• Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction System 1
  • Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction System 2
  • Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction System 3
Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction

Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
100 roll
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Aluminum Core Electrical Wire for Construction

 

Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)

  • Type: InsulatedModel Number: BV BLV BVVB BVR RV RVB RVV

  • Application: Construction

  • Conductor Material: Copper Aluminum

  • Conductor Type: Stranded

  • Insulation Material: PVC

  • Color: Red Black Blue Yellow

  • Certificate: IEC ASTM DIN BS

  • Credit: Sincere Service

  • Professional Technology: Competitive Price

Best-selling Aluminum Core Electrical Wire

 

1. Application
Copper Core PVC Insulation Power Wire is fit for ac rated voltage 450/750V


2.Specification size and technological data

Type

Name

Laying place and requirement

 

Crated voltage

Nominal Section (mm2

227IEC01(BV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated wires

 

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated wires

Fixed laid indoors

Conduit etc.

450/750

 

300/500

 

450/750

 

1.5...185

 

227IEC05 (BV)

 

0.5...1

 

BLV

 

2.5...185

 

 

BLVV

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round wires

Fixed laid, fit for the places with high mechanical protection and moisture place, can be laid in the air or underground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BVVB

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

300/500

1...10

BLVVB

Aluminum conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed flat wires

300/500

2.5...10

 

227IEC02(RV)

 

227IEC06(RV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible connector wire

 

 

 

Mainly used at middle and light style moving electronics, home appliances, power and lighting and the places where flexible required

 

450/750

 

300/500

 

1.5...240

 

0.3...1

227IEC42(RVB)

Copper conductor PVC insulated flat flexible connector wire

300/300

0.3...1.5

 

RVS

 

Copper conductor PVC insulated flexible twisting connector wire

300/300

0.3...1.5

227IEC52(RVV)

 

227IEC53(RVV)

Copper conductor PVC insulated PVC sheathed round flexible connector wire

300/300

 

300/500

0.5...6

 

0.3...4

 

 

