• Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire System 1
  • Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire System 2
Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire

Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m
Supply Capability:
50000 m/month

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1. Application: Electric power, lighting and internal wiring

 

2. Structure drawing:

Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire

 

3. Specification Data(Standard: GB/T 5023.3, IEC 60227-3):

 

Product Code

Nominal cross-sectional
area of conductor

Class of conductor

Thickness of insulation
Specified value

Mean overall diameter

Lower limit

Upper limit

mm2

mm

mm

mm

HY-GB-RV-1C1.5

1X1.5

5

0.7

2.8

3.4

HY-GB-RV-1C2.5

1X2.5

5

0.8

3.4

4.1

HY-GB-RV-1C4.0

1X4.0

5

0.8

3.9

4.8

HY-GB-RV-1C6.0

1X6.0

5

0.8

4.4

5.3

HY-GB-RV-1C10

1X10

5

1.0

5.7

6.8

HY-GB-RV-1C16

1X16

5

1.0

6.7

8.1

HY-GB-RV-1C25

1X25

5

1.2

8.4

10.2

HY-GB-RV-1C35

1X35

5

1.2

9.7

11.7

HY-GB-RV-1C50

1X50

5

1.4

11.5

13.9

HY-GB-RV-1C70

1X70

5

1.4

13.2

16.0

HY-GB-RV-1C95

1X95

5

1.6

15.1

18.2

HY-GB-RV-1C120

1X120

5

1.6

16.7

20.2

HY-GB-RV-1C150

1X150

5

1.8

18.6

22.5

HY-GB-RV-1C185

1X185

5

2.0

20.6

24.9

HY-GB-RV-1C240

1X400

5

2.2

23.5

28.4

 

