• Good quality Black Annealed Iron Wire System 1
  • Good quality Black Annealed Iron Wire System 2
  • Good quality Black Annealed Iron Wire System 3
Good quality Black Annealed Iron Wire

Good quality Black Annealed Iron Wire

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Black Annealed Iron Wire, also called black wire, comes in the form of coil wire or cut wire.

Mostly used in construction or daily use as binding wire.


Black annealed wire, Soft annealed wire
MaterialLow carbon higher quality steel rod, Q195, Q235
Wire DiameterBWG11-19  4.0MM-0.8MM
Tensile strength30-55kg/mm2
Packing10-200kg/coil plastic inside and hassian outside
Optional Information
HS Code7217100000 Wire of Iron or Non-alloy Steel
PaymentL/C or T/T
LoadingTianjin port
OriginChina
Minimum Order20 Ton



Q: Hi,I have an issue with wiring in house. This is in Paris, France. I will share a foto so you can have a clearer picture what my question is.
I'm not sure of your electrical system over there (except that it's 50HZ) The green/yellow wire is probably the ground (see which one is screwed into the frame of the oven to be sure) the other two shouldn't matter because it's probably a 240V unit, right?
Q: From my ceiling fan I have the following wires: green, white, blue and blackFrom my ceiling I have a bunch of wire in each of these colours: brown, red and orange.Which wires do I connect with each other??
These are all probably hot-side wires. If you have the knowledge and the tools, find out which wire or wires is/are hot in the box with the switch off. If you have no idea what I am talking about, you REALLY need to find someone who knows electricity. BTW, the wires in the fan are quite simple to decode. The green wire is the ground and attaches to either the box or a ground wire in the box. The white wire is the neutral and attaches to the white wires in the box. The black is the hot lead for the fan and the blue is the hot lead for the light. These two can be combined if you have only one wall switch. Where they attach in the box will be determined by which hot lead is switched. I can probably guess how the box and switch are wired but I may be wrong and that would be dangerous. Call an electrician so you don't burn your house down.
Q: what size wiring should i use to wire a plug in for a dryer?
You will need 4 wires to meet current electrical codes..2 black or red wires. (ungrounded conductors). 1 white wire. (neutral or grounded conductor). 1 green insulated or bare copper wire. (equipment ground). Both ungrounded conductors on a 2-pole, 30 amp breaker or fuse. A 30 amp, 250 volt rated receptacle is also required..The dryer will work with 3 wires, but is not up to code, because of bonding/grounding issues
Q: I am replacing old 3 button (vertically aligned) light switch. There is 1 thick wire wrapped in white, 1 thick wire wrapped in black and 4 thin wires wrapped in black. I attached the white wire to the common wire screw and put the remaining wires around the screws. I am also replacing a toggle switch that will control the vanity lights above the sink. There are 4 clumps of wire coming through the box. The copper grounds are all twisted together, and there are multiple strands of white covered wire twisted together and then the 5 black cover wires and 1 white covered wires. After hooking it all up, it doesn't do anything. No lights, fan or heat lamp. What did I do wrong?
Light Switch Common Wire
Q: i got a fi bl 15dual 2 subwoofer. im wiring it down to 1 ohm.now for the problem. lets say im wiring the positive terminals together. am i suppose to wire it all with positive wire or can i also use negative copper wire? i used two positive wires and one negative wire to hook up the three positive terminals. is this bad? do i need to make all of them positive silver wires?
ok well either red or + is positive and black or - is negitive, the problem i have is you said you had 3 positives and one negitive on a dual coil sub,?? if you mean you ran all 3 wires to your amp then its wrong, if you mean you ran 1 wire to your positive,1 wire to your negative, and 1 wire from the other positive and negative together, then you have gone up to 4ohm and not down to 1, you should have 2 positives and 2 negatives, hooked together to make 1 positive and 1 negative as for the wire colors, they sometimes differ so you can tell them apart, providing your the one who screwed them to the amp, i run mine copper positive and silver negative, but each to there own.
Q: Question:What is the point of new wires? Everyone keeps saying thicker wire. What does that thicker wire do? Does it carry a different force? I thought the ligature bands is what gives the wire the force? I'm kind of confused!Also, do you get a thicker wire everytime? Is this thicker wire visibly thicker and noticable?Does the thicker wire cause a drastic diff in pain?Thank you for your help and answering my question about my previous question.
No, you can't physically see the difference in the thicker wire, but you can feel the difference when they first put it in. It will feel kind of heavier and tighter. It won't last long though...maybe 2 or 3 days and you'll get used to it. No, you won't get a thicker wire at every visit.
Q: Does anyone know what color the neutral safety wire is on a 1995 suburban? The one in the ignition harness.
It is usually white, or sometimes gray.
Q: im installing an amp and i have no clue what to do with thw power wire.... I read to cut open my steros power wire (usually the blue) and wrap my power wire around it... I found the blue wire but there was a tag... Caution Remote output only... This is not the wire for power supply. please connect this wire to the remote for the amplifier... Does this mean i just connect this wire directly to my amp?
ok wait hold up. so the only wire that should be hooked from the amp to the headunit is your speaker wires, remote turn on wire, and your rca cables. ....What you need to do is get the power cable(usually red) run it from positive on the battery to the POS on your amp. next put your ground wire from the GND on the amp to bare metal on your cars chasis.
Q: don't say red because there is no red wire in the 3 wire radio assembly that came stock. there is a yellow wire, black with stripe, and gray with stripe
There is no Accessory wire, but only one yellow switched power wire hot in run. I usually steal accessory power in an F-body from the cigar lighter harness. One of the other wires, I forget which, is hot with the dash lights. Isolate it.
Q: Hi, I've got two new appliances (range hood fan/light and bathroom exhaust fan). Both are installed but not wired. My house is older, build in 1940s and the previous appliances were wired using the existing copper wiring which runs through the house. I'd like to electrically install these new appliances but am concerned about connecting the new appliance wiring (aluminum wiring i think?) to the copper wiring in the house.Is it safe to pigtail these two wires together? Or is there a better, more safe method?Thanks
The appliance wiring is not aluminum, tinned (annealed) copper. It is safe to connect to the copper building wire. Theoretically if you scrape the wire you could skin the tin off and see the copper, but never been able to successfully accomplish that. If you really are worried it using an antioxidant will not hurt anything, but really it won't help. If you look at the cord you will find various letters, if you look up those letters on the net you will find that some have rubber. Rubber is corrosive to copper so the wire is covered in tin.

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