Thin tile Pure color series, Mono white System 1

Thin tile Pure color series, Mono white

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Loading Port:: China Main Port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 50000SQM per month m²/month

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Specification:

Serie: Pure

Item No.: MONO-WHITE

Size: 600× 1200mm

Thickness: 4.8mm

Surface: Polished/ Matt

Water absorption rate: ≤ 0.07 %

Breaking strength: 910 N

Modulus of rupture: 75 MPa

Abrasive resistance: Grade 6

Thin tile Pure color series, Mono white

Effect picture:

Thin tile Pure color series, Mono white

Packing details:

Size(mm)	PCS/CTN	M²/CTN	KGS/CTN	SQM/20'GP
600×600-Soluble salt	4	1.44	28	1382.4
600×600-Double loading	4	1.44	30	1296
800×800	3	1.92	50	1036.8
1200×600	2	1.44	45	864
1200×600-Thin tile	3	2.16	22.5	2592

BREIF INTRODUCTION:

1. High Quality:

Grade AAA+, first choice always.The product quality strictly follow the ISO quality
standard. They all pass and even exceed the national and international standard.

2. Competitive Price:

We have our own factory located in Nanzhuang, Foshan. With 5 production lines, daily
output reaches around 10,000 sqm. Therefore we can offer our clients the very best prices.
Regarding required quantity, discounts are offered.

3. 10 Years Professional Experience:

We have been specialize in manufacturing and exporting tiles for 15 years. Our products can meet different import requirements of different countries. SGS, BV, SONCAP, SASO, CIQ, CE, SNI, INEN, etc can be handled well.

4. Modern Fashionable designs:

New and fashionable designs are promoted and updated periodically, which will be
fresh and fashionable revolutions.

FAQ and Investment:

Q: When can you deliver the goods?
A: If stock is available, we can deliver goods within 10 days. If no stock, that would be 20-25 days after receiving deposit.

Q: How about your payment terms?
A: Our payment terms is by T/T, 30% as deposit, balance by T/T or L/C before shipment.

Q: What is your main market?
A: Our main market is Middle East, Southeast Asia, South America, Africa, European Countries.

Q: We are importing to Egypt, can you provide CIQ certificate?
A: Our company have been in tiles export for many years. We are experienced in dealing with CIQ, SASO, BV, SGS, SNI, SONCAP certificate and etc.

Q: My kitchen floor tile has a number dings or chips caused by something heavy falling on them. Is there a way to repair these without having to remove/replace the entire tile?: Depends on how bad they are. Sounds like you have an very inexpensive tile on the floor or it would not have all the chips/dings. A cheap temporary fix would be to find a paint to match and just touch up. If you're renting, just try that. If you own, you could do that temporarily while you save up. When you replace though, make sure you get a good quality porcelain tile.

Q: I need matching vinyl tiles for my kitchen floor. they‘re about 18x18 inch. I only need about 6 of them. is it possible to have a company match the design of tile and custom make me new ones, or a company that can match them?: It's always cheaper to re-tile then try and match what you already have.

Q: What purpose does it serve? Is it safe to assume the tile will settle half of the trowel thickness? For example, if using a 1/4 inch trowel, will the tile settle 1/8 inch when set in place? Thanks for any help/advice!: Thinset cements the tile to the subfloor. The settling depends on the tile, and whether or not you press it down.

Q: My family and i are thinking about replacing our floor tile this year and putting in something nice. How difficult is it to take out the old tile. What would I do with the tile once it is pulled up? Order a construction dumpster? And do we have to pull up the base board?I have seen it done on DIY network, doesn‘t look that difficult and seems like we could save money. And any suggestions on good looking tile that we could get cheap, maybe an outlet store.What‘s the difficulty level: beginner, intermediate or expert.: If you do not plan on replacing the old baseboard with new, then you should gently remove it using a small pry bar and mallet. If you can't find the pry bar, a flat head screwdriver works alright.. Once you have pulled it away from the wall you might need to remove the nails to get it off without damage. If your tile has been on there since the beginning of time, you might have a little trouble removing it as back then the mastic used was quite different then what is used now. It really stuck! I am guessing you are talking about ceramic and not linoleum or vinyl tile. You can get a long handled scraper at just about any hardware store and they don't cost that much. That will save you allot of time. If you do not plan on saving the tiles, a 8 lb . sledge hammer will do the job of loosening the tiles from the floor but please make sure you wear eye protection. Then just scrape them up as you go along. If your tiles are the vinyl ,peel stick, or linoleum a good hot hair dryer works to soften the adhesive allowing you to scrape up the tiles. I'm sure a professional would recommend a heat gun though. I have removed and replaced both types and just to let you know it is not a easy or fun job. Wear rubber gloves if you can and keep a bottle of baby oil close by just in case you get the mastic on your hands.

