can decide the core count and cross seaction of the conductor, as well as the jacket and insulation
6.The specification YJV
The PVC insulated power cable and fire resistant cable are suitable for fixed laying in power transmission and distribution lines with A. C. 50Hz and voltage rating of up to or including 6KV.
Product Description:
1. Conductors: Copper or aluminum.
2. Both armored and non-armored type power cables are available.
3. Voltage rating: 0.6/1kV 3.6/6kV.
4. PVC or PE sheathed.
5. Number of cable cores: One core (Single core), two cores(Double cores), three cores,
Four cores (Four Equal-section-area cores or three equal-section-area cores and one smaller section area neutral core),
Five cores (Five equal-area cores or three equal-section-area cores and two smaller section area neutral cores).
6. Standards: Chinese national standard GB 12706 and GB 12666.6(equivalent to IEC 60502 and IEC 60331)
IEC, BS, DIN, ASTM, CSA, NFC, AS, GOST etc. Or other special characteristics as customers request.
Application conditions
1. The long-time permissible operation temperature of conductor shall not be higher than 70oC.
2. Conductor maximum short circuit (not more than 5 seconds) temperature shall not be higher than 160 oC.
3. The power cable is not limited by drop in level when being laid, and the ambient temperature shall not be lower than 0 oC.
If so, the cable should to be preheated.
4. Perfect chemical stability, resistant against acids, alkalis, grease and organic solvents, and flame.
5. Light weight, perfect bending properties, installed and maintained easily and conveniently.
Specification
Cu Core | AL Core | Description | Application |
VV | VLV | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated PVC Sheathed Power Cable | For laying indoors, in ducts and tunnels, but unable to bear pulling force and pressure |
VY | VLY | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated PE Sheathed Power Cable | |
VV22 | VLV22 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Steel Tape Armored PVC Sheathed Power Cable | For laying indoors, in tunnels and directly in ground, able to bear pulling force and pressure |
VV23 | VLV23 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Steel Tape Armored PE Sheathed Power Cable | |
VV32 | VLV32 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Fire Steel Wire Armored PVC Sheathed Power Cable | For laying indoors, in wells and underwater, able to bear certain pulling force |
VV33 | VLV33 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Fire Steel Wire Armored PE Sheathed Power Cable | |
VV42 | VLV42 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Thick Steel Wire Armored PVC Sheathed Power Cable | For laying in wells and underwater, able to bear certain axial pressure |
VV43 | VLV43 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Thick Steel Wire Armored PE Sheathed Power Cable | |
NH-VV | NH-VLV | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated PVC Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | For laying indoors, in ducts and tunnels, but unable to bear pulling force and pressure |
NH-VY | NH-VLY | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated PE Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | |
NH-VV22 | NH-VLV22 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Steel Tape Armored PVC Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | For laying indoors, in tunnels and directly in ground, able to bear pulling force and pressure |
NH-VV23 | NH-VLV23 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Steel Tape Armored PE Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | |
NH-VV32 | NH-VLV32 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Fire Steel Wire Armored PVC Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | For laying indoors, in wells and underwater, able to bear certain pulling force |
NH-VV33 | NH-VLV33 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Fire Steel Wire Armored PE Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | |
NH-VV42 | NH-VLV42 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Thick Steel Wire Armored PVC Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable | For laying in wells and underwater, able to bear certain axial pressure |
NH- VV43 | NH-VLV43 | Cu(Al)Core PVC Insulated Thick Steel Wire Armored PE Sheathed Fire Resistant Cable |
Datas Prameters
1 core
|
1*10; 1*16; 1*25; 1*35; 1*50; 1*70; 1*95; 1*120; 1*150; 1*185; 1*240; 1*300; 1*400
|
2 core
|
2*1.5; 2*2.5; 2*4; 2*6; 2*10; 2*16; 2*25; 2*35; 2*50; 2*70; 2*95; 2*120; 2*150; 2*185; 2*240; 2*300
|
3core
|
3*1.5; 3*2.5; 3*4; 3*6; 3*10; 3*16; 3*25; 3*35; 3*50; 3*70; 3*95; 3*120; 3*150; 3*185; 3*240; 3*300
|
4 core
|
4*4; 4*6; 4*10; 4*16; 4*25; 4*35; 4*50; 4*70; 4*95; 4*120; 4*150; 4*185; 4*240 |
5 core
|
5*1.5; 5*2.5; 5*4; 5*6; 5*10; 5*16; 5*25; 5*35; 5*50; 5*70; 5*95; 5*120; 5*150; 5*185; 5*240; |
3+1 core | 3*4+1*2.5; 3*6+1*4; 3*10+1*6; 3*16+1*10; 3*25+1*16; 3*35+1*16; 3*50+1*25; 3*70+1*35. |
4+1 core | 4*2.5+1*1.5; 4*4+1*2.5; 4*6+1*4; 3*10+1*6; 4*16+1*10; 4*25+1*16; 4*35+1*16; 4*50+1*25; 4*70+1*35; 4*95+1*50; 4*120+1*70; 4*150+1*70; 4*185+1*95; 4*240+1*120; 4*300+1*150. |
- Q: Install the socket wire is black and green to how to correspond. Rush!
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- Q: 4 square of single-core wire, the diameter is how much? Refers to the inside of the copper core diameter? Or even the skin together?
- Mainly to see whether the quality of raw materials meet the requirements, and some local lines, wire box must be witnessed sampling inspection, testing qualified to use. The site can also check the wall thickness and so on.
