PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire
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1. Product Description:
PVC insulated wires and cables of 450/750V and below are mainly applied for hard wiring of electrical appliances, electric apparatus, instruments, telecommunication equipment, power lighting, and buildings with the rated AC voltage of 500V or DC 1000V. PVC insulated wires belong to the series of laying electric wires, which is mainly suitable for laying at the fixed places.
The rated voltage of the wires should equal to or higher than the rated voltage of the system when wires are used at AC system. If wires are used at DC system, the rated voltage of system should lower than 1.5 times as high as rated voltage of cable and wires.
2. Product Characteristic:
1, heat resistance performance: the XLPE has a very good heat resistance performance of the network.
2, insulation performance: XLPE maintained the original good insulation characteristics of PE, and the insulation resistance to further increase. The dielectric loss tangent is very small, and the temperature has little effect.
3, mechanical properties: because the intermolecular built a new chemical bond, XLPE hardness, stiffness, wear resistance and impact resistance were improved, which make up the PE is vulnerable to the shortcomings of environmental stress cracking.
4, resistance to chemical characteristics: XLPE has a strong acid and alkali resistance and oil resistance, the main product of the combustion of water and carbon dioxide, the environment is less harmful to meet the requirements of modern fire safety.
3.Specification：
Electric cable wire:
1; 450/750V, copper or aluminum core
2; ISO9001-2008,IEC, ASTM
3; factory direct sales
4;best service
Packaging Details: | Circles or drum ,or according to your request |
Delivery Detail: | As your request |
4. Reference Picture：
- Q: I have an old craftsman Powr Panl (yes spelled that way) and it has an extension cord on it that has 10 individual wires on the inside. There are 5 dull white ones, and then five that are: bright white, red, black, green, and brown. Any ideas? This is the original cord, and was hooked up in 1950 at one point. Any ideas?
- Standard colors for power cords these days are white (for neutral/return), black (for 'hot' - think bad guys in black hats, it's the wire that will zap you if holding onto the kitchen faucet when live and you touch it), and green (for ground). Note that the white wire is the return path that carries current while the green is usually connected to the case or chassis and should trip the circuit breaker if it begins to carry current. A guess? The name Powr Panl suggests that this is a power distribution panel with multiple outlets. It's possible the color coding was used to help track connections to ganged panels. Just a guess though. With perhaps more detail, a better informed guess could be made. What does the panel look like? How large are the wires? To what do they connect? Feel free to email for follow-up.
- Q: I have two side-by-side outlets. One does not work at all. I've checked all the connections and cannot get it to work.I noticed that the adjacent box has a black and white wire connected while the error box only had a red and white wire going to the box. Is this right? When I test the wires going into the box, there is no voltage whatsoever.
- The red is most likely serving as the 'hot' or black wire. If there is no voltage at the red wire, you need to trace the source and find out why.
- Q: RVV2 * 1.0 is a wire or a cable
- This model is soft wire, double core. The cross section is 1mm2. The conductor is copper, the insulation sheath is PVC material.
- Q: I don't really have much detail but my mum asked me to look it up so if you know what shes going on about give me an answerThanks in advance :D
- Is it possible she's looking for ampacity ratings? The link below lists the current-carrying capacity, or ampacity, of wire against diameter. In terms of current carrying, thicker is always better. In terms of cost, thinner is better. A household branch should be rated for at least 15 A. Appliances may use 20-30 A or more.
- Q: Hi, I am doing a sweep on my home and checking everything from structure to electrical,attic,etc.I found that I have maybe old knoband tube wiring.the home does have some upgraded romex outletsexisting.The funny looking wiring has what look like a white porcelain loooking gadjet that is round and has a nail sticking thru it and a piece of wire going into.The top knob just unscrews and acts as some sort of clamp,don't really know.Anyways,a wire has corroded(just my luck) and broke in to when I barely touch it and now some of my lights are not working.When the wires are touched back together the lights affected turn back on.Can I just retwist it together since there is a little slack and put a wire cap on it,or can I just pull out that line from whence it broke and add 14/2 romex or just a pigtail at the broke section? Some wiring in my home may be aluminum but copper color has that cloth around it and some has worn all the way off which I am thinking to wrap in electrical tape and not leave exposed? Thanks
- I would get a qualified electrical engineer to take a look because you can't see areas that are not exposed, and it sounds to me that your house might need rewiring for your own safety and also to meet regulations.
- Q: Can I spice into a near by electrical outlet to run electricty to my new range vent? Is it difficult? Seems like it would not be, but I am looking for picutures or easy steps and list of materials I will need.
