JET-SS Water Pump Stainless Steel Impeller & Body

JET-SS Water Pump Stainless Steel Impeller & Body

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

JET-SS water pump housing
1.Stainless Steel impeller&body
2.high efficient with excellent suction

JET-SS 0.5hp water pump specifications

JET-SS series are single stage self-priming pumps, suitable for both domestic and industrial applications to convey clean liquids and non-aggressive chemical fluide. The hydraulic characteristic is with higher head and bigger capacity.

◊ Application

For the correct functioning of the pump , use to pump clean water ,or non- aggressive liquids only , without sand or other impurities, such as :

1. Tank filling

2. Agricultural irrigation

3. Water transfer

4. Industrial using

5. Domestic water

◊ Working Conditions

1. Suction lift up to 8 m
2. Liquid temperature up to +35°C
3. Ambient temperature up to +40°C
4. Max. Working pressure: 6 bar

◊ Construct

Pump body: Cast Iron

Housing: Alloy Aluminum

Impeller: Brass/Plastic/SS

Motor: Electric Motor

Shaft: 45# steel/ stainless steel welding

Insulation : Class B ( Class F if you required)

Protection : IP44/IP54

Cooling: External Ventilation

Mechanical Seal: Carbon/Ceramic/Stainless Steel

◊ Warranty : 1 year

(according to our general sales condition)

Q: 2 different pulleys are in the way of the 2 remaining long bolts. at each end of the pump. tensioner did not need to be moved as belt is already off. Motor mount is 1/2 way removed and motor has dropped slightly gt; Am reading a jack must be placed under motor with wood via oil pan ( am hoping no other damage was done) Am told there is a certain device available to remove the pulleys? ... -Would appreciate anyone's info and advice on the remaining steps to this procedure on this make and model engine. as I have come into it obviously with it having begun the wrong way!! Thanks!!: to get the water pump out you need to remove the water pump pulley first it has four 10 mm bolts (I have seem them with 8 mm bolt with a large shoulder on them too ) you can break the bolts loose one of 2 ways 1) put a long screwdriver between the two of the bolt to hold the pulley in place while u break one loose then spin the pulley around rinse and repeat once there all loose u can turn them out by hand and pull off the pulley some time u have to give the pully a little tap to come off you shouldn't need to take off the motor mount unless u plan on chaging the serpintine belt ? be sure once you get the pump off you clean the block side of the surface really good with a scraper make sure u get all the old gasket off the block side so it will seal right when u install the new pump I also recommend a tube of ultra black rtv sealant and only black I have used blue silicone before on many occasion and it has failed me I only use black rtv plus it makes it a lot easier if you have to replace the pump in the future as it come off a little easyier hope this helps a little good luck may the car gods be with you also I would recommend doing a back flush with warm or hot water and using the old school green antifreeze either full or 50/50 mix Dexcool orange has a very well know issue of eating gaskets and putting engine into a vapor lock very costly to fix

Q: i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!: you're saying that your pump used to function precise in the previous, so if the pump is in sturdy situation, the elevate should not be too great so we are able to rule that out. it sounds as though to me that the gurgling sound may well be made by potential of sucking air, and for this to ensue, it would be a concern on the inlet area of the pump. If the guy who repaired the pump is familiar with what he's doing, it won't be the pump, so we are able to rule that out. That leaves the pipe and any fittings between the pump and the foot valve that could desire to be on the top of the pipe. attempt working the pump, and pouring water over all joints and fittings, one after the different, if the pump is working precise, a slurping sound would be heard on the leak. The pump could have a priming factor, a screw in plug, someplace on proper of it. With the pump stopped, get rid of the plug, and pour water into the hollow. you will possibly desire to have the skill to fill the pump appropriate up, and the water stay at that time, without draining away. If it wont hold the water, the valve on the backside of the pipe is the two wiped out or has something like a stone or gravel struggling with it from working precise. As you have disconnected this pump for upkeep, it would have needed priming besides, that's the filling up with water. it is too plenty to ask a dry pump to enhance water any peak, so in step with danger you do not have a concern in any respect. sturdy success

Q: How do the water pump work please till me water pump mechanism?: Water pumps can be positive displacement or impeller type. Either of these increases the pressure of the water and so can move or lift the water. Centrifugal is an impeller type where a sort of fan blows the water. If the fan stops the water can flow back. You'll need to prime these if they get dry. Fishtanks might use this. Positive displacement means that the water is pushed by some sort of piston. Diaphragm pumps are positive displacement and useful if you don't want the water to run back. Also you won't need to prime it because won't drop the water out when it stops. I'm not sure where hydraulic ram type pumps come into this scheme but they rely on the inertia of moving water to generate high pressure pulses to pump water.

