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Woven Film; MPC

Woven Film; MPC

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or L/C
Min Order Qty:
10000M2 m²
Supply Capability:
20000M2 Per Day m²/month

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1. Specification of Woven Film

Aluminum foil: Metallizedpolyester: 12u / Polyethylene / Polyethylene Woven Fabric/Aluminum foil: 7u

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES:

PROPERTIES

UNIT

VALUE

TEST METHOD

Basic weight

gsm

140

ASTM D646

Tensile strength: M. D.

                X. D.

N/25mm

450

450

ASTM C1136

Burst strength

N

150

ASTM D774

Reflectivity of foil surface

%

95

----------

Temp. Resistance

-29°C

+66°C

No change

 keep soft

ASTM C1263

Water vapor permeance

ng/N.s

1.6

ASTM E-96

Water Soak Test

24hrs

No delamination

----------

Width: 1.2m, 1.25m, 1.3m

Length: 60m, 100m, 120m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1)

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

Remarks:

(1).The data above are typical results and subject to change without notice.

(2).Tolerance: Weight and Thickness: ±10%; Width: ±3mm; Length: Cut Roll & Log Roll ±0.3m, Jumbo Roll ±0.5%.

(3).The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

(4).It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

(5).The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

 

2. Application of Woven Film

Foil facing is mainly used for duct wrap in HVAC sustem and other fields, such as vapor barrier etc., and suitable for off-line lamination of glass wool or rock wool. By special processing, the facing will have excellent flame retardant property.

 

3. Packaging & Delivery of Woven Film

Depends on the clients' requirements and the production conditions.

 strech film packaging

 pallet packaging

Q:We have recently moved into a house in Australia with a tin roof. There is a layer of 5cm batts on the rafters in the roof space, but the temp is 10-15 degrees C higher up there than in the house (with all the windows and doors open). I don't want to get air-conditioning, is there another way to insulate the roof and cool the house?
The attic will always be warmer than the house--that's the point of the insulation--to separate the heat in the attic from the cooler air in the house. However, to improve it even more, add insulation on the ceiling joists (not the roof rafters). Make sure there is plentiful ventilation in your attic (when the wind blows, you should feel it blowing inside your attic). Eave vents, ridge vents--it doesn't really matter which ones you use--but you have to have enough for the air to really flow.
Q:Why is the most insulation needed in ceilings or roofs? Just wanted to know
well insulation in general is to keep the inside temperature different than the outside. since hot air usually rises, i think it is to keep warm air form escaping in winter. also you don't usually have a heater in the attic, or air conditioning so insulation will keep the air in the attic from having an effect on the air within the house. that is my idea as to why
Q:I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (>15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2" thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3" galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?
I agree with the soundness of every part of your plan EXCEPT not removing the original shingle roof. The shingle roof is already at the end of its usable life. There’s no benefit to covering up old problems, and they will most likely affect the durability of the new roof. Plus, removing the old roof gives you the opportunity to inspect and repair any issues with the roofing deck. Your new insulation and metal roof will attach better and perform better by removing the old shingle roof.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
I think you'll get more bang for you buck just going with the radiant barrier and having a continuous ridge vent.
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
Nope. The DOW rigid insulation is an R-5/inch. So 4 inches gets you an R-20. Sorry.
Q:I have a valley between two roof peaks that gets a huge icicle every year. I know this area is not insulated very well. In the house it is a dead area between two rooms. I would like to get someone over here and blow it full of insulation (couple calls in, awaiting response). In the meantime, I do have heat tapes installed on the roof in this area. It's a 50' run, zigzagged and some goes into gutter and the downspout.I am paranoid of fire hazards and have a real problem leaving these tapes plugged in. That being said, I realize snow is all around and water is flowing in this case. Is it safe to leave these plugged in?Is there a time I should be unplugging?Will this help my icicle problem?Serious replies only please. I prefer from a licensed contractor/insulator.Thanks in advance.
I have never experienced a problem with heat tape. as long as it is in good shape and you have it plugged into a GFI, I personally wouldn't worry about it to much at all. your roof gets hotter in the summer with the sun beating on it then the heat tape can create. so it starting a fire would be unlikely. the lack of insulation in that area is compounding your problem. so get that taking care of if you can. heat tape is melting snow and ice, melting snow and ice makes ice cycles. the heat tape in the gutter will help to keep the gutters clear allowing the water to flow down the spout so in theory it should not create as many ice cycles as without the tape. again the lack of insulation is allowing more snow to melt from heat loss through the roof. hope this helped, good luck
Q:Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.
Q:Are black concrete roof tiles for my house uncomfortably hot even with roof under sheeting and insulation?
It would be easier for you to keep your house cool if the tiles were white, or at least terra cotta. However, if you have good sheathing and insulation, it shouldn't be outrageously expensive to have black tiles. If you live in a climate that has snow, the black tiles should absorb enough heat that you won't have to go up there and shovel snow off.
Q:We had a water leak in our pipes in our foundation and had to re-route our pipes along our roof. We have tried some really basic insulation for piping, but it usually deteriorates very quickly due to sun light and wind. What are some ways we can insulate our pipes effectively without having to re-insulate every month? This has to be something fairly simple and inexpensive. We aren't looking for perfect insulation, just something that will keep the water warm in the winter and cool in the summer.
Contact a local remodeling contractor and install the new piping system properly. Even a system under a foundation can be repaired, but it is not cheap to do it.
We are a well-known enterprise specializing in the production and sales of high-grade meltalized film, foil film, foil foam and other composite product. Since the establishment of our company, we have been devoted to setting up a good reputation in the world.

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location Hangzhou, China
Year Established 2006
Annual Output Value Above US$ 18 Million
Main Markets 10.00% Mid East
15.00% Northern Europe
10.00% North America
22.00% Eastern Asia
7.00% Africa
7.00% Eastern Europe
18.00% Southeast Asia
4.00% Oceania
4.00% Western Europe
3.00% Southern Europe
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port Shanghai
Export Percentage 30% - 50%
No.of Employees in Trade Department 20-35 People
Language Spoken: English; Chinese
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size: Above 6000.00 square meters
No. of Production Lines Above 8
Contract Manufacturing OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered
Product Price Range Low; Average

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