- Yes you can but you have to be careful not to overload the circuit you are splicing into. Each circuit is on a specific sized breaker and will not carry more than the rating on the face of the breaker(i.e. 15, 20, etc.) Since you aren't an electrician you will have no way to check this. So instead, find the nearest power source. Make sure it is for 120 volts (I'll assume that is what your vent fan is) You can find this information on a data plate somewhere on the hood, it will usually list it as 120VAC or 120V. If this is what it says, then make sure the outlet you are going to splice into has 3 slots( 2 straight and 1 semi-round),these are your 120 Volt plugs, or if you use a light switch then use the wire on the top screw( this is usually the hot wire) The wiring colors will match (Black to black or Gold Screw, White to White or silver screw and copper or green to copper or green or to the green screw. Make sure the power is off when you do this!!!.Now keep in mind that if you are going to use an elctrical outlet that is on your kitchen counter top, it will be a GFCI, which means it is for the protection of people and will not handle the load of a motor, if the nearest plug has the test and reset switch on it you can use it but you need to attach your wires to the top set of screws by a pigtail( which is a small piece of wire that has one end under the screw terminal and the other end will connect to both of the wires in the box you are using by wire nut. i.e. the wire that was on the plug and the wire going to the vent) Hope all of this makes sense. If you have any doubts, or think you might need assistance doing the job, you are better to get a licensed contractor to help you. Any questions e-mail me and I'll try to help. Good Luck and be careful!!!
- Q: After taking off the old one, I noticed there are 3 different wires coming into the bracket. One looks like it goes to an outlet, or the breaker. One goes to the switch, and one goes in the direction of the kitchen.There is a single black that was connected to the fan, and that was it. All others were capped off. Now two blacks and a white were pigtailed with each other, while the other two white were pigtailed together. My question is: How do I install the fan?And why are these wires all over?The house was built in the 70s if it helps.
- I believe you have a lighting circuit that is coming into the box and leaving the box. The other cable is going to the switch. First, it is best to takes notes as you take something apart. The two blacks with the white is your hot, with the white going to the switch. This is called suicide switching. The other two whites are the neutral. Attach the black and red wires from the fan to the black wire that is by itself. This should be paired with the white wire that is spliced with the blacks. This is your switch leg. Attach the white from the fan with the other whites. Make sure all your connections are tight.
- Q: I am hooking up a 30 amp rv outlet to connect my trailer to for electric service. I have to use a 10/3 with ground wire. I have black, red, white and bare. I use the white for common, the blacke for hot. The question I have is, of the red and bare wire which one goes to the ground connection on the outlet and which one goes to ground in the outlet box and service panel. I have no problem getting it to be safe, I just do not know which one is used for ground at the plug when there are four wires and one is red, not green. Thanks
- The 10/3 you have is colour coded for 220VAC service. Also red, black, white wires tend to be used for 110VAC 3-way switching circuits, this kind of as lighting. For 220VAC, generally the crimson is hot, the black is hot, the white is neutral and the bare is ground. For switching circuits, the black is hot, the crimson is switched hot, the white is neutral, the bare is ground. If you tend to be wanting 110VAC, I woud get 10/3 wire that is colour coded for 110VAC, black, white, eco-friendly and bare. This will eliminate each errors. You are able to use each colors you want as lengthy as you know what they tend to be and exactly where they go electrically. Use the black for hot, the white for neutral, the bare for floor and cap-off the red. If your outlet is 3 pronged and has a floor screw, you are able to use the crimson for the floor prong (red substituting the for the eco-friendly wire) , and the bare for the floor screw. If there is no floor screw, eliminate the bare wire. If you modify the colors, becareful simply because it will not be to each code.
- Q: I have NO way to hook up electric to a whirlpool bath in 2nd floor (electric panel is in basement in opposite side of house) was planning to go out through attic then run line outside.to then come back into panel. What is the best way to protect wiring?. alsois it best to bury this line or make it so it can be clearly seen?
- If you wish to ever sell you home in the future, you will need to have that electrical work on file in the county in which the the house is located. The county permit office will provide you with the requirements/codes that you have to follow. Since you have questions about this type of work, I'd strongly suggest that you contact a licensed electrician.
- Q: i want to wire a single phase 230v 22amp air compressor will # 10 wire work or should i use #8 it is about 120 feet from main panel and what amp breaker should i use?
- With the distance you are from the power panel, it would not hurt the system to use the larger #8 wire and a #10 ground and the 30 amp breaker. The inrush current will be enough to lug the motor down when starting with a 10 wire. This will damage the motor over the long term.
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PVC Insulated and Sheathed Building Electric Cable Wire
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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