• 0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire System 1
  • 0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire System 2
  • 0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire System 3
0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire

0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000 m.t./month

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1. Application of galvanized wire:

This kind of galvanized wire is extensively used in construction, handicrafts, woven wire mesh, express way fencing mesh, packaging of products and other daily uses.

 

The Zinc coated galvanized wires are highly resistant to Moisture and mechanical damage (than other surface coatings), and have a very bright and smooth surface finish.

 

0.7mm 0.8mm 1.2mm 16.mm 25kg/coil Electro Galvanized wire

 

 

 

 

2. Specification of galvanized wire:

 

Wire Diameter

0.2mm-4mm

Zinc coating

15g/m2-280g/m2

Tensile Strength

35-50kgs/m2

Packing

1kgs/coil-800kgs/coil

 

3. FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clientsmay help you sincerely 

 

How about your Electro Galvanized Wire

One of the most biggest manufacturer & supplier of wires and wire meshis a large-scale professional UAE Market Electric Galvanised Wire BWG 20 0.7mm Hot Dipped Galvnised Wire  factory in China. Annually more than 10000 tons wires and wire mesh are exported to markets all over the world. Different kinds of wires and mesh are available according to customer’s requirements. 

 

What is your Technical Information of Electro Galvanized Wire?

1) Material: super carbon steel

2) Processing by drawing, hot-dip zinc-plating

3) Standard wire gauge from 8# to 24#

4) Thick zinc-coating layer

5) Super in corrosion resistance

6) Firm coating layer

7) Custom size available

 10 to 15g Zinc Coating and 35kg Tensile Strength Iron Wire Electro Galvanized Iron Wire

 

How long can we receive the product after payment?

In the purchase of Electro Galvanized wire within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The pacific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 15 to 20 working days can be served.

 

