Flexable 24x24 Fiberglass Acoustic Ceiling Tiles Density 130k - Good Sale
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m²/month
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The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.
Installation method:
Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.
Tiles are easy to trim and install
Both inches and metric grids are available
Main Characteristic:
Non-combustible
No sagging,wrapping or delaminating
Green building material
Excellent sound absorption
Application:
Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.
Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.
Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.
- Q: I had my house re roofed last year and the roof leaked into a large utility room. I took the drop ceiling out and took down the ceiling panels above it and now I have to replace the insulation and put a ceiling back in. Its a very high celing unless I replace the drop ceiling panels here. Any suggestions? What kind of insulation should I use? I noticed some of the insulation has different numbers and some of it is very expensive so how do I know what to use?
- The numbers associated with it are called R Value. As a rule of thumb, the higher R Value numbers, the better. For example, fiberglass has about R 3 per inch (least expensive) and rigid foam has about an R 6 per inch (most expensive). If you have plenty of space to work with, you could do 10 inches of fiberglass (or a similar mineral fiber type insulation) and get the same results as if you used 5 inches of foam. It just depends on your situation. If you are in a very cold climate, I would suggest insulating to an R 49. If you are in a very hot climate, I would suggest insulating to an R 19 with a radiant barrier (more efficient than R 30 in warm, sunny climates). If you are in a moderate climate, you could be anywhere in the middle.
- Q: Details: The house is a 3 story house. When showering on the 2nd or 3rd floor, the living room ceiling leaked. Not just 1-2 drops but we had to get a bucket and you can see the staining on the ceiling. This was 4-5 years ago and we stopped using these showers. No further leaking when NOT using the showers. The contractor opened the ceiling today near the staining and turned on the showers. He said that there was no leaking. What happened? Any suggestions? Thanks.
- Did the plumber stand in the shower and move around, jump up and down and attempt to distort the floor of the shower? Did he deflect the shower as would occur with someone actually standing in the shower, such that water would splash against the walls, back at the faucets, etc? Did he turn on both the hot and cold water? I would actually have someone use the shower, in particular whomever used the shower before when it leaked - the reason being that maybe something they were doing caused water to be diverted enough that it found a place to escape the shower stall and/or floor pan.
- Q: Drawing a candy shop, what should i put on the ceiling apart from lights??
- The ceiling should be tiled like peppermints!! ^o^
- Q: Our basement bedroom does not have insulation in ceiling between joists but it is possible to insulate from another area that is not finished but I would have to use the insulation which is blown in between the joists. Is this a good insulation and is it practical to do for noise reduction? Otherwise, we would have to tear out the ceiling in the bedroom and use the fiberglass insulation. Do you have any other ideas or suggestions for noise reduction? This is a new home.
- You wouldn't be able to poke in Fiberglass that's for sure. Also it doesn't absorb that much sound anyway. Blown in wouldn't help that much either (after a couple of years it settles anyway). You appear to be looking for sound proofing. There are many different kinds of ceiling tile out there and you should check out as to which works best and include wall material too as just the ceiling alone may not do the job well enough plus you would need to do the door too. (There isn't much you can do about the windows unless you block them). Best of all check out a building materials store or someone who has done something similar. Good luck!
- Q: We had our carpets removed a while ago and installed laminate flooring instead.As a result, the house is not as warm as it used to be.Will it help if I add R13 insulation in the basement ceiling ? Will it keep the living room floor (which is just above the basement) warmer ?On the same manner, will adding another layer of insulation to the attic help in the winter and summer as well ?As for the mositure barrier paper, if I understand correctly, it should be facing up both cases, right ?
- A vapor barrier always will go the heated side. But in you situation, just use unfaced insualtion in both applications. DO NOT use any plastic to cover anything. This will only trap moisture.
- Q: Moved into a new home several months ago and noticed that the seams in the ceiling connecting the drywall can actually be seen in one room. Is this a common problem?? and what can be done. Do I have any recourse??
