• Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated Building Wire 450/750V System 1
  • Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated Building Wire 450/750V System 2
Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated Building Wire 450/750V

Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated Building Wire 450/750V

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
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Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated Building Wire 450/750V

Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)

    Insulation Material: PVCModel Number: BV

  • Type: Low Voltage

  • Application: Construction

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Jacket: Bare

  • International Standard: IEC 60502,AS,BS,CE,CSA,DIN,ISO,NFC,SGS,ASTM,GOST,or as requested

  • Type: Single Core

  • Rated Voltage: 450/750V

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Wooden drums or as customers' demand
Delivery Detail:7-30 days or as customers' demand

Specifications

building Wire
1.ISO CCC certificate
2.13 years professional experience
3.Factory price.
4.Rated voltage: 450/750

450/750V Flexible Stranded Copper PVC Insulated building Wire  

 

Application

 

This product is suitable for fixed laying in power plant with AC.

 

Product Standard

 

GB/T5023-2008

JB8734-1998.

 

 Datas and Information

Nominal
sectional area
mm2
Conductor
No/Dia.
mm
Nominal
Insulated thick
mm
Max overall
Dia.
mm
Condcutor
Resistance at
20
Min insulated
resistance at
70MΩ/km
Weight
Kg/km
CuAlCuAl
1.51/1.380.73.312.1-0.01119.2-
1.57/0.520.73.512.1-0.01020.6-
2.51/1.780.83.97.4111.80.01030.815.0
41/2.250.84.44.617.390.008545.521.0
61/2.760.84.93.084.910.007065.029.0
107/1.351.07.01.833.080.0065110.052.0
167/1.701.08.01.151.910.0050170.070.0
257/2.141.210.00.7271.200.0050270.0110.0
357/2.521.211.50.5240.8680.0040364.0150.0
5019/1.781.413.00.3870.6410.0045500.0200.0
7019/2.141.415.00.2680.4430.0035688.0269.0
9519/2.521.617.50.1930.3200.0035953.0360.0
12037/2.031.619.00.1530.2530.00321168.0449.0
15037/2.251.821.00.1240.2060.00321466.0551.0
18537/2.522.032.50.0990.1640.00321808.0668.0

 

 

Flexible wire

 

 

Nominal
sectional area
mm2
Conductor
No/Dia.
mm
Nominal
Insulated thick
mm
Max overall
Dia.
mm
Condcutor
Resistance at
20
Min insulated
resistance at
70MΩ/km
Weight
Kg/km
2.59/0.410.84.27.410.01133.0
419/0.520.84.84.610.00948.0
619/0.640.85.63.080.008468.0
1049/0.521.07.61.830.0072115.0
1649/0.641.08.81.150.0062176.0
2598/0.581.211.00.7270.0058272.0
35133/0.581.212.50.5240.0052384.0
50133/0.681.416.50.3870.0051510.0
70189/0.681.416.50.2680.0045714.0
95259/0.681.19.50.1390.0035965.0
120259/0.761.822.00.1530.00321210.0
150259/0.851.825.00.1240.0032

 

Picture

 

