Single Side Woven Foil;FPC

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT or L/C

Min Order Qty:: 10000M2 m²

Supply Capability:: 20 Tons Per Week m²/month

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Specifications of FPC

Construction:

Aluminum foil: Aluminum: 7u / Polyethylene / Polyethylene Woven Fabric

Typical Physical Properties:

PROPERTIES	UNIT	VALUE	TEST METHOD
Basic weight	gsm	110	ASTM D646
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D.	N/25mm	400 400	ASTM C1136
Burst strength	N	140	ASTM D774
Reflectivity of foil surface	%	95	----------
Temp. Resistance	-29°C +66°C	No change keep soft	ASTM C1263
Water vapor permeance	ng/N.s	1.6	ASTM E-96
Water Soak Test	24hrs	No delamination	----------

Width: 1.2m, 1.25m, 1.3m,1.5m

Length: 60m, 100m, 120m

Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1)

Based on order, special sizes are also available.

Remarks:

1. The data above are typical results and subject to change without notice.

2. Tolerance: Weight and Thickness: ±10%; Width: ±3mm;

Length: Cut Roll & Log Roll ±0.3m, Jumbo Roll ±0.5%.

3. The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

4. It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.

5. The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.

2. Usage/Applications of FPC

Double sided aluminum foil vapor barrier, whose structure is aluminum foil/ high strength kraft/fiberglass scrim/aluminum foil and laminated together by special flame retardant adhesive, can be used for roofing, wall insulation of house, warehouse, cold storages, factory and others.

3. Packaging & Delivery of FPC

Each roll is packed by kraft paper than put on the pallets.

FPC PACKING

Q:I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.: Spray in foam could be an option.. you would need to talk to someone who knows more than I do.. but Ive seen great results

Q:I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?: No matter what material you use for the actual roofing, make sure you have a Radiant Barrier installed at the same time. There are several different ways this can be achieved, your roofing contractor can (and should) advise you on the best method for your home.

Q:Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)

Q:1) What thickness of rigid insulation is used on flat roofs?: Flat Roof Insulation Thickness

Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?: it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.

Q:what's the best insulation for ceilling for house with semi flat roof?: The pitch of your roof has nothing to do with the kind of insulation you should use. I recommend a fiberglass insulation that is at least 6 inches thick, the more you put in the better.

Q:attic insulation: Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.

Q:I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.: I'm not sure if your questioning what to do before or after. A lot of experience contractors that work with insulation use generous amounts of baby powder on their skin before covering up prior to work. The baby powder fills up the pores keeping the insulation out. Insulation can travel through cotton clothing, but it is better than nothing. After the work is done wash off with cold water. The cold water closes the pores in your skin, while rinsing off the bulk of the insulation on your skin. Then use any temperature you like to complete the process.

Q:... building code max. (R-50)???: "R" I think stands for "Resistance" factor against heat loss. It resists the heat transfer but doesn't stop it. There is no such thing as perfect insulation. Snow itself is a rather good insulator. So even though you are only losing very little heat, the snow on top of the snow directly on the roof helps trap that heat at the bottom. So the first layer will melt.

Q:attic is 400 sq ft.there are 4 round 6'' Vents in soffit,and 2 roof vents-12&quot;x12&quot;.Rock wool,blown in,R/30 NO VAPOR BARRIER.Why the mold?no gable or ridge vent either.How do i fix this?There are baffles in attic,rafters are not blocked.: You still don't have enough attic ventilation. Definitely need more soffit vents. Roof mounted turbine vents that turn in the wind help suck more air through the attic. This coupled with at least one gable end vent should stop further mold. Removing old mold is a hassle, but can be done using diluted bleach in a lawn pump sprayer. A respirator will be needed to ensure you can breathe while applying the bleach solution.

We are a well-known enterprise specializing in the production and sales of high-grade meltalized film, foil film, foil foam and other composite product. Since the establishment of our company, we have been devoted to setting up a good reputation in the world.

1. Manufacturer Overview
Location	Zhejiang, China
Year Established	2004
Annual Output Value	Above US$ 0.2 billion
Main Markets	20.00% Mid East 15.00% Northern Europe 15.00% North America 12.00% Eastern Asia 10.00% Africa 9.00% Eastern Europe 8.00% Southeast Asia 4.00% Oceania 3.00% Western Europe 2.00% Southern Europe Mid East；South east asia；North America
Company Certifications	ISO 9001

2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name
Range
Reference
Validity Period

3. Manufacturer Capability
a)Trade Capacity
Nearest Port	Shanghai
Export Percentage	41% - 50%
No.of Employees in Trade Department	20 People
Language Spoken:	English; Chinese
b)Factory Information
Factory Size:	Above 100,000 square meters
No. of Production Lines	Above 4
Contract Manufacturing	OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered
Product Price Range	Average