wafer type butterfly check valve

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Specifications

Wafer Type Butterfly Check Valve

PN10/16/25
DN80~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

Q:wut is the purpose of this valve on tanks and on piping? explain wut the vacuum part does and wut pressure does? thanks: The pressure relief valve is to protect a tank or piping from rupturing from excess pressure. A vacuum relief valve would prevent tanks and piping from collapsing from too little internal pressure.

Q:My furnace cut out about a year ago. The hvac guy i used told me the gas valve was no good and that the flu was partially blocked. I cleaned out the flu, he replaced the gas valve ($700+) and it worked great for a year. Today the furnace does not fire up. Pilot is working. I cleaned out the flu (there was definitely quite a bit of debris, so that was probably the cause for the shut off) .... The flu is now clear, but when i turn the system back on the thermostat calls for heat, but there is no gas flow to the burner... could the valve have failed that quick, or should i be looking at something else like the CO sensor or something... just looking for some direction before shelling out another 700 bucks... Thanks in advance for any ideas or assistance....: I was wondering why the flue is clogged? I've never had to clean mine. Well anyway, I use a shop vac to vacuum out any dust or rust that accumulates on the gas valve on the rare occasions it failed to work,and that fixed it every time.

Q:I'm drawing a complete diagram of the heart, but I'm unsure of the positions of the different valves. I know there are the pulmoary valve, the aortic valve, tricuspid/right AV, bicuspid/left AV, semilunar valves, mitral...but I know there are several names for some of them, like I think the mitral and the bicuspid are the same...but there are so many sources online I don't know which to believe. If anyone knows for absolute sure the right names and where they are it would be very appreciated if you could help :): the bicuspid is the same as the mitral valve it seems like anatomy has 12 names for everything In anatomy, the heart valves maintain the unidirectional flow of blood in the heart by opening and closing depending on the difference in pressure on each side. They are mechanically similar to reed valves. There are four valves in the heart (not counting the valve of the coronary sinus, and the valve of the inferior vena cava): The two atrioventricular (AV) valves between the atria and the ventricles, also called tricuspid and bicuspid. The two semilunar (SL) valves, in the arteries leaving the heart, also called pulmonary and aortic. This I know for sure. Drawing pictures always helped me keep it straight and I just got an A in anatomy. best of luck to you

Q:So outside we have a gas grill. There is a valve to turn when you want to use it. U can only hear the gas going when u turn the burner knobs but say u left the valve open and no knobs turned at all for 5 hours is gas escaping or does it only escape when the grills knobs are turned? Thanks: To answer your question directly, as long as the valve is open gas will continue to flow until its turned to the off position.

Q:The timing belt in my 93 honda accord went out going about 45mph,i then paid someone 150 dollars to put in the new timing belt and it began to shake and he told me that the valves were bent.....i went to a local mechanic and he told me that the valves in honda accords dont bend...is this true?and how much is an average cost to repair the valves and pay someone to do all this?can i do it myself?: OK the valves int eh honda when the timing belt goes will impact the top of the cylinder. Now wether this bends them or not isn't the issue what is the issue is that there is damage to what is called the top end of the engine. A new head, is your best bet. As long as it didn't crack a piston when the valve hit the piston. If you are mechanically able I would go get a used head from a junkyard. go to a shop and have it checked for cracks etc. and have the valves checked. Not necessarily a valve job done unless it needs it. Put that on and that should fix your shaking issue. This is the route I have taken on numerous engines.

Q:my mid eighties GM full size car with a 305 just started to have a problem...it runs fine at idle.....runs rough/sluggish at speed......when I take my foot off the gas there is a fast rattle in the engine.........and sometimes the engine likes to idle fast.....I replaced the catalytic converter last year ...........so now I am thinking of changing the egr valve....there is no service engine soon light on and this car is a mid eighties so no obd 2 system on this car......any other ideas? thanks: EGR valve got sooty,and rusty and dirty and then they dont work right. They either dont open or they get stuck open and cause the car to run lousey. If the valve has been i the car since the 80's it is probably about time to either clean it or change it. do you have haynes or chilton manual for the car? they explain alot.

Q:what's the differences of American standard valve standard and Europe valve standard.Like API598 and ISO5208 , EN12266 valve inspection standard, or API600 valve design manufacture standard,and EN598,: It is hard to say generally. Each valve standard will cite other relevant standards, so it is API system and ISO system. Usually it has some differences between API and ISO valve, but it is similar. Most time the design Principal is same, the structure of valve is similar. For example , API swing check valve, it has an hanging system without bolt outside of body, but DIN swing check valve has an bolt for stem. The dimension obviously is different, API calculated by inch, but ISO usually use metric unit. Of course it can be transformed to same dimension. Below is some API standard, and ISO or DIN Standard. We are just able to discuss this topic for specific standard. For API598 and ISO 5208, in my opinion, it is a little different, but in fact, the differences is not very big, if an valve able to pass API598, usually same for ISO 5208. Same for ISO5208 to API 598.

Q:I have a Jupiter double horn. The thumb valve will randomly stick down and not want to come back up. It however only does this when I play a scale or am in the middle of a song, so when I ask the director or an instrument repair person to help, they think I'm crazy and see nothing wrong with it. Also, the first valve is slightly bent sideways towards the second valve. I got it used and it came like this. It is not horrible, but that makes it significantly slower than the other valves and sticks a LOT. All repair shops do is take my money and claim they've fixed it when they have done nothing. It is so frustrating. What should I do? And the oil doesn't help with either of these things, which is even MORE frustrating.: thats easily particularly straightforward for brand spanking new horns, somewhat hand-crafted ones. The valves are nevertheless very tight and there would be steel debris nevertheless interior the tubing/valves from manufacture, it in basic terms desires to be taken to a competent restoration save and wiped clean thoroughly. previously you do this in basic terms attempt putting oil on the lower back and desirable (decrease than valve cap) bearings, and take out each and all the valve slides and positioned some mild oil (Al Cass works constructive) oil into the valve itself. in the event that they nevertheless draw close then take it to be wiped clean. and FYI concert activities on incredibly new horns isn't a competent concept, apart from mechanical subject concerns, you're able to desire to take time to get used to the device and its pitch dispositions. in view that probably is unquestionably no longer your final horn, in basic terms evaluate that next time.

Q:and i want to but over size valve seatscan i do it in a 1991 chevy chenynne k2500: just age mostly and any Machine shop is where to take it an d talk with them

Q:Hey quick Q, I heard somewhere that you could degrease the the reed valve? I love cleaning up my CR250 as much as I can. I just want to know if this is done, and if you could, tell me where I'm supposed to clean.Thanks.: The flow of gasoline rushing past the reeds is enough to keep them clean. No degreasing is necessary. Are you sure you didn't hear de-carbonize the power valve? If so, remove the power valve and linkage from the cylinder. Remove hardened deposits with a wire wheel on a bench grinder. Clean the parts with parts cleaner.

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