grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100 System 1

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

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Loading Port:: Qingdao

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 100 set

Supply Capability:: 50000 set/month

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Product Details

Basic Info.

Certification:ECE

Type:Brake Discs

Material:Non-Asbestos

Position:Front

Export Markets:Global

Product Description

Brake disc
Standard: E-MARK
Origin: China
Features:
1) Hardness: 180-240HB
2) Long service life
3) 100% crucial dimension inspection
4) 100% qualification
5) Low noise
Standard for casting is G3000. Standard for machining is SAE-J431.
We use AIMCO# and OEM# and right now we have more than 1, 900 items that can be supplied to the aftermarket

AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#	AIMCO#
3102	3438	5361	5588	8978	31163	31353
3104	3441	5362	5590	8979	31164	31354
3106	3444	5364	5593	8980	31165	31355
3107	3445	5365	5594	8981	31166	31356
3108	3446	5366	5595	8983	31168	31357
3110	3451	5367	5596	8984	31169	31358
3111	3452	5368	5598	8985	31170	31359
3112	3455	5370	5599	8986	31172	31360
3114	3457	5371	5601	8987	31173	31361
3116	3458	5372	5606	8988	31174	31362
3117	3459	5373	5607	8989	31175	31363
3118	3460	5374	5610	8990	31176	31364
3120	3462	5375	5614	8991	31177	31365
3122	3464	5376	5617	8992	31178	31366
3123	3466	5377	5618	8993	31179	31367
3124	3467	5378	5703	8994	31181	31368
3125	3468	5379	5704	8995	31182	31369
3126	3469	5381	5712	8996	31184	31370
3130	3470	5382	8101	8997	31185	31371
3132	3471	5383	8105	8998	31186	31372
3133	3472	5386	8106	8999	31188	31373
3134	3477	5387	8108	31000	31189	31374
3136	3479	5388	8109	31001	31192	31375
3137	3480	5389	8124	31002	31193	31376
3138	3482	5393	8141	31003	31197	31377
3140	3483	5394	8146	31004	31198	31378
3141	3485	5395	8147	31005	31199	31379
3146	3487	5396	8160	31006	31201	31380
3150	3488	5397	8163	31007	31202	31381
3151	3489	5398	8171	31008	31203	31382
3152	3497	5399	8173	31009	31204	31383
3153	3498	5401	8179	31010	31205	31384
3154	3502	5404	8190	31011	31208	31385

grind disc brake for NISSAN Teana oem:43206-9W100

Q: I have a 2007 Yamaha R6s. It has 4000 miles on it. I have done the 1st 600 mile service and the 4000 mile service. The dealership didn't say anything about the brakes when I picked up the bike. The brakes feel just as good as when I first got it. I was looking around and dediced to check out the front brake pads. It seems like they are thin. Is this how they are supposed to look? How long do front motorcycle brake pads last on an average.: how long is a peice of string mate? ,now fast? ,on motorway or round town? ,how hard do you brake into corners ?,i would not expect more than 18 months if used regularly especialy with wavy discs as these are intended to stop pads glazing but allso decrease pad life ,a pad usualy have 7 to 10mm of material on them if less than 2mm replace asap

Q: they say that the front brake is like 70% and the back is 30 (or maybe 60/40) but anyways, which one would you normally use to slow down? i would guess the back one would be slowing down and the front would be for full stops? i dont own a bike yet, but of course, im curious and doing research.oh yea, if you slam on the back brake (the one near the footrest) your wheel wouldnt stop right? just slow down?: When it comes to braking power, old front engined, rear wheel drive drum brake cars were usually approximately 75% front, 25% rear. Front engined, front wheel drive cars are more like 80-20 (that's why you don't want to swap proportioning valves between the two. Most bikes with front discs are more like 90-10. When was the last time you saw someone do a stoppie with an old drum braked bike? Scooter made some good points, but telling you to apply both brakes evenly is wrong (sorry scooter). How much brake you use at either end depends upon the particular braking situation. Often times, in low speed braking like in town I use the front brake only. On a gravel road I may use the rear brake only and never touch the front. Compared to a moderate stop, in hard braking I use more front that rear and the harder the stop, the more front/less rear. People who use too little front and too much rear brake go through rear brake pads sooner than front pads. If you're braking correctly, you will normally wear out the fronts sooner than the rear, even with double discs. People who don't use enough front brake also take much farther to stop than they should, increasing their chances or rear ending someone or running off the road. One suggestion, don't use much brake when cornering hard. You're already using much of the available traction the tires have and you don't want to add even more load. Also, find a clean deserted parking lot and practice braking, especially the front. Going slowly, grab a handful of front brake and make the front tire bark or even lock up. Going slowly, you'll be able to catch yourself and not dump the bike. Keep increasing your speed and learn to make the front tire howl but not lock up. Then worry about using the rear brake in conjunction with the front.

Q: When I press my front brakes down the first cm or so doesnt do anything. Then I can feel the lever kind of jump down another cm or so and the brakes jerk a little bit. When I first got it, the brake lever and brakes were smooth all the way through? What do you think is wrong?Also when I shift gears it sounds kind of rough, not really clanky, just rough. Is that because I have a dry clutch system as opposed to a wet clutch?It is a 2005 Suzuki gs500f: Sounds like a stuck piston in the brake caliper to me... Not something you want to mess with, since 70% of your stopping power is in the front brakes... Or, could be that your pads are so worn out and in need of replacement that your master cylinder is nearly empty of fluid...Id replace the apds, and while at it, I would be checking the pistons to see if they are moving freely of not... Could be air too, but I would wonder how the air got in there if it was fine before and you havent done anything to it yet... I wasnt aware that bike had a dry clutch...Sounds like you are low on oil and probably need it changed desperately... Heck, if you thought you had a dry clutch, chances are youve never changed the oil either...

Q: motorcycle question?: Not a real good long distance bike.More of an urban pub crawler.

Q: Why open the motorcycle before the first brake start: Because she was afraid of speeding ah.

Q: Old motorcycle brakes are not good, single brake plate okay, is there any better way: Change the brake pads is the best way

Q: i drive stick and i never downshift rev match i just for example if im going 65 on 5th gear and break i just break to 20 shift it in the gear i think it needs to be , now with a motorcycle lets say lets say im going 65 on 5 gear ,if i want to break can i do the same thing? also can i break by breaking then when im about to stop put the clutch in and when what s stop hold the clutch in and shift to neutral or 1 gear with out letting the clutch go?: You should learn downshifting and rev match at some points on your route/destination. It makes your driving easier in some circumstances. I think driving stick is more about timing, so use the time to learn how to downshift and rev match.

Q: Upshift, downshift when the clutch should not quickly pinch loose?: Hanging file holding the clutch, hanging finished! Return the same file, one holding the clutch, on the step back

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