API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class
The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve
Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.
Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.
Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.
Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:
For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.
Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:
Standard Criteria | ASME/ANSI/API customize |
Pressure Rating | 150 Class 300 Class 600 Class 900 Class 1500 Class 2500 Class customize |
Valve Size | 50 mm 65 mm 80 mm 100 mm 125 mm 150 mm 200 mm 250 mm 300 mm 350 mm 400 mm 450 mm 500 mm 600 mm 650 mm 700 mm 750 mm |
2 inch 2.5 inch 3 inch 4 inch 5 inch 6 inch 8 inch 10 inch 12 inch 14 inch 16 inch 18 inch 20 inch 24 inch 26 inch 28 inch 30 inch customize | |
Actuator | Automatic customize |
Connection | Butt Welding Flange RF Flange RTJ customize |
1-Body Material | A216 WCB A351-CF8 A351-CF8M customize |
2-Seat ring | A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A105+13Cr Tool Steel+A105 customize |
3-Disc | Tool Steel+A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 A216 WCB+13Cr customize |
4-Arm | A351-CF8 A216 WCB A351-CF8M customize |
5-Nut | A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize |
6-Arm pin | A182-F6a A182-F316 A182-F304 customize |
7-Yoke | A351-CF8 A351-CF8M A216 WCB customize |
8-Bonnet nut | A194 8M A194-8 A194 2H customize |
9-Bonnet bolt | A193-B8 A193-B8M A193-B7 customize |
10-Bolt | A193-B7 A193-B8 A193-B8M customize |
11-Gasket | graphite+304 graphite+316 customize |
12-Bonnet | A216 WCB A351-CF8M A351-CF8 customize |
13-Eye bolt | A181 customize |
Design Standard | API 6D BS 1868 customize |
Connection Standard | API 605 ASME B 16.25-2007 ASME B 16.47A ASME B 16.47B ASME B 16.5 MSS SP-44 customize |
Test Standard | API 598 API 6D customize |
Face to Face | ASME B 16.10 customize |
Pressure-temperature ratings | ASME B 16.34-2004 customize |
Wall thickness dimension | API 600 BS 1868 |
FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:
Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?
The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.
Q2:Which certification do your products pass?
Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001、ISO 14001、API 6A、API 6D、TS CE、API607/6FA/BS6755.
- Q: Water has been seeping out of the sprinklers closest to the anti-siphon valve. Water seeps out of the sprinkler even when the anti-siphon valve is manually closed and not connected electronically. I opened up the anti-siphon valve to inspect the diaphragm, but there is no debris nor it was damaged. To be sure, I switched the diaphragm chamber of the two anti-siphon valves (a suspected leaky one and another good working one), but leak persists from the same sprinklers. I think the leak is from the (float?) rubber seal at the bottom of the stem closing the inlet valve. My anti-siphon is a Hardie (or Irritrol) model 311A series.1) Is my troubleshooting and logic correct? What other components could have contributed to the leak described? 2) At what scenario will water be flowing out of the anti-siphon cap?3) How can I determine if my anti-siphon valve has a vacuum breaker? What is a vacuum breaker good for?4)Which brand makes the most reliable anti-siphon valve?
- I work in a printing plant,and our city mandates anti-siphon valves on all our commercial equipment,so I have a little knowledge about these.We used to call these pesky creatures Vacumn Breakers,but now they are called anti-siphon valves,but what's in a name-they both are supposed to accomplish the same thing.Should your water pressure drop,due to a broken main or largefire,these devices are supposed to prevent contaminated water,like the contents of the Agfa Encomatic plate processor rinse tank,or your irrigation pipes,from being pulled back into your plumbing ,and then out your faucets when pressure is restored ,which could make everybody sicker than pooches. The way these work on industrial models is a little more complicated,but the principle is the same,for water to flow through the system,a certain pressure must be maintained.Our older models had a spring and diaphram arragement,the water pressure pushed the diaphram against a seal seat,with a spring behind it.As long as the pressure in the valve was greater than the spring,water would flow through the vave,but when the pressure ceased,the spring closed the diaphram,which in turn opened a vent that allowed the water to drain hence,vacumn breaker.These had to be at a point above the turn-offs,by the way,and when they malfunctioned,due to debris or rusted springs,they could either fail,and stay open,or fail,and water wouldcome gushing out the cap. The conditions you desribe sounds like a low pressure situation,where there is not enough pressure to flow through the anti-siphon.Is your supply line kinked or crushed?
- Q: Mostly suction apparatus with dual head motor, consist a non-return valve, what is its function to have it on the apparatus and not to have it?
