• Fiberglass Insulation Basement Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 15mm Thickness Hot Sale System 1
  • Fiberglass Insulation Basement Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 15mm Thickness Hot Sale System 2
  • Fiberglass Insulation Basement Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 15mm Thickness Hot Sale System 3
Fiberglass Insulation Basement Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 15mm Thickness Hot Sale

Fiberglass Insulation Basement Ceiling - Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 15mm Thickness Hot Sale

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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The tile is made by high-density fiberglass with compound decoration wool on the surface and fiberglass wool on the back .The edges are painted. With the characteristics of square in edges    and angle,it will be parallel to suspension system after installation.

 

Product Applications:

 

The titles are manufactured from high density dry felf resin bonded fiberglass wool, with fine texture painted glass tissue facer,plain tissue backer and sealed and painted edges.square edge titles will be paralled to suspension system after installation. 

 

Product Advantages:

 

1.  Materials:made by fiberglass,tension-strong.  

2.  Fire-proof:Grade A,tested by national authoritative department(GB9624-1997)

3.  Moisture-proof and sunk-proof:Good dimensional stability when temperature is below 40 degree and moisture is below 90%.

4.  Environmentally friendly:Both of the products and package can be recycled 

5.  High strength and small density, very suitable for ceiling decoration.
6.  Easy installation, attractive design. Low cost, competitive price

7. The  gypsum ceiling boards are applicable to business building, hotel, hospital, factory,      shopping mall and other public building and family decoration.

8.The design is novel, any pattern can be applied

 

Main Product Features:

 

Material: Torrefaction Compounded high density fiberglass wool

Face: Special painting laminated with decorative fiberglass tissue

Color: white, black and others to order

Fire-resistant: class A, non combustible

NRC: 0.9-1.0, excellent sound absorption

Thermal-resistant: >0.4 (m2k/w)

Humidity: Dimensionally stable with RH up to 95% at  40c, no sagging, wrapping, or delaminating

Moisture rete:<1% (JC/T670-2005)

Enviromental impact: Tiles and packing are fully recyclable

Product Specifications:

Fiberglass Acoustic Ceiling Roof Ceiling Design

FAQ:

1)Q:Are you a factory or trading company?

A: We are a factory.

2)Q: I am interested in the products but I do not have experience

   A: Tell us your budget and target market and we will give you professional advice of exact kinds and quantity.

 

3)Q: May I get some samples of the product?

A:Yes, of course. If you need, we could sent you the small samples by the reliable delivery company such as DHL etc.

4)Q:How does your factory do regarding quality control?

A: Quality is priority, we always attach great importance to quality controlling from every worker to

the very end.

 

Images:

