XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 m

Supply Capability:: 50000 m/month

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Single Core PVC Wire 0.6 /1KV as per AS/NZS 5000.1

1 Information

a, Number of cores:

1, 2, 3, 3+1, 3+2, 3+3, 4, 4+1, 4+2, 5 and so on.

b, Construction:

Conductor: Solid or stranded copper Insulation: Cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE) or Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Filler: Polypropylene filament with lapped binding tape Binder: Binding tape Inner sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Amour: Galvanized steel wire armored(SWA) or steel tape armored(STA) Sheath: Polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

c, Nominal Section Area(mm2) :1.5 2.5 4 6 10 16 25 35 50 70 95 120 150 185 240 300 400 500 630 800

d, Features

XLPE insulated power cable do not has excellent electric, mechanical properties,but also has powerful resistance against chemical corrosion,heat resistance and enviromental stress resistance. Its structure is simple. The long period operating temperature is +90 °C. It is conveninet to use and can be laid with no restriction of different level.

XLPE insulated steel wire armoured power cable: XLPE/PVC insulated power cable has a number of advantages over paper insulated and PVC insulated cable. XLPE cable has high electric strength, mechanical strength, high-ageing resisting, environmetal stress resisting antichemical corrossion, and it is simple construction, using convenient and higher operating of long term temperature. It can be laid with no drop restriction.
Various of flame-retardant and non-flame retardant XLPE cable can be manufactured with three technology(peroxide, silane and irradiation crosslinking). The flame-retardant cable covers all kinds of low-smoke low-halogen low-smoke halogen free, and non-smoke nonhalogented and three classes of A, B, C.

2 Standard:

IEC60502,and BS6346, VDE, AS/NZS, UL,etc or as customer's request.

3 The Rated Voltage(kv):

1st class 0.6/1 1.8/3 3.6/6 6/10 8.7/15 12/20 18/30 21/35 2nd class 1/1 3/3 6/6 8.7/10 12/15 18/20 - 26/35

4 Application:

1)These cables are most suitable for direct burial or for installation on trays or ducts, Where there is a risk of mechanical damage, armoured cables should be used.

2) For laying in ground along route with large difference of level able to bear external mechanical forces.

XLPE Insulated Power Cable/0.6/1KV Cu/Al Conductor

Q:I have a house built in 1960 that has what I think is original wiring. It is non-metallic sheathed cable. There are some places (underneath old leaks in the roof) where the outer plastic coating has disintegrated. Is this safe? Is there anything I can do to make it safer?: shell out and get the place inspected for sure. Is it safe? Sounds like it's not very safe. Unless your very hip and savvy or an electrician yourself, have a licensed electrician come and rewire the place. Safety is nothing to play with.

Q:I need to know a SAFE SIMPLE way to run the electrical wiring for an HHO system into my 1985 Chevy Scottsdale. I don't want to incorporate manual on/off switches in the dash. I just want it to turn on when the truck is running, and off when the truck is not in operation. The unit has 4 hex bolts that need to be connected to power source, presumably 2 + 2-I think. I've heard of incorporating the alternator into the wiring. I've heard of splicing power into a unit that only is operable when vehicle is on, such as radio or windshield wiper motor. I've heard of using relays, and some sort of automatic switch that turns on when power is supplied to it, and off when the power ceases to come into it. I've heard things about PWM's and more.I just don't know what I'd need, what some of those things do, or how to hook them up. ANYONE WITH ELECTRICAL KNOWLEDGE /OR HHO INSTALATION KNOWLEDGE.PLEASE HELP. Thank you!: What's an HHO?

Q:I established that under my car the part that shields the exhaust system and electrical wiring from being exposed is broken.It is located right under my hood on the outside (between the ground and acutal car).I am trying to figure out what that part is called so i could buy a replacement.: It is called the Heat shield located on the Exhaust Manifold down pipe. Happy Holidays!

Q:I am installing electrical wiring to an 8x12 portable building. I would like to have about five 110 outlets. One outlet will run a 5,000 btu ac. The other will run a small refrigerator. Can I run all this will a single 110 breaker?: I recommend that you run 10/3 to the shed. Install a small sub panel and use 20 amp circuits to dedicate for the a/c and the fridge, and perhaps one more for each of the additional outlets so they can adequately handle any power equipment you might use. You would feed this with a 2 pole 30 amp breaker in your main panel. Keep grounds and neutrals separate in the sub panel. If you don't want to go this route, then run a 12/3 wire from a 2 pole 20 amp breaker and put the a/c and fridge together on one leg, and use the other leg to feed your other outlets. Other option there is to use 2 lengths of 12/2 and 2 single pole 20 amp breakers. Having the 30 amp sub panel will guarantee your future needs. 20 amp circuits will guarantee you no lag and no tripping of circuits if you ever use a space heater, an air compressor and saw at the same time, etc. 15 amp circuits will make it a stretch to put the fridge and a/c together on one circuit and generally don't handle power tools/equipment well.