Q: explain?thank you veeery much :)
Yep, about 90% of electrical power goes into heating (the heater is constructed for that, with high resistance wiring to get heat). The rest goes into visible light (glowing). For a light bulb electricity it is NOT efficient, about 90% is heat, which you do not want in that case, you just want the light
Q: I was sitting in my living room, when I heard a loud POP. A couple minutes later, I went to the refrigerator and seen that it wasn't working (no power). I checked the fuse box, and there is a fuse blown. I tried to reset it, but it just makes a loud pop noise, and flips. It will not reset. There is nothing plugged into those outlets other than the refrigerator and our water dispenser machine. These same two things have been plugged in for years, without any issues. Is this most likely a short somewhere in the wiring?
A fuse blows for a reason. Either there is a short circuit, or something in the circuit is drawing too much power. I would start by unplugging EVERYTHING in that circuit. Replace the fuse. If it blows immediately, then there's a problem with the wiring. That may be a good time to call an electrician. If the new fuse doesn't blow with nothing plugged in, start plugging your appliances back in, one at a time. It's possible that all the appliances are still working, but one is drawing more current than it's supposed to. Try plugging them into a different circuit using a heavy duty extension cord. You should be able to find the culprit that way.
Q: Hydropower transformation with a few square of the wire is good? Recommend a good brand?
The middle of the partition with the inside there may be weak electrical cable, and strong electric cable separate.
Q: I have an electrical switch that was faulty so I'm in the process of replacing it. I have a garage door opener that is plugged into an outlet on the garage ceiling that needs power all the time and a light that needs to be on a switch, on the same circuit. This doesn't seem possible to me but it's how it was wired previously. Unfortunately, I've already tossed the old switch thinking, “Oh, I'll just figure it out”. I have a tan wire, a white wire, and a black wire available I also have a 2-way and 3-way switch available.
Don't know where you live (country) but in N.A. the white will be common and the tan(sometimes red) and black are power the white will go to both the light and the receptacle-whatever color (tan or black) is in the receptacle will be constant power-and the other should come from the switch to the light
Q: I was just wondering is all electrical high voltage lines including low voltage is isolated to prevent electrical shock.
Wiring is normally insulated. If you have ever seen old wire with cracks in the insulation please know that it is not safe to use or handle and should be replaced or repaired. Be careful in handling any wire especially if it has current going through it. It could have a faulty spot and you could get a shock. It doesn't take much to crack the insulation or wear a bare spot on some wires. Usually if the insulation is hard or brittle the wire has been over heated and the insulation may not be very good. It may break off of the wire and expose the wire. Never touch the bare wires or exposed connections on a car battery. And be very careful not to touch bare electrical wires in general.
Q: Hi, I am doing a sweep on my home and checking everything from structure to electrical,attic,etc.I found that I have maybe old knoband tube wiring.the home does have some upgraded romex outletsexisting.The funny looking wiring has what look like a white porcelain loooking gadjet that is round and has a nail sticking thru it and a piece of wire going into.The top knob just unscrews and acts as some sort of clamp,don't really know.Anyways,a wire has corroded(just my luck) and broke in to when I barely touch it and now some of my lights are not working.When the wires are touched back together the lights affected turn back on.Can I just retwist it together since there is a little slack and put a wire cap on it,or can I just pull out that line from whence it broke and add 14/2 romex or just a pigtail at the broke section? Some wiring in my home may be aluminum but copper color has that cloth around it and some has worn all the way off which I am thinking to wrap in electrical tape and not leave exposed? Thanks
Ken_ray, you, of course, are free to do as you please about your own property, as long as you don't get the gov't. involved, but I live in a house built in 1904 and it has quite a bit of ball and tube wiring that we use every day. As long as you don't overload those circuits, they will, most likely, serve you well for many years to come. However, if you're like a large portion of folks nowadays, who have to have every possible whistle and bell on every appliance they can find to add more and more load to our power supplies, then you might want to consider a complete upgrade, to a bigger panel and normal, CODE SAFE wiring. If it were mine, I'd find the breaker associated with that circuit, shut it down, strip off some insulation a ways back on both ends and install a new piece of #12 in between the two ends with a couple of good wire nuts, tape them up and call it good. It is, of course, as I said earlier, your call.
Q: Can I spice into a near by electrical outlet to run electricty to my new range vent? Is it difficult? Seems like it would not be, but I am looking for picutures or easy steps and list of materials I will need.
That's exactly what I did. Been working fine for several years now.
Q: I have a picture of them on my phone. 2 wires are green. The last wire is orange. I couldn't post the pic but I have a pic of it on my cell phone. Thank You, Chris 1986 350 boat engine
wiring diagram for Mando alternator: google.ca/imgres?imgurl
Q: I have a 2003 Acura RSX base model with 80,000 miles on it. Over the last 2 weeks I have had a problem with my dash. Sometimes when I turn off my ignition, the dash lights will turn off and on and it will make a beeping sound. It will do this until I put the key back in and restart the car. It does not happen every time I turn off the ignition, only once in a while.Does anyone know the cause of this? Is this something I should worry about?I know about 6 months ago I had an instance where my car wouldn't start one day and I had to jump it, but when i took it to the shop they found nothing wrong with the battery or alternator. Also, the car has started fine ever since. Maybe something going wrong with electrical wiring?Thank you in advance for your help.
On normal condition, the beeping sound is appear when you already turn off the engine and open the driver door but the key still hold in the hole, it's a security system to avoid key left. If the sound appear when the door still close, do check the wire connection between the key, the door, and the security system. A loosen wire will cause the sensor have a false reading. A bout 6 months ago problem, a lack of battery power can be the cause and when the engine has turn on the charging system is working and the battery is fine again after recharge. Do check the work of alternator and battery capability to save power.
Q: Does anyone have a link/website that shows which size/color wire nut to use for connecting different guage size wires?What should I be looking out for when screwing on the nut to the wires. Is there anything that I will notice when I have found the correct size?Is the color of the nut standard from one manufacture to another?thanks
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