• Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire System 1
  • Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire System 2
Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire

Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 m.t.
Supply Capability:
1000 m.t./month

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1.Product Introduction:

The high quality oxygen-free copper wire produced by our company adopts imported CATH-1 series of electrolytic copper in high purity, whose copper content is higher than 99.996%. We apply the upward-pulling technology in the protection of inert gas, and ensure the oxygen content of copper bar is lower than 8ppm. Through the hot-working process in vacuum, the oxygen-free copper bar becomes more uniform and dense in structure, and better in its inner quality. Through continuous pulling and pushing process to the 3mm copper bar by equal diameter wheel, the flexibility and circle performance are ganranteed, which enables us to supply high quality ingots for the next-process customers.


2.Product Characteristic:

(1)Adopting Φ8mm high-quality oxygen-free copper wire ingots as raw material.

(2)Using equal diameter wheel to pulling and pushing to ganrantee low loss of the wire material.

(3)Adopting the micrometer slide pulling process, and the outgoing-line block is spinning block, which improves the circle performance of copper wire.

(4)The take-up tension can be automatically regulated, and the Annealing voltage follow the line-pulling speed automatically which lead uniform annealing.

(5)Good surface finish of wire material, good flexibility and ductility, and the elongation is greater than 35%.

(6)Convenience in transportation, easy line-setting process, used for the high speed production of double-zero lacquer covered flat wire.


3.Image of Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire: 

Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire


4.Technical parameters of Polyurethane UL Approved Round Copper Aluminum Magnesium Alloy Wire: 

Aluminum-magnesium alloy wire



Type specification(mm)

Tensile strength

Breaking elongation (%)

Density

20°C resistivity(Ωmm/m)

Tolerance

(Mpa)

(kg/dm)

0.18

≥220

≥9

2.68≤d≤2.72

≤0.054

±0.005

0.16

≥220

≥8

2.68≤d≤2.72

≤0.054

±0.004

0.15

≥220

≥7

2.68≤d≤2.72

≤0.054

±0.004


5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely: 

①How about your Warranty?

 Warranty: 1-Year for the whole light. Warranty is based on correct storage, installation, using and maintenanc

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At   the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pecific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers.Commonly 7 to 10 working days can be served.



