• Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board System 3
Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Ref Price:
$1.50 - 3.00 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

Product Applications:

1.Indoor ceiling of industrial and resident building.

2.Partition of industrial and resident building.

3.The ceiling and partition of the bathroom and other wet condition building.

4.Indoor ceiling and partition as base board of the decoration for operation room,clean room of hospital or laboratory .

5.The fireproof board of the air passage.

6.Furniture or furniture's accessories.

Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation

7)non-asbestos

8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:

It's 100% free of asbestos, formaldehyde, benzene and other harmful substances and with excellent performance like high strength, large size, light weight, fire and water proofing, green and environmental friendly, high efficient and energy-saving. Therefore, this kind of new material is vigorously developed and recommended by the country.

Product Specifications:

 

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

 

FAQ:

1. Which port do you choose for FOB ?

    Answer: FOB Shanghai Port.

2. What's your delivery time of your products?

    Answer: About 20 days after confirm the order.

3. What about the terms of payment?  

    Answer: 30%TT advanced payment, balance seven days before shipment.

    Other terms of payments also can be negotiated.

4. What's your Minimum order quantity(MOQ) of your product?

    Answer: Generally, MOQ is 1x20' container. Others can contact with me directly.

 

Images:

 

 

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

Fiber Cement Board 100% Non-Asbestos Smart Board

 

 

