Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 VBS7211 6491B
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 30000 m/month
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Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V
Production Introduction for Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
Voltage Rate: 300/500V, 450/750V
Range of Nominal cross section: 0.75 mm2 ~ 630 mm2
Conductor: Class 1/2 Plain annealed copper wires, solid or stranded
Constructions Insulation: XLPE or LSZH material
Core color: Brown, Grey, Black, Blue, Green/Yellow or others on request
Max. Operating Temperature: 70 ℃ , can be 90 ℃ ,105 ℃ and 125 ℃ as per
requirement
Packing: 100 meter/roll or as per requirement
Application for Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
These cables is with features of fire retardant, low smoking and halogen free, it is applied to fixed installing with heat resistance requirement of the places with a special demands of flame retardancy, the density of smoke emission and toxic index if the cable is burnt, such as subway, tunnel, nuclear power station, etc.
Production Standard for Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
I EC 60332, IEC 61034, IEC 60754, BS 7211 , HD 22.9, VDE0282, GB/T19666
The Feature for Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
The cable can be of flame retardance, fire resistance and other property
Packing photo for Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
FAQ For Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 V:
Q1:What is the Production Capacity for your factory?
About 80 kilometer every day
Q2: What is the Minimum Order Quantity For Single Core PVC Insulated Cable 450 /750 V?
MOQ: 10000 meters for small size, 5000 meters for middle size, 1000 meters for big size
Q3:What is the delivery time for these cables?
10~15 working days
Q4: What standards is the product complying with?
We can produce thousands of electric wires and power cables complying with different standards, such as: GB, JB , IEC, BS, AS/NZS, VDE, UL ETC.
- Q: I lost my Xbox power brick and was wondering if I could use a cable from my old ps3?
- of course not, they're made for a completely different system
- Q: Every time i unplug the power cable from my laptop the wireless connection stops working and i can't seem to fix it by changing the wireless power options any ideas?
- I am assuming that you are using windows, If you haven't done so already, right click on the battery on the right hand of your task bar and click on the power options. now, click on CHANGE PLAN SETTINGS Then click on CHANGE ADVANCED POWER SETTINGS a new window should pop up, look for wireless adaptor settings and select maximum performance, This could be your answer but then again I'm not sure what you have already attempted.
- Q: I am not sure of the reason but when i plugged in the power cable there was a crackling sound only for a second and then it stopped. I remember a similar occurennce when i had a loose electrical circuit would this have done any harm to the computer.
- You should always use a power outlet that has an on/off switch so that you can switch off the outlet prior to plugging into the device. Only after plugged in do you turn on the power outlet (always turn off the outlet prior to unplugging from the device). The crackling sound is electrical and can cause detrimental problems to a Pc, laptop or monitor (or other electrical product).
- Q: I wanted to buy this card: What power cables will it need? Thanks in advance
- You don't need any power cables. The board gets power from the mother board. You need a PCI-Express slot on your mother board. If you're asking about video cables to the monitor, it says in the listing... Interfaces 2 x DVI-I - 29 pin combined DVI , 1 x HDMI - 19 pin HDMI Type A , 2 x DisplayPort - Apple mini-DisplayPort You only need one of these unless you are running more than 1 monitor. I would look on your monitor and see what connections you have. (2) DVI-1 is common is older stuff, (1) HDMI is the newest technology and common for HDTV, (2) Apple ports for Apple enabled monitors.
- Q: The power supply in question is
- Yep they will come with a power cord
- Q: So I was trying to run wiring for a 220 outlet and I hit a lower leg with the metal cable snake, now a bunch of outlets loose power for a minute or two ever so often, 20 min give or take. What can be the cause? Only the top breaker tripped. How can this be repaired. Please help.
- Would I be right in thinking you sort of tripped on flexible metal conduit in which electric cables run and now the power is intermittent and trips the breaker? I would start by isolating the circuit so it is no longer live and checking the connections at each end of the cable run because any strain on the conduit could have tugged wires out of their terminals. I'd make sure that all the connections were tight and the wires properly anchored and also that each wire is in the correct terminal. I once made a mistake when replacing a socket outlet because the terminals in the new one were the exact opposite of the old one. Luckily, I found it straight away when I tested the circuit. If the connections all look good, I'd check the continuity along each of the cables. It is inconceivable that the cables inside the metal conduit were damaged as they should be continuous cable runs with no joins. The continuity test will tell you if any cable is no longer continuous, but I'd be very surprised as long as the original installation was done properly to code (or wiring regulations in the UK). Obviously, before you start checking the cables, you would unplug or disconnect everything that is connected to them. If the fault only happens when some sort of machine or appliance is connected, then it suggests the fault is with the appliance or machine and not the wiring. A 20 minute cycle of faults makes we wonder whether there is a fridge or a freezer connected the circuit. If so, I'd get it checked for faults and check that the power connection to it is correctly wired. I am not an electrician, just an experienced home owner, so please double check anything I've said. Good luck.
- Q: I bought a 9800 gtx card, and it needs 2 power cables connected to the power supply for it to work. It's a monster card. My power supply has one pci express power cable only. Will I need adapters to plug into my power supply?
- The adapter must have two of the four pin Molex connectors. It uses three of the wires, in the four pin Molex connector. (3 wires x 2=One 6 pin PCI-Express power connector)
- Q: Can I connect a single HDD and a DVD drive to the same SATA cable or will that draw too much power? I have 3 sata cables and a modular 850W PSU so I could use another cable if I needed to.
- Power cables YES Data cables YES *but not recommended. (you would require additional hardware.) Normally the 7 pin DATA cables are considered 1 to 1. BUT with some hardware its possible to change that. Power cables are dependent on your power supply being big enough - 850W certainly sounds big enough but you need to know what is being used, such as is it powering hungry graphics cards etc?
- Q: I am installing a sound system in my car straight from scratch. I have built the subwoofer enclosure but now I have run into a problem. The existing amplifier power cable is too short to reach my amp. I was wondering if any other cable could be used as a substitute to extend it just a few more inches or do I need to buy a whole new amp kit? Thanks
- You can get 12 gauge stranded wire in any length you want from Lowes or Home Depot. That will do fine for amplifiers requiring a 20 amp fuse. If you do splice the wires, then solder them and wrap them up with tape. Crimps will work OK for a few years but are not permanent.
- Q: I have a Netgear router and just now when I tried to plug the power cable back into the back of it, it would fit. I look more closely and it seems that the metal end of the power cable may be slightly bent. But I'm still confused because it's bent at the end of the metal, and even though the very tip of it isn't bent, that part still won't even slide into place a little. Could anyone help me in resolving this issue?
- If it is the correct adapter for the router and it fitted before, gently force it and it will comfortably fit eventually. There is probably a reason it doesn't fit now (it has been pulled out with some force) so I would suggest getting a new power adapter for it if the above does not work
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Single Core LSZH material Insulated Fire retardant Cable 450 /750 VBS7211 6491B
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m
- Supply Capability:
- 30000 m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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