Q: If you were a single woman with no man around, how would you fix a hole in the ceiling from water damage? And the roof? On a budget. Is this possible for a small woman to do this job by herself? Can someone give me step by step instructions? Photo of the damage attatched.
I would repair it. It is not terribly difficult or costly - but your circumstance is complicated by the texture on the ceiling. You would need to purchase some lightweight joint compound, some fiberglass reinforcing mesh or tape, a couple of inexpensive plastic spackling knives (and you will need either a step-ladder or some other stable platform to work from. You will clean out the damaged area and remove all loose materials. Then use a knife to spread some joint compound in the hole, not too much but enough to cover everything with a thin coat. Spread the reinforcing material over this and add a small amount more compound. Smooth this as best you can with a knife. Allow to cure overnight. Repeat with thin coats of compound only until smooth. Sand lightly to remove tool marks. Now you have as smooth area in a textured area. There are texture-sprays-in-a-can that you can try, or you can just leave it smooth, Paint. Done. It takes some time, and you will learn as you go - so don't expect perfection right away. Good luck with it.
Q: I kinda left the sink on while i was taking a shower.. so when i got out my bathroom floor had water everywhere (about an inch of water)i mopped up the mess with towels but i forgot to wipe inside the cabinets (and that what caused the water to soak through according to my mom) now i'm being screamed at every. single. day.on the first floor if you look up, the ceiling pretty much dried up but theres 2 creases popping out. kind of like a loong 3-d v shape since the water soaked through and outlined the cabinets shape.and since my mom loves burdening me soo much, now my parents say that they lost 5 grand in our house's value T____Ti don't know if we're supposed to repair it, paint over it (though u can't rlly paint over it), or w/e.. does anyone know what i should do? don't tell me to call a repair man because my parents want to see their 'options' before they call themThanks.. :)
Peel away the loose and damaged surface. Get a container of 60 min sheetrock mud, fiberglass mesh tape and a trowel. Tape over the seams making sure the tape is IN the ceiling surface, put several coats (thin) on the ceiling, and then try to match the texture if you can. Paint over entire ceiling. This is what a contractor will do.
Q: How about the whole closet
The closet can be divided into different functional areas, and the surface shape is simple, elegant, stylish, and more and more people will consider the home decoration elements at the beginning of the renovation.
Q: Melamine plastic synthesis process, mainly the molding powder added in that process
There are many types of plastic products, a lot of classification methods.
Q: My neighbor told me that there is no attic space in the main bedroom. It is a 2 story house, but the master bedroom is the ONLY room that is significantly hotter than the other 2 rooms. Is it possible to put some sort of insulation over the existing ceiling and then drywall over it? Or....??????
yes it's called blown insulation,you can get it at lowe's and they will even rent you an insulation blower
Q: We had our carpets removed a while ago and installed laminate flooring instead.As a result, the house is not as warm as it used to be.Will it help if I add R13 insulation in the basement ceiling ? Will it keep the living room floor (which is just above the basement) warmer ?On the same manner, will adding another layer of insulation to the attic help in the winter and summer as well ?As for the mositure barrier paper, if I understand correctly, it should be facing up both cases, right ?
I post some insulation in my storage that's below my mattress room and that i do experience the version - I grew up in Philly and we live in a row residing house and our basement replaced into some what under floor so all we had to do replaced into insulate the residing house windows - yet once you have partitions that are dealing with the wind you are able to ought to post some thing there additionally - warmth will upward thrust some in case you are able to insulate your attic that's going to help - in case you have severe ceilings you additionally can decide to think of a pair of ceiling fan
Q: I'm thinking of adding a ceiling to my porch to create an insulation space (the roof alone radiates a lot of direct heat in the summer; the porch otherwise is open) between it and the roof (corrugated fiberglass) but I'd like to still be able to see the roof as I've already painted the roof's interior and like how it contrasts with the supporting frame's color.I'm also looking to paint the exterior of the roof to better waterproof it (some leaks where previous owner screwed it in) and to better reflect light to further reduce heat. Any suggestion on paint or would it be better to just replace the roof entirely with better material? Thanks!
You can many ways could go.
Q: I read that fiberglass insulation that has a backing sheet should have the backing sheet toward the heated space. The insulation in the basement ceiling has the backing sheet toward the inside of the basement not the bottom of the floor above. Does this trap moisture and cause a lot of harm or does it just make the insulation less effective? Do I need to take it all down and start with new insulation? Should I just add a new layer over the top what is there?
The insulation is hung properly...the paper side goes to the outside of the joists it was hung from..It is stapled in and needs the paper for something to staple too..it will not hurt the efectiveness or insulation properties at all hung that way...You cannot staple the pink part of the insulation itself..it will fall off in a matter of a few eeks..per say...when you have a wall you have to have one side on one sde of the wall to staple to..but it also insulates both sides of the walls..if this wasnt the case..they would have to put 2 bats of insulaton on every insde wall instead of just one..it will insulate bothsides
Q: I have 100 acres of arable land, looking for partners and projects, interested friends to give an answer to it!
Where? And then more to the better
Q: My studio apartment doesn't have an attic. A lot of the installation videos and articles I read online are about installing foil insulation a couple inches below the roof and above the room's ceiling. Does it matter if I install it under the ceiling (that is, the foil barrier is visible to me when inside the apartment)?Aesthetics isn't an issue. I don't mind seeing the foil. I just want to know if I can still achieve the same results whether or not I install above the ceiling. Thanks!
The foil would only radiate visible light back toward you, and fiberglass insulation ( or rigid polyisocyanurate panels covered with drywall) would create a barrier to keep the heat in your room. If just foil worked, you would assume no one would bother with installing 10 thick fiberglass to achieve an R-38 rating and spend thousands of dollars if a couple hundred of foil would do it.

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