High Quality and Cheapest Price Polished Porcelain Tiles From China
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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Specifications
China polished porcelain tile
Size : 600 x 600 cm, 800 x 800 mm
Surface:Nano polished finish
Water absorption:< 0.2 %
CE&ISO
China polished porcelain tile
Product Description
Basic Information :
tile type | Porcelain tiles, porcelain polished, floor tiles |
certificate | CE, ISO9001 |
finished | Nano finish, matte finish, semi polished |
Size | 60x60 80x80 |
Available in | many designs, size, colors |
Features:
1) Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality
2)Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, building exterior,
3)Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable
4)Material: porcelain
5)Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements
6)Available dimensions
Material | Porcelain |
Dimension | 600x600 300x600 300x300mm |
Packing | Paper packing and wooden pallets |
Finish | polished finish with superglossy |
Usage | Floor and wall |
It’s good for hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall, big project etc
We have many different color and different design for you to choose. If you want to know more about us, go on
web please there are many new products showing on our web.
Our products are good quality with reasonable price.
We have CE & ISO9001, SASO for most of our tiles
- Q: Complete DIY newbie here with an outdated bathroom that I want to make a master. The floor is covered in hideous 1x1 tiles. I will replace this tile with some 12x12 or 8x8. Any suggestions on how to get this stuff off?
- Rent a hammer chisel and it will make short work of it.
- Q: How to identify the quality of ceramic tile and standard
- (10) Size deviation: Tile specifications can be measured with a caliper, good product specifications are small, paving products after the uniform, straight brick, decorative effect is good; poor product specifications deviation, product size is different; (11) color selection: the color of the external walls should be coordinated with the surrounding environment, high-rise buildings generally should not use white or too light-colored decorative wall, in order to avoid the building lack of texture: in the interior decoration. Floor tiles and inner wall tiles to coordinate with each other; (12) the choice of tile types: to use the specific environment to choose tiles, such as the living room should choose a larger size of polished tiles or antique tiles, and the kitchen and the best choice for non-slip, easy to clean the whole body bricks.
- Q: My new home has a kitchen with glazed ceramic tiles covering most of the walls.The colour is basically honey brown, but there‘s a hideous purple border (in the same tile size shape) running horizontally vertically all over the place - I‘d say that 20% of the tiles are this colour.I want to reduce all the tiles to one (new) colour.Two guys (both pros) have this to say:GUY 1: Cheapest solution (and least noisy/disruptive) is to use a ‘glass enamel paint‘ over the tiles. I went online and found several manufacturers of this stuff.GUY 2: Scoffed at this and said there was no other way than retiling the whole kitchen.Guy 1 is adamant that it can be done, and the job will last if enough care is taken in preparing the surface.Is he right?Has anyone tried this ‘re-enamelling‘ technique, and were the results OK?Thanks!
- Just my 2 cents. A couple of months ago I saw a bathroom with painted tile and it looked really different. It looked really cheap. I think you would be disappointed if you spent the time and money to paint the tiles.
- Q: We are laying 18 x 18 porcelain tiles in our kitchen for an open house we‘re having in 6 days. We can‘t figure out when and how to tile under the refrigerator. Do we have to move the refrigerator into another room? Can we wait two days for the mortar and grout to set firm and move the refrigerator onto the newly installed tile so we can lay tile where refrigerator will go? If we do that, should we then wait 24 hours for that tile to set so we can move the refrigerator back into place?What is the best way to handle the installation? I would appreciate any thoughts on how this is most ideally done.
