Rockwool Slab Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation - Good Price for Thermal Insulation
- Ref Price:
-
$5.00 - 10.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m²/month
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Rockwool Slab Good Price For Thermal Insulation
1.Structure of Rockwool Slab Good Price For Thermal Insulation：
Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.
The Manufacturing Process
Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes
2.Main Features of Rockwool Slab Good Price For Thermal Insulation：
● FEATURES
Thermal Insulation
Fire Safety
Acoustic Control
No Corrosion
Environmental friendly
Moisture Resistance
Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction
Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.
Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.
Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The
Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800℃.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675℃.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.
3. Rockwool Slab Good Price For Thermal Insulation Images
4. Rockwool Slab Good Price For Thermal Insulation Specification
ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD
Standard Size
Product Blanket Board
Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200
Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200
Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100
Remark:
Other sizes are available upon request.
Facing materials can be applied upon request.
Standard Size
Product Blanket Board
Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200
Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200
Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100
Remark:
Other sizes are available upon request.
Facing materials can be applied upon request.
Rock wool PIPE
Standard Size
DIA Thickness (mm)
inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150
1/2’’ 22 ● ● ●
3/4’’ 27 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1’’ 34 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1-1/4’’ 43 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1-1/2’’ 48 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
2’’ 60 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
2-1/2’’ 76 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
3’’ 89 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
3-1/2’’ 108 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
4’’ 114 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
5’’ 140 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
6’’ 169 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
8’’ 219 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
10’’ 273 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
12’’ 325 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
14’’ 356 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
15’’ 381 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
16’’ 406 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
18’’ 456 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
19’’ 483 ● ● ● ● ● ●
20’’ 508 ● ● ● ● ● ●
22’’ 558 ● ● ● ● ●
24’’ 610 ● ● ● ● ●
5.FAQ
We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：
① What’s the mainly material for rock wool？
Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,
②What’s the mainly type for rock wool？
rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.
③How you control the quality?
During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.
- Q: As opposed to other roof structures, such as Mansard or Hipped roofs. If so, is it because there is a lesser distance between the internal heat source and the roof?
- No, it really does not matter what type of roof as long as the insulation is well done. But of course in a flat roof it is easier to reach all the points with ease whereas in sloping roof some areas may be inaccessible. But, with blow-in insulation that is not a big problem.
- Q: I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
- You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
- Q: this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
- spray foam
- Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
- We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
- Q: is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
- If you have vented soffits, you have to stay away from the corners where the outside wall meets the roof. It is best to install insulation baffles to the roof sheathing to keep the fiberglass from stopping the natural ventilation through the soffit vents into the attic. They can be purchased at home improvement store.
- Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
- The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)
- Q: Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
- The best insulation that you will find is R15 fiberglass that is installed inside the attic between the roofing rafters. It's twice as thick as R12 which goes behind wall paneling. If you're talking about roofing shingles, they don't really act as insulation but architect shingles last the longest.
- Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
- You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.
- Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?
- I’m guessing you are asking about the attic. Spray cellulose insulation is the way to go. Very green with 80% or more of the product made from recycled paper. Wet or dry depending on the need, with some system allowing for a DIY application.
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Rockwool Slab Polycarbonate Roofing Insulation - Good Price for Thermal Insulation
- Ref Price:
-
$5.00 - 10.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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