High Performance Safty Valves
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A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.
Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:
♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves
♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels
Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows
♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C
♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527
Features:
♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.
♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.
♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.
♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.
- Q: Is it possible for car manufacturers to make 32 / 64 / 128 / 512 Valve Car Engine just like in a PC CPU? The highest valve I saw so far is 16-valve engine. Just asking :-)
- I'm sure they could if they wanted to. The problem is the more moving parts you have the problemms you will have and the more it will cost.
- Q: We have an ejector in the basement for an in-law apartment. When the check valve kicks in, it can wake us up from a sound sleep. A very loud thunking. Any ideas?
- the check valve would be installed just outside of the crock vertically. The noise I doubt is from the check valve itself. I'd guess it is the pump shutting off and the pipe isn't fastened securely, so it bangs. Check to make sure that the run of pipe leaving the crock is fastened securely. if this is the case the only other option I oculd think of would be to re-position the check valve on a horizontal run of pipe as close to the crock as possible. Most check valves I have seen for ejectors are compression type, it will be messy but not to complicated. Keep a bucket handy, when you crack open that check valve you may need it. Flush the toilet until the pump kicks on a few times, this should clear out most of the nasty stuff. You may also need a short piece of 2 pipe and some couplings to make up for the space of the check valve. If you can hear the water flowing out when the pump kicks on and don't hear it draining back into the crock when it shuts off, the check valve is probably still good.
- Q: i have a mitsubishi eclipse 1993 and its running too lean my old smog paper said the hc's (hydrocarbons) are too high. would a egr valve temp sensor make it do that if its fualty? or could it be someting else?
- Cadillac converter
- Q: I have a 3406b motor. It has blow by. This happened when I hired a mechenic to do a top end. I belive that he did not ajust the valves correctly or something happen to the motor. I want to gap the valves to see if this helps out. How would I go on doing this.
- NO, valves does not contribute to blow by in this way.Blow-by is the compression of the cylinder getting past the piston rings during compression. Adjusting the valves is a procedure of the induction and exhaust systems. All engines experience a little blow-by which is supposed to pass through the PCV valve ventilating the crankcase. GOOD-LUCK!! BRILLIANT!!!!
- Q: Hi, I was told by my gardener that I need new sprinkler valves and each of those run about $50-70. I looked up online and I found them for $20 or less. Also what is the basic labor cost for getting them installed? I got estimates that range from $300-1000. I am confused.
- If it is $50-$70 installed, that is a good price. Where I work, we get $125, and that is about the going rate in the north east. If you want to do it yourself, do not use Toro valves, Toro is garbage. Hunter, Rainbird, Irritrol, and Weathermatic are all good valves. Dig a nice big hole where the valves are, longer on the downstream side of the sprinklers. Cut the line coming out of the valve, and unscrew it. If it is a tight fit, take the valve apart and unscrew it. If you have to take the new valve apart to put it on, There are only 3 parts inside, so don't worry about not being able to put it back together. From top to bottom, they are the spring, the rubber diaphram and the plastic ring. Then reconnect the lines coming out of the valve. Then connect the wires from the solenoid. 1 wire from each valve gets connected to the common wire. Look in your timer to see what color it is. Then the other wire gets connected to individual wires. Check the order of the wires to the valves. Write it down. This will help keep the valves in the same order they are in now. The prices you got 50-70 is what your gardener told you for each (i am assuming that he is installing them.) The 300-1000 just estimates for installation from different contractors. Unless you have 8 valves or more, the $1000 sound real high. You do not have to be a plumber to install the valves.
- Q: Hi, I was wondering if it takes a minute or two for the water to actually turn on after turning the valve? I've turned it as far as I can counter-clockwise but there's still no water. Is there something else that needs to be done to get the water back?
- you should get water immediately unless water is blocked
- Q: I have an above ground water pump. there is good pressure(40), but the pump does not stop. Pump co did diagnostic test and said that foot valve needs to be replaced. The company charge me $399 for diagnostic test and and about $2200 for the foot valve replacement. It is reasonable.
- Sounds outrageous to me. Besides the price I don't understand how a foot valve would cause the pump not to stop. Basically all a foot valve is, is a one way valve that allows the water to be pumped out of the well, and closes when the pump stops to keep the water from returning to the well. Maybe there is extenuating circumstances that would make the bill so high. A deep well would be more expensive than a shallow well, because there are two pipes to pull and they are much longer. It would be interesting what the invoice says the individual charges were. Parts, labor, etc. $2,599 should be enough to replace the whole system pump and all. Unless of course this is something like an irrigation pump. Good Luck
- Q: We have a main gas valve outside and there's a gas valve by out air condition and we want to know which way if off and on .. Does anybody know !!!
- Generally speaking the valve has a handle that pivots from parallel, to perpendicular. Open is in line, or parallel. Closed is perpendicular. If it's a rotating handle, then the valve stem will be all the way in when closed, or all the way out when open. The valve stem is located in the center of the wheel that you would turn. Hope that works for you.
- Q: I have a question about my car. The mechanic told me that my valve body needed to be rebuilt. However I read that the valve body is a sensor that tells the car when to shift gears. Now my car is a semi automatic so I can shift gears myself! I was wondering if someone could tell me whether it was still necessary to rebuild it if I'm going to be shifting gears myself? I just don't want to mess up the valve body even more and eventually have to get a whole new transmission!
- Its an electrically shifted automatic. The valve body is not a sensor it is the valving system that sends fluid to different parts of the transmission to shift gears. The solenoids on the valve body move the valves dependant on what the computer tells it to do. The paddles or shifter you have do not go to the transmission but to the ECU and the ECU decides what to actually do with the transmission. It does not matter if you shift it or let it do it its self if the transmission is going out it needs work or rebuilt, it WILL fail sooner or later and leave you stranded. So you either need to get it rebuilt or get another transmission. If you drive it until it fail you will need another unit, if you fix it now yours might be able to be saved.
- Q: This trumpet has been in storage in its casing untouched for about 5 years. I took it out and tried to play it but only air comes out and no sound. The 2nd and 3rd valves are hard to push down. What do I do to fix it? Thanks!
- Dis is a pretty common problem. The valves are in the wrong valve case or they are turned aound in the case. Take each valve out and check the number...... most have a number stamped near the top, or on the part around the spring. Get them in the right place with the notch in the case matching the little peg on the side of the valve and all should be well. By the way, if you can't get a buzz on the mouthpiece the whole problem is you alone.
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High Performance Safty Valves
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
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