• Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire System 1
  • Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire System 2
  • Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire System 3
Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire

Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 kg
Supply Capability:
100000 kg/month

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1. Product Description:

Cooper – clad aluminum wire is formed by the aluminum-cored wire and the copper layer closely covered outside, at the same time, it has the advantage of good electrical conductivity of copper and light weight of aluminum, it is the preferred material of the conductors in the coaxial cable and the electrical wires and cables in the electrical equipment.

Widely used in electrical tools, ballasts, automotive electronics, refrigerator and air conditioner compressor motors, television sets, electric stove, microwave ovens, various transformers, and other kinds of electronic coil motors, electrical appliances, electronic component ,instrument windings ,communication equipment ,step motors , Refrigerator rating compressors, Ballast , Home appliance product. High heat-resistant and electrical.

 

2. Product Characteristic:

(a) Good conductivity of copper,light weight of aluminum

(b) High signal transmission property

(c) Direct soldering, good colorability , high adhesiveness

(d)thermal stability . High thermal endurance. High temperature softening breakdown

(h)HF-resistance, solvent resistance and chemical property resistance to winding damage

3.Specification

Copper Volume

Copper in volume

Copper in mass %

Density % (g/cm3)

Max. DC resistivity Ω.mm2/m(200c)

Tensile strength

Enlongation

CCA-10%

8~<13

27

3.32

0.02733

150MP

≥10%

CCA-15%

13-17

37

3.63

0.252-0.026

160MP

≥11%

 

4. Reference Picture

Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire

Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire

Physical Coating CopperClad Aluminum Wire

Q: Currently I have the two wires no ground wire and some two wire with ground outlets (upgrade some time before). Is it allowed in the NEC to run a separate ground wire from one of the two wire with ground outlet to the two wire outlet without changing the old wires?
better to spend eight dollars and replace it with a GFCI outlet. It will protect every outlet downstream of it if you can determine which one is first. use the labels on all protected outlets.
Q: A wire is 1.5 m ong and has a diameter of 1.5 mm. The stretch modulus of the wire is 6.2 x 10^10 n/m^2. If a force of 400 N is applied to end of the wire, then the increase in length of wire is??please help, thanks
The stretching of wire by longitudinal force: If F force applied across the crosectional area A of wire of radius r and lenght L then the wire elaogates in the dirextion of force Stress P = F / A A = pi* r^2 = (1.5/2)*10^-3 = 7.5 *10^-4 m^2 strain produced = dL / L = increase in length / original L Young's modulus or elastic (stretch) modulus for the maretial, within elastic limits, Y = stress/strain strain = stress / Y dL = F * L / A * Y = F * L / pi (r^2) * Y dL = 400* 1.5 / 3.14 (7.5 *10^-4)^2 * 6.2*10^10) meter dL = 0.005479 * meter dL = 5.479 millimeters increase in length
Q: thats how my after market stereo is hooked up..i just got a system and was wondering if i join the remote wire to the accessory would it be ok? even if the accessory is already joined with the illumination
You need to first disconnect the accesory wire on the aftermarket radio from the illumination wire from the car harness if you are using hose connection to turn on the radio. You need to connect the accesory wire from the aftermarket radio to the accesory wire from the car radio harness, if you are using a wire harness then it would be the red wire and if the factory radio harness is cut then u'll need a test light to locate the accesory wire. On the aftermarket radio harness/plug locate the blue/white wire that's where u will need to connect the remote wire to, in order to turn your amp on and off. Don't connect the remote wire to the illumination wire from the car, or the radio harness.
Q: when we connect the amp wire to the car battery we first remove the negative side then connect the amp wire to the negative side and reconnect the negative battery wire thing. is this correct?
Absolutely not! The amp power wire goes to battery POSITIVE. The amp ground should be as close to the amp as possible, and be securely screwed to bare metal on the vehicle frame or chassis. The battery negative should be removed while your are making the connections. The correct sequence is as follows: 1) Remove battery negative terminal. 2) Locate and mount the amp. Connect ground terminal to bare metal within 18-24 of the amp using the same gauge wire as the power wire. 3) Run power wire from battery positive to the amp power terminal. DO NOT install the fuse yet. 4) Connect remote wire, RCA inputs, and speaker and/or subwoofers. 5) Check that all terminals are tight and secure and that no strands of wire from one terminal are contacting adjacent wires or terminals. 6) Install the fuse in the positive wire. 7) Reconnect the negative battery terminal. The amp will not drain your battery when the vehicle is off. If the wiring is correct and the remote wire from your head unit operates properly, the amp will only turn on when the head unit is turned on.
Q: What does the wire do for braces? What happens if you pull it out and everything else it ok?
The wire in the braces is what does the trick .... without the wire braces are just metal objects on your teeth doing nothing! The wire that is placed in the grooves of the braces gently pull your teeth into the desired position!!!
Q: Not the wire from RadioShack, but the really thin stuff used in modded circuit boards, logic circuits, low power circuits, etc.
Use telephone cable,inside has more than 20 pieces of single wire. Or using ethernet cable,inside has 8 pieces of single wire.
Q: Help me, please! I have an old air conditioning system...made in 1985, and the condenser fan went out. Long story short, I bought a new fan and I don't know how to hook it up. The old fan had 4 wires coming out of it: purple, black, green, and brown. The green is the ground and the brown and the purple went to the capacitor, black to power. Then there were two smaller black wires attached to the capacitor and they lead out to other components. My new fan has a green wire, a white wire, a black wire, a brown wire and a brown and white striped wire. My problem is this: I don't know where to attach the white wire or what to do with the two smaller black wires that were attached to the old capacitor. I was told by the gentleman who sold me the fan that I splice the white wire to purple wire - then do I hook that to the capacitor? What do I do with the two smaller black wires that lead out to other components??? (Cap them off???) I am confused and need some advice!
You need to check the wiring diagram that came with the motor. It will show you what wires to hook where. The capacitor is supposed to be hooked into the starting windings of the fan to kick start it initally, then it drops out of the circuit, and the run windings take over. They probably cross-matched a motor, so the same hookups aren't an option, so you will have to go back to the place, take a drawing of what the wires coming out to the old motor are, and what the new wires to your motor are, and have them connect the dots so to speak to give you a new wiring diagram.
Q: How do electric and other companies decide on strung wires in consideration of snowfall?
There is usually a strength member wire that is incorporated into the cables that has no other purpose than support.
Q: what is the best speaker wire for some subwoofers that are rated between 500rms watts to 750rms watts
well loxotox is right if you are asking about power wire but for SPEAKER wire i would get no less than 12 guage speaker wire and in that case the bigger the better
Q: I have two white wires left...one is a speaker wire and the other is the constant 12v wire and I don't know which is which. They are the same thickness so unless one of you guys know I'm pretty much screwed here. Also, I have a black ground wire sticking out of the wiring harness and the ground wire from my stereo harness doesn't look like they should attach to each other. This is my first install and I've got everything else hooked up. Just need some pointers.
1997 Geo Tracker Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: White/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Yellow Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Red/Green Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Blue Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Red Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Green/Black Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Black what you need is a multi meter or something to test for current you could get a 12v light bulb hook to ground then try each white wire on a 12 light buld the end two meral contacts seperated by a small plastic area ground from tracker to one metal area positive or white to the other metal area dont let the wires touch which ever white wire cause light to go on is 12v you may have to have key turned over for power to flow

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