TPO Roofing Insulation Single Side Woven Foil FPC
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000M2 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20 Tons Per Week m²/month
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Specifications of FPC
Construction:
Aluminum foil: Aluminum: 7u / Polyethylene / Polyethylene Woven Fabric
Typical Physical Properties:
PROPERTIES |
UNIT |
VALUE |
TEST METHOD | ||||
Basic weight |
gsm |
110 |
ASTM D646 | ||||
Tensile strength: M. D. X. D. |
N/25mm |
400 400 |
ASTM C1136 | ||||
Burst strength |
N |
140 |
ASTM D774 | ||||
Reflectivity of foil surface |
% |
95 |
---------- | ||||
Temp. Resistance |
-29°C +66°C |
No change keep soft |
ASTM C1263 | ||||
Water vapor permeance |
ng/N.s |
1.6 |
ASTM E-96 | ||||
Water Soak Test |
24hrs |
No delamination |
---------- |
Width: 1.2m, 1.25m, 1.3m,1.5m
Length: 60m, 100m, 120m
Core I.D.: 3"(76mm ±1)
Based on order, special sizes are also available.
Remarks:
1. The data above are typical results and subject to change without notice.
2. Tolerance: Weight and Thickness: ±10%; Width: ±3mm;
Length: Cut Roll & Log Roll ±0.3m, Jumbo Roll ±0.5%.
3. The products should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.
4. It is essential, as with all pressure-sensitive tapes, that the surface to which the tape is applied must be clean, dry, and free of grease and oil.
5. The user should take test and do trial-application on the above products before coming into application so as to witness and ensure suitability for user’s special purpose and technique.
2. Usage/Applications of FPC
Double sided aluminum foil vapor barrier, whose structure is aluminum foil/ high strength kraft/fiberglass scrim/aluminum foil and laminated together by special flame retardant adhesive, can be used for roofing, wall insulation of house, warehouse, cold storages, factory and others.
3. Packaging & Delivery of FPC
Each roll is packed by kraft paper than put on the pallets.
- Q: Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
- Oh yeah. You need insulation. Think of it this way. If you turned a stove top burner on medium-low and placed one of those roof tiles on it, it would be too hot to pick up. If you put down a small piece of insulation first, you'd be able to pick up the tile with no problem.
- Q: I would like to find foam type tiles for my roof of decking, insulation?
- www.okorder I checked the website I posted by searching 'foam roofing' on google. This link is what I found but there are others... Google it to find your best deal. I think I will spray this stuff under my pier and beam home just to insulate. Thanks for the tip! I can buy this product, apply it myself and cut the cost down to 1/3 or more.
- Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
- The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
- Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
- Q: A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US)
- If your insulation gets wet while the roof was removed, you will most likely have mold/mildew problems after the roof is replaced. While the roof is off, it's an excellent idea to inspect the insulation are replace as necessary. If your roofer isn't going to protect your insulation while it is exposed, find another roofer.
- Q: Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
- The foamboard can be installed in between the beams Do NOT use adhesives to fasten the foamboards or drywall. The adhesive will deteriorate over time and the foamboards and drywall will fall down. Many municipalities do not allow materials to be attached only by adhesives especially on walls and ceilings. Nail or screw 1 X 3 or 1 X 4 boards under the foamboard from beam to beam spaced about 16 inches apart. Screw drywall for fireproofing to the 1 X 3s or 4s and this will also hide the foam boards. Tape and seal the joints
- Q: a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
- a foolish product of college education in the building trades. it's pretty much taking over. real tradesmen saw that ship sink a while ago and are getting better at treading water.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!
- Q: i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
- Hey, Why not just sell the leftovers and make some dough instead? You can list them on craigslist or OKorder. Just a suggestion :) Regards, J
- Q: What can i do to add more insulation in a addition in my house?The Roof is flat on this addition (no attic room for insulation there).Looks like it's only 4 or 5 inches thick, starts from the inside with 1/2 inch drywall and the rest is plywood, and then that black sheeting on the outside.IS THERE ANYTHING MORE THAT CAN BE DONE TO ADD MORE INSULATION ON THE OUTSIDE?, (i can't do anything on the inside since the ceiling is already low) SINCE IN THIS ROOM IS VERY HOT, even touching the celing feels warm, PLEASE HELP!
- You could build a pitched roof on top of the flat roof.
1. Manufacturer Overview
Location | Zhejiang, China |
Year Established | 2004 |
Annual Output Value | Above US$ 0.2 billion |
Main Markets | 20.00% Mid East 15.00% Northern Europe 15.00% North America 12.00% Eastern Asia 10.00% Africa 9.00% Eastern Europe 8.00% Southeast Asia 4.00% Oceania 3.00% Western Europe 2.00% Southern Europe Mid East;South east asia;North America |
Company Certifications | ISO 9001 |
2. Manufacturer Certificates
a) Certification Name | |
Range | |
Reference | |
Validity Period |
3. Manufacturer Capability
a) Trade Capacity | |
Nearest Port | Shanghai |
Export Percentage | 41% - 50% |
No.of Employees in Trade Department | 20 People |
Language Spoken: | English; Chinese |
b) Factory Information | |
Factory Size: | Above 100,000 square meters |
No. of Production Lines | Above 4 |
Contract Manufacturing | OEM Service Offered; Design Service Offered |
Product Price Range | Average |
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TPO Roofing Insulation Single Side Woven Foil FPC
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or L/C
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000M2 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20 Tons Per Week m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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