- Well, please take my advice as I used to work at a popular Australian tile franchise. Number one - make sure the porcelain you are laying is pre-sealed, as porcelain is a natural stone and is 'porous', so harsh staining can will occur if they are not sealed. If they are just 'Glazed Porcelain' tiles, they don't need to be 'sealed' as they are on a ceramic biscuit and just have a glazed protective coating, which are quite 'hardwearing'. In which they are 'ceramic'. Number two - YES!! you must fully take out all fixtures to lay in the bathroom and kitchen, tiles will almost usually be there many years more than a vanity or a fridge. If you replace your kitchen cabinetry, well all floor space should be tiled. Many people run into problems of the 'previous owner' not doing the job properly, and down the track they wan't the same tile.....well the life of a tile is around 4 years then they become extinct., even if you can get the same tile, it will not be of the same batch/shade. Trying to fix up half-hearted jobs isn't as easy as some people think!!! So please tile ALL floor area and order enough so you have a couple of spare boxes left over, for future repairs. Because you will never get that same tile batch/shade ever again!! You'll also make it easier for the next person who lives there. Also, if you find out that if it is true polished porcelain and there not pre-sealed, buy a 'reputable' tile sealer and seal them before laying. As when you grout the tile (if there not sealed) you will create a grout haze around all your joints and will be a nightmare to remove and your lovely porcelain won't look so 'lovely'!! HAVE FUN......
- Q: the third tile. All three tiles types have the same side length. Determine the shape of the third tile type.
- Where 3 tiles meet, they must add up to a full 360°. The formula for the interior angle of a regular n-sided polygon is: ((n - 2)*180) / n Plugging in n=4, the interior angle of a square is 90° Plugging in n=5, the angle of a pentagon is 108° The angle of the third tile is x and the 3 angles must add up to a full 360°: 90 + 108 + x = 360 Solve for x: x = 360 - 198 x = 162 Plug that into the original equation and solve for n: ((n - 2) * 180) / n = 162 (n-2) * 180 = 162n n - 2 = (162/180)n n - (162/180)n = 2 (18/180)n = 2 (1/10)n = 2 n = 2 * 10 n = 20 So the third tile must be from a regular icosagon (20-sided polygon) Answer: Regular icosagon; see the picture below.
- Q: I have three ceramic tiles that need a special curved cut. I‘m just looking for some place where I can take the tiles in and they cut them for me onsite and I walk out with my cut tiles. Home Depot doesn‘t offer this service. Who does? I live in Atlanta.
- Try your local flooring stores. The store I work in cuts tile so I would assume most flooring stores could.
- Q: According to the Home Depot book I should NOT install on top of existing vinyl tiles but according to the Lowes website I can if it is smooth and in good condition(which it is). It would be easier to install on top but I would like to do it the way that is the best.
- Yes,You can. I have installed hundreds of them. As long as you have a smooth even surface under the new floor your fine. Make sure you glue down any lose ends or corners that may be sticking up now on the floor you want to tile over. There are 2 options..You can put a very,very light skim coat of floor adhesive over the old floor..(In the main traffic areas) let it tack up for 30-40 mins. then lay the tile. Or you can just go with what adhesive is on the back of the tile. I always put a very light skim coat of glue down cuz i don't want to hear the tile pop on different spots where the tile adhesive from the back of the tile didn't adhere to the floor. Make sure you have a can of mineral spirits if you use the floor adhesive. This cleans the glue that may come up between the tiles. Just make sure you use a plastic throw away trowel and use the SMALL TOOTHED edge and lay it on THIN!!. Last but not least...always start with a full tile in the doorway and work you way into the kitchen,bathroom,foyer areas. DON'T line the tile up with the existing tile!!! Make sure when you lay the new tile over the old tile..your first piece should cover two tiles. The tiles are 12 x12..make a 6 in. mark in the middle. Then when you lay your first tile..make sure that mark lines up where both tiles meet that your going to cover. I hope that doesn't confuse you. Good luck.
- Q: I have a very outdated bathroom with pink tile covering just about every wall. I love to do DIY projects but can‘t afford to replace the tile. I can however afford to paint it. I read up on it and found the paint directions but don‘t want the end result to look tacky. Has anyone done this and liked the results?
