High Performance Safty Valve
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Application:
A pressure relief valve (PRV) is a safety device that relieves overpressure in a vessel or system. When the pressure of vessel or system increased beyond the specified design pressure or maximum allowable working pressure, PRV will be opened automaticly to relief the overpressure for proteding the vessel or system. The PRV will be closed if the pressure reached specified design pressure so that to ensure the normal operation and protect the vessel or system.
Our Pressure Relief Valve has been designed and manuractured according to following Standard:
♦ ISO 4123-1 Safety Devices for Portection Against Excessve Pressure
♦ API STD 526 Flanged Steel Pressure Relief Valves
♦ API STD 527 Seat Tightness of Pressure Relief Valves
♦ ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII Division 1, Rules for Construction of Pressure Vessels
Peformance:
♦ Type: Conventional, Bellows
♦ Size:1" D 2"- 8" T 10"
♦ Class:150lb~2500lb
♦ Temperature:-268~+538°C
♦ Fluid: Gas, Steam, and Liquid
♦ Material: Carbon steel, Stainless steel, Alloy steel
♦ The allowable tolerance of the set pressure: ≤±3%
♦ Overpressure: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Blowdown: ≤10%(gas)/≤20%(liquid)
♦ Tightness: conforms to API STD 527
Features:
♦The solid nozzle is screwed into the body, which makes the maintenance easy.
♦ The shape of the disc holder has been designed to enhance the effect of the fluid thrust for an instant lift of the disc.
♦ Blowdown control is provided with adjustable nuzzle ring only.
♦ The adequate terials and clearance between disc holder and guide , spindle and adjusting screw assures disc to lift successfully.
♦ The surface of both the disc and the nozzle seat are deposited with Stellite. Excellent flatness and surface finish of the seating surfaces by precision machining and lapping assure pressure relief valve to have high degree of seat tightness and long using life.
♦ The bellows of balanced bellows pressure relief valves can not only avoid and effect of variable back pressure in the system , but also protect spring and other trim components from corrosive media.
♦ Materials are chosen carefully , and the manufacture of the spring and the bellows has strict technological process. Each of them is tested and checked strictly.
- Q: I want to know if a person with multiple leaking heart valves left untreated, is in any more danger than someone with a single leaking heart valve.
- yes, it is more dangerous! have someone take that person to the ER right away or call 911!
- Q: what is the difference between mitral valve prolapes and mitral regurgitation?
- Your okorder /
- Q: I got a 2012 peterbilt 386 ...it just came back from the shop a few day ago to get injectors 4 and 5 looked at and repaired ....I'm getting a fault code for injector spill valve and a engine light ....I tried resetting the computer to get rid of the code but that's not it ... uld timeing of this cause the problem ...but other than that it runs like a champ so what could I do to fix this is it time cause I did probably get re timed when they repaired it
- The fault for the spill valve is not something you can correct with timing. When they repaired or replace injectors they need to be programed into the computer so they match the other injectors. The spill valve is in the injector and is there to return unneeded fuel back to tank. If this valve does not work you could be over fueling or run the risk of fuel cooking in the injector making a mess of the spray pattern. It should be telling you which injector is throwing the code and if it is one of the two that were worked on take it back.
- Q: It is burning oil, so that means oil is getting into the combustion chambers....but im not exactly sure which piece has gone bad? or for that matter what the valve guides are in the first place. Could the lifters have gone bad too? Can someone tell me what piece is most likely the cause for the oil leak into the chambers and then a price of how much it would cost to have it fixed. When i start the car it blows a puff and then settles down and then when im at a stop light and push the accelerator it blows a puff and then more or less settles down...sometimes it keeps going for a while. My mechanic put an additive in the oil called stop the smoke or something, and i know that that causes the seals to expand...and it has helped. So. I need someone to give me an overall diagnosis and price range. My mechanic is reluctant to have me do the work, im guessing cause its expensive...but i would rather pay 1000 dollars then buy a new car.
- yes we would love to help, except you gave us zero information, in order to even begin to guess whats going on, you need to explain a whole bunch of information if you want any help, like what year make model of car, engine mileage on engine, and any other things that have been done to a coar that you know of. If you have a chevy 350 it was pretty normal to get a puff of smoke out if it when it was cold, this was from worn valve stem seals, and sometimes the design of the seal was a problem, like the umbrella seal for late 80s early 90s, even new some got a few drips of oil and blow a puff of smoke, you say its smoking out the tail pipe, ok when only when cold? or all the time , or under acceleration? when, that is the first clue we need to know ok?
