Concentric Butterfly Valve ISO5752

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Features:

1. Small in size, light in weight, easy installation and maintenance.

2. Simple and compact construction, quick 90 degree on-off operation.

3. Minimized operating torque, energy saving.

4. Flow curve tending to straight line, excellent regulation performance.

5. Long service life, standing the test of tens thousands opening/closing operations.

6. BUbbles-tight sealing with no leakage ubder the pressure test.

7. Wide selection of materials, applicable to various medium.

Material List:

No.	Part Name	Material
1	Body	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel/Cast Iron/Ductile Iron/ Al-Bronze
2	Disc	Al-Bronze/CF8M/Ductile iron/WCB
3	Seat	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
4	Stem	Carbon Steel/Stainless Steel314/Stainless Steel316
5	Bushing	PTFE/Lubricating
6	O ring	EPDM/PEFE/Buna/NBR/Hypalon
7	Pin	SS316/SS416/SS304

Q: okay, where the dome is on the head (where the flat part of the valves sit) the intake is uneven and the air+gas mixture escapes threw the open space when the piston goes up into the compression stage, and ignites shooting flames out of my exhaust port. the space is small but u can see light threw it when the valve sits there. Would some kind of Liquid metal work? or gas+heat resistant epoxy work to take the place of the missing space? I would file it but that would not be precise and time consuming, and i would buy a new head for $150, but the dealer doubles that price! and no way am i paying $300 for a new head. any comments would be well appreciated!: Without knowing actually how big the space is, I'm hampered in my answer. If the valve isn't bent, you may be able to lap the valve and seat. Your service manual should have directions on how to do this. Or you may even be able to grind it out with valve-grinding compound. I've gotten away with using valve-grinding compound heavily in some cases that probably should have been lapped. I put the valve in it's guide and attach a rubber hose and drill to the end of the valve. Then, after applying the compound to the seat and valve, I spin the valve while gently pressing on it's head. I keep adding compound as needed. I've done several this way with no problems. But if you have a big gouge you will probably need to get a lapper.

Q: I have a 3-circuit sprinkler system in my yard (built by me, last year). I discovered this week that I overtightened the connection between the valves and the downstream pipes, and 2 of the three valves are cracked, and leaking, at the connection. I replaced all 3 valves, and now I need to reconnect them to the supply. But this means I'm working backward - when I bult the system last year, I worked downstream - I built the manifold first, connected the valves, then the remainder of each branch. Now, I have to make the new manifold fit the valves, and naturally, they don't line up perfectly. Any tips/tricks on connecting valves in this situation? Is there such a thing as flexible pipe that can withstand continuous pressure? I'm using unions at both ends of each valve to help things go together/come apart more easily.: valve manifolds are something that requires practice and experience. i used to struggle with them at work until i did a good bit of them. 3 zones is not that many valves so it shouldnt be too difficult. if they wont line up exactly right, i would recommend adding longer peices of pipe to the mainline side of the vavles and re routing the supply line futher back and you will have more room to flex the pipe and vavles into the Tees and 90s. do not use any form of flexible pipe on any mainline. you will regret it. lol the bigger the hole you dig will give you the most room and the more pipe, and room will give you more flexability to build the manifold. it is easier to connect the valves the way you did it first though, but you can do it either way. good luck and hope this helps

Q: what is a foot valve? how does it look? what is the application in petrochemical companies?: A foot valve is simply a check valve. It is common use in a piping system at the pump suction side. By placing it this way when the pump stops operating, fluid won't flow back into the lower reservoir and the suction side of the pump is always full of liquid.

Q: I just got my trumpet today.And its playing fine.Now its not playing.When i play im blowing air into it but its not going through.Its like im trying to blow air through solid meatel.and everytime in blow into it.The slide with the ring on it (sorry i just got the trumpet,im not really sure what the parts are) it keeps falling off.Its like its waay too loose.Help please: get it back to the store where you bought it or to a repair shop. This is a very unusual thing.

