wafer type butterfly check valve

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Specifications

Wafer Type Butterfly Check Valve

PN10/16/25
DN80~ DN2000

Technical Specifications

- Design and manufacture: EN593, EN1074-1 and 2

- Face to face dimension: EN558-1 Series 14 (DIN3202 F4)

EN558-1 Series 13 (BS5163)

- Flange dimensions and drillling: EN1092-2 PN10/16/25

- Size range: DN100 - DN2000

- Max. working pressure: 1.0/1.6/2.5 MPa

- Inspection test: EN12266

- Working temperature: -15°C to +80°C

- Suitable medium: water

Main Fetures

- Double eccentric disc reduces seal wear and torque

- Body seat ring is welded directly on the body

- Bi-directional flow and low head loss

- Disc sealing ring to be replaceable on pipeline without dismantling the valve

- Body and disc inside and outside epoxy powder coated (min. 250 microns)

- Opening and closing indicators are provided

- Coupling flange for electric actuator in compliance with ISO5211

- Gearbox and electric actuator operation available

Main Parts and Materials

Body and disc: ductile iron EN GJS500-7/400-15

Shafts: stainless steel AISI 420

Body seat ring: stainless steel AISI 304

Disc sealing ring: EPDM or NBR

Retaining ring: stainless steel or ductile iron

Shaft bearing: Du bushes (self lubricating bushes)

Shaft bush: gunmetal

Q: Why are pig hearts valves used as replacements for damaged heart valves in humans? Are there any complications and are they still used today?: The tissue is most like ours. Yes, they are still used. They have a low rate of rejection.

Q: Hi. I looked at instructional videos for installing shutoff valves and instead of simply unscrewing old valve, the plumber simply cut the copper pipe. Is this necessary? Why can't I simply unscrew old shutoff valves from copper pipe?: Shutoff valves come in two varieties. 1. A compression fitting and looks like it is bolted onto the pipe. 2. Is soldered onto the copper pipe at each end of the tap. If you are paying your plumber by the hour, believe me, you will want him in and out including travel time in under an hour. If cutting the copper is and would be his quickest way then let him have at it. Good Luck Richard

Q: Serious answers only please. I have a 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5.8L 351 c.i. engine. My check engine light comes on periodically when I drive. When I bought the truck a year ago the gas mileage wasn't too bad, about 9-10 mpg. I've only put about 3,000 miles on it this past year, and now the needle drops just driving it across town. I work at a Chevy dealership, and I've worked at another Chevy dealer as well as a Ford. I've always done my own work on my cars and am currently restoring a 1967 Mustang, so I have decent knowledge under the hood. I scanned the truck and it has a stored code for EGR valve voltage too high (stuck open). How bad could this be hurting my gas mileage? It's $160 for the valve and sensor even after my discount, and being a college student that's a lotta $ to pay. I'm selling the truck and need it running perfect when I do. Please, serious answers only, and help is greatly appreciated!: Get out your jumper leads and backprobe the egr solinoid. ok. 1st thing......attempt to kill the motor at idle using the egr solinoid. apply ground to the proper wire(not red) and see if the egr valve operates, killing the motor idle. if it does operate, but doesn't kill the motor......you have some cleaning to do. if it operates, and kills the motor.......the valve and solinoid are ok. (the solinoid should also vent the egr valve vacuum when de-energized) Now.....for the tricky part. AFTERMARKET EVP SENSORS SELDOM READ CORRECTLY. 1. Turn the key on and check the voltages at the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Position (EVP) Sensor. The Brown/White (BN/W) should be 5v, the Grey/Red (GY/R) is ground and must read 0.1v or less at all times. The Brown/Green (BN/GN) is the signal and MUST read 0.40v to 0.45v. If it does not, the vertical position of the sensor must be changed BY ANY MEANS NESSESARY. a NEW valve will sit higher than an old one......but sometimes not. There are things you can try to lengthen the shaft to increase the voltage reading, such as heat shrink tubing. This EVP issue is an annoying one (even for experienced mechanics), but has little effect on gas milage, unless it is TRULY stuck open. If it were stuck open.....the truck would be running very rough at idle or die.