Q: Tile loss rate: The loss depends on your room size and size of the tile size ratio ~ a home a sample how much you can calculate it ~ for example, your parents are 1 meter wide and 0.5 meters your tile is 300 # 400 by piece The brick can only cut 2 knife count your loss is greater than 50% of the ~ If you are talking about man-made loss that I can resolutely tell you is 0 occasionally broken one or two is normal and reasonable.

Q: We will be tiling a backsplash directly onto drywall after our countertops are installed. My question is -- what do I do about the electrical outlets in that area? The tile is about 1/4 inch thick -- and I want the outlets even with the tile (right?) After I tile around the outlet openings, then how do you make them flush when you put everything back together? For example, do I just pull the sockets out so that the screw brackets sit on top of the tile? If so, then do I need to drill screw holes through the tile? If so, then how do I make sure that the tile does not break or crack?: There is a couple of ways to do this. First and easiest way it to tile the whole splash back and then fix the socket fronts direct over the tiles. The one problem with this is that there may be clearance behind the socket and the tiles (Tile joints etc). If you do go down this route the tiles over the socket points need to be cut to allow the cables to pass through and you will need to drill holes through the tiles to screw the socket covers on. Drilling tiles is very easy, use a high speed metal drill bit and using the highest speed on the drill drill slowly through the tiles. You can use masking tape over where the holes are to be drilled to stop the drill bit from wandering. The second way to do this is to fix the sockets directly into there wall backing plates and tile around them. If there is a height difference between the surface of the tile and the front of the socket you can play around with the socket backing plate using spacers behind the backing plate to bring it forward until flush. The big advantage of doing it this way is that the sockets and the tiles are flush and there is no issues with the seal behind the socket front. In my opinion it also looks a lot better.

Q: I was quoted $5.75 for tile install and $2.25 for concrete board per square foot.: If that is what you were quoted by someone who is going to do the job - then that is the going rate for them. Which is likely in line with what other installers of tile charge in your area. Get other estimates or quotes from the people who will actually do the job. There is no standard/going rate that is applicable in every city, in every state across the country.

Q: How is the acceptance of tiles after construction?: Acceptance of several main parts: first within two meters of the error shall not be greater than 2mm, the joints should be neat, uniform size, no hollowing, not loose, with two meters long ruler or by the foot of acceptance. Second, you can use a small hammer in the ground or the walls of all the light tapping, no empty drums. Finally, pay attention to the drainage requirements of the floor tile slope should meet the drainage requirements, and ground leakage should be tightly integrated.

Q: Behind my sink in the kitchen, I have a back splash that is white tile with an ugly floral pattern on about every other tile. Instead of replacing all the tile, I was thinking maybe I could somehow take off the floral stuff.I don‘t think it is like a sticker, I tried scrubbing it off with a magic eraser with no luck. Any ideas?: pant it go get a small can of glass paint,tape, and pant

Q: We are wanting to get rid of old wood floors. We are debating tile vs. concrete finished floors. Pro/cons? What about cost difference.: Tile can cost from about $1 and sqaure foot plus, thinset and grout plus the cost to install it. If you do it yourself it's free of course if you hire someone then it can cost from about $2 a square foot on up. so, it depends on how manyh sqare feet you have. Concrete flooring looks okay. It has an industrial look. It cracks very often and costs around $3 a square foot according to a friend of mines estimate. I say go with tile. It's a lot easier to clean and more durable and lasts a lot longer.

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