• carbon Steel Rigging Hardware System 1
carbon Steel Rigging Hardware

carbon Steel Rigging Hardware

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China Main Port
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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin:Chongqing, China (Mainland)

  • Model Number:CHRH20101207

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Gunny bag,Carton or pallet
Delivery Detail:15days.

Specifications

Rigging Hardware
Stainless Steel AISI304 or AISI316; Self-color , Electric Galvanized , Hot Dip Galvanized
ISO9001:2008

Rigging Hardware

Material:  Carbon Steel and Stainless 304 or 316

Surface:  Self-color,   Galvanized , Hot dip Galvanized

Hooks

Links

Shackles

Load binders

Clips

Thimbles

Chain accessories

Eye bolts

Steel stick

S.S. products

Chain accessories

Blocks

Pipe fittings

Turn buckles

Q: I wired an outdoor lamp-post. I tested it before wiring it to the fuse box...and if I touch the lamp-post I feel the current (a slight shock). I will be using a ground fault breaker....so I assume if I wire it to that I am going to loose the connection. Any thoughts on what is wrong?
You likely scratched the wire somewhere. When I did an outdoor shed the wire made a corner on some metal and scratched the insulation. It is a leak rather than hooking up the wrong wire, otherwise you would have gotten more than a tingle. First I would examine everywhere the wire comes in contact with the post. Second Check all the connections to see if some were improperly taped, or the wire was cut when stripping.
Q: I just removed a Australian light switch that I've never seen before that controlled a bathroom ceiling fan and the bathroom light. (both buttons on a single panel switch)I have a black wire coming from the switch box that has 2 other black wires splitting out from the connection point, one of each going to the fan and the light. And a single black wire going to the ceiling fan and a red wire to the light.I'm just putting in your everyday off/on switch one for each the fan and the light. any help? what are the positive and negative wires?
If you are putting in two single pole switches, one for light and one for fan then each switch has two lugs. Take the two black wires that split from one connection point and tie one to one lug of a switch and tie the other black to one lug of the second switch. This will leave you with one remaining lug on each switch. Then tie the remaining black to the first switch and the red to the other switch.
Q: I need help installing a Pioneer DEH-P3700MP in a Saturn S Series 2001, the wiring harness does not fit and need to know how to connect the wires. Which wires go to what on the Saturn?
Go to the local stero shop(car audio) and get the adaptor harness for $10-20 bucks. It is the only way to do these without a full on wire diagram of the car and electrician skills which, by your question, I assume you aren't really good at...
Q: when we connect the amp wire to the car battery we first remove the negative side then connect the amp wire to the negative side and reconnect the negative battery wire thing. is this correct?
there should be 3 main connections other than the speaker outputs. one goes to the battery + (through a proper fuse), one going to a good ground, and the remote turn-on from your head unit (this is what turns the amp on and off with the head unit.) if hooked up properly, it will not drain your battery.
Q: sence my stock head unit has no remote wire, when I hook the amp up, will it still drain the battery? I have everything connected, but the deck does not have no remote wire, and if it does I have no idea how to locate it. I am worried it will continue to run the amp when the car is off and drain the battery. Am I worried for nothing? If it will continue to drain the battery, how do I prevent this from happening?
use a test light ($5), you just need to connect the remote wire to a wire that is only hot when the car is on, (like the ignition power wire -not constant- going to the radio) and on factory radios it is usually a wire that is made to send the signal to the power antenna
Q: ok i bought a cd player off of OKorder a couple weeks ago and i decided to save the money and do it myself, but me and my friends didnt get a connector for it so we decided to go old school and wire every wire, and now the problem is we dont know what wire goes with what. so i need a accurate wiring diagram of a 2002 v6 hyundai sonata, (car wires first) i hook the black with black for ground, orange with yellow for battery( which there is two oranges so i tried both and together) and yellow with red for accessory just to see if the cd player will turn on and it doesnt, so i need some help pretty bad, and i have checked the fuses ( audio one) any answer will be greatly appreciated,
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Yellow Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Red Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/Red Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White
Q: Why are some wires (especially thin ones, like ones connecting a battery pack in a toy) made up of many wires instead of just being one solid piece of metal?
1) it is more flexible than single wire of same resistance, that is you can bend it to more angle than it's counterpart single wire that would have same resistance. 2) AC current don't flow over whole cross section area of a wire but it flows more near/on outer surface of wire. So resistance is not a function(inversely proportional) of cross section area for AC current but surface area wich is more for for many wires cable than single wire cable for given weight of wire material and thus it will have lesser resistance. 3) it is more reliable, that is if one of many wire get beaked the wire will still work unlike single wire cable.
Q: I have a kicker cvr 12 inch 2 ohm dual voice coil sub (400 watts) and a kicker zx750 amp. how to wire?
wire it in series so you get a 4ohm load. not unless you could still return the sub and get the cvr with dual 4ohm voicecoils. then you can wire that in parallel to 2ohms and get the most out of your amp.
Q: Will you please remove any of the wires? The edge of the body, which is made of wire or what? Is it copper or iron?
In general, without power is not power, but like a small generator inside the copper wire continuously cutting magnetic lines under the condition of current will produce a certain direction, and the wood is not to produce electricity and friction sparks
Q: the wires that are in most electric appliances
Live = Brown wire Neutral = Blue wire Earth = Green/yellow wire NB Some one (he's removed his answer) implied that one terminal was called Positive. Please note that you do not have a Positive (or Negative)) wire/terminal on an AC mains system. Positive/Negative imply a DC system which is not extant in the UK/EU. (I believe Derby did have a DC system decades ago -very odd and wasteful!).

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