• Polished Porcelain Tile The Pilate Blue Color CMAXSBJ1232 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile The Pilate Blue Color CMAXSBJ1232 System 2
Polished Porcelain Tile The Pilate Blue Color CMAXSBJ1232

Polished Porcelain Tile The Pilate Blue Color CMAXSBJ1232

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1325 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Primary Competitive Advantages of Polished Porcelain Tile The Pilate Blue Color CMAXSBJ1232:

 

 

Experienced Staff

Form A

Green Product

Guarantee/Warranty

Military Specifications

Packaging

Price

 

 

Product Features:

 

Adopt international advanced ceramic cloth exquisite processing technology, selected high

 

quality pure raw materials, on the product body, with moist and gorgeous color, microcomputer

 

total precision control, multiple temperature control forming technology create gorgeous texture

 

hd grain boundary, bottom dense embryo thicker, pure texture, deduces the natural stone material through the external environment and the

 

geological characteristics and the dynamic form of change,

 

also make products with high hardness, high gloss, low water absorption, strong dirt resistance, easy

 

to clean, etc excellent characteristic.

 

Main Export Markets:

 

 

Eastern Europe

North America

Mid East/Africa

Central/South America

Asia

Western Europe

Austra

 

Product Picture :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CT26608

 

Production Line :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CT26608

 

Oversea Branch :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CT26608

 

 

Product Certificate :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CT26608

 

Packing Details  :

 

