• insulated galvanized steel wire System 1
insulated galvanized steel wire

insulated galvanized steel wire

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
2000km m/month

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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Jiangsu, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:7-conductor

  • Insulation Material:F46

  • Type:Low Voltage

  • Application:oilfield, well logging, oil exploration

  • Conductor Material:Copper

  • Jacket:steel wire

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Iron pan, wooden tray or according to customer's requirement.
Delivery Detail:30 days after payment

Specifications

well logging cable
a. Quick delivery
b. Competitive price with high quality
c. Free samples
d. Expert in cable and wire

7-conductor fluoroplastics F46 insulated double-deck steel thread armored oilfield well logging cable for oilfields

1. Product Standard

The product is manufactured according to the standard of SY/T6600-2004.

2. Application

The product is applicable to all types of oil and gas well logging, perforation, coring and paraffin oil wells, viscosity, pour point and so on. It’s such kind of oil field exploration armored steel cable which could bear all the above mentioned mechanical load.

3. Operating Characteristics

a.The lowest temperature that cable could work should not be lower than-30°C.

b.Max temperature is 232°C for short period (2h maximum duration each time).

c.Minimum bending radius is 30 times of cable diameter.

CONSTRUCTION DESCRIPTION:

Copper Construction:

7×0.0129’’

7×0.33 mm

Plastic Type:

PP

Insulation Thickness:

0.0936’’

2.38 mm

Number and Size of Wires:

Inner Armor:

16×0.05925”

16×1.505 mm

Outer Armor:

20×0.06575”

20×1.67 mm

Average Wire Breaking Strength:

Inner Armor:

747 lbs

3325 N

Outer Armor:

920 lbs

4094 N

CABLE CHARACTERISTICS:

PHYSICAL:

Cable Diameter:

0.520’’±0.0039’’

13.20 mm ±0.10 mm

Cable Weight In Air:

473 lbs/Kft  

704 Kg/Km

Temperature Rating :    

450 °F

232 °C

                                                 

MECHANICAL:

Cable Breaking Strength:

24720 lbs  

110 KN

Minimum Sheave Diameter:

23.5’’

590 mm

Cable Stretch Coefficient:

0.714 ft/Kft/Klbs

0.80 m/Km/5KN

ELECTRICAL:

Voltage Rating:

1200 VDC

1200 VDC

Insulation Resistance:

50000 MΩ·Kft

15000 MΩ·Km

DC Resistance @ 20°C

10 Ω/Kft

33 Ω/Km

Cap Typical @ 1 KHz

40 Pf/ft

130 Pf/m

Q: I am trying to replace my cigarette lighter on my car. The replacement requires the wiring to to be redone. It has a terminal wire attached to it, but when I attach it to the wire on the car it doesn't work. After reading the reviews on the product everyone has said the wiring needs to be redone. What wires do I connect to what (Positive, negative, terminal). I am using product REPU506801.
You need to get a test light and find a wire under the dash or coming from the ignition that has power when the key is turned on. If you want the plug to have power when the key is off then you will need to find a wire that has power when the key is off. Once you find the wire make sure its thicker wire and splice into it.
Q: I spliced the stereo wires to the adapter to plug into my car. there's 2 extra orange wires in the adapter. There orange it says there for illumination and the dimmer. What should I do with them? Did I get the wrong one?
If the vehicle/truck grew to become into made until now 1968 i'm able to warm cord it andchronic it.After 1968 i'm able to attempt initiate the engines yet i cannotchronic it now devoid of disassembling the steerage wheel calum.somebody advised me,then your no longer e very stable mechanic.I replayed no that advise i'm no longer a vehicle thief.
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In terms of amp wiring subs are no different than speakers. Just make sure you know the rms power of the amp and related current requirements so you choose the correct wire size. Also understand that the unusually inexpensive kits are not usually very honest about the actual size of the wire. 8 awg will cover you up to about 600w rms. An 8 awg kit should have a 50-60A fuse. 4 awg will cover up to 1000-1200w rms and should include at LEAST an 80A fuse, preferably 100-150A.
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i couldn't tell you without knowing the amperage in those 300vac because amps are what generate the heat but if you wanna know if its high quality or not strip the psu wire and if its silver its good wire if its copper..... use at your own risk
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One wire is probably a ground. Is it bare copper or green? If so it's meant for ground. Black is hot and white is neutral.
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The wire that was attached to the mount is your ground. (It should be thicker than the one from the fixture. - Use a 'wirenut' to make the connection.) The White wires will be your 'Neutrals'- 'White' from your new fixture. For the 'Black' from the fixture, use the same wire that was connected to the old fixtures 'black'. If you didn't keep track of which is which, then you are now 'in over your head'. Get experienced help before you cause damage or hurt yourself.
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Why not wire the toggle switch into the remote + wire? The one that turns the amp on and off with the head unit. 7/5/2013**** Leave the power supply wire alone. The thick 4 gauge wire that runs from the battery directly to the amp, leave it alone, don't put a toggle switch inline on that wire. Instead there's a wire from your head unit (or ignition) that runs to your amp, it turns on the amp when the head unit turns on or your ignition key is in the on position. It's usually 16 or 14 gauge. That's the wire where the toggle switch belongs. Look at your amp, this wire I am speaking of is probably labeled remote+ or ign or something like that and it's usually located next to your power and ground connections on the amp.
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You dont need Instructions for Car Specific. You just Need to Hook the large Power wire for your amp direct to battery, The large black ground wire to the frame or body, Something metal. And the small Power wire To Switched power. IE, a terminal on the fuse block thats only hot with the key ON. Thats it. Good luck.
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For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/OZ4TL 2 -1 ohms doesn't make sense. Take a better look at your meter, no offense intended. Generally they have positions for different levels of resistance, from 2 ohms to 200k ohms; choosing the right setting will give you a better idea of the right reading, which should be around 2000 ohms. You needn't change them for the heck of it, but it's not a bad idea. The corrosion/rust is normal, it wouldn't cause you any trouble.

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