- have seen it after was completed came up reasonable you have to clean the tiles then apply a special primer then the tile paint there are pens around that can redo the grout lines. you must get the correct materials and follow everything as recomended the paints are not cheap. they might not have those paints in the. U.S.
- Q: I‘m thinking about having a bathroom tiled. The bathroom is about 6 by 8 and right now the walls have a horrible pink and black alternating ceramic tile that goes up about 4 feet on the wall all the way around. All I want to do is replace this tile with a glass tile. I have no idea what the cost would be for materials and labor so any estimates would be appreciated. This is the only work I need done.
- If you live near a Floor Decor Store, you should be able to find a decent glass tile for around $2.00/ square foot. Now, assuming it is on all four walls covering every bit of those walls, 4 ft. high, that would be about 112 square feet. Plus, you always need to buy around 15% waste. So, total you would need to buy 129 square ft. of tile. You also would need Mastic to put the tile on the wall, should cost you $50 or less for enough to tile the area you have. Labor should run you about $500-700 for the removal of the old tile and installation of the new tile. There is however one issue you might not have thought of. If you remove the old tile, it will most likely destroy the walls it is attached to. From the way it sounds, this is old tile that was installed using something called a mud bed. This is basically metal wire and weakened concrete. All of this will have to be removed and new sheet-rock or green board will have to be installed. The cost of this would run you another $600-800 in labor and materials. So your worst case scenario, would run you around $1800. If you happen to be in the Atlanta, I would be happy to take a look at the job. I have 10+ yrs. experience as Home Depot Certified Flooring Installer
- Q: I‘m installing new tile in my bathroom and had a few questions.1. I understand that I‘m supposed to remove the toilet prior to laying the tile. So I remove the toilet, lay new tile, and then put the toilet on top of the tile? Does this mean that the toilet will sit on the tile? If so, won‘t there be a very little gap where the tile and toilet meet? Are you supposed to seal this gap? Or, do you cut the tile around the shape of the bottom of the toilet and tile around it?2. Same question with the vanity. I‘m replacing my old vanity. Do I have to remove the old vanity, lay tile in the whole area where the old vanity was, and then install the new vanity on top of the tile? Again, what about the small gap? Does it need to be sealed? What do you seal it with?3. How do you remove the old vanity? Do you simply disconnect the plumbing, remove the screws holding it to the wall, and pry it from the wall?Any comments, suggestions, or advice are appreciated.
- True enough, you can tile around your vanity and not under it. However, if you ever want to replace the vanity, or change to a pedestal sink, you will find yourself with a problem. I recommend that you do a complete floor tiling job instead of trying to keep a stack of extra tiles in your garage in case this remodel situation occurs. I removed my old vanity by taking out the contents, removing any doors or drawers to gain access to the area under the sink. You can turn off the water supply valves, disconnect the water from the sink, undo the plumbing drain. If it is a popup sink stopper, you can unscrew the arm at the bottom also. If you are replacing the vanity, I estimate you will also replace the sink faucet set, which is what we are doing, so I was not too concerned about saving all the parts. BUT, put all of them in a bag so you can at least donate a used complete faucet set to Habitat's RESTORE. With the sink out of the way, now disengage the vanity from the wall. There is usually a couple of heavy lag bolts/screws which will require a wrench and not a screw driver to remove. once they are removed, you are almost there. Now take loose the shoe molding which covers the seam where vanity sits on the floor. If there is a backsplash , try to just slide the vanity away from it so it will not be broken. Sometimes all that secures the backsplash to the vanity is some silicone, and it can be cut with a razor knife inserted between the vanity top and the backsplash. I am no way a plumber, but I do very well at demolition of different home features. Take your time, and don't give up. You want to leave the wall intact, and the plumbing connections reusable. I ended up stuffing an old sock in the drain after I removed the P-trap, wrapping the end around the pipe stub. That keeps any stray odors out of the house.
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High Quality and Cheapest Price Polished Porcelain Tiles From China
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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