Razor Wire In Galvanized And PVC Coated China Supplier High Quality Galvanized Razor Barbed Wire

Razor Wire In Galvanized And PVC Coated China Supplier High Quality Galvanized Razor Barbed Wire System 1

Razor Wire In Galvanized And PVC Coated China Supplier High Quality Galvanized Razor Barbed Wire

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 10 m.t.

Supply Capability:: 5000 m.t./month

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Specification

Material:

Galvanized Iron Wire

Cross Sectional Shape:

Round

Application:

Protectiong Mesh

Type:

razor wire coil

Wild in Width:

1.1M

Surface Treatment:

zinc galvanized

Metal Wire Drawing:

Hot Drawing

Status:

Hard State

Thickness:

Metal Thick Wire

Galvanized Technique:

Hot Dipped Galvanized,Electro Galvanized

We are a professional wire mesh fence factory for 20 years, which was established in 2001,coving 5000m2.We have employees more than 300 , we have setted up complete scientific management system and advanced quality test facilities. Our main mesh products are welded mesh fence, chain link fence and hexagonal wire mesh . wire products are galvanized wire,black annealed wire and barbed wire .Our main markets are North-America, Europe and Mid-East.
High Quality Razor Barbed Wire with Factory Price
Common specification:
1.Material: High quality steel wire.
2.Blade: Galvanized steel.
3.Process: Galvanized - stamping.
4.Model: BTO-22(Other model can be made).
5.Size: 133*1580
6.Mesh opening:22*28cm
7.Roll diameter size: 25cm,30cm,40cm,45cm,55cm,60cm, etc.

China Supplier High Quality Galvanized Razor Barbed Wire

Barbed Razor Wire
Outside Diameter	No.of Loops	Standard Length per Coil	Type	Notes
450mm	33	8M	CBT-65	Single coil
500mm	41	10M	CBT-65	Single coil
700mm	41	10M	CBT-65	Single coil
960mm	53	13M	CBT-65	Single coil
500mm	102	16M	BTO-10.15.22	Cross type
600mm	86	14M	BTO-10.15.22	Cross type
700mm	72	12M	BTO-10.15.22	Cross type
800mm	64	10M	BTO-10.15.22	Cross type
960mm	52	9M	BTO-10.15.22	Cross type

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：

①How about your Hot Dipped Galvanzied Razor Wire Galvanized Iron Wire Black Wire？

One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire mesh，is a large-scale professional UAE Market Electric Galvanised Wire BWG 20 0.7mm Hot Dipped Galvnised Wire factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world. Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements.

②What is your Technical Information of Hot Dipped Galvanzied Razor Wire Galvanized Iron Wire Black Wire?

1).Material: super carbon steel

2).Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3).Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4).Thick zinc-coating layer

5).Super in corrosion resistance

6).Firm coating layer

7).Custom size available

10 to 15g Zinc Coating and 35kg Tensile Strength Iron Wire Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

③How long can we receive the product after payment?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served。

Hot Dipped Galvanzied Razor Wire Galvanized Iron Wire Black Wire

Q: I have 16 gauge speaker wire, but i need a lower gauge. instead of spending money and buying a lower gauge can i double this wire up and have that make it a lower gauge? so i would have 2 negative and 2 positive wires going into the terminal.: 18 gauge wire is pretty much standard for speakers. The only reason for a bigger gauge cable would be for a subwoofer setup. The connectors are pretty good actually. Have you ever noticed that the more you mess with a wire the more you have to cut it, re-strip it, and re-connect it? The connectors will eliminate that potential problem.

Q: I have a carrier thermostat with red, green, yellow, white and blue wires. Bought a new honeywell, omly has red, green, yellow and white terminals. What do I do with the blue wire. Right now it is connected to rc with no jumper, but nothing works.: This is an educated guess, even though we don't know how the furnace is wired. In many cases, the blue wire is used for C (common). Tape off or snip off the end of the blue wire and don't use it. Put the red wire on the RC terminal. Jump RC to R or RH if you have heat. Connect the other wires to their corresponding terminals. If blue is common, there's a good chance you blew the fuse on the control board (if your air handler has one) and/or you fried the transformer. That is, if you tried turning on the A/C.

Q: Source 115V 20A breakerI have 12/2 wire and want to wire this:GFCI 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacleI have basic wiring skills, just need reassurance. Thanks.: Comment: I don't know why john said to use a 6 piece of wire and wire nut the blacks together. Why not use the screws provided for wiring through? Why go through the trouble of making a pigtail ? Edit; I stand corrected.

