Temple Brand Roofing Insulation Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q: I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.
- Best way and easy cheap way is just roll out unpapered fiberglass over top of joist at right angles to existing insulation
- Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
- The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
- Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?
- You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.
- Q: weather stripping/ foam strip?
- Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.
- Q: Are black concrete roof tiles for my house uncomfortably hot even with roof under sheeting and insulation?
- I wouldn't get bogged down by it. It depends on you're area and what you want to use the loft for. But the insulation will keep it ok inside. Just add some air bricks to encourage ventilation. This will keep you're heating bills down, and unless you're going to be living in the loft I really wouldn't worry. There are a lot of variables to consider. Just stick you're logical head on and you'll find your own answer. Just consider what the Canadians say; "Insulate tight and Ventilate right".
- Q: I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
- it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
- Q: The attic was converted into two rooms and I want to add insulation but the space between the ceiling of the rooms and the roof is about 5 inches? How should I do this?
- u can buy blow in insulation. I think Home Depot even lets you rent the blower machine free if you buy a certain amount of bags of the insulation.
- Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
- The best insulation that you will find is R15 fiberglass that is installed inside the attic between the roofing rafters. It's twice as thick as R12 which goes behind wall paneling. If you're talking about roofing shingles, they don't really act as insulation but architect shingles last the longest.
- Q: If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
- Insulating the ceiling and then the roof would be a huge waste of money. You only insulate on the cold side of a heated area. Why would you put insulation on the roof when you have insulation in the ceiling and there is no heat source in between the two?. Put R40 insulation in your ceiling, roof vents in your roof, and you will be fine. You can add more insulation if you want, but it gets to the point where you are not really doing much any more.
- Q: Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6" to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?
- your plan is good ...
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Temple Brand Roofing Insulation Flexible Ducts Aluminum Foil
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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