• Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC System 1
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC System 2
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC System 3
  • Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC System 4
Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC

Fanfold Roofing Insulation Woven Film MPC

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
10000M2 m²
Supply Capability:
20000M2 Per Day m²/month

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1. Specification of Woven Film

Aluminum foil: Metallizedpolyester: 12u / Polyethylene / Polyethylene Woven Fabric/Aluminum foil: 7u

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

PROPERTIES

UNIT

VALUE

TEST METHOD

Basic weight

gsm

140

ASTM D646

Tensile strength: M. D.

                X. D.

N/25mm

450

450

ASTM C1136

Burst strength

N

150

ASTM D774

Reflectivity of foil surface

%

95

----------

Temp. Resistance

-29°C

+66°C

No change

 keep soft

ASTM C1263

Water vapor permeance

ng/N.s

1.6

ASTM E-96

Water Soak Test

24hrs

No delamination

----------

Width: 1.2m, 1.25m, 1.3m

Length: 60m, 100m, 120m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1)

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

Remarks:

(1).The data above are typical results and subject to change without notice.

(2).Tolerance: Weight and Thickness: ±10%; Width: ±3mm; Length: Cut Roll & Log Roll ±0.3m, Jumbo Roll ±0.5%.

(3).The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

(4).It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

(5).The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

 

2. Application of Woven Film

Foil facing is mainly used for duct wrap in HVAC sustem and other fields, such as vapor barrier etc., and suitable for off-line lamination of glass wool or rock wool. By special processing, the facing will have excellent flame retardant property.

 

3. Packaging & Delivery of Woven Film

Depends on the clients' requirements and the production conditions.

 strech film packaging

 pallet packaging

Q: do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
I don't think you can blow insulation in that area. It is to small of an area to get insulation into.
Q: I'm thinking of converting my brick walled corrugated iron shed into a changing room for winter hot tub use. I was advised by a friend that the first thing i should do is insulate the roof using glass fibre insulation (the yellow fluffy stuff in the loft) and a simple Plywood ceiling but im not sure how i would stick it to the existing roof (dimensions 170cm x 147cm). So..... how should i insulate the roof of my future changing room????
If the roof has joists, which I imagine it would, you would put the bats of insulation into those spaces... these can then be stapled into place or if that isn't possible, you can run a wire between the joists to hold the bats in place. If using faced insulation be sure to put the paper side towards the warm area (inside) to prevent condensation.
Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
Spray in foam could be an option.. you would need to talk to someone who knows more than I do.. but Ive seen great results
Q: ... building code max. (R-50)???
you need ventilation. the insulation is to keep heat i the living area of your home, your attic should be as cold as outside. make sure you have good soffit vents(intake) and good ridge or roof vents(exhaust). if you already have proper ventilation holes then make sure nothing is blocking them. many times folks push the insulation too far to the ends, blocking the soffit vents. you're loosing heat from your home into the attic which melts the roof snow and the outside temp then quickly turns this into ice. proper insulation as well as ventilation work hand in hand to combat this.
Q: Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.
Q: Foam and the new building technolodgy's are coming to New Orleans. The rebuilding is causing New Orleans to be the "Greenest City in America". Energy Efficiency and the proper buiilding techniques tak hold.
it is one of the strongest roof sealers and the best insulator available
Q: The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.
Q: I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
James M has a good answer- Your problems (as mine) are found in the attic - or below the roof surface. If the roof is warmed from within the house, the snow will melt daily and re-freeze at night. Your task is to keep the roof COLD by insulating the eaves from warm air. Also the attic space. The attic air should rise to a vent in gables or along the roof ridge... then exit. The interior temperature should be chilly at all times with snow on the roof- 40degF or below. In my case (maybe yours?), the warmth comes from the Top of the exterior walls - the top plate is very near the roof- and heat from the living space travels upward inside the wall to this support... a LINE of snow melt is visible where the wall meets the roof. I need to reinsulate the entire exterior to get control of roof snow melt... or visit the roof with a snow rake after heavy snow.
Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
I never turn my heat or ac off when I leave the apartment. I'd say you can ask all you want but the landlord won't be listening to you. And I don't think 4 degree drop is a lot. And it does depend on what the weather outside is. If I had 68 degrees indoors I'd always have a cold. What is your monthly bill and which part of the country are you in? My bill is around $42 a month. I have insulated draperies, I use only one 40 watt bulb at my place. When it gets cold in here my 40 watt bulb will heat my place.
We are a well-known enterprise specializing in the production and sales of high-grade meltalized film, foil film, foil foam and other composite product. Since the establishment of our company, we have been devoted to setting up a good reputation in the world.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Hangzhou, China
Year Established 2006
Annual Output Value Above US$ 18 Million
Main Markets 10.00% Mid East
15.00% Northern Europe
10.00% North America
22.00% Eastern Asia
7.00% Africa
7.00% Eastern Europe
18.00% Southeast Asia
4.00% Oceania
4.00% Western Europe
3.00% Southern Europe
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a) Trade Capacity
Nearest Port Shanghai
Export Percentage 30% - 50%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 20-35 People
Language Spoken: English; Chinese
b) Factory Information
Factory Size: Above 6000.00 square meters
No. of Production Lines Above 8
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered
Product Price Range Low; Average

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