- Q: Hello, we have several plugs that have no ground wire. The electrical wire for most of those plus seem to be running through the ceiling (not accessible that I know of). There is a basement and it looks like the plugs that have been grounded are connected to a cold-water pipe. We would like to tap in a junction box in the basement, and run a new wire (that includes ground) to a non-grounded receptacle by drilling a hole through the floor. Then, run the wire externally on the wall, drill another hole right below the receptacle cover to insert the wire inside and make the connection.Is the external wire against code? Does it have to be hidden inside a wall?
- You may need the services of an electrician. Your ground is not up to code. You should have a ground rod that is driven into the ground as well as the cold water connection. Also instead of just taking the new line to a J-Box you should go all the way back to the distribution panel, also known as an entrance panel, to go to an unused fuse or circuit breaker. The wire can be run on the surface if you use a surface mold or conduit, with a surface box. However if you turn off the power to that plug you can attach the new wire to the old wire pull the old wire back to the cellar, which will pull the new wire to the cellar eliminating the need to run any wire on the surface. Make sure you loosen the clamp that is holding the wire in place in the box. If the old wire was stapled to the studs too tight you will not be able to pull the wire. In that case you could try to fish the new wire, or go back to the surface mold. That's why your best option may be to call a qualified electrician. You can never be too safe around electricity. Remember electricity can KILL, either outright or through a fire which it can cause if not installed correctly.
- Q: How to calculate the wattage wattage and power of the wire?
- Better wire will be marked on the wire parameters, so that know what to buy the line
- Q: If electrical wires were built underground then there would never be any outages from storms. I'm sure they thought of this and there's a reason why, I just wanna kno what's the reason?
- Lol. They are underground in every country in the world except for the US. And maybe some very remote villages somewhere in Africa
- Q: I have an antique home and I am trying to install a new ceilimg fan. The box only has a black and a white wire from the ceiling. I know where to connect the ceiling fan colored wires to - but to which do I put the ground to ?? Do I attach it to the black wire or the white wire??
- The Black wire is your HOT line bringing voltage to your fan, and the White wire is the NEUTRAL, or return line. Don't hook the green ground to either! As someone else said, a ceiling fan is in a position that the lack of a ground shouldn't really harm you, but if there is a reasonably easy way to get to a ground (like a water pipe), I'd run a green or bare wire to it from the fan. If you don't run a ground, be sure that you have an insulated switch that you pull to turn it on. Usually there is a metal link chain coming out of the switch. If you run no ground, be sure you use the string that likely also came with the fan and pull thatthus insuring you NEVER come into contact with anything metal where there could be (remote) a risk of shock.
- Q: I am putting all my lighting on a single circuit, and have a question. The main feed from the panel to the lights first goes to a double gang switch, one switch controls the lights on half of the main room in the basement, the other controls the lights in the other half of the main room in the basement. Then I need the main feed to continue to three other switches in three other rooms in the basement. Do I just wire nut the black wired and wire nut the white wires, and continue running to the next switch. So if that is the case, then am I correct in saying that in the double gang switch I will have one wire nut with the ground wires, one wire nut with 4 black wires, and one wire nut with 4 white wires? Please help with this matter, I want to do this correct, so my house doesn't burn down.By the way I am using 14/2 wire.
- All the ground (Bare) wires go together,( if it's a metal box that you must wrap one of the wires around a screw to bond the box.) All four white wires go under one wire nut The black wire that goes one set of lights goes to one switch. The black wire that goes to the other set of light goes to the other switch The last two black wires (power from the panel and power to the other box) go under a wire nut with two other pieces of wire (pig tails) that go to the other screw on each switch respectively.
- Q: Home decoration to use much of the wires, such as light lines, sockets, air conditioning lines, refrigerator lines
- If the set-top box is no problem, that is, the TV problem, video 2 jack problem, or your audio line is also a problem
- Q: I live in a rental townhome with three other houses connected. I believe they were built in the 50's if that matters. These are breakers with copper wiring and I noticed the other day just how crazy our electrical is run. First we only have four 15 amp breakers, one of them dedicated to our washer and entire kitchen including our fridge and microwave, and the window receptacle we would plug our window ac in to! The dryer has a dedicated 50 amp but the entire house runs off of those four 15 amp breakers. We recently bought a second fridge and i wanted to plug it in next to our washer but now that i know what is all running off that line i dont know what to do. I know this couldn't meet code in a home but is there some loophole rental units get away with doing this!? Would it be safe to plug my second fridge into that line?
- Because it was good enough at the time it was built, pretty much. Meanwhile, relatively few need a second 'fridge even now, so that was not anticipated back then. Where I live (single family home neighborhood), the second is more often an old one in the garage, for a man-cave beer cooler, and are silly-expensive to run. One good fridge beats two old ones, everytime.
- Q: I just bought a 30 year old house. My family is just starting to replace the roof, because the shingles and a lot of the plywood is damaged. My dad pointed out that the power enters the house through the roof, and said I should call the power company to have it routed through the side of the house. Is this necessary? Will it be costly? Thank you!
- If the wires are in a conduit (pipe), where they go through the roof, that is an acceptable practise. To have them relocated to go through the wall will be costly, as the whole entrance will have to be relocated. I don't know what the regulations are where you live, but here I would have to obtain a permit from the city then hire a electrical contractor to relocate the entrance. When that is completed I would have to get my power provider to relocate the connection, and they would charge for that also.
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Low Voltage Power Cable 240 185 150 120 mm2 PVC XLPE Cable
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 m
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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