• Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 1
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 2
  • Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material System 3
Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material

Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/green  XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000

aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material  :

  • Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration

  • Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)

  • Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat

  • Excellent fire properties

  • Excellent acoustic properties

  • Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free

  • Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers

  • Compliance with the latest insulation standards

30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)




Q:Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
The sip panels are vented depending on what thickness over all that you want. The last ones I used had 4 inches of rigid foam board then on top of that had 3" strips every 16" an inch thick which created an airspace. On top was 5/8 Osb. To create an affective air flow the fascia cannot plane through with the plywood at the bottom but fall just short of the 1" space. To cap it a oversized vented drip edge is used. You must also have a ridge vent for proper flow. These panels can near 100$. You can do it your own way like I do when building log cabins by laying 2" foam down first then lay 2x4 16 on center on top then finally your plywood. If you use CDX instead of Osb it will outlast it by 100%. Rigid foam insulation is not like batt-faced. Rfboard ins. Is used in boat hulls and even after being submerged for long periods of time will return to its original density and r-value. For obvious reasons batt ins. Will not. You won't have a moisture problem as long as you don't have a venting problem. If you are using high hat lighting don't let the cans touch your rigid ins. Tuck batt in softly around them TAKE THE PAPER OFF! By code if you have an interior wall 10or more ft. It must have a fireblock, simply a 2x4 turned flat between the studs. On your roof the ceiling you see inside, (most likely 7/8 tongue and groove boards) passes as the same. Good luck!
Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
Q:We have plenty down at the center, so many, you can carpet a garden. So, since I'll have to tear down the roof and improve the insulation in a few months, I was thinking of adding one extra layer... of emergency blankets. Since they can reflect the sun's heat up, and the heat under it down, will they do that for a whole house? Will the plastic film cause water condensation? If you wouldn't recommend it, then what would you recommend?
They may help, but as thin as they are, installing them would be about as easy as putting socks on a rooster!
Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
No. The shingles are applied directly to the decking (over felt paper). Nailing through rigid insulation will either cause dips from driving the occaisional nail too far, or the shingles won't be nailed down tight and will blow off in the wind. Insulate under the decking.
Q:i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!
Use HDPE foam (high density polyethylene) - possibly with a layer of aluminum foil sandwiched in between. It's also waterproof (polystyrene isn't).
Q:What is the difference between roof and loft insulations?
Potentially that the roof itself is insulated on the underside. A loft insulation could be that the base or floor of the loft/ attic is insulated. Otherwise, I'm not sure.
Q:hot because of all the added insulation. Is that what the insulation will do? Someone told me that it will save us on our cooling/heating bills, and that it will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer now. Is this true?
Very humorous!!! you be attentive to final evening I had a dream that i became eating a significant marshmallow, as quickly as I awakened this morning my pillow became long previous! Ha Ha Ha the previous ones are the ultimate....
Q:Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
it is one of the strongest roof sealers and the best insulator available
Q:Like how does it get put in your roof?I am doing this energy efficient house.Other Questions:What is an Eave?Whats the roof on top of a patio called?What does orientation mean?What are the good things about French doors?
It can be blown in or more often it comes in large bagged bales and you cut and dump in the attic. The eaves are the portion of the roof that overhangs/extends past the wall. It's usually called a patio cover Orientation is how the home (or other structure) is positioned on the lot. They let in lots of light and are very attractive.

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