• Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 1
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 2
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 3
Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21

Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q: Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
Oh yeah. You need insulation. Think of it this way. If you turned a stove top burner on medium-low and placed one of those roof tiles on it, it would be too hot to pick up. If you put down a small piece of insulation first, you'd be able to pick up the tile with no problem.
Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
You can remove it, but why not replace it with rolled insulation? I'm sure you're local State Board of Health would disaprove of not having your tenant's homes properly insulated. You could get into a lot of legal trouble if you do not keep you apartment building properly maintained.
Q: or in queensland
Depends on whether you are employed or working contract. Currently it could be 18-25 per hr for employee or upto 40 per hr for contract depending on allowances and if you are providing your own vehicle or company vehicle. Then are you doing bats or anticon, it is usually charged on a sqm rate. Call some roofing companies or insulation companies and ask them what their rates are.
Q: I live in the top most floor of a flat. Is it worth to insulate the roof (from inside) with styrofoam(thermocole) to reduce the airconditioning load. Is it really economical with respect to cost of insulation and savings gained? Any experiences?
You want to insulate at the ceiling joist level, not at the roof-rafter level and provide ventilation for the remaining cavity. You also want to make sure you have the correct vapor barrier. But you do not want to insulate directly below and contacting the roof deck. One of the difficulties with rigid insulation is making it fit correctly and without gaps. So be careful of that. You may have to supplement the rigid sheets with foam spray at the gaps, around wires and pipes and so forth.
Q: Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
First, "green" building is not technically defined as far as the construction industry is concerned. i.e. anyone can call their products "green" until the parameters are set up to strickly define what is "green" and what is not. To date, it's been more of a marketing strategy than anything. (Unless this has changed in recent months) I'm glad to hear New Orleans is taking the right path in rebuilding the place! Hope to get back down there soon.
Q: A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US)
If your insulation gets wet while the roof was removed, you will most likely have mold/mildew problems after the roof is replaced. While the roof is off, it's an excellent idea to inspect the insulation are replace as necessary. If your roofer isn't going to protect your insulation while it is exposed, find another roofer.
Q: How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.
Q: I have a split house with an attic where I have insulation on attic floor, but the house seems to be cold still, Can I add insulation to the roof of the attic? If so, any options? Thank you.
Most attics are vented, so I'm not sure how effective that would be.
Q: What's better- to lay out roof insulation in an old house or to get it blown in?
Blown in. It's better and also cheaper to have the insulation blown in. It's better because the insulation will go around wires, ductwork, and pipes much easier. It can get into nooks and crannys easier. It's much quicker also.

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