Q: I wanted to ask, im busy installing a new stereo headset for my car,when i replaced the old stereo with the new one, i used the wire harness from the old stereo and joint the wires to the back of new the stereo (which there is another black adapter that goes in the wire harness area on the the new stereo) i did this by connecting the wires from the stereo adapter to the wire harness that connects to the car, although the adapter that connects to the stereo has more wires than the wire harness that connects to the car,( i only connected the wires that were matching such as grey wire to grey wire, grey wire with black strip to grey wire with black strip, and so on, i obviously didn't connect the colours that didn't match to the wire harness wires, although i looked up online and apparently the yellow wire is a power wire, but i don't know where to connect it......if anyone could help, this would be greatly appreciated , i also wanted to ask, would this solve the problem if i buy a new wire harness? Thanks: What kind of car is it? That's important, especially if it's a foreign make because those wires are so weird colored. Typically, yellow or ornage is power, red is memory, and the purple, gray, white, green wires are for the speakers .Black or brown wires are ground. Any blue wires you might come across are mainly just auxiliary signal wires that go to an aftermarket amp and subwoofer setup. Unless you have something like that, those wires can be taped off and forgotten about. Also, when wiring an aftermarket radio to your car, you will need to purchase an adapter harness that plugs into the stock wiring of the car and the wires connect to the radio wire harness correspondingly. I suggest soldering all the necessary wires and sealing them with shrink tube. It's the most solid, most sure way of a good connection without the worry of shorts and disconnections.

Q: The output part of wire plastic and part of wire broken, and the connection lost sometimes, some taps used to wrap up but the connection is still not good.How to fix it permanently?: Get a new one right away, had the same problem and it was actually burning the wiring inside my computer

Q: I have 2 wires that go from the Solenoid to the wiring harness. But i don't know which wires go to where. One of the wires from the Solenoid it the remote switch and the other is the power for my whole interior. There are red, orange and black wires that come from the wiring harness. but i don't know which ones to use.: I would say you should have a wiring schematic to guide you. You could try searching on line for some free information or buy a shop manual published by Chevrolet. You could try one of the Haynes manuals, but sometimes they are not as complete as the shop manuals. You could also go to a local dealer and speak with someone in the Parts Dept. or speak with a mechanic. If you want to try it yourself, I would have someone hold the key in start position, and measure the voltage on those three wires on the wiring harness. Only one should have voltage when the key is in the start position. This wire has to go to the solenoid. That's the next thing to determine, which one. One is probably a ground and one goes to the coil in the solenoid. With an ohm meter, measure the resistance on these two wires. The one with the most resistance is probably the ground, and the other one is probably the coil. If you connect this wire to the wire we mentioned earlier, you will probably be OK. After this point, I don't think you could hurt anything. If you try it and it won't work, switch wires. Good luck.

Q: The wires I have are: 1 red starter cable, 1 tan wire, 1 ground wire to the engine block, 1 red wire to the battery, and 1 red wire that splits into the fuse and into the junction strip. Really need to know which wires go where on the solenoid.: Red starter wire goes on one of the big lugs, the other big lug gets the wire form the battery and the smaller red wire, the white wire should go on the small lug closest to the battery wire and the black should got to the other small lug. Once you you mount the solenoid on the engine you will be able to tell which side the starter wire and the battery wire are to be placed on the solenoid. The wire from the starter should be only long enough to reach the top lug or the bottom lug just because the way it has to be routed.

Q: plzzz let me knw tis !! GRADE 10 PHYSICS- importance of live wires neutral wires !!!!!!!!!!: In a typical power generation system for a town, city, state or country, the circuit consists of a generator, wires from the generator ('active' or 'live' wires), switches, loads (heaters, lights, motors, etc.), neutral wires and an earth return. Everything on the generator side of the load is live. Everything after the load is 'neutral'. The importance is that with the switch off, the 'neutral'carries no current, while the ?ctiveor 'live wires carry current at all times.

Q: On a 1985 Dodge D-250 there are two wires coming off of the starter the thicker off the two goes two the starter the smaller one has been cut up by the battery. I was told the truck was running last week and all they were doing to start it was touching it to the positive post with the other wire but when I do this the starter just clicks. I pulled the starter and had it tested and was told its good and I have power to the cab I.e. lights and all so were does this wire go and what do I need to do to start this thing: Sounds like it may have a temporarily weak battery. Hook it up to a charger overnight or get a jump off someone. If manual transmission, you could try a push start and just let the alternator charge the battery while you drive around.

Q: Hi, I'm extending my pc 5.1 sound system stereo cables. I have a M/F extension wire which I will cut to solder a seamless wire to the system. Problem is that in the system cable I have a white, green(or red) and bare wire. and ont he extension I have a black red and white. Which wire do I connect to which?thanks: I'n not sure I understand the problem. In my view if you have 3 wires -- ending in, let's say, three plugs -- and want an extension it doesn't matter what colour the wires are as long as you end up connecting the original wires to the same plugs. So if you have white, green and bare on the original cable, when you cut the cable you have white, green and bare on both halves. Use the white, black, red extension cable to connect the two halves. I'd suggest white white, green red, and bare to black at one end and the same at the other ... but it doesn't really matter. Hope that helps.

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