- A non-return valve ensures when you stop the motor that what ever material you have sucked does not return back to it's original location. Take the example of a vacuum cleaner and a bowling ball... If you were to pick up the bowling ball with a vacuum cleaner and then turn the vacuum cleaner off, the ball would fall. However, if you had a non-return valve along the piping of your vacuum cleaner, when you turned the vacuum cleaner off the bowling ball (assuming there is a perfect seal between bowling ball and vacuum cleaner's attachment and the piping of the vacuum cleaner did not leak!) would stay attached to the vacuum cleaner and not fall! Non-return valves in the case of suction apparatus, usually act as a safety device to ensure if the power is lost to the motor, that any vacuum that has been produced is not lost.
- Q: Hi, I just got my 20 gallon freshwater aquarium yesterday and set it up today with the filter,water, pump,etc... I bought an AquaCulture 20-60 gallon double outlet air pump and didnt realize it had two valves. I only need to use one though ...what should I do??p.s. The bubbler thing that lets the bubbles out is a rectangle and its long but it isnt working in the middle of it...? would that be because of the double valve?p.p.s. the pump came with two check valves.Thanks, Sarah
- You only need to use the one valve, each valve will do 10-30 gallons so you'll be fine. As to the bubbler problem (sounds like a bubble brick to me, so that's what I'll call it), it's most likely uneven. If the brick isn't level it won't let out as much air in the right places. If leveling it doesn't work try adjust how much air goes into it, but the double valve won't be the problem for this. It came with two check valves for the two outlets, you only need to use one.
- Q: How do you repack an osy valve? Where do you get the packing from? Do you have to shut down the water to do it?
- For most valves, replacing the packing can be done without shutting down the water system. The first step is to back seat the valve. Back seating will occur when the valve is fully opened, and will temporarily seal the leak around the stem. You simply open the valve completely with about 50-100ft-lb of pressure. Once the leaking has stopped, you can remove the packing bolts and nuts on the packing gland. Slide the packing gland up the stem and you will have access to the packing. You may need a packing hook, which is a flexible corkscrew tool, to help remove the old packing. Once you have removed the old packing you will want to repack the valve with new packing by wrapping it around the stem and pushing it down into the valve body. After the new packing has been replaced, it may need to be compressed a little so that the packing gland can be reinstalled. This can be done using two pieces of all-thread rod. Cut both all-thread rods to 6 inches long, making sure to use the same diameter all-thread rod as your packing bolts. Place the all-thread rod through the packing gland and tighten the nuts onto the all-thread rod to compact the packing in the valve. Next, remove the all-thread rod and replace with the bolts. Turn the hand wheel, so the valve is about half way open. Finally, tighten the nuts evenly until all leakage around the stem stops. You may need to exercise the valve a few times to make sure there are no leaks around the stem. Be careful not to over tighten the gland because it can crack and there is no reason to compress the packing more than is needed to stop the leak.
- Q: I took my 2nd valve out to wash it (i couldn't find my oil, but it worked fine) and I've tried making the number face the mouthpiece, yet it still is messed up and won't let me play a lot of notes.
- see if there is a slight protrusion on the valve. probably on a piece of plastic near or above the spring of the valve? that should fit in a notch in the trumpet valve tube. Just insert your valve partly in until the protrusion is resting on a ledge-like part. Then turn your valve around the tube gently until you hear a click when the notch goes in. You are right, the number on the valve usually faces the side where the mouthpiece is. Make sure your other valves are also placed in there correctly. If all else fails, ask the person who's teaching or taught you to play trumpet. or go to a trumpet store. Enjoy practicing!
- Q: My 3rd valve keeps getting stuck when i play it, i have valve oil, but its just not working, help please
- There are several possibilities. You may have buildup on either the valve or the casing. Cleaning it thoroughly should normally remove it, but every once in a Blue Moon it pays to take it in and have it professionally cleaned. They can inspect it at the same time and tell you if you have a bend or a ding in the casing. Sometimes they are really hard to spot, especially if they are hidden in one of the crevices of the detail work. A really good repair person can stick a scope down there and tell you if you have some kind of blockage in just a few minutes. The only way to really clean inside the casing yourself is to get a good bottle brush that fits inside with just a little bit of resistance. You should really get someone to show you how to do it the first time because you don't want to go scraping up the insides. There is one other possibility that is kind of rare. Sometimes you get some gunk up under the valve button and it sticks when you push it down. You should normally be able to see this just by looking underneath however. Best of luck and I hope you find your sticking point and are able to set it free.
