• Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized System 1
  • Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized System 2
  • Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized System 3
Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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1.Structure of Galvanized Iron Wire Description

Galvanized Iron Wire is made with choice mild steel wire rod, through wire drawing, wire galvanizing and other processes. It has the characteristics of thick zinc coating, good corrosion resistance, firm zinc coating, etc. 

Galvanized Iron Wire mainly used in construction, express way fencing, binding of flowers and wire mesh weaving. Galvanized iron wire according to manufacturing technique, it includes hot-dipped galvanized iron wire and electro galvanized iron wire.

 

2.Main Features of Galvanized Iron Wire

• Use widely

• Corrosion- resistant

• Practical use

• Beauty Surface

• Versatile

Durable

• Widely Use

 

3. Galvanized Iron Wire Images

Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized

Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized


4.Galvanized Iron Wire Specification

 Galvanized Iron Wire/Low carbon steel wire/Hot Dipped or Electro Galvanized

5.FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely

How about your company

Our main products are BWG 6 to BWG 22 hot dipped iron wire, electro Galvanized Iron Wire, barbed iron wire, hard drawing wire, black/soft annealed wire and so on. We also offer all kinds of wire meshes for customers all over the world. We are a big professional manufacturer of kinds of iron wires and wire meshes. We have been in this line for more than ten years, and exported 100000 MT iron wire annually.

We have 15 Straight-line Drawing Machines and 2 producing lines for electro galvanizing and 5 producing lines for hot dipped galvanizing. We are expanding our productive capacity due to heavy orders and market demanding and will have another 5 production lines in the year 2008. We have wire drawing workshops, hot dipped / electro galvanizing workshops, cleaning workshops and quality test workshops in the factory.

 

Why buy from our company?

1. Advanced process equipment

2.  Competitive price and high quality

3.  Excellent after-sale service

4.  Attractive design and various styles

5.  Powerful technology R&D team

6.  Strict quality assurance system and perfect testing means

7.  Delivery on time

8.  Have a good reputation in the domestic and overseas.

 

How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of Galvanized Iron Wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served.


