• Awg12, House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire System 1
  • Awg12, House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire System 2
Awg12, House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire

Awg12, House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire

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Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
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Supply Capability:
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Quick Details

  • Place of Origin: Henan, China (Mainland)


  • Insulation Material:
    PVCModel Number:
    BVR

  • Type: Low Voltage

  • Application: lighting in residential

  • Conductor Material: Copper

  • Jacket: PVC

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Rool or as your request
Delivery Detail:7-30 days or as customers' demand

Specifications

12awg House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire
1.high efficiency
2.ability to withstand high temperature
3.good insulation
4.cheap

12awg House Wire,Outdoor Wire,Build Wire

1.Range of Application
PVC insulated wire is fit for AC rated voltage 450/750V and below of domestic electrical appliances of smaller size motorized tools of instruments of various meters and motorized lighting installations.
2. Service Conditions
Working temperature:Not more than 105oC for RV-105 model.The other no more than 70oC.

3.Technique specific

cu/pvc/pvc 450/750V

Nominal Section sqmm

Structure of Cores

core number/dia. mm

Maximum Outer Diamater mm

Reference Weight kg/km

1*0.75

1*1/0.97

4.3

23

1*1.0

1*1/1.13

4.5

26.4

1*1.5(A)

1*1/1.38

4.9

34.6

1*1.5(B)

1*1/0.52

5.2

36.5

1*2.5(A)

1*1/0.85

5.8

46.4

1*4(A)

1*1/2.25

6.4

65.9

1*4(B)

1*1/0.85

6.8

73.7

1*6(A)

1*1/2.76

7.0

91.6

1*10

1*1/1.35

8.8

152

2*1.5(A)

2*1/1.38

9.8

109

2*1.5(B)

2*1/1.38

10.5

123

2*2.5(A)

2*1/1.38

11.5

157

2*2.5(B)

2*1/1.38

12.0

172

2*4(A)

2*1/1.38

12.5

205

2*4(B)

2*1/1.38

13.0

222

2*6(A)

2*1/1.38

13.5

265

2*6(B)

2*1/1.38

14.5

286

2*10

2*1/1.38

18.0

471

3*1.5(A)

3*1/1.38

10.5

136

3*1.5(B)

3*7/0.52

11.0

146

3*2.5(A)

3*1/1.78

12.0

190

3*2.5(B)

3*7/0.68

12.5

207

3*4(A)

3*1/2.25

13.0

252

3*4(B)

3*7/0.85

14.0

272

3*6(A)

3*1/2.76

14.5

344

3*10

3*7/1.35

19.0

574

4*1.5(A)

4*1/1.38

11.5

164

4*1.5(B)

4*7/0.52

12.0

174

4*2.5(B)

4*7/0.68

13.5

252

4*4(A)

4*1/2.25

14.5

321

4*4(B)

4*7/0.85

15.5

346

4*6(A)

4*1/1.04

17.5

470

4*6(B)

