Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 17
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
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Bubble Insulation Benefits:
Reflects 96% of radiant heat
Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic
Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install
Durable and lightweight
Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate
Vapor and radon retarder
Easy to cut and install
Permanent and maintenance-free
Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents
Does not support the growth of mold or mildew
Not affected by moisture or humidity
Lowers heating and cooling costs year round
Bubble Foil Application:
Metal & Steel Buildings
Homes
Roof Underlayments
Cathedral Ceilings
Crawl Spaces
Hot Water Heaters
Basement Walls
Floors
Garage Doors
Concrete slabs
Driveway snow melts
Pole barns
Post frame buildings
Poultry barns
Animal kennels
Temperature sensitive storage areas
Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:
Material Structure: AL/Bubble/AL | ||
Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size | ||
Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized ) | ||
Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized) | ||
PROPERTIES | TEST DATA | UNIT |
Thickness | 3.5-4 | mm |
Weight | 250 | g/m2 |
Emissivity | 0.03-0.04 | COEF |
Thermal conductivity | 0.034 | w/m0 |
Apparent Density | 85 | kg/m3 |
Reflectivity | 95-96 | % |
Water Vapour Transmission | 0.013 | g/m2kpa |
Corrosion | doesn't generate | |
Tensile Strength(MD) | 16.98 | Mpa |
Tensile Strength(TD) | 16.5 | Mpa |
- Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- Yes, you can ask, but don't expect him to seriously entertain the idea of actually doing it. You rented the house at it was. The landlord has no obligation to spend money on improving it so you can save money. That amount of heat loss in that time is insignificant. If I turned my heat off for four hours in the just-around-freezing weather we are having right now, I would expect my house to cool off a lot more than 4 degrees. My furnace is coming on for a few minutes at least every 15 minutes to keep the place at just over 60F. I have the lowest heating bill of anyone I know.
- Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
- Q:I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.
- Most attics are vented, so I'm not sure how effective that would be.
- Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
- it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
- Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?
- The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.
- Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
- I'm not sure if your questioning what to do before or after. A lot of experience contractors that work with insulation use generous amounts of baby powder on their skin before covering up prior to work. The baby powder fills up the pores keeping the insulation out. Insulation can travel through cotton clothing, but it is better than nothing. After the work is done wash off with cold water. The cold water closes the pores in your skin, while rinsing off the bulk of the insulation on your skin. Then use any temperature you like to complete the process.
- Q:So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Is the attic floor completely uninsulated now? You need a single layer of vapor barrier between the living space and the attic space. This is often done with faced insulation rolls. A vapor barrier between the living space ceiling and your new insulation may be enough all by itself to prevent the condensation from forming. If there's existing insulation, you'll have to pull some up to check for a vapor barrier. If there's already a vapor barrier, you can add unfaced insulation. Never put in two vapor barriers with insulation between them.
- Q:we want to put a model railway up in the loft,and i like the idea of having white plastic cladding throughout up there,my hubby is insulating the roof tomorrow,but he prefers plasterboard,at least the cladding will be maintenance free,
- i think it might be able to pass code if you ever sell the house.i myself would use sheets of white wainscoting.also make sure the insulation if it has a paper backing ,paper faces the room.
- Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
- I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
- Q:we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
- There are a couple of types of torchdown, refer to the manufacturers instructions for the product being used. Most rubber or vinyl (pvc) do not fuse to the roof surface and depend on soft non-abrasive surface for maximum life.
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Metal Roofing Insulation Underlayment - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 17
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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