Q: I am doing wiring in my shed on preexisting light fixtures and outlets. the wiring that was disconnect from that carried the electricity to it. What I am trying to do is have all the light fixtures work of an extension cord. I have another extension wire connected to that with the +, - and 0 showing. The fixtures have 3 wires coming out of them what I think to be the power in, power out, and switch. On the fixture on the end I connected my extension cord thing and it work, BUT only that one. The rest of the fixtures did not work, I do see anything wrong. What I thought was that I was connecting to the switch wire so I changed it and it just buzzed with blue light. What is going on?
the rest of your light fixtures maybe wired through a switch. you would have to hook your extension cord to the switch but you also need to connect the common neutrals and grounds to the cord as well.
Q: I'm trying to tighten the electrical wires on my car.Do I just use pliers and twist them tighter?Can I use my hands?-tightening the wires on my ignition switch and starterNeed to know asapNo B.S. just need to know how
Nuts hold wire eyelets on threaded stud shafts and you tighten the nut (not too tight). Plastic connectors with metal contact pins just need to be removed and reconnected to make a better connection. House wiring uses wire nuts that screw on to the twisted ends of the wires to be joined. Some eyelet terminals are held by a screw you tighten. Sometimes you can permanently connect a twisted and soldered wire jumper to make sure two wires are connected together.
Q: I made a kill switch for my car. All I need to do now is cut the wire that goes into my engine control module and join it with the switch I made. Would it be fine if I just use wire nuts or some sort of tape to join the wires instead of soldering? The instructions say quot;Step 6: Attach the killswitch wires one to each side of the wire you just cut. Step 7: Tape up all new connection.quot;It says to tape the new connections, but should I use exactly?
Sure thing. Wire nuts work fine. I've used them a bunch on my project cars. However, if you want a connection that won't be affected by water (rain and/or humidity) and a connection that is permanent (won't come loose) use automotive crimp type connectors covered with heat shrink tubing or liquid electrical tape.
Q: I have a 98 oldsmobile intrigue. Stock radio was taken out a while ago so all there is are wire hanging out. I don't know what I need, a wire connector or wire harness. Honestly don't know what's what. Also need to know how to use the wire connector/harness.and what goes to what
those wires you see are factory wiring for the factory radio. if your putting a aftermarket radio in it go to radio shack and ask for plug-ins for your car.with those plug-in all you do is hook the wiring from your aftermarket radio to them then plug them into the factory harness.
Q: i have some blue speaker wire in my wiring kit for my subs but where do i start it out from my head deck when i start to wire it all together.
The remote wire is for the remote turn on for the amp. It connects to the blue/white wire from the head unit (aftermarket) to the REM terminal on the amp. If your using a stock head unit, you can run the fused (1 amp, added to the blue wire from the fuse panel) blue wire tapped from a fuse that only has power when the car is on to a switch. From the other side of the switch run the same blue wire to the REM terminal on the amp. This allows for full control and you never have to worry about forgetting to turn off the amp.
Q: im installing an amp and i have no clue what to do with thw power wire.... I read to cut open my steros power wire (usually the blue) and wrap my power wire around it... I found the blue wire but there was a tag... Caution Remote output only... This is not the wire for power supply. please connect this wire to the remote for the amplifier... Does this mean i just connect this wire directly to my amp?
ok wait hold up. so the only wire that should be hooked from the amp to the headunit is your speaker wires, remote turn on wire, and your rca cables. ....What you need to do is get the power cable(usually red) run it from positive on the battery to the POS on your amp. next put your ground wire from the GND on the amp to bare metal on your cars chasis.
Q: exact wiring
1995-96 Dodge Dakota Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information Constant 12V+ Pink/Black Ignition Switch Harness Starter Yellow Ignition Switch Harness Ignition Dark Blue Ignition Switch Harness Ignition 2 Black Ignition Switch Harness Accessory Black/Orange Ignition Switch Harness Tach Gray Coil Neutral Safety Wire Brown/Yellow Driver's Side of Trans. Brake Switch White or White/Tan Brake Switch Trunk Pin n/a Parking Lights Black/Yellow Light Switch Head Lamp Light Green Light Switch Hood Pin n/a Door Trigger Yellow (-) Driver's Pin Switch Door Lock Orange/Purple Driver's Kick Panel Door Unlock Pink/Purple Reverse Polarity Horn Wire Dark Green/Red (-) Fuse Panel Windows Up LF=Light Blue, RF=Brown/White Windows Down LF=White, RF=Purple/White
Q: where also is fourth wire hooked in?
If you really have a 3-pole 4 wire system, the 4th wire is the neutral. (The other 3 wires are the phase wires.) It is much more common to have 2 phases with a neutral and a ground for a house. In either case the 4th wire connects to the neutral bus. How do you know which wire is the 4th wire? Test the voltages between the wires. You will have a bolt of lightning, if you connect the wrong wire to the neutral. Luckily, touching the incoming wires to your house is very rarely lethal.
Q: I'm doing a science experiment and I don't know why resistance decreases as the diameter of the wire increases. Any help is appreciated.
Basically a thick wire behaves as a lot of thin wires. Comparing one thin wire to a whole bunch, it is easy to see a difference. How this is explained in simple terms is that there are more paths for the electrons to take in a thicker wire, instead of them all being forced though the same space in the thin wire. You could compare it to cars on a motorway, the more lanes there are the more cars will be able to travel on it. A single lane would get blocked up if all cars in say four lanes tried to travel down it. Hope that explained things clearly!
Q: How do I connect a speaker wire with four wires (white, black, red, and green) to the back of speakers with only two connections (red and white)?
Don't quite understand what you are trying to do. Speakers only require 2 wire for connection a positive and negative (usually in red and white or black). Receivers only have 2 wires per speakers a positive and a negative (usually in red and white or black). Your cable has four wires in red, white, black and green, you use only two wires per speaker in either combination of colors. This cable is designed to have 2 set of speakers, the left and right.

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