- I am a 37 year experienced painter, which has included tons of drywall finishing as well...Now days people use that crappy fiberglass tape and assume this will save one coat of mud(joint compound) on the ceilings, and walls as well...A real finisher will use the paper tape and apply the full 3 coats required and not two like most of these handyman/fiberglass tape users...They have been doing this for years ..quality workmanship is hard to find..also alot of people think that you simply run the joint compound down the center of the tape and this is called taping and floating..not so..to float...means to make even..some joints require floating out to one side or the other..sometime both on bad rafters as far as 36 inches to either side..You do not see that much anymore..they run the joint compound down the center of the joint..and think that is all thier is to it...Your problem is shoddy tradesmen/builders...
- Q: When I moved into my house the ceiling was cracked from the ceiling fan out to the walls in two directions. I don't want to put new wall board up and repairing the crack is not possible according to my Husband. What are some ways to cover the ceiling up?
- It's possible the crack is caused by someone/something in the attic, if that is above. If so, don't walk up there and crack should not occur again. If not an attic above, but another floor instead, it's possible that something/somebody heavy caused the crack. Lastly, it could be the floor joists/ceiling joists are insufficient to support the weight on them, including the cracked sheetrock. If this is true, you have a structural problem that will probably continue to cause overhead sheetrock cracks. However, repairing the present cracks is not that difficult. Best idea is to use a utility knife/box cutter to dig a shallow V shaped groove along the crack, then use joint compound and paper tape as with any sheetrock finish work. Another less messy option is to use fiberglass self-sticking mesh tape, sold for sheetrock finishing, and joint compound over that. Some practive to feather all edges is needed or the results could be as bad or worse than your cracks. If you just can't do any of the above, a thin bead of silicone caulk pressed into and along the crack, can mask the worst of the crack!
- Q: Second - hand housing renovation need to pay attention to what the problem
- For gas pipelines such as dangerous pipes, it is best to ask professionals to detect. New paint wall frequently Diaoqi Why second-hand housing selection of brand-name paint, the new brush wall or frequently drop paint? The reason is that before the paint to play a good foundation, directly to the wall to paint the way is improper, generally have to remove some of the original mottled old paint, and then from the new interface began to paint, including the bottom of the waterproof And so on, the best professional construction personnel, so that better protection of future use of the effect. The socket is too inconvenient to use some friends simply renovated on the found, many electrical appliances can not find the socket, had to buy some of the activities of the outlet, but too many lines tangled together to watch people upset. Modern life, more and more household appliances, the demand for the socket is also increasing, the old house in the design of the socket is often difficult to achieve the current needs of the use. So the decoration may wish to reserve some of the socket, to facilitate future use. Balcony to change the kitchen fumes so as to broaden the use of the area, some homeowners will be closed to the balcony north, into the kitchen, and then the original kitchen made of storage or other uses. But once really live in, you will find that as long as the beginning of cooking, the whole family are smoke flavor. So the balcony to the kitchen to be careful
- Q: I just bought a home with an unfinished basement. I was thinking of finishing the basement and creating a game room. I wanted to soundproof it but I dont want to spend a ton of money. I know that I can buy soundproof drywall but that stuff is expensive!Is there anything that I can stuff between the ceiling beams to soundproof the room? I dont want to put in a double layer of sheetrock becuase the ceiling is already only 7 feet.Thanks!
- come off a dollar and do it right, it is a one time expense for crying in the barn already.. rk is a great sound dampener... a music production room in a hippy commune i lived in back in the 70's had cork on the walls and ceiling and door. it was great...the musicians could be in there amping totally to the moon and you could barely hear them in the rest of the house.... cry me a river about expense or cry a river about noise...your choice.
- Q: What is the characteristics of the vitreous sound board?
- Can effectively control and adjust the indoor reverberation time, reduce noise and improve sound quality. Fiberglass sound absorption ceiling has a good thermal insulation properties for air-conditioned places, can reduce the impact of the outside world on the indoor temperature, thus effectively saving energy Fiberglass sound - absorbing cements hardly absorb moisture from the air, have excellent moisture resistance, and maintain stability from size to flatness in any humid environment.
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Flexable 24x24 Fiberglass Acoustic Ceiling Tiles Density 130k - Good Sale
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 3000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 50000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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