Oxygen-free Copper Busbar With High Conductivity

Oxygen-free Copper Busbar With High Conductivity

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 500 kg

Supply Capability:: 10000 kg/month

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Type	Cu%(WT)	W%(WT)	RWMA	Density	E-conductivity(Min)		heat conduction	thermal expensivity
Class	(Min)	Hardness	((W/mK))
		(Min)
CuW55	45±2	Balance	10	12.30g/cm3	49%IACS	125HB	~260	~11.7(10-6/K)
CuW60	40±2	Balance		12.75g/cm3	47%IACS	140HB
CuW65	35±2	Balance		3.30g/cm3	44%IACS	155HB
CuW70	30±2	Balance		13.80g/cm3	42%IACS	175HB	~240	~9.7(10-6/K)
CuW75	25±2	Balance	11	14.50g/cm3	38%IACS	195HB	200~230	9.0~9.5 (10-6/K)
CuW80	20±2	Balance	12	15.15g/cm3	34%IACS	220HB	190~210	8.0~8.5 (10-6/K)
CuW85	15±2	Balance		15.90g/cm3	30%IACS	240HB	180~200	7.0~7.5(10-6/K)

Production Equipment

750-1500kg main frequency induction copper melting furnace, 80MN water seal extruder, LG60 high speed two-roll cold pilger mill, straight-line wire-drawing machine, copper tube/pipe straightener, polisher, 84′ copper coil winding machine, straightening-cutting & pancake coiling machine, thermoplastic packaging machine, 1.2T continuous bright annealing furnace.

80MN extruder

Continuous bright annealing furnace

Testing Devices

spectrum analyzer, atomic absorption analyzer, spectrophotometry, analytical balances, metallurgical microscope, eddy current flaw detector, metal tensile testing machine, eddy conductivity instrument.

Hardness tester

Spectrum analyzer

Metallurgical microscope

Metal tensile testing machine

Atomic absorption analyzer

Process

refined copper — smelting & casting — extrusion — rolling — drawing — straightening-cutting/forming of pancake coil — bright annealing — packaging — finished goods.

Standards

GB/T 1527-2006     Drawn tube of copper and copper alloys
GB/T 16866-2006   Dimensions and tolerances of copper and copper alloy seamless tubes
GB/T 4423-2007     Copper and copper-alloy cold-drawn rod and bar
GB/T 5231-2001    Wrought copper and copper alloys chemical composition limits and forms of wrought products
GB/T 5585.1-2005   Copper or aluminium and its alloy bus bars for electrical purposes—Part 1:Copper andcopper alloy bus bars
GB/T 17791-2007   Seamless copper tube for air conditioner and refrigeration equipment
GB/T 19850-2005   The seamless round copper tubes for electrical purposes
GB/T 26024-2010   Seamless copper and copper alloys tube for valves on air-conditioning and refrigeration system
ASTM B280-2008   Standard Specification for Seamless Copper Tube for Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Field Service
EN 12735-1：2001 Copper and copper alloys Seamless,round copper tubes for air-conditioning and refrigeration Part 1:Tubes for piping systems
EN 12735-2：2001 Copper and copper alloy – seamless round copper tube/pipe for air-conditioning and refrigeration system – for equipment
JIS H3300-2009       Seamless copper and copper alloy tube/pipe

Q: We own a home built in 1912. All the plumbing is outdated galvanized steel. We want to replace all of the pipes. Some say copper, some say plastic. Which is better (easier to install, cheaper, etc)?: Plastic pipe is cheaper and easier to install (and you don't need to light a torch to connect it together). Copper is a stronger pipe and will provide a longer life for the new piping. Either of these choices will be an improvement to the galvanized pipe you currently have. You may want to look at putting copper in areas that are harder to get into, and areas exposed to the elements, where the extra strength may be helpfull. Then, use plastic pipe everywhere else.

Q: If you touch a test lead to a copper pipe in the house, and put the other test lead in a neutral outlet we get approx. 116 volts. An electrician came by and looked for reverse polarity in the outlets but nothing. Since the house was built in the 1930‘s we did have open grounds on the outlets which are fixed. The electrician seemed to think there could be a box buried somewhere and the wrong wires are tied together can anyone think of a fix on this since we can‘t find the box ? or a different check ? fix ?: If you get a voltage reading on the Hot side of the same outlet and the copper pipes, I would start looking for a broken neutral line. Start at the panel. Did the electrician open up the meter box? If not and he worked for me, I'd fire him for not doing his job completely. I went to a house where the plumber was replacing all the drainage pipes in the house and when he started to replace the outside part of it, he cut the main sewage pipe and the entire electrical system in the house went down. I found the neutral line connection at the transformer has come undone. I started at the beginning. At the meter base. When I found no resistance between the neutral and the ground that I standing on, I looked up. There it was. Good luck and may God bless.