Pictures

Q: What is the phase voltage of the three alternating current lines?
The control cable is divided into two types: power type and signal type. The operating voltage is also divided into high pressure type (within 1000 volts) and low pressure type (within 200 volts) High pressure type for wire power transmission instruction Low pressure type for low-voltage electronic equipment command signal transmission! Including within 127 volts of control power transmission! Practical work commonly known as control cable and signal cable!
Q: I need to know if tackling a electrical light project by myself is doable, I have a fundamental understanding of electronics (no electrical background though)
I have done electrical work since i was 10 working with dad. I just retired with many city and state licenses. Most house fires are caused by people trying to do what you are. I'm not saying you can't but there are so many codes you could violate that could cause your home owners insurance to become null and void. I've personally seen it many times. A guy burned down a $750,000 house wiring up a fountain in his back yard because of loose wires he connected. Get an Electrician.
Q: I need to melt fishing line with the resistance in an electrical wire powered by a 9 volt battery. how do i go about this safely??
If aluminum wiring is put in wisely and maintained wisely there's no subject. there is probable a unfastened connection at your outlet that the microwave is plugged into. maximum probable somebody replaced that outlet with a CU merely outlet and it would be CU/AL (copper/aluminum) it rather is greater costly. we've aluminum wiring in our domicile and have in no way had a topic. i take advantage of the right merchants and make useful they are stable and tight while changing an outlet, which you will possibly desire to do with copper wiring additionally. So, I propose you examine that outlet and alter it out if needed. shrink off the small area of undesirable twine before changing the opening.
Q: Does anyone know what the voltage means on electrical wire sheathing? Some 14AWG wires show 600V and others are 800V.I have a burnt wire that shows 1000V.They are all 14AWG, stranded, copper wire. I just don't know what the voltage rating means. Does the wire support up to that many volts or does the sheath resist heat better the higher the number is?
It probably means that the insulation on the wire conforms to some standard, and that the cable may LEGALLY be used for permanent wiring in a building at voltages up to whatever number. It's not about heat. When power wiring in a building gets hot, it's strictly because of the amperage that the circuit is carrying, not the voltage. High voltages are a problem because of the tendency to arc. Electric fields are measured in Volts/meter (i.e., the voltage difference between two conductors, divided by the distance between them.) Any given electric insulator will break down and allow current to flow if the field strength is high enough. Cables that are rated for higher voltages either use an insulating material that has a higher dielectric strength (i.e., able to withstand stronger fields), or they use bulkier insulation, so that the distance between the conductors is greater.
Q: There is a blue, gray, one side is the yellow side is green three lines, how to distinguish between the line of fire, zero line, ground? More
Do not believe the wire color, test with a test pen, remember the "safety first"! The The
Q: I have a box in my bathroom with 2 light switches. I'm trying to replace one light switch with a light switch + outlet. The existing switch has a black (hot) wire and a black output to the light fixture. I need to add a common/neutral/white wire to the new switch which will also have a GFCI 120v outlet. In the box there are 4 white wires connected together with one of those 4-plug wire connectors. I have always used twist-caps before to connect 3 wires at most. I am not familiar with these plug-in type connectors. It looks like those plugs are one-way / insert only / no removal. I believe I need to tap into that with a 5th white wire, but there are no open slots in the plug connector. What should I do?
In my opinion, these things Quik-Conns, are trouble. The safest, best way out of this is to call a pro. The reason why is that the NEC does not allow a GFCI receptacle on with a lighting circuit. If you have a stack switch/GFCI receptacle, you will notice that there wires coming from the switch part while the GFCI has screw terminals. This is so they shall be kept separate. Good luck in all you do and may God bless. EDIT: The only acceptable way to remove wires from them is to cut them loose. If you pull, tug or jerk them out, you will actually loosen the tabs that make contact, thus causing a loose connection which leads to them overheating. Heat cause fire. Get the point? If you have to do this, Cut them. Strip 1-1/4 of insulation off of the four existing wires and 1 pig-tail. Twist all 5 wires together, cutting off the excess. Install a Big Blue wire-nut. I advise against doing it this way, as it will not meet the National Electrical Code, and insurance companies look for ANYTHING to deny a claim.
Q: I am wanting to install a ceiling light in my laundry room, and a light switch. Will I have to cut out the entire ceiling and wall to do this? I thought about using fish tape, but I was curious if I would run into beams. Will I also have to run new wire all the way back to the electrical box and a new breaker?
Flat Electrical Wire
Q: Basically I've got 1 ceiling light in the hallway but I want two. How do I split the 3 wires from the Original light to get them to connect to the 2nd light. I have the relevant wire just no idea how to split
Probably you have three wires coming off the light fixture and connecting to three electrical wires (black, white, bare copper) in a plastic box in the ceiling with wire nuts. Remove the wire nuts and you just need to splice in new cable, matching the wire colors. You may need to get bigger wire nuts as you will now be covering a splice of 3 wires instead of two. If multiple switches control this light, you'll have a 4th wire in the mix. Run the new cable out of the box into the attic and over to where you want the new light. Cut out the hole in the ceiling, install another box, and attach the wires to the new fixture, again by matching the colors. Jim W is right in that you should do a little research (you'll find plenty on the internet) on basic wiring principles. Make sure the new wire is the same gauge as the existing with to the existing fixture. Always make all connections inside a box. Use wire nuts on all connections.
Q: i need to run an eletrical wire from one building to another. both have breaker boxes the first is a 200 amp which will feed a 100amp
If you are underground, the wire needs to be at least 36 deep and covered with a warning tape, and fine sand or topsoil, unless you are in rigid steel conduit. If the wire is going to be in conduit, it still needs to be inspected by the AHJ before you pull the wire and after the whole job is finished. Also you need to buy the proper permits and or you jeopardize the resale value of the property if it is not properly inspected. To pull the wire through the conduit will take at least 2 people, you also need to have the correct type of circuit breaker. It is so much easier, faster and in the long run cheaper to have a qualified professional electrician do the work.
Q: 1.5 air-conditioning power cord to use more cross-section of the wire?
Look at the following steps . you can try to clean the data cable plug, such as with rubber, dry cloth, then the iPhone's power outlet is also clean, re-insert. 2. Shut down the phone I often encounter this situation 3. The above two methods may not be able to solve the problem, if you need to solve the fundamental problem, it needs to replace the data line. If you are using the Apple iPhone6 phone, it is recommended to bring the original data cable to Apple after the sale that the situation, check to see if you can replace the data cable free of charge. I recommend buying a brand of charging lines, almost 40 to 120 between the price.

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords