• API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class System 1
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class System 2
  • API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class System 3
API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class

API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 1500 Class

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10 pc
Supply Capability:
100 pc/month

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API Cast Steel Lift Check Valve 150 Class

The features of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve

Bolted Bonnet;Swing and lift disc;Metallic seating surfaces.

Body and Bonnet Connection of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

The body and bonnet of Class150~Class900 check valves are usually with studs and nuts.And the body and bonnet of Class1500~Class2500 check valves are usually of pressurized seal design.

Body-To-Bonnet Joint of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:                                                                                                         

Stainless steel + flesible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 150 and Class 300 check valve;Stainless steel + flexible graphite wounded gasket is used for Class 600 check valve,and joint gasket is also optional for Class 600 check valve;Ring joint gasket is used for Class900 check valve;Pressurized seal design is used for Class 1500~Class 2500 check valves.

Seat of Cast Steel Lift Check Valve:

For carbon steel check valve,the seat is usually forged steel.The sealing surface of the seat is spray welded with hard alloy specified by the customer.Renewable threaded seat is used for NPS<10 check="" valves="" and="" welded="" on="" seat="" can="" be="" also="" optional="" if="" being="" requested="" by="" the="" customer.welded="" is="" used="" for="" nps="">12 crbon steel gate valves .Forstainless steel check valve,integral seat is usually adopted ,or to weld hard alloy directly integrally.Threaded or welded on seat is also optional for stainless steel check valve if being requested by the customer.

Parameter of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Standard Criteria

 ASME/ANSI/API customize 

Pressure Rating

 150 Class  300   Class  600 Class  900 Class  1500   Class  2500 Class customize 

Valve Size

 50 mm  65   mm  80 mm  100 mm  125 mm  150   mm  200 mm  250 mm 300 mm  350   mm  400 mm  450 mm  500 mm  600   mm  650 mm  700 mm 750 mm

 2 inch  2.5   inch  3 inch  4 inch  5 inch  6   inch  8 inch  10 inch  12 inch 14   inch  16 inch  18 inch  20 inch  24   inch  26 inch  28 inch  30   inch customize 

Actuator

 Automatic customize 

Connection

 Butt Welding  Flange   RF  Flange RTJ customize 

1-Body Material

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8  A351-CF8M customize 

2-Seat ring

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A105+13Cr  Tool   Steel+A105 customize 

3-Disc

 Tool Steel+A216 WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8  A216   WCB+13Cr customize 

4-Arm

 A351-CF8  A216   WCB  A351-CF8M customize 

5-Nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

6-Arm pin

 A182-F6a  A182-F316  A182-F304 customize   

7-Yoke

 A351-CF8  A351-CF8M  A216   WCB customize 

8-Bonnet nut

 A194   8M  A194-8  A194 2H customize 

9-Bonnet bolt

 A193-B8  A193-B8M  A193-B7 customize   

10-Bolt

 A193-B7  A193-B8  A193-B8M customize   

11-Gasket

 graphite+304  graphite+316 customize   

12-Bonnet

 A216   WCB  A351-CF8M  A351-CF8 customize 

13-Eye bolt

 A181 customize 

Design Standard

 API 6D  BS   1868 customize 

Connection Standard

 API 605  ASME B   16.25-2007  ASME B 16.47A  ASME B 16.47B  ASME   B 16.5  MSS SP-44 customize 

Test Standard

 API 598  API   6D customize 

Face to Face

 ASME B 16.10 customize   

Pressure-temperature ratings

 ASME B   16.34-2004 customize 

Wall thickness dimension

 API 600  BS 1868

 

FAQ of Cast Steel Check Valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.