4*7/2.76

16.0

439



Q: As the new electric heater wire is too short, can not receive the original 16A socket, so want to wire long, I ask you: 1. How to make a long time can be relatively safe? (Seeking connection method) 2. In the original socket plus What kind of dragline board? (Please recommend the brand and model) 3. Which method is better? Thank you! More
The easiest and safe way is to buy a standard patch panel, to the big supermarket and other regular stores to buy authentic bull card, the bullet can be the first card. Note that your wall is 16 An outlet, the water heater on the plug to see what is the big, if it is 16 security, then buy a direct 16-inch wiring board can be, if the water heater is 10-amp (2.5 square Of the line, usually 10 An), it would replace the wall outlet or water heater plug, otherwise the size is not the same, can not be inserted.
Q: I noticed when somebody uses the microwave my tv starts to make REALLY loud zap noises and a staticy bar rolls down the screen. The tv does it on its own sometimes and I thought I saw the hallway lights flicker a bit when it happened.If I flip on the bedroom light the tv does the same thing again or if I unplug something from an outlet on the other side of the room. I don't know why EXACTLY, I only know its wiring if you can explain further please do. Also, if an electrical fire happens what should I do? Obviously no water because duh but do I cover it in baking soda? I saw that a lot on different websites. I do not own the correct fire extinguisher so what else would I use? Thanks for any answers!
Possibly get rid of microwave, because of suppressor failure. It has been suggested for a good 30-40 odd years that sockets in the kitchen are on an independent breaker from the other socket outlets on the premesis. It probably only in the last decade/ 15 years that the socket outlets have actually been wired like this.
Q: I have an unused electrical plug outlet that I want to tie into and run 110v to the barn. The plug outlet is 72 feet from the circuit breaker then from the plug outlet to the barn is another 70 feet or so. Is that too long a run or is it within specs?Thanks
Danny is right, if all your doing is putting up some lights you could use an extension cord if you wanted. The point here is low voltage will only mean your bulbs will be dim, however, some fluorescents may not light if the voltage is too low. If you are ever going to power a saw or any other tool from the barn, a 30 amp sub-panel would be ideal. Low voltage will damage electric motors.
Q: I am prepping it for a derby and accidentally cut the fuel pumps electrical wire harness thinking it was stereo or tail lights. I just want to hook it up to start it and move it to the shop where i can really tear into it. There are 4 wires. Black, purple, grey, and black w/ yellow stripe. I want to bypass the electrical connectors and just splice it into the wires that run along the drivers side floor. What color wire is what and what color do i splice it to?
you will would desire to make certain in case you have potential and floor to the gas pump. regrettably you will would desire to drag the tank off to make certain the relationship. The helpful cord from the relay is a grey cord. the floor cord is a robust black cord. you are able to connect a attempt mild between the two terminals and turn on the significant. the sunshine could come on for extra or less 2 seconds and then pass off. Or in case you're cranking the engine, the attempt mild could be on once you're cranking. No mild,then you definately've a potential or floor concern. mild on, then you definately probable have a dud gas pump.
Q: I now live in the old house, the circuit is often bad, the lights for a change and one, it is said that the aging of the circuit is not safe, but I immediately want to move a new house, do not intend to re-decoration here. But how long will the new house circuit aging? Aged to dig all the holes in the wall? That is it not white decoration? Question added: how many years is expected to need the whole line? Often heard that the circuit aging fire, I would like to prevent in the past ah! More
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-MA770T-US3570 Gigabyte good quality, and this model for the classic series of durable memory: DATA / Kingston 2GDDRCPU: AMDXAMD quad-core processor hard drive: WD320G260 chassis: a good point of the ordinary chassis 70 Power: Great Wall 350SD mute Master 165 power to a little better, or do not bring up the price comparison, the motherboard to better reflect the overall performance, ASUS low-end board not. Graphics card into the Rainbow M graphics card 280. This section is also relatively high cost graphics card. CD-ROM: BenQ, Samsung, Pioneer, ASUS, SONYDVD110 yuan Total: 2405 yuan plus some money, certainly someone to you with. CD-ROM on the line. This configuration is quite reasonable.If you do not care about the price, the graphics card into the Rainbow GT gold plate on the line, the price of 500 or so.
Q: I need to connect 2 wires.First wire has 4 colours. Red, Blue, White, Green.the Second wire has two colours, Black Brown.How do I join the two wires together?
Just what are you trying to supply power to? Red and Blue are typically hot wires, White for neutral and Green is for ground in home circuitry. Black is for hot and brown is neutral going to ground on motorcycles and vehicles. Don't remember ever seeing brown wires for home circuits. If messing with a ceiling fan then attach the Red, Blue and Black together, then the White with the Brown. The Green should attach to a screw bolt on the fan hanger. Then turn on the switch to see if it works or goes snap, crackle and pop. You need to explain just what you're messing with for a more concise answer.
Q: How are they wired up, and how do they work, thanks.
If you are talking about a feed meaning a home run from the panel then the feed usually goes to the light and drops to the switch and can pick up a couple of recepticles in the wall also. The national electrical code allows for a white to switch hot if it is marked on both ends so you can use a two wire run. If you run from the panel to the switch box then you will have a hot switched for the light, one for the hot recepticles and a neutral for all. Keep in mind the green is allways used and only used for a bond and nothing else.That gives you a 3 wire and a bond going from the small switch box to the larger light box in the cieling, Which will work but is harder to follow years later if you have problems. If you run from the panel to the cieling box it is easy to locate and trouble shoot all wires as everything goes to that box. Most switches are single pole and require 2 wires and it is pretty much a in and out deal so that is simple enough but if it is a 3 way ( or switched at 2 places ) you have to use 3 way switches, If you want to switch from 3 places or more then you have to use 2 - 3 way and the rest 4 way. I realize I am not telling you all you have to know but electricity is not for people who dont know what they are doing. You can get shocked and others can get hurt or the house could burn down with you sleeping in it so I suggest you get out the Home Depot do it yourself books or go to the library and learn what and the whys of electricity. I hope what I have told you gets you to see that it takes some home work to make it safe and understandable.
Q: Hi,If you were to wire up this motor, how do you go about doing that? To connect it to the mains for example.
There are 5 or 6 11966 motors ranging from 1.5VDC, 1 Watt to 12VDC 20 Watts. These motors are normally powered by flashlight (torch) cells and not 220VAC. Adapters and approved, rectifying power supplies are probably available from the same source. You can wire these motors any way you wish if you confine yourself to flashlight cells, and approved power supplies.
Q: Why the wire cut there are many ash, and the copper wire is very easy to break
Oxidation, and the main reason for this situation is the long-term overload of the wire lead to accelerated oxidation and wire storage for a long time
Q: Hi, I am building a greenhouse in my backyard and had a few questions as to how i should wire it. The appliances I will have in the greenhouse include.A 400 watt light.a 115 volt pump, an oscillating fanand a ventilation fanI can't remember the wattage of the two fans. But my question is will I need to run more than one wire out to my greenhouse? The wire I have says its max voltage is 600. any tips and advice would be nice.
One circuit should suffice for your load requirements. However, it would be advisable to run a 3 conductor cable, and this way you will have two circuits for any future power needs, even if you only utilize one circuit right now. If your green house is less than 100 feet from your electrical panel (not just the closest side of your house), then 12 gauge conductors on a 20 amp breaker will suffice. However, if the distance is larger than 100 feet, I would strongly recommend 10 gauge conductors to compensate for any potential voltage drop. Also, please keep in mind to have all of your devices rated the same as whatever your breaker is. E.g., install 20 amp receptacles and light switches. Make sure you ground everything properly, and your receptacles should all be GFI devices given the amount of water present in a greenhouse. I would also recommend that if you have more than just one GFI plug, for example a light switch, to have that powered from the load side of the GFI plug. This will ensure everything is GFI protected. Also, this work should be done with an electrical permit, and inspected. My advice may not adhere to local codes, I live in Ontario. Also, I cannot see your site conditions and am going on a generic approach. The most important thing is to be safe, and never work with live electricity. Good luck.

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