• Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable System 1
  • Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable System 2
  • Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable System 3
  • Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable System 4
Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable

Special Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m
Supply Capability:
100000 m/month

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Introduction:  

Six types are included: copper core inflaming retarding PVC insulated flexible cable (ZA-RV).copper core inflaming retarding PVC insulated inflaming retarding PVC sheathed flexible cable (ZA-RW),copper core inflaming retarding PVC insulated steel tape armored inflaming retarding PVC sheathed flexible cable (ZA-RW22).copper core fire resistant low smoke and halogen-free polyolefin insulated flexible cable (WDNA-RY),copper core fire resistant low smoke and halogen-free polyolefin insulated low smoke and halogen-free polyolefin sheathed flexible cable (WDNA-RYY),copper core fire resistant low smoke and halogen-free polyolefin insulated steel tape armored low smoke and halogen-free polyolefin sheathed flexible cable (WDNA-RYY23).

 YD/T 1173-2010 "Inflaming Retarding Fire Resistant Flexible Cable Used for Communication Power Supply"
GB/T 5023 'PVC Insulated Cable with Rated Voltage of 450/750V and Below"

 

Operating characteristics

 (1) Rated operating voltage of cable: 4501750V (ZA-RV, WDNA-RY),600/1000V (ZA-RVV, ZA-RVV22, WDNA-RYY, WDNA-RYY23).
(2) The long term operating temperature for cable shall not be more than 70℃.
(3) Minimum bending radius: non-armored cable: inflaming retarding type一six times of outer diameter of cable, fire resistant type -12 times of outer diameter of cable; armored cable: 20 times of outer diameter of cable.

 

Specification: 

Type

Name

No.of cores

Nominal cross-sectional area

RVVZ

Special inflaming retarding fire resistant flexible cable for China Telecom

1~5

1.5~300mm²

Q: Welding cable (230v) doesn't, so why would (14v) car audio cables
Well....that depends on how big the amp is. An extension cord has either 2 or three wires inside at somewhere between 16 and 12 gauge wire. You could twist all the conductors together and be good up to about 40 amps with three 12 gauge wires. The issue with amplifiers is current not voltage. The thicker the wire the more current it will handle. Most any wire you buy is rated at least 120V. Check what size fuse the amp requires, if it is more than 30 to 40 amps I would buy the right size single wire for the amp. Also, fuse the wire at the battery. Fire is not our friend. :)
Q: I have a Technics SL-D20 Turntable recently purchased from a garage sale that lacks a power cable. The turntable has a 2 prong adapter, but it is not one that has a square and semi-circular portion, but rather seems to accept an elliptical two pronged cable. It is listed on the back as Power Source AC120V 50 or 60hZ 6wThank you
That type of connector was common before the IEC style cable became the standard. Perhaps you can scrounge some more tag sales or estate sales, friends garages and attics. You might check to see if there is an electronics surplus store in your town. Those guys never throw anything away.
Q: The hard drive is: Western Digital Caviar SE WD3200AAJS 320GB 7200 RPM, I'm getting from Newegg OEM. I know that OEM's don't come with a SATA cable which is fine but where can I find a compatible power cable? If it comes with one already please let me know. Thank you in advance.
An internal drive would be powered by your power supply. If you don't have any additional SATA power cords in your PC, I believe you can by a 4 prong to SATA converter. Otherwise you may have to look at getting a new power supply for your PC that has more SATA power adapters
Q: The power cable is selected according to the cable current ()
The copper core grinding first to the copper core on the flux (rosin or solder paste)
Q: when i start up the laptop it works fine ,when the power cable is plugged in the lights will flash sometimes and the laptop will not recognise that it is plugged in. i have bought a new adaptor and this is still happening, any help would be great
You can't just glue it back on, it needs to be resoldered or replaced. That flashing you see when pressing the power button is telling you that the battery has not enough power to boot the computer. It clearly isn't interfacing with the power adapter since the electrical connection is broken.
Q: Basically, I lost my power adapter to my monitor, and to be honest, I would like to try to avoid buying a new one entirely. I have an old HP laptop power cord that fits into my monitor, but the power specifications on it are different. The power rating on my monitor is 19V and 1.58A. I'm just assuming that's what it needs to run, and that you shouldn't go over that. My power supply from my old laptop converts standard AC into DC at 18.5V, which I'm assuming the difference in voltage between 19 and 18.5 won't really affect anything, but the amperage on my power supply is close to twice as high, at 3.5A output. That's where my concern is, if I where to plug this into my monitor would anything bad potentially come out of it? Don't comment saying quot;Oh, just buy a new one.quot;, I've stated I want to try and avoid that. Thanks in advance.
Hp Monitor Power Cord
Q: Things to think about: -valley has steep sides -the slopes are rain forest or small villages -no roads built in the area -the cable towers are 5000 ft apart at some points, but others only 3000 ft -the towers are 15000 ft above the floor, others only 500 ft*activities must not create significant noise*Cables are not allowed to sag below 120 its for my technical report for civil engineering technology....any ideas will help even the craziest ones..thankss soo much
Like ships at sea transferring supplies: start with a thin line shot across, the thin line ties to a heavier one, and finally to the actual heavy weight (power cable in your case). Or how about a helicopter pull.
Q: My system was working fine until today. The bass stopped hitting to the music and thumps in intervals of about 5 seconds regardless of whether the music is turned up or down. I hooked up my system without my capacitor to see if this was the problem. It worked...but only for a minute. The bass was hitting like it was suppose to but all of a sudden it went back to the interval thumping and the power cable got hot to the touch and the fuse inside the holder was melted. What the heck is the problem?
Not the fuse. You're power wire is too small to handle the load. For 800-1100 watts RMS systems use 4 AWG wire. The main fuse should be the sum of the fuse ratings on the amp.
Q: Can anyone explain where I need to plug in the 6-pin cable for my ATI Radeon 1650 Pro graphics card? Or any pictures/diagrams? Thanks!
my PSU came with that adapter :P
Q: I have a yamaha dgx-300 keyboard, and lost the power cable to it about a year ago. Do any stores like circuit city or something carry a power cord that would be compatible with my keyboard?
Here are two adapters for your keyboard, your manual or a sticker on the keyboard, should tell you which one you need.

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