• Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 1
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 2
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 3
Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material

Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/green  XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000

aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material  :

  • Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration

  • Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)

  • Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat

  • Excellent fire properties

  • Excellent acoustic properties

  • Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free

  • Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers

  • Compliance with the latest insulation standards

30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)




Q: I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.
No blowing in some insulation will help but putting insulation against the roof wont help. the attic area is supposed to breath to avoid condensation and overheating. The only thing you would put on the roof side would be to help cooling in summer since the shingles heat up the wood underneath and heats the attic, which then works down through the ceiling.
Q: hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :)
Sorry Insulating alone is not going to work.You;re going to need some kind of heater.
Q: Like how does it get put in your roof?I am doing this energy efficient house.Other Questions:What is an Eave?Whats the roof on top of a patio called?What does orientation mean?What are the good things about French doors?
go into your attic and pull the insulation out from around the vents that you have the problem with. Then take some standard insulation and fill in around the vents.
Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
take a cold shower as soon as you get home.
Q: I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3" and 4" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q: im thinking of putting rolled felt paper under my metal roofing would that work instead of the reflective insulation instead?
I installed a metal roof 5 years ago. I stripped the roof down to the plywood and put down 30# felt. This was what the manufacturer recommended. The felt is not for insulation though. The company was Metal Sales out of PA. They are glad to give advise.
Q: This is blocking airflow and I'm having it removed after I bought the house. There is already insulation on the attic 'floor'. This is double insulated and is not correct. Why would anyone do this?
No building codes back then, and maybe he was thinking about putting an extra room up there then you would have to insulate the rafters also
Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
Blown in will be the easiest to install, and it also has the advantage of being seamless. It is possible to rent a blower and do the installation yourself, but many inexperienced people who try that end up with a poor job in the end. Call an insulation contractor or two for a free estimate. After the job is done, insist that the installer provide you with an empty bag of the product used, and also ask how many bags were installed. The bag has a chart that will tell you how many bags are required per square foot, so you can have some assurance that the job was done correctly.
Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
If you have clear access to your rafters, the best insulation possible (after installing your vent baffles) is sprayed on foam. I didn't say polyurethane foam on purpose, as there is now a soy based foam available with exactly the same working and thermal characteristics as the petro-poly goop, with none of crude oil. But i digress. Sprayed on foam has the advantage of not only thermal insulation but it also seals everything that it comes in contact with, thus stopping any air movement, something that no fiberglass or extruded polyurethane could ever do. Industry experts are still debating this but, it looks like 1 inch of sprayed on foam (with it sealing qualities) does as much, if not more, than 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass and, foam will never sag or absorb moisture like glass does. Fill your rafter spaces and gloat to the neighbors when your bills come in. :)

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