Q: I am replacing my vanity sink with a Pedestal sink. I turned the shut off vales to the off position tight.I disconnected the cold water and drained the remaining water and everything was fine. I disconnected the hot and drained the water from the connecting tube but water still came out of the shut off valve at a decent pace.I placed my finger over the valve and i felt pressure build up...like when you stick your finger over a bottle of soda.I tightened the bolt on the valve and even the screw to the handle to no resolve.any ideas on how to make it stop while i connect the Pedestal sink?also, i am as novice as it gets.thanks in advance
You can turn the water off outside where it comes into the house. There should be a shut-off valve there. That will stop your valve from leaking until you get everything hooked back up. You can also turn it off at the meter if you want. There's a shut-off inside there too.
Q: Looking at a few marshall amps and i came across this whole valve amp thing. I've heard about it before, but never really understood it. What types of valves are there?! (i think i've heard of power amp valve) and what type of marshall amps have valves?! Can some of them be part valve and then have that valvestate thing?! :s all pretty damn confussing Cheers
Marshall were big name in Amps when pretty well everything electronic used valves. Some valves were quite small, some larger, and some are still used today in powerful transmitters. There are those who swear that the sound produced by a valve amplifier is far better than a solid state one. Valve technology takes up much more space than solid state, so miniaturisation is a problem, and also uses much more power and produces a lot of heat. Now solid state is capable of producing high power audio amplifiers which use less power and take up less space, so have become the preferred method. Nevertheless, there is a strong following even today for a good high powered valve amplifier. And yes, it is quite possible to have a valve and solid state mix. The solid state works at the input stage, and the valves take over at high power output levels, but I am not sure what the purists would think about this hybrid usage .
Q: Serious answers only please. I have a 1995 Ford F-250 XL 5.8L 351 c.i. engine. My check engine light comes on periodically when I drive. When I bought the truck a year ago the gas mileage wasn't too bad, about 9-10 mpg. I've only put about 3,000 miles on it this past year, and now the needle drops just driving it across town. I work at a Chevy dealership, and I've worked at another Chevy dealer as well as a Ford. I've always done my own work on my cars and am currently restoring a 1967 Mustang, so I have decent knowledge under the hood. I scanned the truck and it has a stored code for EGR valve voltage too high (stuck open). How bad could this be hurting my gas mileage? It's $160 for the valve and sensor even after my discount, and being a college student that's a lotta $ to pay. I'm selling the truck and need it running perfect when I do. Please, serious answers only, and help is greatly appreciated!
Open the hood, find the valve and check its operation. With the engine running, watch the diaphragm and then operate the throttle. When you gun the engine, you should see the diaphragm move. If it doesn't, there may be a dried-out and damaged rubber vacuum hose (quite likely) or else the valve is clogged up with carbon. Pull the valve out and shoot it full of carburetor cleaner to dissolve out the carbon. You should be able to move the operating diaphragm by sucking on the vacuum tube. While you're in there, start the engine without the EGR valve in place and shoot carburetor cleaner into the holes that lead into the intake manifold: one should have vacuum, and the other should have exhaust pressure.
Q: After shutting off the hot and cold water lines to my washer to remove the unit from my laundry room i noticed a small leak coming from the hot water valve as if the valve is not completely closing. The valves themselves should be roughly 10 years old and were extremely tight when attempting to close them, my question is how big of a job is this to replace the water valve? Is it as simple as turning off the main water to the house and replacing the valve or are these typically soldered on? Currently i just ran the hose for the hot water to the drain line to prevent water from leaking onto the floor so is this something that is a fairly non issue once i hook the lines back up to the washer and turn them back on? Or is this something i should get addressed asap?
Of course, the best solution is to replace the valve. Valves are either soldered on or attached to the pipe with compression fittings. If the pipe is copper and you see a silver band of metal between the pipe and the valve, that's probably solder. In this case, it would be best to let a plumber replace the valve. Otherwise, if your valve is attached with a compression fitting, you can get a new valve at your local home improvement store in the plumbing section. I recommend getting a 1/4 turn, steel ball valve. These are very simple and reliable valves. When you remove the old valve, be sure to also remove the compression washer and shoulder nut as well. You'll want to use the new ones that come with your valve. I also recommend using Teflon tape to wrap the threads of your new valve, at least two times in the direction of nut tightening. This will reduce the chance of leakage through the threads. Tighten the compression washer between the valve and the shoulder nut snugly. Make sure the valve is off. Turn the water on and check for leaks. If you see periodic drips, tighten the shoulder nut until the dripping stops. The other cheap and dirty alternative is to get a cap for your existing valve. These are also available in the plumbing section of your home improvement store. They run about $2-3, I believe, and are threaded onto the faucet where your hose attaches. That will keep your leaking valve from dripping all over the place.
