• Galvanized Iron Wires For Gabions System 1
Galvanized Iron Wires For Gabions

Galvanized Iron Wires For Gabions

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Galvanized Wire/Galvanized Steel Wire/ Gavanized Iron Wire

Diatmeters:0.15mm-6mm

Application

Weaving, braiding, fencing, cable armoring, knitting, tie wire, for redrawn, for binding or forming etc.

Material

low carbon steel wire

Diameter

0.15mm~6.00mm

Tensile strength

350-500MPA, or higher

Zinc coating

Min 12g/m2, min 25g/m2, min 200g/m2,min 300g/m2,610g/m2

Surface treatment

Hot dipped or electro galvanized

Packing

On spools

In small coils of 25-50kg/coil, 10kg/coil

In rosette coil of 100-800kg/coil

Standard

ASTM 641, EN10257-1& EN10244-2

All can be produced according to customers’ requirements.

Q: Basically I have a 3000watt amp, and I need to buy the right wires. Would I still manage to get the full power out of the amplifier with 1000w speaker wiring kit or do I need to buy a 3000w speaker wiring kit?If so, where is the difference with the higher wattage wiring kits.Thanks
3000w amps are rare and expensive. Is that peak power or rms? Can you provide the brand/model? If it's ACTUALLY 3000w rms you need a high output electrical system with a custom alternator and probably a 2nd battery, and at a MINIMUM you need a GOOD quality 1/0 awg wiring kit. On the other hand - if this is 3000w peak the actual power (rms) could be as low as a few hundred watts. Amps this size will run w/o a problem with most stock electrical systems. A good 4 awg wiring kit would probably be more than adequate. Many lower level brands use bogus peak ratings to make their equipment appear to be more powerful than it actually is. Wiring is based simply on the thickness of the copper. Some of the cheap brands are less than honest about the size of their wiring. They get around advertising regulations by only using the word gage or gauge, not the wire standard AWG. If the wire you use is too small it will have excessive voltage drop so the amp will not be able to produce the power it would otherwise. More importantly, in extreme cases if the wire isn't fused properly it can get hot, melt the insulation off and become a fire hazard.
Q: I am moving a stove that has four wires - bare copper (ground), red, white, and black.The location I am putting it in only has three wires - red, white, and black.Can I just ignore the ground on the new location since it doesn't have one? Or should I cross one of the other wires with the ground?
Your four-wire stove has a terminal where you can connect the bare/green and white wires together, most have a jumper to connect the two terminals. You don't want to leave any wires unconnected. The other two wires (red black) are connected the same way between 3-wire and 4-wire units. You'll have to buy a 3-wire cable for your stove to plug it into the 3-wire receptacle. The new code requires 4-wire connections. The bare/green wire and the white neutral wire are run back to the circuit breaker panel separately at which point the are connected together on a buss bar.
Q: My tail light work but when i hit the breaks everything go out. Any answers? Standard 4 wire
you might have a broken wire check the plug to see if the prongs aren't broken or damaged also check bulbs
Q: What does the quot;Hstand for in quot;AWG 34Hwire?Also, would Heavy Poly Nylon magnetic wire be considered enameled?
Magnet wire is often called varnished or enameled, but it is actually insulated with a thin coating of insulating material designed specifically for the purpose. I assume that heavy poly nylon material is one of those materials. The H is probably the temperature class of the insulation. Class H insulation is rated to operate at up to 180 degrees C. Edit 1 The H could also stand for heavy as in the heavy build or double build terminology used to describe thicker than standard insulation. It is part of a specific manufacturer's catalog number rather than a part of the American Wire Gauge (AWG) designation. Manufacturer's sell many different varieties of magnet wire. The manufacturer's literature and NEMA or IEC standards provide details regarding the insulation materials used and the electrical and mechanical characteristics of the wire.
Q: i bought a wiring kit off OKorder it was a bullz 4 gauge kit. and i am running a rockford 500.2 n its rated for 700+ watts. so do you think my cheaper wiring kit is affecting performance? should i go snag up some bigger power wire for more power to run through it or is tht not how it wokrs?
you should add a capacitor to your system. a 5 fared should be good. it is a reserve for when the bass hits. it's less stress on your alternator and battery. and you won't get the headlight dimming affect when you have it cranked up. ask your local car audio shop. you should be good with 4 gauge.
Q: is there a way to wire an exit sign to a plug for an outlet receptacle?
First off, Aurthur A's answer is composed of several NEC violations; he may be going to electrical hell, if he doesn't shape up. Second, you did not say if this is a required exit sign. If it is, then you will need a licensed electrical contractor to install it; as most jurisdictions will not allow work in anything but the owner's principle dwelling to be done by unlicensed personel.
Q: thin wire to make fishing tackle that sharks cannot bite
I okorder /
Q: I have eight speaker wires, I can figure that out on my own. I also have a red/blue stripe, black/red stripe, black/white stripe, and blue. Which ones are the power wires?
you will need a DVM, to find what is what. Check the fuse box, and make sure the fuse is good, and search for the constant power.Set the meter to 20V. I like to stick the ground on my meter, in the ignition where the key goes. Then find the switched, key on wire. obviously, you'll have to move the ground on the meter for that. Don't forget to solder and use heat shrink tubing, or red and blue butt connectors, and heat shrink, or tape them well. Then set the meter to ohms, or the omega pic on the meter. once you find a resistance for each speaker, pop it with a 9V battery, not a AA, as both terminals are on top. then when you hear which speaker pops, wire it accordingly. Good Luck!
Q: I have two white wires left...one is a speaker wire and the other is the constant 12v wire and I don't know which is which. They are the same thickness so unless one of you guys know I'm pretty much screwed here. Also, I have a black ground wire sticking out of the wiring harness and the ground wire from my stereo harness doesn't look like they should attach to each other. This is my first install and I've got everything else hooked up. Just need some pointers.
How would we be able to tell you the difference between two identical white wires? Use the one on the left? Use a volt meter, and find out which wire has voltage on it. A speaker wire won't test with voltage, a constant power wire will. You can always connect the head unit's ground wire to a metal point on the sub-dash. Edit: if you don't want to use the factory ground wire, it doesn't really need to be connected to anything. I suppose you could attach it to the same spot you connect the head unit's ground wire.
Q: i have a 97 chevy blazer. My fuel pump went so i purchased a new one. i did not know that the company changed the wiring on the fuel pump..all the wires are 2gether in the wiring harness and all i have to do is cut off the old harnss and wire the new one in its place. Im not sure exactly how to wire it. What do I do? do i just strip wires and twist them or what?
it truly is a typical issue with older Chevy's. the glaring answer (the only my pal chosen for his van) is basically to maintain the tank finished (or as close to as you are able to) and use the mileage holiday meter (if it has one) or the odometer to Gage how on the breaking point of empty you're able to correctly be. Admittedly it is the cheapskate thank you to bypass, yet whilst in any different case it runs properly it truly is a robust answer. a real fix could be value prohibitive, and you're able to spend the money on a stereo somewhat:)

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