Waterproof Fireproof Wear resistant Interior and exterior walls Fiber Cement Board 4X8
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 2000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
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Packaging Details
1.Hold by Wooden Pallet
2.Covered by PVC and Bonded with plastic belt
3.Fasten around the corners
4.Mounted in container to protect your purchasing.
Specification
1. Small board: 595*595mm /600*600mm /603*603mm /595*1195mm /600*1200mm
2. Big board: 1220*2440mm /1220*3050mm
3. Thickness: 4.5, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 18, 20, 25mm (4.5-30mm)
Remark: Other specification is available.
Application
application: Partition wall and ceiling
Fireproof structure: Fire Rating Partition, Ceiling, wall, door,
Exterior Cladding and façade structure
Sound Insulation structure
Usage in wet areas
Other purpose: applied to furniture, interlayer floor, interior substrate
Technical Data
Item | Index | Unit | ||
Density | ≤1.20 | g/cm3 | ||
Water contain | ≤10 | % | ||
Water absorption | ≤39 | % | ||
Incombustibility | Grade A1 incombustible | |||
Bending strength | Oven dry | cross | ≥12 | M pa |
Parallel | ≥10 | M pa |
Sound and Weather Resistant:
Karmeen fiber cement boards deliver optimal sound and weather insulation. Noise as well as changing weather conditions such as freeze / thaw, heat and water pose no threat to fiber cement board. The boards retain their shape at all times.
Low Maintenance:
The ability of the boards to resist mold and algae attacks is equally impressive. The result is a long-lived façade that saves you time and effort on inconvenient and costly repairs and repaints.
Non-combustible:
The boards are non-combustible, which is your guarantee for a safe building.
Easy Handling:
Karmeen fiber cement boards are flexible and easy to handle. They can be delivered cut to size, ready for installation. All this makes for lower construction costs, shorter construction times, and lower installed costs.
Board Edge:
Fumigation wooden pallets+PE cover + corner protector
- Q: Can cement tiles be directly on the cement board? What material is good?
- Cement board is a cement as the main raw material processing and production of a building plate, is a between the gypsum board and stone, free cutting, drilling, carving of the building products, with its superior to gypsum board, wood fire , Waterproof, anti-corrosion, pest control, sound insulation and far lower than the price of stone and become the construction industry widely used in building materials. The cement board is prefabricated and also cast.
- Q: I removed old tile from my bathroom walls as well as the old vinyl flooring. Underneath the vinyl was cement backerboard, which is good. But all around the outer edges where the wall tile used to be, is a 1 inch gap where the floor board are showing. How do I get this gap filled? Do I need to rip up the old cement backerboard and start over? Can I cut small strips of new backerboard to slip in the crevice? Is there a compound I can fill the gap with? Any help out there?
- If you have the backer board yes you can rip it and put it in. If you do not you can use some of the thinset you (should use) are going to put the tiles down with. Just mix it a little more dry than it calls for (not too dry) and fill this area in and let it dry for a day. Then go back and tile away. The only reason I am not telling you to go out and buy another product is that if it is along the wall edges and it is only an inch its a waste of time and money, you will be fine.
- Q: I am building a balcony. We were going to do tile, but may do a waterproof product instead. There is currently cement board glued (not screwed) to the torch down. Screws were not used because we don't want to have an area where water can seep in. Now I am worried about the glue failing and the cement boards lifting (same issue with tile come to think of it). Is the glue enough to hold down the cement board so I won't have problems in the future?
- If your to do ceramic tile then yes you need to screw and glue: it down. This glue isnt really to hold it down like most people think, its part of the support base for ceramic. You still must nail or screw it down in the require amount in the field ( 8 on center and seams a minimum of 4/6 apart.) If you live in a climate that gets cold enough for freezing , the I recommend you don t use a ceramic or porcelain tile ( frost proof or not) Using a cement board isn t the proper way to do an exposed balcony , even to rain. You need to treat it as a shower flooring and use a drain , liner , and s special cement to form a slight slope to the drain from all direction. It is possible ( Ive never done it yet) to properly do a cement board and water proof the top . The water proofing will have to be flashed up the sides to make a water proof flooring and still incorporate a draining system. If you have any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: in tub and shower enclosures. What material to I use for the ceiling of the shower? Do I need to use cement board even if I am not going to tile?
