• Metal Roofing Insulation Materials:Aluminum Foil Bubble and Foam Insulation System 1
Metal Roofing Insulation Materials:Aluminum Foil Bubble and Foam Insulation

Metal Roofing Insulation Materials:Aluminum Foil Bubble and Foam Insulation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
12 m²/month

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aluminum foil bubble and foam insulation
1.Structure:AL/bubble+EPE+bubble /AL
2,Normal roll size:1.35*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000

aluminum foil foam heat insulation material  :

  • Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration

  • Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)

  • Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat

  • Excellent fire properties

  • Excellent acoustic properties

  • Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free

  • Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers

  • Compliance with the latest insulation standards

30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)




Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q: does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
I partially disagree with the previous answers. Ventilation does help tremendously BUT in the winter a high R value keeps the heat from going through the ceiling through the attic to the roof heating up any snow on the roof which causes ice & ice dams to form, which in turn will shorten the life span of your roof.
Q: I already have fiberglass in the attic, but would like to add more.
Your best angle is to go with blow in fiberglass. ownes corning and Johns mansville both make good blow in fiberglass. Menards and Home depot in our area will lend you a blow in machine for free but make sure you have 2 people to run it and that you have a TIGHT sealed face mask for the guy in the attic along with safety goggles. No way around it either that guy in the attic is gonna get itchy, so expect that now. I put blow in cellulose over my attic fiberglass bats to bring it up to R-50 but i regret it now. I should have stuck with fiberglass. I did some research after the fact and there is some flammability issues with the cellulose i used and on top of that it is seriously dusty so i cant store anything in the attic space anymore. Cellulose was cheaper and the "green" choice but if i could reverse time I would have gone fiberglass blow in.
Q: House is a bi-level. Recently added storm windows to deck off dining room. Having a new rubber roof installed would like to know if we can insulate ceiling to make the room warmer. What product do you suggest we use. we are getting conflicting answers, some say you can insulate others say the ceiling needs to breath having a rubber roof install. Please advise.
Yes, you can. There is a little plastic piece that you will want to tack to the underside of the roof though before you install your insulation. It is a plastic air vent that keeps about an inch or so of space between the roof and the insulation so that air can move through. You need to do that so the roof can breathe as they say. If you don't allow it to breathe, the difference in temperature from outside to inside will cause the roof to sweat and will make your roof go bad a lot quicker.
Q: Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks
Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.
Q: The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?
There are closed-cell expanding foam insulation materials that can be installed through rather small holes in the ceiling. The advantage of this material is that it also serves as a vapor-barrier - a critical function in your case. Not cheap, but very effective. Make sure you install roof vents to prevent excessive heat from developing above the insulation - but with foam, this requirement is far less onerous than with blown in or batt insulation.
Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.
Q: I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?
Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.
Q: What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
Blown in. It's better and also cheaper to have the insulation blown in. It's better because the insulation will go around wires, ductwork, and pipes much easier. It can get into nooks and crannys easier. It's much quicker also.

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