Polished Porcelain Tile CT26608

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

Q:im going to tile the floor next weekend with 16x16 ceramic tile, and i could use some advice2 questions actually...1. when i lay my backerboard, and tape the staggered seams, do i keep that thinset over the tape very thin? im afraid of a hump in the floor when i go to lay tile.2. how much pressure do i apply when seting the tiles in the thinset? ive seen websites that show very little pressure..and some that show alot of pressure. does it need to float on the thinset or mash it down in the thinset. i just want this to turn out good...its my 1st time, and ive done alot of research, but the information varies from person to person. any added advice or tips on this project would be greatly appreciated.
There is a really neat product called anti-fracture membrane available at most tile stores or in the tile section at home depot. The product is applied with a roller over your substrate whether concrete or backer board. A couple coats will prevent cracks from telegraphing up through your floor and prevent moisture from migrating up or down. Thinset is applied directly over the membrane. At work we trowell the thinset as flat as possible, no more than 1/2 thick and no more than 1/4 high. We also apply thinset to the back of the tile to insure a good bond. You shouldn't have to press the tile down very hard. Apply firm and even pressure to the tile pressing it down to your line. You can tap lightly on the tile to check for voids, you can hear if it is hollow. If you have to press really hard or if lots of thinset squeezes up between the tiles use less thinset. It can be frustrating at first but after a few tiles you should get the hang of it. A bucket of clean water and a sponge are helpful as even the best of us get a little thinset on the tile. good luck
Q:I have strip kitchen floor to sub floor. i am ready to install tiles. My question is: How to do the wet bed for laying ties later on.
I m assuming yo mean a mortar bed or a mud bed for tiles. You don t want to do this for later on as you say. You want to lay tiles soon after it s set so you don t ruin the mortar bed by walking on it. This isnt something you usually just do , it takes practice and a bit of experience and is hard work but worth it when done right. A wet bed is a base of cement that the tiles are installed as you go. Old fashion method rarely used anymore. Now a mud bed is used and then a thin set is used to adhere the tile down. If you want to do a mud bed e mail me through my avatar and I ll guide you through it. GL
Q:Ok we are remodeling our kitchen and have the area between the counter tops and the bottom of the upper cabinets that is currently some ugly green tiles. Very small ones at that. We do not want the hassle to remove these and try to replace with something more attractive. We are looking for solutions to just cover the tiles with something d-i-y and not too expensive. I have seen a lot of peel and stick stuff but don't know if it can be used on tiles. Please give suggestions!
In the end, you will not be happy with anything less than removing the tiles, repairing the wall, and installing a tile back splash you like. Anything else would not be appealing, nor would it last. This could easily be a weekend project and is well worth the effort, if not just for the resale value.
Q:What is the tile diagonal
Wall and floor tiles between the two corners of the straight line, but also to evaluate the quality of one of the standards of wall and floor tiles.
Q:We had glass tile installed in our kitchen and it looks wavy. Our installer said it was an optical illusion which I disagree with. I noticed it as it was being installed and that he did not use spacers. Wouldn‘t that have allowed the tiles to move before they were grouted?
ok,first element you want to do is end moist washing the floor ! Unfortunatly each and every so often the more advantageous you moist wash it the more advantageous powdery residue you'll receive. you should have washed it initially with a Grout Haze remover . Now, in all truthfully the most acceptable you may do is DRY wash it with a terry fabric towel or similar,and vacuum up the dusty residue. you should do this some times and dont be afraid to furnish it a touch elbow grease both. non-stop moist washing will basically agrivate the area. Oh and PLEASE....i urge of you..dont ever use PLEDGE on your ceramic tile. no longer except you want to break your neck walking on it afterwards. Ceramic tile could in no way be sealed or waxed. you could seal your grout,and seal your marble and or different stone tiles. yet no longer ceramic. wish you discover this files functional and robust success Bellzie :)
Q:Ok my room has asbestos on the vynil tile floor and it‘s in good condition. I‘m trying to put a carpet on top of the floor is it possible without removing the tile? Home Depot wants me to remove it before they install the carpet.
I wouldn't remove it. The asbestos in vinyl tile won't hurt you until you start scraping and breaking it up. Just have them install it over the tiles. There should be no problem with that. If the idiots at HD give you a hard time, go somewhere else (which is your best bet from the HD horror stories I've read about online). Note: Asbestos products were used into the mid 70s, so if your house is older than 1960 doesn't mean you don't have asbestos tiles.
Q:For example, in the store will see the cloud of stone bricks, microcrystalline stone bricks and other labels, how is this classification of it? What are the different types of their performance? Humbly ask for advice, thank you!
According to the material sub-ceramic brick, stoneware brick, porcelain tile. Surface treatment sub-glazed tiles, polished tiles, throw glazed tiles, semi-glazed tiles, antique tiles, seepage tiles.
Q:i need help putting up counter tops and backsplashes.(tile)
I tile every day of my life, and might understand your confusion, but wonder of the type of HELP you need? On a countertop, my standard is 1/8th inch grout lines. Your issue depends in some part, on the size of the counter top and tiles you choose. Obviously on a floor, using 12 x 12 tiles, IF you went with a 1/8 grout line, you add an inch in floor measurement...loss/gain, for every 8 tiles set. Most effective for a backsplash and counter face is to include Bullnose and the reverse of that (the name escapes me) for where the counter meets the splash. The substrate should be molded to conform, but with adequate prep, you could fill. Certainly an ideal is for a counter top substrate to be exacly large enough to accomodate tile sizes, and grout lines, with no cutting. That's a rare occurance, unless it was preplanned. AND again depends on tile size. 2, 6, 9, 12, etc. and shapes in tile, IE: Octagonal Im my kitchen, my counter tops are 24 inches deep, to the wall. Using a 1/8 grout line, I'll have cuts to make, no matter the size of the tile, unless I find some that aren't exactly as stated. (Undersize) Glad to add if you wish, but wonder what type of Help exactly, you need. Steven Wolf
Q:Is there a site you know that would be helpful for this. I am going to be doingthe kitchen walls, no back splash from counter. Tile will start at counter go up to bottom of cabinets.I was thinking of using a regular tile then half way up putting a 6 inch strip of glass tile, they are smaller really add SPUNK! lol I need some pointers on doing it though. Or any tips you might have.THANKS!
This site should help-
Q:We have a big problem with our tiles in our bathroom, they wont stick.We have painted the floor with the pva. used (waterproof athesive) don‘t know if thats the correct name for it. my boyfriend has let his dad do the tiling as he knows how to do it. i told him to get a profesionals. but he wants he‘s dad. so now we have been having this problem. if any one knows what should we do or use different glue or something, that would really help., thanx
Tile, like Ceramic / Porcelain tile? Or do you mean vinyl tile? If vinyl tile, the PVA should work, unless the floor beneath (concrete slab) wasn't prepped properly. If its ceramic, Porcelain or any kind of hard, individual tile, you should not be using floor adhesive, you should be using thin set (mortar) as an adhesive. The only way that wouldn't work is if your floors are so uneven that you can' get a good 'grab'. In that case, the floors need to be floated. Either way, sounds like daddio isn't as great as made out to be, get a professional in there, STAT!

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