Fiberglass Porch Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 20mm Thickness Good Sale
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 m²/month
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Fiberglass Ceiling - concealed edge C
The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.
Installation method:
Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.
Tiles are easy to trim and install
Both inches and metric grids are available
Main Characteristic:
Non-combustible
No sagging,wrapping or delaminating
Green building material
Excellent sound absorption
Application:
Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.
Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.
Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.
- Q: We had a plaster ceiling that was cracking. We put new drywall up over the ceiling and finished the seams. We have finished drywall before, but only on wall. Apparently ceilings are alot harder. We have a tetured wall and really do not want a texture on the ceiling (we would never be able to match the textures anyway). We have primed and painted the ceiling with flat paint and can see the seams. We do not have alot of light in the room either. Does anyone have any suggestions to hide the seams? Thanks
- One problem I can see is that your joints may not be flush which makes the problem worst. If they are level with each other, apply your tape and then apply an 8 wide coat over that feathering the edges. Let dry and lightly sand rough spots. Go back over with a 10, resand to where it looks smooth but don't worry about divits or small blemishes. Finally Go over it with 12 knife with a tight coat. Your basically putting it on and taking it off with more pressure just to fill in any blemishes. Then lightly sand. Make sure to use lightweight joint compound for finishing. If it is uneven, you must do a coat on each side of the joint, sometimes 3 or 4 rows of mud to get it to where you cannot feel a ridge running your hand over it. Remember the wider that you feather it out, the smoother it will look. As for texturing, you can leave it smooth if you want. But texture will hide small blemishes. You can use knockdown, popcorn (acoustic) or stomp the ceilings with a pattern. Use flat paint afterwords.
- Q: we have numerous recessed light fixtures in our ceiling. Is fiberglass insulation flammable?
- The fiberglass or the paper may contact the light housing without any risk of fire, the housing is designed to shield the insulation from the heat. You could even put blown-in insulation next to it.
- Q: This is an old house and has wood and some type of dry cement-type material in between the wood slats. I stepped on the ceiling while doing an insulation job in the attic. The wood is fine but the dryed material cracked and separated from the wood slats in the bathroom. The damages area is around 18 inches by 12 inches, and some cracks in other areas of the ceiling. I do not want to sheetrock the whole bathroom if i can avaoid it (too many projects in this ol house). thanks!
- It sounds like you're describing old horsehair plaster, & fixing it's not that big of a deal, there are just a few steps involved. Basically what you need to do is to round out & stabilize your hole so that it can either be re-plastered or mostly patched w/drywall & then finished w/joint compound. The first step is re-attaching the plaster to the lathing (those wooden slats) & to do that you need these little plastic/metal washers that you can find at a good hardware/builder supply store & these are attached to drywall screws which then get screwed into the lathing a few inches away from the damage until you've got a flush surface again to work with. I'd love to tell you how many you need/etc., but it's just one of those things where you need to be there..... Anyways, once you've got a solid hole across this somewhat level surface take a beat up blade (I like using a 5 in 1) & key the damaged edges which means about a 45 degree angle so that you've got more patching material towards the lathes. It gives a more secure bond this way. Then you either screw in a piece of drywall of the appropriate thickness into the hole & patch & tape from there, or you can learn about plastering, but it doesn't sound like you want to go that route from the question. A quarter to half inch gap is fine for the patching between, & I've even used plaster of paris for the patching when I didn't want to wait for mud to dry, but that involves a learning curve to perfect, & that's your warning on that route. As far as the cracks go, take your hand & see if you can move the ceiling, & if you can then it's back to the screws & washers for the area around the cracks & that part is actually fun if necessary as you can watch a go back to being level. Then bust out the cracks a bit & patch them. A bit of fiberglass tape over the washers before you mud them helps them disappear. Have fun!
- Q: Fiberglass sound-absorbing ceiling features
- (GB9624-997) anti-tide anti-sag: in the room ~ temperature 40QCIX summer relative humidity is 90%, the size of the stability
- Q: I have a partially finished basement, hardwood floors above. What can I do soundproof the unfinished ceiling? I'm not planning on finishing, I want that area to serve as a hang out spot for the family and I don't want to worry about fiberglass dust.
- To sound proof you need to do two things, isolate and absorb. This means that the surface facing the basement should not be in direct contact with the floor above and some sort of material with adequate mass needs to be between to absorb the sound. It sounds like you don't want to go overboard with this project so I would suggest insulation batts and a dropped ceiling. Dow makes a 'safetouch' insulation that does not create dust and that you do not need to use a mask while installing (though I still would). There are newer styles of dropped ceilings out there now with a lower profile that use tracks that are relatively easy to install. I think one brand is called CeilingLink. This will look nice, block a lot of sound and allow access in case it is needed in the future. Best of luck, and maybe consider a radon gas detector.
- Q: Epoxy resin when the ratio of curing agent than the high proportion of what impact? What is the impact of low. What is the reason for hardening after curing?
- Curing agent will increase the speed of curing more, put less curing time will be slower. But do not be higher or lower too much, whether it is more or less, excessive will appear false curing. That is what you said after curing is not hard
- Q: I had the roof replaced last summer, but havent had the energy to get up there and take down the ceiling tiles and the fiberglass insulation. I started removing it a section at a time a week ago, and wow! What a mess!. Gravel is falling down on my head and the insulation and tiles are dry now, but its still hard to pull them out. Should I be wearing a mask? Is there anything in the old dried out insulation and ceiling tiles that I should cover my nose? Its making a really big mess, so any suggestions will be helpful.
- No Brainer , YES,YES,YES. You might even put on ball cap.
- Q: Recently, the company looking for a house waterproof building materials are placed inside the ceiling, called linoleum paper (linen paper), also known as asphalt paper, English called Felt or Tar paper Alibaba can be found at present I want to find specifications and models are D-4869 1 * 20 meters but Alibaba is basically 17 to 18 kg but there are 5 to 7 kg of the situation, what is this situation?
- Can find the manufacturers, you call them directly to ask not better
- Q: How much do you want to do with noise equipment?
- The two woods to the ears of a plug (insert deep point) package you have a good sound insulation Or free Oh ~ ~
- Q: But it's fiberglass and needs to be flexible for when it moves. I think actual mirrors will crack and be too heavy. What do I use for the mirrored effect?
- a fabric called mylar. The material most ballons are made from.
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Fiberglass Porch Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 20mm Thickness Good Sale
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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