• TPK Self Coupling Start Pump Control Panel System 1
TPK Self Coupling Start Pump Control Panel

TPK Self Coupling Start Pump Control Panel

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
310 unit/month

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TPK Series Starting Control Cabinet

Performance and advantages:
    It can achieve the automatic self-coupling pressure reduction starting of the induction motor to accelerate and stop the motor with the protection from short circuit, open phase and overload,and improve the overtemperture protection and the leak protection of the water pump oil chamber.
Applicable scope :
   It′s applicable for automatic control of domestic and industrial water supply and drainage, automatic control,spray and booster pump,control of cold and hot water circulating pump of air-conditioning, and control and starting of other AC motors.
Technical parameters:
control motor power:15-110KW
control voltage:380V
number of control water pump:1-5sets


Q: removed my water pump to replace it. i have the fan and clutch assembly still attached...i have no idea how to remove these...the fan clutch has bolts that hold the fan to it...and i did remove those but im just not sure how to separate this assembly...my water pump pulley has 4 holes...and no bolts so i presume it's pressed on...and there looks to be a very large nut between the pulley and the fan/clutch assembly...any help would be appreciated on this...i'd much rather go to the parts store w/ the old pump instead of guessing.....thnx in advance...
I,m with JOHN R in this one, confirm your radiator fan seize is working and not purely unfastened wheeling all of the time and additionally confirm that there is no air trapped interior the cooling gadget.With engine off crack a heater hose unfastened close to the heater center and pour anti freeze in until it starts to return out the disconnected hose. And the cooling fan could become noticeably louder whilst the engine is heat and in case you shut the engine off it is going to experience stiffer to coach than it does cool. sturdy success.
Q: About 3 weeks ago our water stopped. We replaced the switch at the pump and it was fine. Today when I was running water, it stopped again. I went and flipped the breaker on it, but it still didn't come on. About 20 minutes later, it started working again. Have you ever had this happen or do you know what the problem could be?
The pump has a capacitor start motor. Electrolytic capacitors fail. The capacitor is not physically down the well with the motor though, just electrically connected. There should be a pump control box on your wall somewhere with a pump shut off lever on the side, some relays and a large motor start capacitor hidden inside the box. Kill the main power, open the box, remove the capacitor and replace it with a new one with the same number on it. You can get them at any pump supply place, or even just order it on the internet. I recommend taking a picture first for reassembly if you can't understand the schematic on the inside of the box. Sometimes electrolyte from the bulged out old cap obliterates the schematic anyway, so having a pic is a good idea. Look on the internet for motor start caps if you can't figure out which item it is.
Q: Pump flow 6M3/H is an hour, how many tons of water?
=1 tons of water 1M3So 6m3/hIt's 6 tons / hour
Q: What are some good brands of aquarium water pumps? I have had bad experiances with Hydor Seltz (cheapest ones I could find, ugg, I know, you get what you pay for) pumps, failing very quickly, and sounding like plastic gears grinding around inside. What is the best kind to get?I need one that's around 150gph
i have a topfin that works well for me.
Q: are there any pumps that can save energy more? Environmental protection is necessary and the price is not high.
Water pump. ( Pond ) Sump pump. ( Flood prevention ) Auto water pump. ( Radiator ) What is the specific purpose of the pump.
Q: Today I was installing a new water pump on my 1999 grand Prix. When tightening the bolts one of them snapped off. Now the pump leaks from that broken bolt. I was wondering if I would be able to stop the leak using some sort of sealant or would I have to take the car in to get the bolt removed?
The bolts around the pump have several reasons and one of them is for proper mounting, another is when engine cooling system and block expand when engine is running gaskets dont leak, ect. Yes, that bolt has to be removed, so that bolt hole can be used. If you have enough mechanical ability to remove and replace the pump, with the proper tools, you could do it.
Q: Yang Chengtai big, the pump power is too small, the water pump will be bad?
No, only when the operation of the low lift point is super power (burning motor), high lift point operation, low efficiency, small amount of water, or even no water. For example, a nominal 10 meters pump, flow rate of 10 square / hour. The actual lift 15 meters, the water pump is small or no water. The actual head is 5 meters, traffic may 20 square / hour, this time may exceed current, the motor may burn.
Q: I have an 1982 El Camino 305 small block and am having troubles with determining if it is the gasket or the pump. I can't quite locate a leak, but it seems to centralize from the water pump and drip down the hose to the radiator. After my engine gets hot, which mind you my temp light has never turned on, and I shut of my car steam rolls out from behind my pump. I think it is the pump and please be it so. (Easier and cheaper fix. Replacement with a inexpensive part XP.)
that would be a failing water pump, a head gasket would leak into the oil or exhaust most of the time.
Q: My old pump burned up so i recently replaced it (with a refurbished pump) I have new pipe to the pump, new tank. my pump is a 1/2 hp 230v pump, I also replaced the control box. With my pump plugged in and the water coming straight out of the pipe bypassing the tank when I turn the power on I will get water for a minute or so then I won't get water for a minute. This will keep happening. I have checked the switch and when I quit getting water there is still power going to the pump. any suggestions or ideas? bad wiring or bad pump?...I know that there is water in thew well, the pump is located at 100 ft of a 115 ft well and i can see the water level about 10 ft underground.
A good pump would pump water continuously without being hooked to the tank. You say the power is still going to the pump when it quits but you didn't say if it is getting the proper voltage and you didn't say if the pump is still running but just not pumping. If it's still running then try raising the pump some. If it's not running then I'd suspect the thermal protector switch so you'd need a new pump. Are you sure there's a full 230V going to the pump? Sometimes ants like to get in the electrical pressure switch and get in between one or more of the contacts.
Q: Mechanic really could not locate the origin of the leak but says the water pump needs to be replaced and says it's a lot of work and would cost $350. How can the origin of the leak be determined. He used a pump and raised the pressure on the radiator but that didn't reveal anything either. Please help.
It's probably the water pump, but if he has to take the timing belt off anyway, ask him if he can just put a new timing belt on for only the cost of the timing belt.

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