Q: Does a faulty pcv valve (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) cause excessive exhaust smoke ?: Yes. This would definitely cause excess smoke, probably white in color. If the pcv valve is bad, it's probably leaking water into your oil, and oil into your cylinders, thus your engine is burning oil. This is an extremely cheap and easy fix. Make sure that when you change the pcv valve, you change the pvc valve grommet as well (the little black seal around the valve). Also, be extremely careful not to crack any plastic from the pcv valve or the grommet, because pieces of the plastic could fall into your intake manifold, and then you have to remove the intake manifold cover and that can become a pain in the a**.

Q: It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.: Do a compression test, that'll tell you exactly whats wrong. Or have a mechanic do one.

Q: Is there a way to test the EGR valve to see if its still good ? and working right .: Yes there is. Disconnect the rubber hose on top of the EGR valve. Connect a hand-held vacuum pump to this fitting. Start the engine. Slowly apply vacuum to the fitting on the valve. While applying vacuum with the engine running at idle speed, the idle speed should drop or the engine may even stall. In that case the valve is working. If the engine speed doesn't change, the EGR valve may be defective, or EGR tube may be plugged with carbon, or the passages in the intake and exhaust manifolds may be plugged with carbon. In this case remove the EGR valve from the engine. Again apply vacuum to the EGR valve and observe the stem on the EGR valve. If the stem is moving, it can be assumed that the EGR valve is ok. In that case clean the EGR tube and the intake and exhaust manifolds passages Hope this will help you.

Q: Hi, I was wondering if it takes a minute or two for the water to actually turn on after turning the valve? I've turned it as far as I can counter-clockwise but there's still no water. Is there something else that needs to be done to get the water back?: It might take a few seconds (not minutes) to get water to a faucet in the house if your house valve has a drain back feature (house water flows backward to empty the pipes so they don't freeze in winter if you leave (for Arizona or Florida!) and turn the water off.) I turned my water off this way once and called the water company in a panic fearing I had broken a pipe when water started bubbling up through the ground. { Hey, it's funny now. } [Was advised to only use main shutoff at the road in the future.] My house valve under the front water faucet is seen by a 1/2 (or so) square metal stick barely sticking out of the ground. Use vise grips or correct size wrench to grip and turn. Good luck.

Q: fisher control valve: One minor point to add to Artsupremo's answer. Valves can be either air to open or air to close. With one you start with the valve closed and the other with the valve open. The procedure is the same for both types of valves, I just wanted to clarify that point.

Q: A friend of mine is having open-heart surgery next week to replace a heart valve. He needs to decide whether he wants a mechanical valve or a biological one. He is 28 years old. Which would you choose and why?: Ask the surgeon which would be most appropriate in,If you trust your surgeon let him make the decision if you don't get a different surgeon.

Q: I've been diagnosed with mitral valve prolapse, my doctor just told me that i need to setup an appointment with the hospital to look at treatments for heart mitral valve prolapse-to possibly have a heart valve replaced. I am wondering if i should setup an appointment with mayo clinice in minnesota to get another opinion on that? I'm wondering if surgery is an only option available to me, i have been taking beta blockers that have been no help for the past 3-4 months. Thanks.: hi Sporad I had a mitral valve replacement 4 years ago and I'm alive. Ive been taking beta blockers for 6 years and they work a bit there is one blue tablet that works very well at slowing down hart rates but Dr's don't want to prescribe it till your on your on the way to the knife. When you come out of the op they will be giving you pannadol every 4 hours so be prepared to take lot's of them as no other pain killer performs the job. Start coughing in post op and don't stop you have to cough your lungs back up onto your rib cage. Get out of bed and exercise you lungs the post op hart ward is not the place to get better. Once you have your new valve or your old ones been fixed up you are ready to go. The stitches don't come out your blood flow has been restored its back to being great. The bad days are really bad at the start and then they get less bad unless you have a really bad day. Just remember they don't just give these things to people who don't need them. If you need one your getting a new chance to live. The team of people who put new Mitral Valves in are not just standing around waiting for handouts they are do it once fix it up people. They wont be doing it again for a long time. It costs heaps of money so relax ha ha and make sure your not taking any blood thinning meds just before your op even rub on cream and eye drops check it all with your Doctor. Because they can cause big problems in the surgery. Ask for a baked carbon valve and join me in the carbonvalvers group. I had mine done at the Royal Melbourne,however the MAYO clinic is not a back street job so book in quick. I know you want to time to relax and think things over and there will be plenty of time for that when your walking up and down the wards. ohno not the white tube. All the best Alan

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