Q: voltage regulater wires get hot when bike runs 86 yamaha v max. why do they do this?
If the wire connectors at the regulator are corroded or not making a good connection, that can cause the wires to get hot. On my Kaw, I ended up having to remove the connectors and solder the ends together to keep them from getting hot enough to melt the plastic surrounding the connectors.
Q: What Spark Plugs and Wires would optimize my MPG? 2000 Bonneville SSEI
any plugs + wires will help the mpg a bit if the plugs are gapped correctly before installation
Q: I plugged in my new Pioneer DEH-P6500it worked for a little bit until i moved it around a littlethe speakers started to go out but the subs still sounded finei messed around with it and found the wire responsible for it allits a red wireit says AAC or somethingif i messed with the copper twist the speakers would come in and outi stripped the wire a little and put it back together but now the head unit wont even turn onand im also left with like 2 inches of red wireis my only option to get a new pioneer wire harness?what is the problem?the red wire i think supplies the power to the whole head unit because when its not connected, the whole thing turns onbut only the speakers go on and off when i messed with itbut it wont turn on anymore
The red wire is the ignition wire. There are two wires that supply power to your head unit. One is the yellow wire which is a constant source of power. This keeps all your settings on the radio and the clock. The red wire is used to switch on your head unit. When you turn on your car the wire gets power and turns your head unit on. First, like said before, make sure the wire is getting power by checking fuses. There should be one in the head unit and one in your car's fuse panel. If that is not it then you will want to see if the wire is split somewhere. An easy way to check if the wire is getting power is if you have a DMM (digital multimeter). Then just check if there is voltage in the wire. Your car must be on to check this though. Good Luck!!! Edit: DMMs are cheap, you can get one for around $15. They have even cheaper ones if you get it at Harbor Freight.
Q: I have some salvaged wire from a computer power supply and would like to know it's break-down voltage rating. Most hookup wire is rated at 600 volts but unfortunately, all computer stuff is now made in China. The repair job of a vintage piece of equipment requires wire that can withstand 300 VAC.
Computer power supply cables do not deliver anything like 300 volts, so I would say no, don't risk it.
Q: okay my apt building was built in 1975 I am changing my light fixture new from home depot and the ground wire, the black and white wire are basic on the new fixture. I am looking in the case box in my ceiling all I see is a black wire attached to red, and a yellow wire attached to a white wire which then attaches to another two white wires (then gos go's up behind the casing) I am not sure which is the ground here. There is a copper looking wire that is thick, thick it just isnt as malleable as the new ground wire that is on my new light fixture. It seems very difficult to maneuver.. Could this be my ground from the ceiling. It was attached to the mount of the old fixture my a screw.
All wiring is different but the basics remain the same. Before attempting anything please turn off the power. If I have the good picture in my head, there are extension wires added to the black and white this would be done if the wire run though the wall was too short and needed a little extra to get wired properly to a fixture. If I look at the bad picture in my head you have a jump cable attached which is running to a second outlet or light fixture. If the extra wires go back into the ceiling leading somewhere else then it is probably running to a different fixture and this isn't the best way to run electrical. It could potentially overload your circuit. If it has been working for 40 years without a problem you are probably ok, so long as the fixture you're adding is within the same category as the fixture you're removing. The thick copper wire will be your ground wire and should be attached to the box, and to the outlet itself with screws. Good luck with that fixture.
Q: Okay, i put a cd player in my Integra wrong in the first place an i blew my headlights, dash lights, and taillights. Are there separate wiring harness/ for the motor and interior? I have a B-series, I'm looking at a B-series Wiring Harness online an is that what i need? Or is there a separate interior wiring harness i need to make my lights work again? Help would be appreciated.
did okorder /
Q: The output part of wire plastic and part of wire broken, and the connection lost sometimes, some taps used to wrap up but the connection is still not good.How to fix it permanently?
Get a new one right away, had the same problem and it was actually burning the wiring inside my computer
Q: Are toast - previous owner did a bad amp install on them and there is basically no wire left to use for mine.Is it possible to run a radio power wire/remote wire from the fuse panel back to the radio? If so can i just shove the wire in the fuse holder then stick the fuse back in on top of it?((Fuse 8 is the mustangs radio fuse))
Never wire anything into your fuse box, that will defeat the purpose of having it. You will have to do what's called a hard wire. You will need to run all new wires, which is the safest way to do it, with all proper fusing. A constant +12, a switched +12 and a ground is all you need for the radio to work, and all new speaker wires. If you can find one in a junkyard, you might be able to find a new harness to repair the OEM one, and that would really help you out. Good luck!
Q: ok i have 3 questions...i have a oldsmobile cutlas supreme and i have a 0 gauge power wire that is 17 feet is that long enough???? and i have 0 gauge ground that is 17 feet is that long enough....and about the speaker wire..i have 8 gauge speaker wire that is 25 feet..is this a good setup.make sure u answer all these questions please thank you..
Power wire only has to be long enough to get from the battery to the amp with an inline fuse close to the battery. (within 18) Ground wire should be no longer than 2feet from the amp to chasis. 8 gauge is good but may be overkill for some speakers. If your speaker doesnt call for 8 gauge wire, then use a smaller gauge. If your speaker does need 8gauge wire, make sure the amp can accept this size
Q: This is the typical Physics problem with the wire and boom connected to a wall with a mass hanging on the end of the wire.Does the tension in the wire increase or decrease when the wire is connected higher on the wall (meaning the angle between the wire and the boom increases).
Assuming the boom is free to pivot at the wall, and a massless wire, the tension in the wire decreases as the attachment point is moved further up the wall away from the boom. There is a constant vertical force (the weight of the boom and the mass attached to its end) that is a constant component of the tension in the wire. The tension must increase to maintain this constant upward force as the wire approaches the pivot point, because the vertical component of tension is the tension multiplied by the sine of the angle between the wire and the boom. As the angle approaches zero, the tension required to support the boom approaches infinity. Conversely, as you move the end of the wire higher up on the wall, the tension decreases, approaching the combined weight of the boom and the suspended mass as the wire approaches being parallel with the wall. So imagine a sign attached to the side of a skyscraper at street level supported by a wire extending to the top of the building. There will be almost no horizontal component to the tension in the wire and the vertical component will just be the sum of the weight of the wire, the boom, and the attached mass.

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