4. Operating Characteristics:

A. Working Temperature: 0oC ~ 70oC

B. Min. Bending Radius: 4D(O.D. less than 25mm), 6D(O.D. more than and including 25mm)

Multi Size PVC Insulated Flexible Cable Single Stranded Electric Copper Wire

Q: My computer has ran fine for almost 6 to 7 months and just recently shutdown, and when I boot it back up, I get a red message and a beeping noise saying quot;The power cable is not connected to the video card. Please refer to the Getting Started guide for information on proper hardware instillationquot;. I thought it was a heat problem with the computer so I shut it down and left it for a while to cool down, but I still got that message.
What part of The power cable is not connected to the video card do you not understand? You need to open your computer and connect the power cable to your video card. It has somehow become disconnected.
Q: My power supply has one cable with 3 sata connectors on it. Can I connect my disc drive and hard drive on the one cable? My PSU also has a cable with 3 four pin molex connectors on it and my case has 3 fans. Can I connect all my fans to that one cable with all the molex connectors on it?
Yes to both questions. It doesn't matter whether you're connecting only harddrives to that cable or only diskdrives (aside from the fact that these are usually located a little apart from each other.) You can combine both and they will work. As for fans... If they have the molex connectors rather than standard 3-pin fan connectors, you can connect them for sure. Depending on what power supply you have, you'll probably have anywhere from 18-30amp on your 12v molex rail. Harddrives will take under 2amp, and depending on what fans you have, they'll use anywhere 0.5-3amp, so even if you have 3 extremely powerful fans drawing 3amp each (3 x 3amp = 9amp), you can safely connect 6 of such monster fans to that 12v molex rail. To be honest, I haven't met too many of such fans - most standard 120mm fans, even with leds, will use no more than 1.5amp. 80mm fans non-led fans will use about 0.3-0.5 amp. If you have a very powerful psu with 30amp on 12v rail and hundred of 80mm fans, in theory you can run all of them. In practice, I'd like to see that :)
Q: Hello,I recently bought a kotatsu and I really need some help. The power cable is of course Japanese... And I need some type of converter.On the part of the cable that plugs into the radiotaor it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 250VOn the end that plugs into the wall it says:PSE (It's in some square box)JET MR7A 125VI''m not sure if a simple small converter to let me put the Japanese cable into my wall is enough, I think I need something extra to make sure nothing goes into flames.Inside the Japanese instruction manual I found some info ... However, I'm not really sure if it is related to the power supply or not...AC100V 50-60Hz400W3.1 (Probably the length of the cable) 1.3 (Same here I think)140Wh 60 Wh55C 37CPlease help me, what should I get to be able to use the cable in Europe. Any links at all will be helpful...Thanks.
Don't worry too much about what the cord says. Worry about the power requirements on the appliance label, and making sure you are feeding it with the voltage required, with a capacity within the range. In your instance, you will need a converter transformer that converts your outlet voltage to 100V, and has 550 or larger watt capacity.
Q: I have an ASUS G1SN-X1 and my laptop was working normally while plugged in. Then all of a sudden it stopped charging the battery. After it stopped charging the laptop was running off the remaining battery power. The battery eventually runs out of juice but now i can't turn on my laptop because the power cord won't charge even though the power indicator light is on on the power cord supply. I even took out the battery and just left it plugged in but still wouldn't turn on. Any suggestions on what the problem could be and how to solve it?
it is that your battery isn't longer wanting to settle for the electrical powered energy for that's wiped out, which my a be somewhat pricy to replace the battery as I easily have had a similar concern. i will additionally be that the chargers are to previous or dont have an vehicle shrink of which could be inflicting the severe warmth. additionally, while you're constintly leaving your laptop left charging, it could harm your battery and the charger. ultimately, the plug which works into your computing gadget to cost it is going to a hollow in it, on the computing gadget the place the charger may well be inserted, the could be a pin, if it is harm it is inflicting the shortcoming of conectivety of electric energy.
Q: everything was working great! and then i blew the main fuse! i replaced it everything was fine after that but then out of nowhere i only have power in half of the power cable connected to the amp!! What can i do??
Not sure what power in half the power cable means. Are you saying (for example) you have a 6 foot power cable coming off the battery to the amp and only 3 feet has power and the other 3 feet doesn't? I would isolate the power wire from start to finish. I would bypass the power wire by running an external wire from the battery terminal to the amp. Basically, disconnect the old power wire from the battery (or source of power) and amp. Then run a temporary wire from the battery to the amp. If everything works then something is wrong with the original power wire.
Q: So I was trying to run wiring for a 220 outlet and I hit a lower leg with the metal cable snake, now a bunch of outlets loose power for a minute or two ever so often, 20 min give or take. What can be the cause? Only the top breaker tripped. How can this be repaired. Please help.
Would I be right in thinking you sort of tripped on flexible metal conduit in which electric cables run and now the power is intermittent and trips the breaker? I would start by isolating the circuit so it is no longer live and checking the connections at each end of the cable run because any strain on the conduit could have tugged wires out of their terminals. I'd make sure that all the connections were tight and the wires properly anchored and also that each wire is in the correct terminal. I once made a mistake when replacing a socket outlet because the terminals in the new one were the exact opposite of the old one. Luckily, I found it straight away when I tested the circuit. If the connections all look good, I'd check the continuity along each of the cables. It is inconceivable that the cables inside the metal conduit were damaged as they should be continuous cable runs with no joins. The continuity test will tell you if any cable is no longer continuous, but I'd be very surprised as long as the original installation was done properly to code (or wiring regulations in the UK). Obviously, before you start checking the cables, you would unplug or disconnect everything that is connected to them. If the fault only happens when some sort of machine or appliance is connected, then it suggests the fault is with the appliance or machine and not the wiring. A 20 minute cycle of faults makes we wonder whether there is a fridge or a freezer connected the circuit. If so, I'd get it checked for faults and check that the power connection to it is correctly wired. I am not an electrician, just an experienced home owner, so please double check anything I've said. Good luck.
Q: Will the wire and cable industry belong to the power industry? The
4 core 185 square millimeters plus 1 core 95 square millimeters of cable three
Q: Acoustic Audio 10 inch home theatre powered subwoofer use speaker wire or subwoofer cable?
Use a long RCA cable. If you use speaker wire - you have to run wires from the left/right outputs to the sub, then more wire from the sub to the left/right speakers. Then you have to tell your receiver your left/right speakers are LARGE and you do not have a sub to get things to work. A single long RCA cable is simpler. You can even make your own with pre-terminated CATV coax and some F-to-RCA-Male adapters from Radio Shack. Subwoofer signals work fine and do not need any kind of higher end RCA cable.
Q: Ever time I try screwing in my power cable sparks fly.My amp has no off switch.and my car is turned off.wtf?Help me out/
disconnect the battery dumbass
Q: Only the ground cable is green, the two other cables are gray and I noticed that one is with stripes the other is not... The maker is Smart Choice. - there is more clue, one cable end is coded with a letter Z , other W , than G .... the G is probably the ground ( green ) . I need to know which one will connect to the black wire and which to the white one. Please help. Thank you
The neutral or grounded conductor will be the one with the stripe or ridge on it. This will connect to the white wire or neutral connection on the dishwasher. You can follow it down and see that it will be the wider of the two power prongs. Green or bare will be for equipment grounding and will connect to the frame of the dishwasher. Usually this is a green screw.

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