Q: The meter on my dash was reading low even after driving for 20 minutes on a sunny day. Then all of a sudden it jumped over the 270 mark. I have a relatively new thermostat could my water pump have gone bad? I did not see any leaking coolant or anything under the vehicle.: It sounds like the thermostat was stuck open from the last drive cycle, and thats why your car wouldn't warm up, then it sounds like (somehow) it is now stuck closed. The only way to be sure is to feel for any large differences in temperature before and after the thermostat to see if its stuck.

Q: I had my timing belt replaced @ 80k (now have 138k) and was told by new mechanic that the water pump was not replaced then. Do I need to have pump replaced? What will happen if I don't? Thx: Pump is leaking if you see water, other than A/C under car or coolant is constantly getting low. If water pump goes car will over heat and can leave you stranded. If you are not going to keep car for more than a year don't worry about either unless pump is bad. If pump is bad just change the pump. No need to pay for timing belt if your not going to keep car. If Mech. scared you get a second opinion or take your Dad with you because some people will try and take advantage of females about cars, and I did say some not all.

Q: Water pump quot;leakingbut not dripping anything. how important?my 04 tacoma has a quot;leaking water pumpquot;. I just see some pink fluid around the seals, nothing is dripping. toyota dealer didnt make a big deal about it, just said i should get it done soon. heck they didnt even tell me, i just saw it on the receipt.other mechanics said the same thing. quot;whenever u want to do it we'll do it.is it not an hugely important mechanism or what? how long can i go without doing it? the first symptom would be the engine getting a little hotter? its been like that for 5-6 months.: Water okorder / They are typically not very expensive, and many are easy to replace yourself. You will need to get it replaced sooner or later, so I would go ahead and do it now before it leaves you stranded or causes and accident.

Q: I just came from my dealership and they tested my car with a pressure test. They didnt notice any coolant leaks. Last week my car I noticed that the coolant level has decreased. I had to replenish it in an emergency effort. I am curious to check the water pump. I am going to ask my mechanic tomorrow if he could check it and how much does something like that cost to check? I DO NOT want any coolant leakage getting into my engine because that could present a problem. How can it possibily get to the engine???: If you had a water pump leak you'd know it! There would be coolant draining out of water pump seal the minute you filled the cooling system. A water pump leak doesn't get coolant into the motor. It will get the timing belt wet with antifreeze and cause the belt to jump time and possibly bend your valves. The only way you'll get coolant in the motor oil is if there is a head gasket leak. To check for that you need to have a block test done.

Q: I have gotten oil in my coolant, and coolant in my oil..It might be the head gasket, no doubt, but many people said (online forums) that my bike, has issues with the seal that is separating oil pump from water pump. They go bad, and when they do, the oil mixes with coolant and vise versa. Now, I am seeking from professional help, on how to take out both of the pumps, without messing up timing, and also without messing up anything else. I have removed the entire exhaust system, dropped the oil pan, and i can see the oil/water pump pretty good. What i do not know is how to remove it properly. Any help is help, I have searched and searched on google and forums on how to perform this task, but couldnt find any specific help on how to remove the pump. Thank you!!!!!: Take pictures make notes if you don't have a manual.

Q: Replaced the water pump in my 89 f150 and now I have a pretty steady leak coming out. I don't know where the leak is coming from, but its running down the lower hose and dripping off it. I've replaced the lower hose and water pump, what could be causing this?: Forgot the water pump gasket or sealant. Didn't torque the bolts. Didn't clean off the old gasket good enough. Left a piece of debris on the sealing surface. Didn't get the hose all the way on the water pump, didn't tighten the clamp enough. Check the simple things first. It's got to be one of those since the pump is new. Although not all new things work!! Sometimes you get a bad one especially if rebuilt.

Q: Well I know the water pump is leaking and its leaking fast. So I put water in the coolant reservoir and when I drive it acts fine but then when I stop and idle the coolant tank starts too over flow and spits the water out everywhere. Car still being at reg temperature the coolant reservoir is steaming/smoking? I can't tell which. But there doesn't seem to be water in the oil??? What's going on? If the water pump is replaced will this stop?: Start where the obvious problem lies. Replace water pump AND thermostat AND radiator cap.

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