Q: Glass fiber reinforced cement (GRC) board is what
Specializing in the production of GRC plate, the production cycle to reach 5,000 square meters, professional exports to foreign countries.
Q: I had to make some necessary repairs behind the wonderboard and I ended up making 6x6 inches holes through the cement board. I have repair sheetrock in the past but this cement board looks difficult to repair. I have googled online on how to do the repairs but I could not find much. Thank you in advance for all who will answer.
Patching Cement Board
Q: I have a 5x20 room off my basement which sits under my front porch. All four walls of the room are cement block all the way up to the ceiling which is the cement slab from the porch above. There is a wood ceiling in the room that has gotten wet from leaks above. Is it safe to remove the wood joists and plywood in that room, fix the leaks and replace it? This doesn't support any weight from the slab above, does it? I assume that it was probably used as the bottom of the form when the slab was poured. Also, when I replace the ceiling, can I attach the ledger board using concrete sleeve anchors? Can these be fastened into the block wall? I'm not sure if they are hollow or have been filled with gravel or concrete. I plan on using the ledger board to fasten joist hanger to and frame back up my ceiling for insulation and wiring. The current ledger is attached with masonry nails. Any thoughts?
Your ceiling may very well be no more than the bottom forms for the slab, but you really need to make sure. Attempting to seal the concrete slab from the underside isn't advisable. Concrete draws moisture, so you will always have a seepage problem after you're finished. I'd suggest sealing the slab on the surface and make sure it quit weeping before proceeding with the remainder of your project. Not all concrete blocks are filled. To secure your ledger board I'd suggest using a lag bolt with a lead spread type toggle. Drill into the block and insert to lead, which will hold the lag bolt. Hope this has been some help. Good Luck
Q: I am buying materials for the shower pan and all the other things I need but am not sure what thickness of cement board to use for the shower walls. I am covering it with tile, if that matters. Thanks
Use Aquapanel Water Resistant Backing Board. It is suitable for showers and tiling. Obtainable from large DIY stores or builders' merchants eg Wickes, Jewsons Homebase etc. Size: 1200 x 900 x 12.5mm Price: around ?14 a panel
Q: Hi. I can ollie, shuvit, pop shuvit, powerslide, boneless, but I can't land a kickflip on cement. I can land it on grass like every time, but I sometimes land with my feet right next to each other usally in the middle of the board, SO PLEASE TELL ME HOW I CAN LAND ON THE BOLTS PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And also PLEASE TELL HOW TO LAND ON CEMENT BECAUSE I ALWAYS LAND WITH MY FRONT FOOT OR MY BACK FOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Usually my front foot. I really want to land this every sigle time so PLEASE ur best answer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
properly attempt training on the cement in trouble-free terms any further so which you would be able to get used to the action of the cement. additionally merely dedicate. a lot of it particularly is ether worry or merely loss of dedication. Grass has no action in it so which you need to get used to the rolling action of the cement for a whilst and then shop attempting the kickflip yet dont do it in grass it is going to easily wreck your potential to do it on the cement. you're able to do it in the grass lower back when you land it as quickly as on the cement because of fact the grass merely particularly ruins your skills at touchdown it in view which you need to have the potential to land with action and stream. no longer in trouble-free terms touchdown and sticking there.
Q: Unfortinatly i already have the tile but i was hoping i could use self leveling cement then atattch the tile to it. is this even a posabilityor should i use hardyback board and if i do how can i atattch it to the cement
just use the self leveler, let it set and install the tile right on to the floor, no hardybacker needed....( use the right mastic ) lic. gen. contractor
Q: I've done the hard way - bunches of expensive special screws. I found that to be expensive and time consuming (and therefore back breaking). It seems like it takes just as long to do the backer board as it does to do all the remaining steps with the tile. Can I use nails? If so, what kind? Thinset and nails? The subfloor is plywood with old vinyl tiles, I have no intention of remove the old vinyl tiles first. Please reply if you have personal experience with an alternative. Thanks!
If you want it to last you should thin set AND screw the cement board down. Cement board is not just used in wet areas. It is a dimensionally stable product and properly installed it will keep your tile and grout from cracking and/or coming loose. If you try to scimp on the prep then you will be wasting your time and money. Some installers do nail it down but bare in mind that this will void any warranty. Don't forget to tape the joints too. If the vinyl tiles are down tight and height room to room is not an issue then leave it in place and go over top.
Q: The cement is in a three foot hole used with lumber for a hammock which, was too small as it broke off at the base. I've read where other people have dug around the cement to loosen it, but my main problem would be lifting it out once it's loose. Another option I found was using a sledge hammer to break it up but I don't own one. I'm sure I could rent one from my local home improvement store, but thought I'd try this avenue first to see if there were any alternatives.Thanks!
Rent a rotary hammer drill and turn the kludge into swiss cheese. Use a hammer to chip off enough of the top so that you can cover it with dirt and hide it.
Q: more upscale. is this true? is there a big difference in the look? how do they differ in appearance? whats so great about it?
Vinyl siding, especially the cheapest grades have a plastic appearance. It's inexpensive and it doesn't dent like the old aluminum siding. It can be maintained with an occasional spray of the hose or power washer. It's usually a desireable selling-point --maintenance-free -- Cement board is more costly and requires painting. It does allow for changing the color of your house for the price of a fresh coat of paint. It's durable and long-lasting. It's usually molded with a wood-grain pattern and It has a noticeably more upscale appearance than vinyl. Some local ordinances prohibit vinyl siding due to its cheap appearance.
Q: This is a 1950s sink.
I assume that you mean the tiles are attached to the counter-top. The process is called demolition, and it can get dusty. Safety glasses are a must, a dust mask is recommended. First, starting at the back-splash, slice any caulk at the seams where the tile joins the wall with a sharp knife. Then, crack the tiles, enough to get a pry-bar under them. Peel, pry or knock the tiles off, exposing the plywood or cement board underneath. If you can find screws or nails attaching the back-splash to the wall, remove them. Then, look underneath the counter for screw or nails which attach the cabinet to the wall, remove them. At this point, you can try prying the whole structure away from the wall(s). Be careful about pry-bar placement. You should only pry where there is a stud on the inside of the wall, typically every 16. If it doesn't budge, look for any fasteners you missed. NB- Before you start, turn off the water, disconnect all the plumbing, cover the drain pipe (to keep debris out of it and sewer gas inside it. A drop-cloth would help in the cleanup. expect to spend some time patching the wall when you're done. Good Luck

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