Q: Please help, I'm stuck on this problem:An aluminum wire and a steel wire, each of length 4m, are hung from the ceiling. A 7 kg mass is suspended from the lower end of each wire. The aluminum wire has a diameter of 1.1 mm. What must be the diameter of the steel wire if it is to stretch the same distance as the aluminum wire, so that the two wires maintain equal lengths after masses are attached? Young's modulus for aluminum is .70 x 10^11 Pa and for steel it is 2.0 x 10^11 Pa.
With the usual symbols E= FL/eA, so F = EeA/L Call the aluminium wire '1' and the steel wire '2'. The tensions are the same (weight of 7kg) so: E?e?A?/L? = E?e?A?/L? Since the extensions and lengths are the same e?=e? and L? = L? so these cancel: E?A? = E?A? A?/A? = E?/E? Let the diameter of the aluminum wire be d? mm. Since the cross-sectional areas are proportional to the diametera squared: d??/d?? = E?/E? d? = 1.1 x √(0.70/2.0) = 0.65mm
Q: I'm replacing the door speakers in a 2001 Coupe Camaro with the factory sound system. I needed to know which wire was positive and which was negative so I bought a circuit tester. However, I keep getting the reading that both wires are positive. What could be causing this? I know the circuit tester works because I tested it on the battery terminals and it worked fine.
Speaker wire carries AC current. A circuit tester designed for DC voltage won't work, at least for telling you which is positive or negative. (It doesn't matter whether you use chassis ground, or the other speaker wire, as a reference). In the driver's door, the positive wire should be tan and the negative wire gray. In the passenger door, the positive wire is light green and the negative wire is dark green.
Q: So ground wire, start anywhere i suppose?Where does ground wire hook up too?why you need to ground out your system?Only need 1 ground wire?
yes only one from the amp to the battery with an inline fuse
Q: I have 16 gauge speaker wire, but i need a lower gauge. instead of spending money and buying a lower gauge can i double this wire up and have that make it a lower gauge? so i would have 2 negative and 2 positive wires going into the terminal.
No. 8 ga wire is much thicker than 16, even if you double it. Buy the right wire and eliminate the risk of an electrical fire. The wire is much cheaper than replacing your car.
Q: I am trying to replace my cigarette lighter on my car. The replacement requires the wiring to to be redone. It has a terminal wire attached to it, but when I attach it to the wire on the car it doesn't work. After reading the reviews on the product everyone has said the wiring needs to be redone. What wires do I connect to what (Positive, negative, terminal). I am using product REPU506801.
You need to get a test light and find a wire under the dash or coming from the ignition that has power when the key is turned on. If you want the plug to have power when the key is off then you will need to find a wire that has power when the key is off. Once you find the wire make sure its thicker wire and splice into it.
Q: You have a 3 foot wide wire, vs a .3 inch wire. They are equal length. There is 3 volts going through each wire, to power your 1 volt LED. So, would the 3 foot wide wire have less resistance ? I don't even think it would work.
Because there are a lot more electrons available in that ridiculously large wire.
Q: I'm trying to fix a light fixture for a friend. Her father-in-law gummed it up. At the fixture, there are 3 white wires soldered to a single wire. There are 3 black individual wires and one red wire. There are three switches that control the light.If I hook one of the black and the 3 white to the light, the light stays on constantly. If I hook either of the two other black individually, nothing comes on period.I'm pretty much at a loss. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
the white wire is neutral and hooks to the white on the light the black wire you had hooked when the light stayed on is the feed wireit hooks to either the other the other red or one of the black wires depending on how the switchjes are wired. i would try hooking the feed black to the red and the other 2 black to the black light
Q: A wire is 1.5 m long and has a diameter of 1.5 mm. The stretch modulus of the wire is 6.2 x 10^10 N/m^2. If a force of 400 N is applied to end of the wire then the increase in length of the wire is???please help, thanks
The stretching of wire by longitudinal force: If F force applied across the crosectional area A of wire of radius r and lenght L then the wire elaogates in the dirextion of force Stress P = F / A A = pi* r^2 = (1.5/2)*10^-3 = 7.5 *10^-4 m^2 strain produced = dL / L = increase in length / original L Young's modulus or elastic (stretch) modulus for the maretial, within elastic limits, Y = stress/strain strain = stress / Y dL = F * L / A * Y = F * L / pi (r^2) * Y dL = 400* 1.5 / 3.14 (7.5 *10^-4)^2 * 6.2*10^10) meter dL = 0.005479 * meter dL = 5.479 millimeters increase in length
Q: I no longer have enough 0 gauge wire would it be bad to use 0 gauge power wire to the amp and 4 gauge wire to ground the amp?
Umm well it really depends on how much power you are running through it. If your amp is only about 200-400 watt rms, then you should be fine with a 4awg ground. However, if your rms is higher than 400 you seriously need to consider getting some bigger gauge wire.
Q: I am re wiring a hanging lamp. I know the black wire is the hot. My problem is this, the replacement wire is gold. There is no apparent groove in the wire, but one side does have writing on it. If I remember correctly the side with the writing is the hot?
That will work. Both wires are the same, but one needs to be assigned as black AT BOTH ENDS. You could use the wire with the writing in it, or mark one wire with black magic marker, and carefully trace that same wire to the other end and mark it with black magic marker too. (But if there is no groove in the wire insulation, you probably won't be able to trace one wire from one end to the other. In that case, you'd need to use an electrician's continuity meter to find the same wire at the other end). The other two answerer's are correct that the bulb will light, BUT it will be unsafe if wired backwards. NAILBENDER's answer fails to recognize the safety hazard of wiring the hot to the wrong side of a light. You don't want the hot side to electrify the threaded sides of an electrical light bulb fixture! The hot needs to be on the bottom center of the bulb fixture. ROODOG1's answer also fails to recognize that someone could get shocked when screwing in (or out) a light bulb and touching the threaded side of the bulb which may be hot if wired wrong. DILLIGAF makes the same error, even though he says he's an electrician! Read a do-it-yourself electricians website; don't rely on these people's answers! Exception: If your lamp is plug-in that does not have one prong wider than the other, then it doesn't make a difference which wire is hot because the plug goes into the receptacle either way.

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