• 3*240mm. Copper Conductor Underground Cable System 1
  • 3*240mm. Copper Conductor Underground Cable System 2
  • 3*240mm. Copper Conductor Underground Cable System 3
3*240mm. Copper Conductor Underground Cable

3*240mm. Copper Conductor Underground Cable

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m
Supply Capability:
20000 m/month

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Brief Introduction

1.Certificate:ISO,CE,SONCAP,UL
2.Asia,South Americ,Africa
3.fast delievery&reliable quality

3*240mm2 copper conductor underground cable

 

 1 Specifications

XLPE/pvc Insulated, PVC/PE Sheath
IEC 60502, IEC 60228, IEC 60332

Armour, LSZH, Fire-resistant optional

 

 

2 Constructions

Conductor

Compact Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 2 as per IEC 60228

Circular solid Copper Conductor, Class 1 as per IEC 60228

Flexible Stranded Copper Conductor, Class 5 as per IEC 60228

Conductor Screen

Semi-conductor (MV only)

Insulation

XLPE(Cross-linked polyethylene)

Insulation Screen 

Semi-conductor (MV only)

Separate Screen 

Copper Tape (MV must, LV optional)

Filler

PP Yarn, or Paper

Wrapping Tape

PP

Inner Covering

Extruded PVC (MV only)

Armour

Steel Wire, or Steel Tape, or Aluminium Tape optional

Overall Sheath

PVC or PE

 

3 Applications

Used for power transmission and distribution line with voltage rated at 35kV and below.Compared with PVC Insulated Power Cable, xlpe power cable boasts not only characteristics of excellent electricity, mechanism, heat and aging-resistant, environment stress-resistant and chemical corrosion-resistant, but also simple structure, light weight, no restriction by laying drop, and high temperature allowance for long-term working.

 

4 Standards

International: IEC 60502-2, IEC 60228

China: GB/T 12706.2-2008

Other standards such as BS,DIN and ICEA upon request 

 

5 Technical data

Rated voltage: 0.6/1kV, 1.8/3kV, 6/10kV, 8.7/10kV, 8.7/15kV, 12/20kV, 21/35kV, 26/35kV

Maximum Conductor Temperature: under normal (90°C), emergency (130°C) or short circuit no more than 5 s (250°C) conditions.

Min. Ambient Temp.  0°C, after installation and only when cable is in a fixed position

Min. Bending Radius: 20 x cable O.D for single-core non-armoured cables

                    15 x cable O.D for single-core armoured cables

                    15 x cable O.D for multi-core non-armoured cables

                    12 x cable O.D for multi-core armoured cables

 

6 Certificates

CE, RoHS, CCC and more others at request

 

7 Images

 

 

