• Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 1
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 2
  • Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21 System 3
Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21

Polystyrene Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Type 21

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

Q:Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
The roof (assume pitched) doesn't need insulating it's above the attic above the ceilings of all the rooms that need 12 inch of mineral wool insulation to stop heat loss (you may have less thickness not all insulation is to the correct standards) Also if as I suspect the walls of your home are timber with shiplap (and not solid brick / cavity walls) they also require insulation top up. From a google search there is state wide Government grants for insulating homes, could be available in your state? using blown insulation to walls/ceilings. If you decide to install it yourself the payback is excellent -in 12 months depending on fuel cost and what existing insulation (from your description minimal) The landlord could be entitled to increase your lease costs if he takes the work on as he has greatly improved the thermal insulation which will reduce your heating costs and make his property more valuable to lease.
Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
Q:Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
Q:I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?
Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.
Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.
Q:How do I find roofers who are specialised in protection against invaders from outer space. I called 10 and they said they would call me back, but no one did so far. It must be really complicated.
Don't fall for this SCAM! Everyone knows that lining your roof with aluminum foil acts as an antenna. Making it easier for those little gray bastards to track your every move. And most roofers are in cahoots with those outer space nar-do-wells This myth/propaganda was originally disseminated by the Inter-Galatic Agency for Human Anal Probing (AgHAP). I first became aware of this little plot after dealing with roofers for many years as a GC. After only a brief conversation with anyone on a roofing crew and you can only assume there are from another plant.
Q:Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6" to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?
your plan is good ...
Q:we replacing our torched down rubber roof and my contractor said we need to install a 1 inch rigid insulation..is the insulation needed?
on the outside, under the rubber? That's crazy. Don't go for it.
Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
The okorder , and see if I could find out anything there, if not I'd see my doctor. Insulation can get into your lungs and nasal passages and do a great deal of damage. That's why you should always wear a mask when woking with it. I would'nt worry too much about the sawdust.

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