1kV Copper Conductor XLPE Insulated Power Cable

1kV Copper Conductor XLPE Insulated Power Cable

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1000 m

Supply Capability:: 20000 m/month

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Standard

IEC 60502

Application

1kV copper conductor XLPE insulated power cable is used for fixed installations of rated voltages 1kV and below, such as distrubution networks or industrial installations. It can be installed in cable duct, trench or directly buried in earth.

Product Description

1) Rated Voltage: 600/1000V

2) Max. working temperature: 70 °c for pvc insulation and 90 °c for xlpe insulation

3) Max. temperature during short circuit (≤5S): 160°c (PVC insulation), 250°c (XLPE insulation)

4) Conductor: class 1 and 2 copper or aluminum

5) Shape of conductor: circular and sectional

6) Sectional area: 1.5 - 500mm2

7) Insulation: PVC / XLPE

8) No. of cores: 1, 2, 3, 3+1, 3+2, 4, 4+1, 5

9) Armor: steel wire or steel tape available

10) Sheath: PVC

11) Min. beding radius: 15 times cable radius (single core), 12 times cable radius (multi cores)

12) Max. conductor DC resistance at 20 °c

Sectional area (mm2)	1.5	2.5	4	6	10	16	25	35	50	70	95
Copper (Ω/km)	12.10	7.410	4.610	3.080	1.830	1.150	0.727	0.524	0.387	0.268	0.193
Aluminum (Ω/km )	-	12.1	7.41	4.61	3.08	1.91	1.20	0.868	0.641	0.443	0.320
Sectional area (mm2)	120	150	185	240	300	400	500	630	800	1000	1200
Copper (Ω/km)	0.153	0.124	0.0991	0.0754	0.0601	0.0470	0.0366	0.0283	0.0221	0.0176	0.0151
Aluminum (Ω/km )	0.253	0.206	0.164	0.125	0.100	0.0778	0.0605	0.0469	0.0367	0.0291	0.0247

Q: What is the meaning of SC15WCCC to SCE in electrical drawings?: Listen to your description of your speaker for the dual 12v power supply (- +12), and now the computer power supply can only achieve +12 v power supply, even if there is -12v power supply, power supply is relatively weak. So you can only choose to buy a cow (transformer) with dual 12v AC output can be used. This power supply in the audio amplifier is also quite a lot. Black line for the gnd point, the remaining two red casually then line, there are rectifier power amplifier inside. hope this helps.

Q: have a clifford alarm/remote starter and it completely doesn't work. if it is taken out, will it possibly mess up my electrical wires and cause my car to be messed up since the wires in a car are touchy? the alarm was already installed by the previous owner when i bought the car and i have the papers of how he wired it: It could mess things up. If you are not familiar with how they are installed, I would take it to someone who can remove it for you.

Q: Can I run a ground wire from and electrical motor to a bolt that is screwed into wood? Will this work? I have a hot tub and replaced the motor, the new motor has the thick copper ground wire mounted on the back so the wire I have is too short now to reach to where it was grounded before. I ran the wire from the motor to a bolt that is screwed into the wood frame of the hot tub. The old ground went from the motor to the metal brain box witch is also attached to wood so I figured my alternative fix is OK?: Well wood will not provide grounding. If anything attach another wire to the bolt and run it to a metal grounding source. Either way you're going to need more wire. Wood is nonconductive and will not provide a path to ground unless the bolt you're talking about is contacting metal on the other side of the wood or something.

Q: i have a main service panel that was probably installed in the 70s or 80s. there is a bus bar on the right side that all of the white neutral wires terminate into. (there is also a bus bar on the left side, that is totally empty.) there are no bare copper ground wires visible anywhere in the box. the circuits all run from under the crawl space into exterior junction boxes on the siding, then up through metal conduit into the panel. i know some of the circuits are older, but some were added just in the last couple of years, and were done with permits. so how and where might the circuits be grounded?: It is possible the the copper wires were all stripped from the NM coating and attached to a copper rod or water pipe under the house, but it certainly isn't code to do that. Code requires the copper, white and black to all be attached to the appropriate bus in the circuit box, and then a bare copper wire running from the box to a copper rod driven six feet into the ground. The reason for the grounds to be in the box is because plumbing methods have improved and a simple plumbing repair with modern plastic pipe between the earth and the wires can result in no ground and someone touching a faucet getting electrocuted. Just so your home insurance will pay off in the event of a fire or an accident, you might want to check with the code dept. in your area and then have it changed to the box if required.

Q: I am replacing an existing electrical short wire (about 3 inches - can't tell what it is) from my circuit panel to my central air breaker box. I am also extending it 15 feet. My air conditioner panel box is rated for 30 amps, but my air conditioner has a max value of 22.6 Amps imprinted on the side. I bought some 12-2 wire, but should I go with the 10 gage instead?: Use the coaching on the nameplate for the air conditioner. It says max fuse length is 20 amps. on the grounds that's 240 V, the air conditioner has a 2 line feed plus the impartial so be sure the two fuses are 20 amps. Now on the grounds which you're fusing it at 20 amps, be sure the twine feeding the air conditioner is 12 AWG. The 14 AWG is rated for 15 amps max. you may choose a 12/3 cable feeding your disconnect and air conditioner.

Q: I installed a deep water pump but have gotten wires crossed is there a way to check to see which is the hot and ground wire before hooking to power. I have a multi-tester but how to use it: The best way to do this without pulling the pump is to test the two motor leads individually with a multi-meter on its continuity or ohms setting.(horseshoe symbol) If you have a known earth ground source like a ground rod or water pipe etc. touch one lead of the tester to the ground source and the other to each wire individually. Whichever motor wire gives you the lowest ohm reading is most likely the ground wire.

Q: I have a back patio light that is obsolete now that I added a covered porch. Could I add an electrical box, attach additional wiring, run it through conduit and ultimately attach it to a ceiling fan in the overhead patio area? (from the point from where the wiring attaches to the original light): Yes it is , but do not hide the box. you must be able to see and open all boxs after the the job is done.

Q: I am running a new wire from the electrical panel to my flat panel tv. problem is there is a cold air return in the way. I am a bit worried running it across the bottom, in the basement, of the cold air return, seems like it would be a fire hazard. should I run it through conduit? if so what kind? flexible? metal? rubber? thanks.: I have a cold air return in my basement that is bordered by two floor joists (on the sides), the wooden subfloor on the top, and sheet metal on the bottom. Numerous romex electrical lines run through it (the wood floor joists have been drilled and the wires run through it). This is very common and safe. No conduit is required.

Q: Does anyone know of any places that offer emergency electrical wiring assistance in Florida for the low income? I own my home and live in Lakeland but this home was built in 1970, my electrical socket in the living room shoots sparks the circuit panel is old and a bit rusty and shot sparks last night my lights go out just about every other day for short periods of time I dont know what to do and cant seem to find help if anyone knows anything PLEASE let me know, im so scared im going to come home to a burned down house im so poor i cant even afford homeowners insurance so im in a bind!: While Mister Sparky may not be the cheapest they certainly provide excellent service and you don't want to cheap out on your electrical system, especially if it's sparking. They may offer financing. Try 888-877-2759

Q: As we know the earth wire takes no current or just a small amount of leakages current, why we should use same size as live or neutral wire in a power system??: Rule of thumb is that the earth wire should be half the csa of the phase conductor. This ensures that it can carry the maximum fault current that could occur at that point for sufficient time for the protective device to operate.

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