High Quality Oxygen Free Copper Wire System 1

High Quality Oxygen Free Copper Wire

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:	Tianjin China (Mainland)	Certificates：	ISO,SGS,BV	Model Number:	C10200,C10400,C10500,C10700,T2,C1100BD,C1100BE,C11000,M1,C1201B,M1P,Cu
Application:	industry,construction,decorative	Diameter:	3mm~800mm	Shape:	Round
Length:	3m,5.8m,6m or as required	Grade:	C1220B,CuZn15,H62,C2800B, CuZn40,C61400,C62300,C64200,QSi3-1,C65500,C6	Cu (Min):	99.99%
Alloy Or Not:	Non-alloy	stock:	yes,have stock for standard dimension and weight	brand new:	yes,non-secondary

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:	Standars export seaworth package or as required
Delivery Detail:	Prompt delivery and upon negotiation

Specifications

oxygen free copper wire
1.Diameter:3mm~800mm
2.Length:1m~12m
3.Material:T1,T2,T3,TP1,TP2,C10100,C1011,C10200,C1020,C12000,T

Item	copper wire rod,copper wire bar,Copper bar,copper rod,bright copper bar,bright copper rod,brass bar,brass rod
Standard	JIS H3250-2006,ASTM B187/B187M-03,GB/T 4423-2007,ASTM B150M-03, ASTM B98M-03,ASTM B151M-05
Material	C1020BE,C1020BD,C10200,C10400,C10500,C10700,T2,C1100BD,C1100BE, C11000,M1,C1201B,M1P,Cu-DLP,C1220B,CuZn15,H62,C2800B, CuZn40,C61400, C62300,C64200,QSi3-1,C65500,C66100,C71500
Diameter	3mm~800mm
Length	5.8m,6m or as required
Surface	mill,polished,bright,oiled,hair line,brush,mirror,sand blast,or as required
Package	Standard export seaworthy or as customers’ requirements
Application	Copper bar can be made as all kinds of deep drawing and bending stress components,such as pin,rivets,washers,nuts,ducts,air gauge,screen mesh,radiator parts,etc.Has a good mechanical performance,under the hot plasticity is good, the plastic fair,under the cold can good machinability,fine welding and welding, corrosion resistance,is widely used an ordinary brass
Export	Ireland,Singapore,Indonesia,Ukraine,Saudi Arabia,Spain,Canada,USA,Brazil,Thailand,Iraq,Russia, Holland,Turkey,Kuwait,Korea,Iran,India,Egypt,Oman,Malaysia,Peru, Vietnam,Mexico,etc

Q:how we can predict the maximum load that stainless steel cable wire can achieved?: And if you refuse to believe the first answer, then Contact the manufacturer.

Q:like lets i want to want to connect my speaker wires with other wires can i use elmer glue so that it sticks and will the wires still work?: u have to take off some of the plastic parts then twist the wires together then put electrical tape.. well atleast thats how i think it's done..

Q:Just bought a new amp for my truck. The speaker outputs needs to be indiviually wired to the door speakers. Do you splice into the speaker wire or the trucks harness?: ideally you want to wire directly from the amp to the door speakers with new speaker wire but doing this properly requires removing some of the trimming and passing the new wires throughout the car. you can also take the easier route and pass the wires from your amp up under the steering wheel behind the center console and splice them into the existing wires going to the door speakers. as long as the wattage isn't very high the latter shouldn't be a problem. however, if it were up to me i would use new wires and pass them throughout the car, removing the trimmings, etc. this can be somewhat of a pain to do if you have never done it before though.

Q:I am currently doing a guitar build and want to do the 21 tone jimmy page wiring style. I have a few questions. I can follow the diagram attached fairly well but am just confused on certain points. 1. for all the wires excluding the pickup wires, so the majority of the black wires, should those be hot wire or ground wire? I bought a wire back that has black ground wire and hot white wire and am confused on what to use when. 2. Specifically with the black wire coming from each pickup, once those go to a terminal on the pot the black wire that comes off of that joint is a connecting wire like in question 1, not a stretch of the pickup wire correct?3. When multiple wires come to a single solder joint should you tin the pot and then add one wire at a time to that spot or solder them all together and then to the pot?: Hello there, 1) Excluding pickups, black wire hot or ground? They use black for both in that diagram. I believe the only ground wires are all marked as ground in the diagram. A ground wire will run from the case of a pot to somewhere. To the ground side of the jack. To the bridge. To another pot. As for what you bought, I have no idea what you are trying to say. There is no difference in the wire itself that is used for ground or hot. You can use any wire (except bare) for either of those. 2) The black wire from the bridge pickup goes to a terminal of the switch on the push/pull bridge volume pot. You may solder the wire and continue the same wire down to the terminal of the switch on the push/pull tone pot. Or you can use another wire to connect those switches. The black wire from the neck pickup go to the middle terminal of the neck volume pot. Again, you may continue the wire from the pickup or solder in another wire to connect to the switch on the push/pull neck tone pot. 3). When I run ground wires to the case of a pot. I used separate solder joints. I do not wrap the wires together and then solder them as a group onto the pot. I have tried that and got bad connection on some of the wires. Best to solder ground wires separately. On a switch terminal where you have two wires coming to the same terminal, I try to solder both wires at the same time to the terminal. 4). All connections are soldered. Also, you should be aware that not all pickups have the same colored wires. You need to check the color code for the brand of pickups you are using. Seymour Duncan makes his diagrams based on using his pickups. If you use some other brand, the color of the pickup wires may be different. Seymour Duncan has a pickup wire color code chart on his web site. Later, Norm