- Q: what is the difference between the pinch valve and gate valve / knife valve? If someone can help me explain / show me the complete structure of pinch valve and the way it operates, thats better
- a pinch valve has a membrane (or sleeve) inside the valve. When the valve handle is screwed down the membrane is pinch closed. This type of valve is good when the flow needs to be finely controlled. It is also good for slurry (abrasive) flows, as the membrane can be replaced when worn. Gate valves are less effective when the flow must be controlled. They are not used in slurry applications at all, as the gate will be quickly worn away. Knife gate valves can be used in slurry, but are generally totally open or totally closed. The valve must be installed the correct way around, as when closed the weight of the product against the knifegate helps seal the valve. If you have the wrong way around it will tend to leak.
- Q: im 28yrs old with two babies.in my heart two valves are very tight and leaking too,im going for a transplanting them in august.If there is anybody who got this problem solved please share.Thanks in advance.
- Usually with an artificial valve, you'll need to be on a blood thinner for the rest of your life. If they use a natural valve, you usually won't need the blood thinner - perhaps you will for a little while, but not permanently. You can request a natural valve, but the surgeon doesn't know what size/shape of valve you need until he actually opens you up and sees what he's working with. He has an idea, based on the x-rays and MRIs you've had done, but he won't know for sure until he actually see it. So the surgeons are going to request that the Organ Procurement Department to thaw out two or three valves, depending on what they see in the tests. You can't just keep thawing out valaves, testing them, and then refreezing them if they aren't what you are looking for, so if they turn out to not be a good fit, he's going to turn to an artificial valve. So you could request a natural valve, but because of the shape of the gap that he needs to fill, you may have to have an artificial valve. Blood thinners scare people, and your friends will tell you horror stories about how their uncle's cousin's Nephew cut his arm and bled to death because he was on a blood thinner! That could happen, but it is very rare. What does happen is that you will have to go to your doctor once a month and have a blood test, and if your blood is too thin, you need to ease off on the blood thinning medication. Or if it is too thick, you need to take more. If you're blood is too thin, you'll bruise more easily - which might be embarrassing if the bruise can be seen. Blood thinners aren't as dangerous as they make them out to be, but they can be inconvenient!
- Q: Hello, I have a 1990 BMW 525i.I would like to paint the valve cover where the BMW was written between a set of lines.I think I require a heat resitant paint for doing this.Can anyone advice the brand which will be best suited for this job.Is it advisable to chrome plate the valve cover.?with regards,natarajBahrain
- The BMW valve covers are made of aluminum. You can repaint these valve covers using hardware store spray paints without any problem from high temperatures. The valve cover should be removed and degreased with something like Gunk. The spray paints will not adhere to any parts with oil or grease contamination. The acorn retaining nuts should also be painted the same aluminum color. You should take the acorn nuts off their studs and insert them onto a piece of cardboard where you can overspray two or three coats of aluminum paint. Chromed acorn nuts do not look good with aluminum color valve covers. Do not attempt any underhood painting with spray paint unless everything within 4 feet is carefully masked off. Be very careful with spray painting things like thermostat housings, coolant hoses, and spark plug wires looms. You can buy 4 mm chrome plated flat washers from many hardware stores for about 5 cents apiece. I think you will need about 30 flat washers for the 2.5 litre engine. Good luck. You can try the engine paints if you like, but they are much more expensive and not any better looking. If you wanted to paint your exhaust manifold, I would suggest the high temperature paints designed for 1000 deg. C. temperatures. Some hot rodders use enamal coatings on the exhaust manifolds. BMW exhaust manifolds are very hard to see from under hood viewing as they should have asbestos heat shields to protect spark plugs, gaskets, and plug wires from excessive heat.
- Q: I was diagnosed with a VSD and a Biscuspid Aortic Valve and my doctor has started hinting towards sugery. I found out that the only reason i haven't had surgery yet is that it is stable enough to wait until technology improves so i am not left with a large scar. i was just wondering what this surgery would entail and if anyone has had it. I am 19 years old and kind of worried about it...
- VSD or ventricular septal defect is a congenital disease caused by failure of your ventricular septum to fuse with the bulbar ridges of your atrial septum during embryogenesis. Some VSD are fine since only a small amount of blood is shunted from LV to RV but a majority is still shunted straight to the aorta. An aortic valve stenosis which I think is what you are referring to is usually an adult disease associated with rheumatic fever, mechanical breakdown from hypertension, or death from an MI. Aortic valve stenosis is a bit more worrisome since this can lower the output of your heart by acting as an obstruction, which overtime can cause ventricular hypertrophy, a disease with whole set of other problems. New trends in VSD repair uses minimally-invasive surgery using a transcatheter that is inserted esophageally or through femoral artery; very small scars and short recovery time. Aortic valve repair may also be done this way in the future, but if your aortic valve is still patent, there is no need to replace it at this moment because it would require a donor and open heart surgery.
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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10 pc
- Supply Capability:
- 100 pc/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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