Q: We have a 2005 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton truck that has a check engine light on. The dealer checked the code and he told us we need a new Evap Vent Valve and clamp. The cost is over 500.00 with labor being most of the cost. Is this diffcult to change out? Im a very mechanical person. Also he said it would be ok to drive for now but could cause problems down the road. ????like what?My wife is getting ready to take a trip in it, should it be ok for awhile? Dont have 500+ to spend on it now.
How Does Evap System Work
Q: The pump is working fine on the presta valve on my back tire, but it is not working on the other presta valve. It seems like the the presta valve isn't sticking out far enough out of the tube for the pump to be able to lock in on it. What could be causing this?
The valve stem is too short. Tubes that have presta valve stems also come in different valve lengths. You need a 40 or 60 mm valve stem or a valve stem extender.
Q: 1999 Mercury Cougar in awesome shape no engine problems, and has just under 86000 miles. I bought it recently and the check engine light came on out of nowhere and I realized It was an EGR issue the code was p0401 insufficient flow. I had a mechanic replace the solenoid valve as well as clean all of the carbon gunk off the valve and the light was off, then suddenly POPPED back on, making me really nervous and kind of upset. So today I had a few errands to run and I said I wasn't going to go get it read again until tomorrow, and it just Went off. So Is the car just very sensitive to things and is that why it goes on and off? Or is something wrong? I'm a student who really wants to keep this car nice like I bought it.
The EGR= exhaust gas recirculation valve is a controlling device to allow inert gas into the engine at cruise. The tube below it supplies the gases and the valve directs it into the engine. Any where within this assembly carbon can build up and get lodged in the pintle of the EGR valve. Some times it is the valve and a vacuum test of the diaphragm will detect failure. Keep in mind that there are two versions of the EGR valve Positive and negative pack pressure and the test is different for a positive back pressure style valve. A flexible spring rod with a scraping device at the end wil really help in the cleaning of the tube and passages. Don't give up , your on the right road.
Q: My brother bought a trumpet last month, and I've been trying it out but the first and second valves keep sticking. We've tried valve oil, but it isn't working. Any tips?
My trumpet does that a lot, so i rub it w/ a paper towel, loll blue juice valve oil is the best.
Q: I keep the tire pressure in my tires at approx 40 lbs per tire. I have an inexpensive tire gauge that I use to measure the pressure. Recently, one tire seemed low, so I measured the pressure and the batteries were dead in the tire gauge. I replaced them and measured again.It said 20.5! I thought I was going crazy, but then measured all the other tires and they were around 35 to 40. I filled up all the tires to about 40, but when I measured the weird one again, it said only 30!The question is, could there be a problem with the tire valve that is preventing me from getting a good measure of the pressure? I filled up the tire to where it looks really filled up, and I'm afraid to overfill it. I'd like to get it to 40 lbs but I don't know if it's already gt; 40 lbs with a tire valve problem. Or if a tire that's at 20 pounds can look so filled up that you couldn't tell it from a tire that's at 40 pounds?Any info would be appreciated.
The tire valve won't cause a poor reading. If there is air leaking when you test the air pressure, you can get a low reading. Hold the guage square on the valve and if you get a reading and don't hear air hissing while you are getting the reading, the guage will be right. Trust it and fill up your tire.
Q: so i'm replacing a one hole faucet, and i'm stuck at the very first step. the cold water valve turned off with no problems. i tried to turn on the cold water and none came out. unfortunately, the hot water valve just squeaks and goes around and around, never cutting off the water. when i turn it, it also leaks a minute amount of water, though regardless of which way i twist, it stops as soon as i do. i can't just unplug the hot water valve with it still running water, so does anyone have any ideas? how does one replace a valve like this to begin with? is it possible that there is a shut off valve for the house that i myself can access (without having to call someone to shut off my water)? in case you haven't noticed, i am a bit plumbing deficient, so if you could explain it without too much jargon, it would be much appreciated.
There has to be a main shutoff in the house, whether you are hooked up to city water or have a pump. And no, when you shut off the main valve and the pressure drops very little more water will escape the water heater. If the water heater has a shut off valve on the hot water line coming out of it, even better. Shut one or the other/or both off and drain the pressure via the sink faucet. The only water you will get when you take the problem valve off will simply what is in the lines. You can then change the valve and faucet. It's always prudent to shut off the power, or flame if the the water heater is gas, in case there is a bit of syphoning.

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