- Hi Uncle Bill, No, you will be fine with standard plasterboard 12.5mm as long as it's plastered and painted with a few coats of good quality paint. Hope this helps
- Q: it'll probably be another week of them grinding the cement floor and cutting wood boards inside the house until all the wood is installed. there is wood and cement dust EVERYWHERE, and a lot of the downstairs is still just cement and the dust is on that too, so vaccuming/sweeping it isn't really an option, plus the fact that our furniture from the living room which they're laying the wood in now is all in the familyroom and kitchen and can't be moved to sweep underneath. there is a thick layer of dust on EVERYTHING, and we're also coughing from it. is there anything i can do to get rid of this dust without disturbing it with a duster? is there some sort of stuff i can spray that will dissolve the dust?
- No, you can't spray anything to dissolve dust. You have to just wait til they're done and go in with a duster and clean it. You could point a fan out a door I guess.
- Q: We are redoing a small bathroom and I want to redo the old tile and also add some additional tile around some of the other walls. We are planning to use cement board around the tub, but do I need to rip out existing wallboard around the vanity and other walls where I want to add new tiles and replace it with cement backer board? Or should I just add the cement board on top of the existing wallboard in the places I want to add new tile ( I was thinking about maybe tiling halfway up some of the other walls). Thanks!
- First take some rough sandpaper like an 80 grit to rough up the wall that is painted, then use a mastic type adhesive like Acrylpro ceramic tile adhesive from Home Depot. It is $6 for a quart or $13 for a gallon. Use the correct size trowel suggested on the bucket for your tile size. Follow the directions and you will be fine. You would only use Hardibacker or Durock in a shower or bath tub enclosure where heavy use of water goes on. Then you would use the screws made for that product and use thinset adhesive instead of mastic.
- Q: Can cement fiber board be attached to fire board?
- Can be affixed, with Porsche stickers, completely no problem. I am glue factory manufacturers, if you need the right glue
- Q: ok so im trying to attach the cooling fan to my cpu on my motherboard and i cant find any glue but i did find some patch cement in a road hazard kit, i was wondering if this would work or would my computer fry?
- You need thermal paste. You can get a very small tube, enough for 1-3 applications (?) at COMPUSA (or other such place) for under $5. I work on m-boards/processors all the time and know that some kind of adhesive would probably ruin your computer. I've had many heat sinks/fans that would not separate from the processor, and sometimes lift it out of the socket without loosening the arm that tightens it. The kind of damage cant be (easily/cheaply) repaired. Get thermal paste, apply very thin amount to proc, covering the entire (proc) heat sink. Same to heat sink/fan.
- Q: The cement is in a three foot hole used with lumber for a hammock which, was too small as it broke off at the base. I've read where other people have dug around the cement to loosen it, but my main problem would be lifting it out once it's loose. Another option I found was using a sledge hammer to break it up but I don't own one. I'm sure I could rent one from my local home improvement store, but thought I'd try this avenue first to see if there were any alternatives.Thanks!
- Rent a rotary hammer drill and turn the kludge into swiss cheese. Use a hammer to chip off enough of the top so that you can cover it with dirt and hide it.
- Q: Want to do their own cement board, but made out of the color on the white, how can make the cement board color made dark gray
- In cement and asbestos cement, carbon blacks are often used as black or gray colorants, which are often used in roofing materials, cement construction materials, asbestos cement boards and highway concrete roads. For the application of carbon black in the cement and the requirements of the same paper, it is best to add a certain amount of wetting agent. Carbon black for cement also has a role is the cement crushing accelerator, which can shorten the cement crushing time, and can also be its size thinning, to promote the flow of dry powder. In addition, in the anti-static coating can be carbon black and fiber in an appropriate proportion of mixed into the concrete, so that the concrete is conductive.
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Waterproof Fireproof Wear resistant Interior and exterior walls Fiber Cement Board 4X8
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 2000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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