Q: Is a copper pipe a clue that water runs through it?: in most instances the only things running through a copper pipe would be air or water. steam oil and gas aren't going to be run through copper pipe.

Q: What is the range of scrap copper prices in the last 3 years ?: go okorder

Q: I'm doing a science project and I need to know the scientific explanation of how vinegar and salt affect copper pennies.: Vinegar is an acid and will corrode copper......salt has a similar corrosive action..

Q: I want to build a copper floor heating, but I don't know the mats. Anyone knows what would be the thickness of copper wire and the distance between the wire on m2?Thanks and sorry for bad English!: Since you mention copper wire, it sounds like you are using electric resistive heating. Copper pipes are used to run warm water thru them to radiant heat because copper transfers heat very effectively. But if you are using wire resistive heating, copper is a poor choice because copper doesn't resist and so you won't get any heat from it. You need a metal that has high resistance to electric flow, like iron wire , nickel, nichrome or even carbon. To calculate heat you must know how much BTU's you need to heat your house. One kilowatt of power converted into heat equals about 3414 BTU's. A 1500 sq ft house might need 60,000 BTU's to heat in 20F weather. So that is about 18 kw of power needed If you use the formula power = current squared * resistance You see that for a circuit carrying 15 amps, you will need 4.4 ohms of resistance per 1000 watts. 1000 watts = 15 amp^2 * R R = 4.4 ohm If you put in copper wire a foot apart, you would never get 4.4 ohms of resistance. So pick materials that make high resistance, like zinc, or nichrome wire

Q: I am planning on making a movie set in Europe during the Copper Age and I would like to know how copper was smelted in all the regions (China, India, Turkey, Mesopotamia, Europe, etc.) of the Copper Age. I want to know the techniques, steps, and what tools they used. It would be great if you could tell where the copper came from and how it was mined. It would be nice if you provided the sources to your information.: To my knowledge there was never a Copper Age. You go Stone Age, Bronze Age, Iron Age. Bronze is an amalgam of copper with a small amount of tin. The period runs from about 2,000 B.C. to about 700 B.C. The basic production is to make a mould of the item you want from clay. First you make the desired item from wax. Then you enclose the wax in clay, leaving a hole in the top. Heating the copper/tin mix in a crucible until it melts then pour what is now bronze into the hole in the mould. The bronze melts the wax and replaces it, (the lost wax technique). At the early stages of mining, men used deer antler picks to dig narrow tunnels in ore bearing rock. Copper stains the surrounding rocks green, so a seam of copper is relatively easy to spot. Copper and tin do not usually occur together, so bronze seems to suggest a trade system. Britain, and especially Cornwall were known in antiquity by the Phoenicians as the Tin Isles.

Q: I have a copper canope above my fire but the copper has blue/green streaks. Standard brass/copper cleaner ( Brasso ) doesn't shift it. Any ideas ?: Type your questions into google.

Q: Alright. In my basement there is a guest bedroom. when you walk into the room, the wall to your right is sheetrock and on the other side of it is a laundry room. I want to knock that wall down and move it out farther increasing the size of the room. The problem is on the other side of the wall is an independant shower stall, it has copper water pipes coming down from the cieling that hook into it for hot and cold water. I need to move the shower to be able to move the wall out but i cant move the shower with the pipes there, they arnt flexible and even if they were they dont go much farther than where the shower is sitting. So i want to know if there is an easy DIY way to be able to unhook the water pipes, move the shower and then do something to rout the water back to the shower. i can bend the pipes into the cieling i think but where do i go from there? is there a way i can hook something to the pipes that is long and flexible?: you buy an air compressor take it home. Open the box. Plug it in, let it fill up with air. Use the tire valve attachment, place it on the valve and inflate to proper psi.

Q: How do you weld aluminium tubes and copper tubes? Who knows?: If you want to put the aluminum tube and copper pipe welding together the first heating of copper in copper tube to heat directly after the silver brazing welding, never old heating tubes, heating tube electrode has been the plug pipe flaring die. When the slip expansion tube

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