Q:When I put the laptop into hibernation, the power pack still makes a considerable amount of noise. Since the memory was saved to the hard drive, is it okay to disconnect the power cable? Please note that the battery on the computer is pretty much dead and lasts for about 2 mins tops on normal mode
If it's true hybernation (and not hybrid sleep [?] or suspend) then everything is on the hard drive and the machine is completely powered down. You can safely remove the power cable - and even the laptop battery (if you wanted to, just to prove it works) - and a hour/day/week later pop those back in and when you power back up you should be good to go. EDIT: If it's true hibernation you can leave it like that for years. (Just do a simple test without power cord or battery as mentioned here and see if it works before trusting it.)
Q:Hi,I bought a new 500GB HDD today, with a SATA cable (data) but I don't know what kind of power cable I need?I looked around and saw Sata to Molex and all kinds of things, I've never had to hook up a second hard drive before and the terms are confusing me. Could anyone tell me what kind of cable I'll need and where I'm supposed to hook them up to?Thanks!
Yes you're on the right track. There's a couple of things that need to be added to your description of the problem: Does the motherboard have connectors for SATA (the small black connector, not the old white/tan kind)? If so, all you need is a regular, everyday SATA cable to hook from the motherboard to the drive. It looks like this red cable: And the Molex (4-pin, white connector) to SATA power (small, flat, black connector) looks like this:
Q:What is the difference between a power cable and a cross-linked cable?
I do not know, I do the task, although we also engage in cable
Q:So I've been working on my computer aand looking to invest in a primary Hard Disk (instead of X2 250GB hard drives). I noticed the drive i have has Fantasy power outlets and newer models have SATA Power so I'm kind of confused on the Hard Drive i should get. I'm looking at hard drives 500GB-1TB
Fantasy power outlets don't sound standard. SATA is consistent on both PCs and Macintosh computers.
Q:Can i make the CAT 5 speaker cable, explained on many websites, as a 4 gauge power wire from my battery to my amp?
No, the cat 5 wire will heat up too fast.
Q:Hi, just moved to Finland from US. Will my x box 360 works with a new powell cable? Or do I need something else besides that. And where should I get it from in Turku or Helsinki. Thank you!
You could probably buy an adapter plug for your existing cable. Getting a whole new cable might very well mess with the machine itself, and be more expensive than a simple adapter. Just go to an electronics’ store, with the cable, (the bigger the better) and ask for a suitable adapter for it.
Q:I am thinking about buying a hard drive and a SATA to eSATA cable to get more space to store things but I dont know whether or not the eSATA cable supplies power to the hard drive like a USB port. Do I have to buy a power cable for the hard drive or will it work without one?
as far as i know you dont need anything but a SATA cable and it will power up.
Q:My hard drive uses 15-pin SATA power connectorMY new power supply doesn't have this cable but instead it has 4 pin molex connector for the hard drive15-pin SATA power connector has 5 wires with these colors and order (white-black-red-black-orange)4 pin molex colors are (red-black-black-yellow)I want to use 15-pin 'connection head' from the broken power supply but as I said it has 5 wires while my new power supply gives me 4 wires!!!!! how to connect 4 wires to five wires head??? one wire has to be canceled i guess but which one?
as quickly as upon a time, whilst i grow to be going to be on your continent for a jointly as, i offered an inverter that would enable me to run my workstation from a 12 volt motor vehicle battery. As I remember I had it set up so as that the inverter grow to be plugged in, charging the battery, and the workstation grow to be plugged into the inverter working off the mains - till the flexibility died - an unfancy ups, or possibly a actuality in merchandising ups? besides see what you will discover for installation one in each of those rig - it may remedy your problem, or it may be yet another waste of money. i'm able to assure you, i did not spend everywhere close to US$500 on the full undertaking.
Q:I am getting a new gaming computer for Christmas with a 700 watt, 12.5 AMP (I think) power supply. I have two power cords for computers on my shelf, but my dad is worried that a standard power cable won't properly power my computer. Do I need to get a more powerful cable? If so, please send a link to where I can buy one, I have been searching but only found standard ones. Thank you.
To point out some erros in the above posts, it's important to realize that the power rating you provided is a realistic one. 700W is telling me that's probably the normal operating wattage, but 12.5A is possible during startup of the unit. This rating is important, as the cables and wires within the extension cables or power bar must be able to support this current, even if momentary. Power bars will all have a set amperage rating that needs to be clearly listed on the unit in order to be legally sold in Canada. Check the rated voltage of your cables to ensure your power bar can support your machine. At 12.5A you are dangerously close to the circuit max of 15A. The standard house circuit is typically rated between 15 and 20A. This means that if you were to plug in your computer, speakers, and an second monitor you are seriously risking tripping your circuit breaker for that circuit in your house. Every plug in your home is not on it's own circuit either. Typically one or two rooms worth of power receptacles will share one circuit. Be careful and pay close attention to your power consumption on that circuit. Power loss is as harmfull and in some cases MORE harmful than power surge. Largely because there is no protection agains sudden voltage drop like there is for voltage surge. They both do essentially the same thing to your computer -- fry it.
Q:My stereo in my car is cutting out (powering off and on again) on high volumes. I'm trying to determine if it's my amp/sub-woofer or not. I switch off my amp with my remote power switch (the blue cable switch) and I still get the cut out. Is this conclusive enough to indicate that the problem is not with my amp/subwoofer?
valuable it extremely is put in on your motorized vehicle in spite of the undeniable fact that it's not extremely valuable. The gadget bypasses the main significant and ignition exchange giving capacity to the motorized vehicle and starter. issue is that your motorized vehicle will initiate however if its in kit. think of of approximately status indoors your place and and wanting to warmth up your motorized vehicle. You grab your keys and hit the button. next subject you recognize is that your motorized vehicle has basically ran off by using itself and crashed into each element in its course as a results of certainty it became into in kit. Your coverage employer won't even pay for the wear and tear and tear as a results of certainty the education on the distant initiate says to no longer set up on education manual transmission autos. So valuable you could yet no you shouldn't

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