Q: Hi there - We have an old house with galvanized steel pipes. Our main water shut off valve leaks -- the leak is from the packing nut. A plumber came out yesterday and tightened it, and it now barely leaks at all, maybe one drip every 24-48 hours (which it probably has been doing for the 6 years we have lived here, we just didn't know when we bought the place). Rather than replacing the whole valve (which, apparently, has a high liklihood of breaking the pipes in the foundation, requiring jackhammering and whatnot), we are thinking of installing a new shut off valve higher up on the pipe, where I guess it's less likely to break. If we go for the second valve, is there a way to close up that old valve (hydraulic cement, tape, solder, etc.), so it doesn't leak at all? The tiny leak is coming from the stem of the handle - can we remove the handle and cap it off or something? (And thanks to those of you who answered my husband's question about the pipes yesterday!): There is a very simple fix to your problem. Get some teflon tape, turn off the valve, back off the packing nut all the way, twirl the tape into a thread (about 4 to 5), wrap it around the stem, reinstall the nut and snug it up. Done! While there is special graphite packing for this purpose, it is usually hard to find and works no better than the tape. You can apply a small amount of vasaline to the stem before you put on the tape to make the valve operate more easily. Only tighten the nut enough to keep it from dripping or it may become hard to open and close. You can easily add a second valve by removing the pipe above the old one and installing a piece of copper with a valve inline. Some will say you need to worry about electrolysis if you screw an adapter into the existing galvanized but I am sure you will replace the old pipe before that is an issue 20 years from now. Good Luck!

Q: the ac replacement valve seems to be leaking i was wondering what is the average cost of having it replaced..: The valve itself is only a couple dollars. Some shops have a tool that will let them replace a valve without dumping the charge but since its likely low you will likely also have to pay the regular AC service fee which is usually $50-100 plus parts and refrigerant.

Q: Sohc ZC (d15) honda I'm going to be painting my valve cover am I going to need new seals? What do I need to take it off and put it back on ? Please help I have the high temp sand paper all ready to go I just want to be ready: if i were you i would replace the gasket ! even if it don,t break taking it off it,s best to put a new gasket on when you pull the valve pan !

Q: Well I had a Anginogram that said I have Mitral Valve Stenosis with the LVEDP was Moderately Elevated and My Right Ventricular Moderately Elevated and My Right Atruim is Moderately Elevated what do all this mean I see my cardiologists in two weeks to go over things. Oh yes they don't say how much the Mitral Valve is narrow.: Mitral stenosis (MS) is narrowing of the mitral orifice impeding blood flow from the left atrium to the left ventricle. The (almost) invariable cause is rheumatic fever. Common complications are pulmonary hypertension, atrial fibrillation, and thromboembolism. Symptoms are those of heart failure; signs include an opening snap and a diastolic murmur. Diagnosis is by physical examination and echocardiography. Prognosis is good. Medical treatment includes diuretics, β-blockers or rate-limiting Ca channel blockers, and anticoagulants; effective treatment for more severe disease consists of balloon valvotomy, surgical commissurotomy, or valve replacement. The normal area of the mitral valve orifice is about 4 to 6 cm2. Under normal conditions, a normal mitral valve will not impede the flow of blood from the left atrium to the left ventricle during (ventricular) diastole, and the pressures in the left atrium and the left ventricle during diastole will be equal. The result is that the left ventricle gets filled with blood during early diastole, with only a small portion of extra blood contributed by contraction of the left atrium (the atrial kick) during late ventricular diastole. Patients with mitral stenosis prompts a series of hemodynamic changes that frequently cause deterioration of the patient's clinical status. A reduction in cardiac output, associated with acceleration of heart rate and shortening of the diastolic time, frequently leads to congestive heart failure. In addition, when AF sets in, systemic embolization becomes a real danger. Please undergo echocardiography test and check whether you have other heart defects such as mitral regurgitation and aortic insufficiency.

Q: I have a 97 ranger 4.0L that takes 10w-30 and I'm going to be changing the oil soon. It has some valve clatter I'm just wondering if I can use a thicker oil such as 15w-30 or maybe a 10w40?: Valves don't clatter. Sticking or collapsed hydraulic valve lifter do. The use of the normal viscosity 5W-30 full synthetic oil contains a heavy dose of detergents. If gum, varnish or sludge is an issue, repeated use it may quiet things down. This is the least expensive thing to try first. If that doesn't do the trick it's time to (easily) replace the sticking hydraulic valve lifters. Thicker molasses oil may insulate noise while it's cold and heavy but it will never fix the issue.

Q: Hello. I am interested in purchasing a Hydroclean Fill Valve for my toilet. Are these good fill valves? Thanks!: who cares, a toilet fill valve only costs a few bucks. as long as it opens and closes it's a good valve. if it only lasts for a year then it's a piece of junk and you should try another brand. it's not a major decision

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