- Q: i need to know the setting of the valve and a little advice on the up and down of the valves
- Intake and exhaust valves have different clearances.Which one?To check the clearance- the cam must be in the proper position.Then you take a feeler gauge and measure the distance-you have to do this to each valve before you can remove the cam to make an adjustment.Under the cam lobe-on top of the valve there is a can that rides up against the cam lobe.Between the inside of the can and the top of the valve there is a little round pocket that has a shim that looks like a watch battery.These shims come in different sizes--replacing them with a different size is how you make the adjustment.This is not anything that I would try to do without a manual--things can go bad real quick in the adjustment stage.Not a job for a 1'st timer but you can learn if you watch someone doing it.
- Q: I got new sprinkler valves put in (Rainbird anti-siphon kind). Every time a valve shuts off, it makes a loud squeak, kind of like plastic rubbing (NOT a bang like water hammering). Is this normal and will it go away? If not, what could be the problem? This is annoying because the sound can be heard in the house as it echoes through the pipes.
- As the valve shuts down, the diaphragm will vibrate as the pressure changes from one side to the other, then it will Thump as it seals. This is normal. However, to isolate the squeak, you may check to see if there is a 1(backflow preventer installed, 2) (if built into the valves) the variable pressure screw on the top of the valve is set correctly. The variable pressure screw usually has a cross top handle (older ones had a dial) and should be set so that on a high pressure line, it shuts down fairly quickly. If this is open all of the way, it can cause the diaphragm to squeal by slowing the internal pressure change to shut it down.
- Q: I need to make a ball valve that will open with no manual force but by a motor of some sort to spin it and release water. how do i make a ball valve controlled by preferably a motor or other CHEAP device. I need to do this for less that 20$
- It's a lot easier and cheaper to buy the valve at a hardware store than make it. You can probably get a motor and gear train from a hobby store. If it doesn't absolutely have to be a ball valve, you can get electric sprinkler valves from just about any home and garden supply. They're specifically designed to control water flow. Just hook it up to a power source and you're good to go. Addition: Just remembered, you can also get battery operated water control valves that connect between a faucet and a hose. I'm pretty sure they're ball valves internally. Prices vary, so shop around. Depending on how fancy you want it to be, they go for about $5.00 and up.
- Q: How are they different from other valves ?
- Test valves are typically needle valves but I have seen some occasional usage of 1/4 to 1/2 inch globe valves and ball valves used as test valves for sampling. Pressure gauge installations may have test valves installed just below them. The valves are used to isolate the gauge from the system pressure, a second valve is used to vent the trapped pressure so the gauge could return to zero. The same vent valve could then be used to attach a calibrated pressure source to the pressure gauge so as to check (qualify) the gauge reading against the standard. This was done on select gauges where a quick in place qualification could be done without the need to physically remove the gauge from the gauge board. I have also seen test valve setups in systems using a three way valve in a setup to scavenge the sensing line with a clean fluid. This is done when dealing with a slurry which could block the sensing line suach as in a quick lime system. Clean water would flush the line before and after a reading so as to not trap material in the sensing line which could build up and block or cause a false reading. Test valve location also gives a handy mean to obtain a sample of the process fluid.
- Q: Why can't i start my valve?
- what kind of valve are you talking about? A Valvo?? LOL...No really, what kind of valve? Valves do not start, once the engine is fired up then the valve becomes a part of the engines 4 cycle system of opening and closing to allow fuel and air to enter inside the combustion chamber and ignite the fuel to keep the engine running. good luck..
- Q: Its a 1981 Monte Carlo SS with a GM 350 crate motor. There is oil all over the heads valve covers. It isn't my car, but I was thinking of buying it..Thank you.
- It needs a new valve cover gasket which is cheap and easy to replace. Gaskets dry up and break from heat and age. Then all that sloshing oil underneath gets out. Loose valve cover bolts can also be a problem. And the valve cover may have been damaged by someone over-tightening the bolts. This thing is a 100 in human years. What happened to the valve cover gasket (rot from heat and age) is just one example of what has probably happened to many things on it - other gaskets, seals, hoses, tires and belts. Have seller prove he did a timing belt change when needed. It needed that at about 100k or 11 years ago. If seller can prove it, then guess what? It now needs another timing belt.
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High Performance Safty Valve
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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