Q:have black (hot) and 2 whites from the house. Got Black,green.blue.and white from the fan. Any clues on how to wire this? There is a light switch involved. I know to match the colors but what do with the blue (light) wire is beyond me.: The blue wire is the supply connection for the fan motor, simply connect this wire to your homes black wire. ( blue and black from fan) to the black wire in the box. Splice the two neutral ( white ) wires together. If you plan on using a dimmer switch use one with motor control. Green is your ground connect it to the bare copper wire in the box or screw Its a good thing you picked up on that white wire at first glance I was thinking the fan had 2 whites, .. You will have two switches if one of the white wires in your box is a switch leg, if there is two switches, make sure you separate the wires in the ceiling box, place a marrett on each individual one for safely, turn the switches on remove one marrett a time test with a multimeter white to ground to identify you hot and neutral

Q:I removed my range hood (switched off the electricity for it first) and there are three wires coming out of the wall. There's a white insulated, black insulated, and totally not insulated copper wire. What is the non-insulated copper wire? When I flip the electricity on, will it have a charge? It was weirdly wrapped around a screw in the box with the wiring...I'm not sure if it was doing anything. Thanks!: The bare wire is ground, perhaps the most important wire because it is there for safety. Sure the hood would have worked with out it but you may have gotten electrocuted if it wasn’t connected. Whenever connecting wires in anything the ground wire must be connected. If the box you are connecting the wires in is metal, not only do you have to connect the ground wire to any other ground wires you also have to connect it to the metal box so that the box is grounded. Otherwise later you may come back and touch the box and get electrocuted. The ground wire is there to ensure the breaker/fuse gets tripped if a hot wire touches any metal part of any appliance that is connect in the circuit. If not it will be like touching a hot wire just by touching the appliance. Hope this helps!

Q:I have 2 wires coming up a conduit. i need to put those wires into a timer and then to my pump. can anyone explain or has a website with diagrams: The timer is just like a light switch, The hot from the power source (black wire) goes to one side of the timer. From the other side of the time it takes a wire to go to the pump. The white (neutral) goes from the power source to the pump. Provided this is 120 volts.

Q:I need thick floral wire and they keep saying things like 24 gauge 26 gauge 28 gauge.. like how would i know which one is thiickest if i'm buying it online.: Floral Wire Gauge

Q:Source 115V 20A breakerI have 12/2 wire and want to wire this:GFCI 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacle -to- 15A receptacleI have basic wiring skills, just need reassurance. Thanks.: Firstly, you only need to use 12gauge 2 wire (plus ground I hope) between the 20 amp circuit and the 15 amp GFI. For the rest you can use 14 gauge wire. It is cheaper and easier to handle/wire. Then the only wiring to watch is the GFI. the rest is standard. At the GFI the only difference is that the white (common) wire is separated by using different terminals for supply and load sides. This is done to give the GFI a reference to compare current flow in the hot and common wires on the load side. That tells the GFI when there is a partial short or leak in the load that could cause different levels of shock. I hope this gives someone a chuckle!

Q:i bought a programmable thermostat, and the wiring i see doesn't make any sense. it's for central air, heating and cooling. there are no tags or labels on the wires, and it was probably installed in the seventies.there are four wires coming out of the wall, and they're screwed into four of six slots:Y = blue wireG = red wireW = green wireR = white wireB = emptyO = emptythe new thermostat has the following slots: G, Rc, Rh, Y/O, W/B, Y1. how should the old labels correspond to the new ones?: First of all from what you are saying on how the old thermostat is wired,your furnace is wired up wrong...On the old thermostat the red wire should go to R... The white wire should go to W... The green wire should go to G... And the blue wire should go to Y... On the new thermostat the red wire should go to Rc and a jumper wire from Rc to Rh... The white wire goes to W/B... The green wire goes to G... and the blue wire goes to Y1... But if your sure that your old thermostat was wired the way you say it was then the red wire goes to G...the white wire goes to Rc with a jumper wire to Rh... the green wire goes to W/B... and the blue wire goes to Y1...

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