Q:I notice that theyre usually associated with two poles: Both the hot and the neutral comprise the circuit for a 120 volt circuit. In a 240 volt circuit, the two hot wires carry current and the neutral doesn't, unless the device has both 120 and 240 volt devices associated with the main device. The above statement is relative to the USA normal household service. This service is a split-phase service from the secondary of a 120/240 volt system. The neutral (center tap of the secondary) is grounded. The neutral is a conductor just as the hot wires are. The hot wires are designated 'hot' because they are not grounded. If you touch one of the hot wires while simultaneously touching something that's grounded (including yourself), you will receive an electrical shock, sometimes resulting in death. The neutral, being grounded, will see a volt or two potential difference between the neutral and ground. This is more pronounced, if the circuit is carrying a load. If the load in your home is completely balanced on both hot wires, the neutral will carry no current between the circuit breaker panel and the transformer. The neutral and the hot wire of a circuit changes polarity 120 times per second. TexMav

Q:How many square wires are used for home wires? It is best to have a detailed answer: ZR: flame retardant K: control cable code VV: recording ethylene insulation and sheath R: soft structure conductor (multi-strand wire) P: copper wire braid shield 1: 1 to 2 * 1.5: two 1.5 square single Twisted pair Full name is: flame retardant type recording ethylene insulated and sheathed copper wire braided shielded flexible cable. If it is 10 pairs of 2 by 1.5 square control cable, that is 10 * 2 * 1.5. In addition, the control cable, the conductor is the largest square: 4 square.

Q:I am running a new 15 amp breaker to 2 new outlets. I wired the first outlet black to brass, white to silver and bare copper to the green screw in the metal box. I then took a new length of wire and connected to my first outlet bottom screws the same way white to silver black to brass an bare copper to the other green screw in the box. then ran the wire to the second outlet and connected it the same way as the other. when i hook up the breaker and restore power the breaker trips. i don't know what i have done wrong Someone please help: the bare copper (ground) wires need to be connected together, along with a pigtail that attaches to the green screw. you may have done this, but the way its worded, sounds like each is seperate. Assuming all is good above, you may have stripped too much off of one of the wires and, as you are fastening the outlet (receptacle) to the box, it is coming in contact with the ground wires. A couple other ideas might be: in the main panel, make sure you wired just black to the breaker, white ground to the grounding pole (all the others are there as well). There is no cut in the wire that you ran from main panel, or from outlet to outlet?

Q:Hello, we have several plugs that have no ground wire. The electrical wire for most of those plus seem to be running through the ceiling (not accessible that I know of). There is a basement and it looks like the plugs that have been grounded are connected to a cold-water pipe. We would like to tap in a junction box in the basement, and run a new wire (that includes ground) to a non-grounded receptacle by drilling a hole through the floor. Then, run the wire externally on the wall, drill another hole right below the receptacle cover to insert the wire inside and make the connection.Is the external wire against code? Does it have to be hidden inside a wall?: You may need the services of an electrician. Your ground is not up to code. You should have a ground rod that is driven into the ground as well as the cold water connection. Also instead of just taking the new line to a J-Box you should go all the way back to the distribution panel, also known as an entrance panel, to go to an unused fuse or circuit breaker. The wire can be run on the surface if you use a surface mold or conduit, with a surface box. However if you turn off the power to that plug you can attach the new wire to the old wire pull the old wire back to the cellar, which will pull the new wire to the cellar eliminating the need to run any wire on the surface. Make sure you loosen the clamp that is holding the wire in place in the box. If the old wire was stapled to the studs too tight you will not be able to pull the wire. In that case you could try to fish the new wire, or go back to the surface mold. That's why your best option may be to call a qualified electrician. You can never be too safe around electricity. Remember electricity can KILL, either outright or through a fire which it can cause if not installed correctly.

Q:Ten five hundred twenty two, five five five four three circles, seeking to explain more specific meaning: The distinction between special and non-specific depends on the nature of the load. Green line from the substation dedicated to the user, only for the user, do not accept the public network overhaul maintenance and power outages, also said that as long as the nearest substation power you have electricity; non-green as the public line. But now power supply reliability is so high, the city network are using ring network, the probability of power failure is small, not to mention you are using a dual power line, power failure is smaller, unless the area power outage. But you also have an important load on their own generators, so non-particularly important load, double power enough to meet its power supply needs.

Q:Hi there! Valentine's Day is Monday, as you all know, and I bought something for my mom and dad; but now I need something for my brother (I don't want to leave him out). He's 25, and I can't particularly buy him anything; he'll buy anything he wants that's in my budget. So, that leaves me to make him something.I was thinking about weaving some old electrical wires/cords together to make some coasters for him apartment. (We have a HUGE box of random cords and wires and such). Would it be bad to make coasters out of them, considering water would be on them? They wouldn't be plugged in or anything, of course.Do you have any other ideas? Thanks!: here is something that is original. it is called the outlet man. something that you won't get in a store but sure is cool.

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